As finished as it'll ever be

[TK5310]

I think I've finally finished my Picco .28 revo build!
After a lot of time spent busting stuff, coming up with solutions, trying different parts to find stuff that'll cope, messing with gearing etc etc I reckon I may have it all sorted & with any luck reliable with regular maintenence.
I finished off my new body, got the trans back together with the replacement gears from RRP, got my new road rage tyres mounted up on the new beadlocks. Truck got a good looking over, replaced some hurt drive pins in an axle & a driveshaft.

The only things I may add in the future are a better radio with telemetry & maybe some alloy shock end caps & mounts.

 

[EXTREME1]

that looks sweet.you ran it yet?what type roll bar is that?

 

[TK5310]

I've been beating the hell out of it for a while, just kept on smashing various driveline parts pretty quickly - reckon the driveline is sorted finally.
If I wasn't smashing driveline bits I was blowing tyres off rims or tearing out the side walls - beadlocks & 40 series tyres should fix that.

I haven't run it with these wheels/tyres or with this body - I probably won't run this body for bashing, I'll use my other beat up chev body & keep this one for 'shelf queen' use - covers up the well used mechanicals nicely!

Roll bar is one I made from thinwall cro-mo tube & TIG welded together, it's lighter than it looks & real strong.

 

[MudSlinger33]

Very nice truck, but it sounds like to much work for me.

 

[Skwerly]

haha, i LOVE that body!

 

[jerzey10]

What rims are you using?

 

[hulkmaxx]

Nice. I am thinking of building a big block Revo with a Mach big red .28, it looks like the pipe being exposed like that it would take damage pretty easy.





High Speed Low Drag:whhooo:

 

[TK5310]

What rims are you using?

Integy - not much choice in 40 series bead lock wheels to suit 23mm hubs!

it looks like the pipe being exposed like that it would take damage pretty easy.

Nah, it's well protected by the wheels, I've run it like that since the truck had a 3.3 in it (with a THS pipe & buggy header). It cops a bit of gravel blasting & when I had big joes on it they rubbed the chrome through in a spot, but it doesn't cop many hits.

 

[ausher]

Turned out sweet. Mind posting a list of parts used?

 

[TK5310]

Err, ok, big list tho!

Picco .28 P3 turbo head motor
Big block buggy header (can't remember brand)
EFRA 2047 pipe
QConcepts engine mount
Motosaver filter
Losi 8eight clutch
Savage 19t hardened clutch bell
RRP 38t captive slipper conversion
RRP full metal trans gear set
Custom made 8740 steel trans main shaft
TRX steel driveshafts - rear shaft lengthened
Erevo diffs with hot racing alloy cups & diff lock putty
Ebay 'Best RC' steel axles

RPM tru-track rear
RPM front arms & carriers
Custom steel rings pressed onto the pillow ball cups to stop the pillow balls from popping out
23mm bolt on alloy hubs
TRX alloy pushrods
TRX alloy drag links
Alloy single servo steerng arm (can't remember brand)
Alloy steering servo horn
TRX P2 rockers
TRX GTR shocks 60wt oil
Blue front springs, purple rear
TRX sway bar kit
RPM bumpers
TRX wing mount, HoBao wing
TRX wheelie bar with custom neoprene wheels & bigger wheel screws
Tekno fuel tanks & RX box conversion
Hyper 1/7 (I think) 250cc tank, modded o-ring to get it to seal properly
Custom cro-mo roll cage
PowerHD high torque digital steering servo with titanium gears
NFI high torque throttle/brake servo
Custom made throttle linkage

A lot of the drive pins in the driveshafts & axles are made from 8740 steel (to stop them shearing)

Integy 40 series bead lock rims with 23mm hubs
Proline 40 series road rage tyres

Proline '56 F100 body - for revo 2.5, made it fit

I think that's it, may be other stuff I forgot tho.

Will be getting a second hand Spectrum DX3s radio soonish.

 

[laton7]

I'v gotta say that body with this rims looks sweeeet! and the exhaust out the side, and engine out the top just finishes it off for me

 

[TK5310]

Cheers - I'm happy with it.

Took it out last night with my beat up body on it. Thing is wicked fast with the 19/38 gearing in it, I switched to a new fuel with 30% nitro & all synthetic oil at the same time.
Runs cooler on the new fuel, idles much better, a lot less oily crap blown everywhere & heaps more power.
Damn thing is near uncontrollable at lower speed, wheelspinning & looping out under throttle, if traction is marginal she'll loop out on the 1-2 gear change & do a few 360's - I softened up the sway bars & that helped a lot, I think some softer springs are in order as well, need to let the tyres bite a bit rather than slide.
Now I've got the driveline pretty solid I've got to spend some time dialing in the suspension for the new tyres & massive power increase.
It'll sit up on the wheelie bar if it gets enough traction & carry the front wheels into 2nd gear & up to around 40mph where they slowly come back down into contact with the ground.
Eyeball speedo says she was topping out somewhere around 50mph, maybe a little more.

 

[Nitroed]

what fuel are you using now

 

[TK5310]

Locally brewed stuff called NEO+.

 

[override]

Very nice! Whats she look like underneath the hood?

If you want some better beadlocks you could go with Rulux half-ups or Proline Commandos/Chayennes. Check ebay for the Proline ones.

 

[TK5310]

Under the lid:

I've been blowing the road rage's off the beadlocks a bunch, so now I've glued the alloy ring to the tyres, with any luck that'll stop them pullng out at high speed.
Also broke the throttle linkage bracket, made a new one from thicker, wider, higher quality alloy.
Driveline is holding up well for a change.

 

[TK5310]

Out beating on this last night, put 5x 250cc tanks through it & didn't break anything!!

Clutch is getting real tired, springs have loosened up from the heat & it was dragging, so I bent the springs back & it came good for a while, but started dragging again by the end of the night.
Time for a new clutch, but I knew that was coming soon anyway.

Finally got enough run time to get a proper tune into the motor, got this thing singing now, it's just plain proper fast.
With the wheelie bar set on the 2nd highest setting if you can keep it straight it'll stay on the back wheels untill you run out of room & have to put it down.

I had some old badlands on it coz I haven't got around to getting another pair of road rage tyres & some harder foams.
The back tyres started out with about 1/3 tread left on them, now they are slicks, fronts didn't wear much at all - not in contact with the ground all that much!

My tyre collection is getting interesting, lots of sets, but almost no complete sets LOL:

Road rages on 40 series bead locks - 1 torn sidewall
Road rages on geodes - 1 torn sidewall
Big Joes on 40 series wheels - a couple blown off the wheels & one with a little tear (repairable)
6x badlands on geodes - 2 bald, 2 with damaged but usable sidewalls
Stock talons x 6, but 2 torn sidewalls & 1 off the rim

I need to get some replacement tyres & spend an evening boiling, repairing & regluing tyres.

 

[TK5310]

Ok, cleaning it up this morning I found a crack in the chassis through the thinner section where the flywheel pokes through.

My fault, I lost a screw for my throttle linkage, didn't have a spare so I pinched the screw out of the roll cage, leaving the cage a little loose at that point.
Then I cartwheeled it hard, it flicked up into the air & landed flat on the roof, must have smacked the cage down onto the chassis & cracked it.
I grabbed out the old TRX chassis brace & cut it to fit around the Qconcepts mount, then drilled it, drilled the chassis & tapped it for 3x 3x.5mm screws, then screwed it to the chassis over the crack smothered in loctite bearing fit. The roll cage screw goes through it as well, should be plenty sturdy enough untill I feel like another full tear down is in order to replace the chassis.

 

[ausher]

I got a buku brass composite clutch coming. I think my losi 8ight clutch is fried. The shoes were pretty wore down.

Did you move your trans forward any? I want to get some steel center shafts, but don't know what would fit after moving the trans forward...

 

[TK5310]

Yeah, my trans is moved forward, I cut & shut the rear shaft to make it longer, but I think you can get splined shafts that'll work with the trans moved forward.

A mate had a buku composite clutch in his LRP .28 revo - it lasted about an hour.