- Thread starter
- #21
That's kit I bought - a lot of parts for the $$
Welcome to RCTalk
Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
That's kit I bought - a lot of parts for the $$
- Thread starter
- #22
Update time!
Well this weekend my wife evicted me from the kitchen table for r/c repair. Actually she wanted all of my r/c stuff removed from the house. The table only had my son's Maxx, new bodies,stickers,tools and new wheels and my desk was covered with Warhead parts and another engine and radio. I didn't see the problem here!
Well, desperate times call for deperate measures so I was forced to clean up the cave again. It was totally trashed from starting a house repair project that wasn't completed before the weather turned cold and nasty. It took most of Saturday afternoon, but I got it back in shape. Now I have a place to string out my parts and leave them when I'm done, that means we now have an update for this Warhead project. Here's a pic of the work area.
The EVO upgrade kit arrived several days ago. Like it's been said, CHEAP for what all is included.
First I pulled the front and rear assmblies from the main chassis. I completely disassembled the rear assembly. I used a wire brush and wheel to clean off the rust on the steel parts. Washed and cleaned all of the plastic and some spray cleaner for the shocks. Everything is in really good shape so back together it goes. The rust will pprobably return and for bashing, trying to clean it off like this isn't really necessary. But I like to give myself the illusion of gettting a NEW rig so I like everything as clean as I can get it. Not exactly new, but a big difference can be seen.
While working I found a couple of things to note that I like about the Warhead. First, Duratrax used cvds at the axles. Second, the lower arms and shock towers have several holes to allow plenty of adjustments to the shock locations for suspension tuning. And 3rd, the aluminum adjustible shock bodies with dirt covers installed.
Well that's all for today. But like noted above, it's all still laid out and ready so anytime I can work on it I can just do it! With that in mind the next update shouldn't be far off.
Well this weekend my wife evicted me from the kitchen table for r/c repair. Actually she wanted all of my r/c stuff removed from the house. The table only had my son's Maxx, new bodies,stickers,tools and new wheels and my desk was covered with Warhead parts and another engine and radio. I didn't see the problem here!
Well, desperate times call for deperate measures so I was forced to clean up the cave again. It was totally trashed from starting a house repair project that wasn't completed before the weather turned cold and nasty. It took most of Saturday afternoon, but I got it back in shape. Now I have a place to string out my parts and leave them when I'm done, that means we now have an update for this Warhead project. Here's a pic of the work area.
The EVO upgrade kit arrived several days ago. Like it's been said, CHEAP for what all is included.
First I pulled the front and rear assmblies from the main chassis. I completely disassembled the rear assembly. I used a wire brush and wheel to clean off the rust on the steel parts. Washed and cleaned all of the plastic and some spray cleaner for the shocks. Everything is in really good shape so back together it goes. The rust will pprobably return and for bashing, trying to clean it off like this isn't really necessary. But I like to give myself the illusion of gettting a NEW rig so I like everything as clean as I can get it. Not exactly new, but a big difference can be seen.
While working I found a couple of things to note that I like about the Warhead. First, Duratrax used cvds at the axles. Second, the lower arms and shock towers have several holes to allow plenty of adjustments to the shock locations for suspension tuning. And 3rd, the aluminum adjustible shock bodies with dirt covers installed.
Well that's all for today. But like noted above, it's all still laid out and ready so anytime I can work on it I can just do it! With that in mind the next update shouldn't be far off.
Last edited:
Lessen
Super Awesome!
Supporter
Nice cleanup job Randy :thumbup: I only dream of a workspace like that. My wife desperately wants my stuff out of the house as well.. but there's just nowhere else to go right now.
MotoGod
Hardcore RCTalk User
Looking good so far....There is a guy on eBay that sells Warhead parts for DIRT CHEAP as well. I have won parts to just about rebuild the truck from the ground up for @ $60 so far. I got a full set of NIP RTX-27 rims/tires for $13, a set of sideplates for $7, and a bunch of other high dollar parts for pennies on the dollar ;-) I'll get you a link tonight, but I think his username is groovie-stuf on eBay. Just search for Warhead out there and if the pic has an RTX-27 image in the background...it's probably him.
MotoGod
Hardcore RCTalk User
Here is a link to one of his auction for chassis plates. Still at $0.99 with 2 hours to go and no bids.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-DuraTrax-RT...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:2|294:50
He has a BUNCH of others ending in 2 hours with no bids as well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-DuraTrax-RT...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:2|294:50
He has a BUNCH of others ending in 2 hours with no bids as well.
As for the rust, since you took the time to clean it off, I'd hit everything with a coat of WD40. It will stick for quite a while on parts that don't make contact with anything. It should help keep the rust at bay.
Looked 10 times better with the rust gone. Almost new!
Looked 10 times better with the rust gone. Almost new!
RC Addict
RCTalk VIP
Maybe a dumb idea but when I clean rusty stuff on my truck, ATV, 18 wheeler, etc. I spray 'em with a shot of clear spray paint...
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks man! I built that bench about 12 yrs ago to work on small engines. I was going to form bend a stainless steel top for it but switched jobs before I got to it.
Thanks for the link, I have seen his stuff before. I'm not one to buy a lot of spare parts though,until they break. Then I buy 2 of whatever that part is.
Thanks for the tip, already got that covered :thumbup:
Nah, I don't have enough patience for that.
LosiLST
Gone - bye bye.
This is looking awesome Randy! I am really impressed with your work. it just amazes me on what attention to detail can do. I love watching your work and can't wait to see your aftershock build up. I'm be starting mine here soon. Mine will make your look like poo though. lol.
charliejp
Hardcore RCTalk User
Looking good man!
- Thread starter
- #34
The Engine
Time for another update!
This time we revisit the engine. As noted in an earlier post, I found a bad clutch to replace but the engine looked real good when I pulled the head. Well since I had to pull the flywheel to upgrade the clutch and the carb had some rust and the engine was still a bit dirty, I decided to do a complete tear down and cleanup on the engine. Also as a precaution I am going to seal her up. So apart she comes!
Again I'm happy to find everything in like new condition. The pinch is tight enough that when I turned the crank the piston pushed the sleeve out of the block. As I'm cleaning I notice a few things I like in the design of this engine. O-rings! The backplate has on o-ring seal around it and another o-ring seal inside to seal against the starter shaft. This should make the one-way bearing last a bit longer in my opinion, and really I don't think rtv is necessary. But I already have it and decided to do it anyway.
Another item I like is the spring loaded pin for the starter. It's a tiny sucker so if you're taking one of these apart be careful not to lose it or the tiny spring behind it. These fit into the crankpin where the con-rod mounts. What I like is this method allows the pin to retract once the engine is running allowing the engine to overrun the starter shaft instead of the shaft overrunning the owb. This again should add some life to the owb.
Next up is the carb. I competely disassembled and cleaned it up, wire brushing the throttle arm and hsn/fuel inlet assembly. Then I carefully re-assembled it and reset the needles to factory settings. I noticed another item here I liked. They double o-ringed the carb base, one at the base of the main body and one lower on the neck. This desing too IMO, should probably not need the rtv. But once again, it's easy and simple so I do it anyway.
So with everything sealed and back together it's time to install the new 3 shoe clutch and flywheel. I was tempted to put my aluminum shoes on(even had them laid out) but decided I would save them for the Savage. For the next step, since it was part of the upgrade kit and I like roto-starts, I opted to do away with the pullstart and assembled the super start cover to the engine. Something to note here, the owb and clutches are the same as the Savage.
The last thing for the engine is the cooling head. Not that I dislike red, but it just looks wrong to me when the rest of the truck is green, yellow and black. So the red has to go. I took it to the shop and bead blasted it. No more red in a hurry!
Well it looks better than it did red but still to me it looks kind of bland. So I'm going to do smoething else to it. I have a couple of ideas but that's where we'll pick next time.
Time for another update!
This time we revisit the engine. As noted in an earlier post, I found a bad clutch to replace but the engine looked real good when I pulled the head. Well since I had to pull the flywheel to upgrade the clutch and the carb had some rust and the engine was still a bit dirty, I decided to do a complete tear down and cleanup on the engine. Also as a precaution I am going to seal her up. So apart she comes!
Again I'm happy to find everything in like new condition. The pinch is tight enough that when I turned the crank the piston pushed the sleeve out of the block. As I'm cleaning I notice a few things I like in the design of this engine. O-rings! The backplate has on o-ring seal around it and another o-ring seal inside to seal against the starter shaft. This should make the one-way bearing last a bit longer in my opinion, and really I don't think rtv is necessary. But I already have it and decided to do it anyway.
Another item I like is the spring loaded pin for the starter. It's a tiny sucker so if you're taking one of these apart be careful not to lose it or the tiny spring behind it. These fit into the crankpin where the con-rod mounts. What I like is this method allows the pin to retract once the engine is running allowing the engine to overrun the starter shaft instead of the shaft overrunning the owb. This again should add some life to the owb.
Next up is the carb. I competely disassembled and cleaned it up, wire brushing the throttle arm and hsn/fuel inlet assembly. Then I carefully re-assembled it and reset the needles to factory settings. I noticed another item here I liked. They double o-ringed the carb base, one at the base of the main body and one lower on the neck. This desing too IMO, should probably not need the rtv. But once again, it's easy and simple so I do it anyway.
So with everything sealed and back together it's time to install the new 3 shoe clutch and flywheel. I was tempted to put my aluminum shoes on(even had them laid out) but decided I would save them for the Savage. For the next step, since it was part of the upgrade kit and I like roto-starts, I opted to do away with the pullstart and assembled the super start cover to the engine. Something to note here, the owb and clutches are the same as the Savage.
The last thing for the engine is the cooling head. Not that I dislike red, but it just looks wrong to me when the rest of the truck is green, yellow and black. So the red has to go. I took it to the shop and bead blasted it. No more red in a hurry!
Well it looks better than it did red but still to me it looks kind of bland. So I'm going to do smoething else to it. I have a couple of ideas but that's where we'll pick next time.
ajames942
Hardcore RCTalk User
Dude I love your projects!! Always AWESOME!!
MotoGod
Hardcore RCTalk User
Looking good man, wanna clean up mine next ;-)
Here is mine after the tear down/cleanup, but I wanted to drive it so I have yet to clean the wheels!
http://picasaweb.google.com/spouliot/DuraTraxWarhead#5298744975870220242
http://picasaweb.google.com/spouliot/DuraTraxWarhead#5298745021990150738
http://picasaweb.google.com/spouliot/DuraTraxWarhead#5298745073072449778
Here is mine after the tear down/cleanup, but I wanted to drive it so I have yet to clean the wheels!
http://picasaweb.google.com/spouliot/DuraTraxWarhead#5298744975870220242
http://picasaweb.google.com/spouliot/DuraTraxWarhead#5298745021990150738
http://picasaweb.google.com/spouliot/DuraTraxWarhead#5298745073072449778
- Thread starter
- #37
Thanks!
Looks nice to me, ArmorAll does wonders for the tires. Quick and easy just the way I like it!
- Thread starter
- #38
Well the first attempt didn't give me the results I wanted. Back to the drawing board.
Revo3.3Racer
RCTalk Qualifier
any updates ?
Skwerly
RCTalk Addict
WOW! What a difference a little polish and elbow grease makes, eh? Nice work! 
Similar threads
-
easy rider
- RC Garage and Projects