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AE shocks on a 2wd Slash?

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clm77

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Good morning all, first off, I searched... extensively. My question is, per the subject, regarding the fitment of AE shocks on a Slash. I have embarked on a Slash build for the purpose of returning to racing and hopefully getting my daughter interested (actually still in the parts acquisition phase), and I am curious about options for shocks. I have read mixed reviews on the Proline Powerstrokes, so I'm hesitant to invest in those. I have purchased a set of Traxxas GTRs, but in truth, I am not overwhelmed with the quality. Yes, I probably should have just started off with an AE kit. At this point, I have spent more than I would have if I had just gone that way. But here we are, no looking back now... so, can AE shocks be made to fit, and what length bodies/shafts are the best fit?
 
I have read mixed reviews on the Proline Powerstrokes, so I'm hesitant to invest in those.
Agreed, plus the PL ProSpec shocks, idk if they're still around but I heard many with PL shocks overall had leaky seals. @WickedFog told me and I was like, huge oof for Horizon. Guess they're quality control issues got to ProLine. I would've expect that for 70 dollar for a pair of shocks (about 160 bucks!?!? For a set!) they would be decent, nope. So I took those off the list.
I have purchased a set of Traxxas GTRs, but in truth, I am not overwhelmed with the quality
GTRs are on my list to get in the future. Heard good things about them. and they do look promising for the price. Bigger bore, threaded bodies, looks like a beefier shock shaft too. Compared to the OEM plastic Ultra shocks which are still good imho. and the terribly designed traxxas Big Bore shocks, which are not big bore at all. Lol. Imho, OEM Ultra shocks can still be a good shock. I run them on my rustler. I currently have OEM fronts that are 5 years old and I just have OEM replacements in the rears from Jenny's RC. Only bent 1 shock shaft before, and those plastic caps are super tight, and the shocks overall are super plush. Maybe I just don't bash hard enough...🤷‍♂️ If I were to say on the cheap and just toughen up the ultra shocks, I would just do slightly thicker oil (depending what you're doing.), TiNi shafts, and Aluminum caps and it would be a great shock on the cheap.
can AE shocks be made to fit, and what length bodies/shafts are the best fit?
I seen it be done before, not sure on the length but I'll research it up after I post this, most likely the older SC6.2 (12mm bore) shocks would work great! Although, here's the kicker, you would need to make, get, or use AE shock standoffs at the shock towers as Associated uses a pivot ball for it, instead for traxxas they just use a screw directly in the tower. SC6.4 (13mm bore) shocks might be able to fit, not sure but I would think they would. 13mm bore so you would get more dampening, well not necessarily more dampening but it would give off more smoother and consistent dampening per say. I would just watch the length and clearance.

Going back to the Proline thing, we all know about that, BUT, TLR/Losi race spec shocks are built with better parts, from what I've had seen online and with me running them on my 22 5.0. Although those are buggy spec shocks, the 22sct (3.0 if you want newest) shocks can be pretty dang good. Why is losi better than proline? That is because those TLR models with those shocks released years ago (around 6+ years right now, ago) when parts quality was better from Horizon, compared to modern day, especially ProLine, like said above. With losi shocks, you would also have to get or use a shock standoff at the shock tower like Associated does.
 
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Shocks are pretty easy to adapt, just make sure lengths are correct or where you want them. Getting something like 5mm shorter all around would help since you most likely want to lower the ride height by more than 5mm to begin with. Otherwise you'll be using shock inserts.

I'm used to the cheap plastic Traxxas shocks from racing oval rules requiring them. I think they hold up well, are easy to build, and are easier to adjust rebound. Not saying they are better, but if you have them already they are not half bad when setup correctly
 
Thank you all for your responses, plenty of food for thought... Much appreciated!
 
I personally love my premium upgrade shocks I've got on my slash, they work really well for me. Never had an issue and I've sent them to hell and back... If you are truly committed to going a different route with AE I have very little Intel on those, but I feel like the shocks on the RB 10 would fit well. And before you get any further, get a low CG chassis conversion kit. That is 100% necessary if you're racing in my opinion.
 
I personally love my premium upgrade shocks I've got on my slash, they work really well for me. Never had an issue and I've sent them to hell and back... If you are truly committed to going a different route with AE I have very little Intel on those, but I feel like the shocks on the RB 10 would fit well. And before you get any further, get a low CG chassis conversion kit. That is 100% necessary if you're racing in my opinion.
What more specifically are the premium upgrade shocks you mentioned? I'm definitely not committed to AE shocks, just seems like an option which may provide a wide availability of parts and tuning options... as far as the lcg chassis goes, yes, I already have one on the shelf (along with a whole host of other upgrades) waiting for the build to commence. Thank you for taking the time to reply.
 
What more specifically are the premium upgrade shocks you mentioned? I'm definitely not committed to AE shocks, just seems like an option which may provide a wide availability of parts and tuning options... as far as the lcg chassis goes, yes, I already have one on the shelf (along with a whole host of other upgrades) waiting for the build to commence. Thank you for taking the time to reply.
You said in a previous post that you bought gtr shocks.
I have purchased a set of Traxxas GTRs.
Did look up GT-R shocks and did see you probably got different ones, but I've got the big bore aluminums with the gold shaft and all that, I run those. They're like the stock ones but much higher quality, and they will be good for racing. You can put different oil and springs and spacers and all that good stuff like any other shocks.
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Pardon the bad image quality, but these are the ones I run. They are the big bore shocks and come in this kit with spacers, the shocks, and 30wt oil that you gotta put in first. GTRs aren't big bore to my knowledge, and they have the screw type spacers instead of the clip ons which is nice for fine tuning but a pain for quick changing. I believe the number is 5862, and that is what i have
1000005255.webp

Heres mine with a decent view of one of the shocks and you can kinda see the rear one too. Notice how they have a bit of dust on them, but other than that, they don't have a scratch. The stock ones lasted half this long and they were so beat up I could barely use them.

Now I did see those proline shocks you were talking about and I did like those 😉


That answer your question at all 🤔🤷‍♂️
 
You said in a previous post that you bought gtr shocks.

Did look up GT-R shocks and did see you probably got different ones, but I've got the big bore aluminums with the gold shaft and all that, I run those. They're like the stock ones but much higher quality, and they will be good for racing. You can put different oil and springs and spacers and all that good stuff like any other shocks. View attachment 243407

Pardon the bad image quality, but these are the ones I run. They are the big bore shocks and come in this kit with spacers, the shocks, and 30wt oil that you gotta put in first. GTRs aren't big bore to my knowledge, and they have the screw type spacers instead of the clip ons which is nice for fine tuning but a pain for quick changing. I believe the number is 5862, and that is what i have View attachment 243409
Heres mine with a decent view of one of the shocks and you can kinda see the rear one too. Notice how they have a bit of dust on them, but other than that, they don't have a scratch. The stock ones lasted half this long and they were so beat up I could barely use them.

Now I did see those proline shocks you were talking about and I did like those 😉


That answer your question at all 🤔🤷‍♂️
GTRs are bigger bore than the "big bores" or stock ultra shocks any day, if you look at at the models that are installed on by the factory and compare the size to the models that have the ultra shocks from the factory.

The "Big Bore" shocks, are *ok* imho. Its literally the same thing as a ultra shock but just aluminum cap and body, tini shaft, ect. BUT one thing I don't like about them and why I don't recommend them, although I run them on my truck since I run with what I got, is that if you go to rebuild them, fully like getting to the internal seals, it is a absolute pain in the a** to rebuild them as traxxas did a snap ring to hold the seals in, instead of a threaded/locking cap which the ultra shocks and most other shocks use. So nothing that negative on the big bores, it's just false advertising by traxxas to say "big bore" while they're not, and make sure you have the right tools, before fully rebuilding them, ie snap ring pliers. ;) (and shock pliers if you wanna get down and dirty, into the real stuff.)

I do agree with the preload adjustment. Having *threaded* bodies makes it much more easier to adjust and tune on the fly. Because the preload clips are a pain to get on/off the shock body especially if your on a time limit if you're racing or tuning for next round, and you really can't "fine" tune like threaded bodies. And you would always have to carry clips around if you wanna change up your suspension. I have a whole ziplock baggie dedicated to traxxas preload clips and body clips in my pit bag. Can take up a lot of space sometimes.
 
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GTRs are bigger bore than the "big bores" or stock ultra shocks any day, if you look at at the models that are installed on by the factory and compare the size to the models that have the ultra shocks from the factory.

The "Big Bore" shocks, are *ok* imho. Its literally the same thing as a ultra shock but just aluminum cap and body, tini shaft, ect. BUT one thing I don't like about them and why I don't recommend them, although I run them on my truck since I run with what I got, is that if you go to rebuild them, fully like getting to the internal seals, it is a absolute pain in the a** to rebuild them as traxxas did a snap ring to hold the seals in, instead of a threaded/locking cap which the ultra shocks and most other shocks use. So nothing that negative on the big bores, it's just false advertising by traxxas to say "big bore" while their not, and make sure you have the right tools, before fully rebuilding them, ie snap ring pliers. ;)
Oh good to know. Didn't know they were bigger bore. I've never had to rebuild and I've sent those shocks to hell and back
 
Oh good to know. Didn't know they were bigger bore. I've never had to rebuild and I've sent those shocks to hell and back
Yea its all good. I still bash with them on my Slash and they handle it all fine. But on my rustler did have a rear shock with super leaky seals and then I went to go rebuild them and then I was like, how do I get this snap ring off? Lol. So that's why I just went to Jenny's and got OEM replacement ultra shocks and just sent it. Only bent 1 shaft before so stock shocks *can* be strong if you don't crash or bash hard, because it looks to me that I don't. Lol. I still have those set of big bores so I might be do a Harbor Freight trip soon to get snap ring pliers and bring that set back to life.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the great info, certainly gives me plenty to consider. At the very least, I can say that I have more confidence that I don't necessarily have to adapt shocks from a different brand to get decent, consistent performance.
 
Thanks to everyone for all the great info, certainly gives me plenty to consider. At the very least, I can say that I have more confidence that I don't necessarily have to adapt shocks from a different brand to get decent, consistent performance.
no, you don't have to adapt shocks. Like i said, even the ultras can handle fine. aluminum caps are a good idea for the ultras, but i've only had one cap come off in all my times racing. Traxxas isn't big in RC racing but they are still great for beginners, learning, and a cheap option compared to most other options.
 
no, you don't have to adapt shocks. Like i said, even the ultras can handle fine. aluminum caps are a good idea for the ultras, but i've only had one cap come off in all my times racing. Traxxas isn't big in RC racing but they are still great for beginners, learning, and a cheap option compared to most other options.
Agreed. Just like I said. Ultra shocks can be very durable if you hop em up just a bit. Alloy caps, TiNi shafts. IMHO slightly thicker oil, and they are a champ.
 
I use the shocks off the Losi Tenacity on my Rustler https://ebay.us/m/aJIhbq

All I ever did with the stock shocks was bend shafts but only on the Stampede and only on the rear.

Don't buy Hot Racing shocks they are terrible like all of the cheap Chinese shocks, they leak, the shafts bend because they are stainless steel and the included springs along with their variable rate spring kit were either too soft or too stiff.
 
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I use the shocks off the Losi Tenacity on my Rustler https://ebay.us/m/aJIhbq

All I ever did with the stock shocks was bend shafts but only on the Stampede and only on the rear.

Don't buy Hot Racing shocks they are terrible like all of the cheap Chinese shocks, they leak, the shafts bend because they are stainless steel and the included springs along with their variable rate spring kit were either too soft or too stiff.

Do you happen to know the eye-to-eye length of the shocks?
Did the included springs/spring rate work for lighter 2wd platform?
 
Do you happen to know the eye-to-eye length of the shocks?
Did the included springs/spring rate work for lighter 2wd platform?

Fronts are 85mm eye to eye and the rears are 100mm eye to eye. Stock springs are a little on the stiff side for a 2wd vehicle but they work for how I drive. But Losi and Associated have a nice selection of springs that work on them.
 
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