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Questions and problems about my Traxxas Slash 2WD

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Finesavageboy2

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As you guys know I proudly own a heavily modified slash 2wd. And over time, I notice some problems with it.
1. My slash loves to strip out the hex that is built into the rim.
2. Has really bad wear patterns on the wheels, indicating that my camber is off.
For the first one, I have a hard time keeping wheels on the car. That’s because of the inner hex of the rim easily strips out:


New Rim:
IMG_0182.webp

Stripped Rim:
IMG_0184.webp

Now I think I know the reason. I have a slipper clutch eliminator and a diff locker. This puts a lot of stress on these rims, causing the hex to spin inside the rim. Eventually I did take it apart and it now doesn’t have a locker in it anymore. It still has a clutch eliminator still in it, and I have not seen signs of stripping since. Now I COULD fix this issue by putting a stock slipper clutch in it, but I absolutely hate those things. And with how I drive these, I’d have to replace the slipper clutch pads and rotor constantly, and I don’t want to do that. I have tried upgrading the 12mm hexes to metal, because the plastic hexes were starting to become circles because of how many times I stripped wheels, but no dice. So now my question is should I upgrade the hexes to a bigger size or is there is different shape of one that would help stop or make it less likely to strip?
For the second one I've had this problem for as long as I've had this car, and even have talked about it in previous posts that I've made. This being my stubborn camber and toe adjustments of my slash. So far I think I've re-adjusted my camber 5-6 times and it always ends up being wonky. At first I was just eyeballing it, but then I got the RPM camber adjustment tool and used that. I'm not doing anything wrong, I go through the normal steps to do it, but it just undoes my work. Here are some pictures:


The toe of the rear wheels:
20251001_184021.webp



The Camber of the Left Wheel:
IMG_0183.webp



The Camber of the Right Wheel:
IMG_0185.webp


So the toe is REALLY bad. I don’t know what that is about… The left has an exceptionally positive Camber, and the right is hard to notice, but it does have some positive camber. The camber links are stock and the hubs are RPM, and the lower control arms are extreme heavy duty. I do have new stock camber links. My question is will this fix my camber issues by putting the new stock links on, or do I upgrade them? Also how do I fix my toe? I think I know how to fix my toe, but I’d like some suggestions first.
 
I run a locker and have no issues with stripped hex's. Broken axle stubs is a whole nother thing though 😂

The rear toe is normal. Its built into the truck for what.. 2 or 3 degrees. You want them toed in though. It will be very unstable if your at 0 rear toe. Toe in= good. Toe out= bad.

Fronts different. You want a degree or 2 of toe out. It will help keep the truck stable at speed. Toe in up front will make it twitchy.
 
I run a locker and have no issues with stripped hex's. Broken axle stubs is a whole nother thing though 😂

The rear toe is normal. Its built into the truck for what.. 2 or 3 degrees. You want them toed in though. It will be very unstable if your at 0 rear toe. Toe in= good. Toe out= bad.

Fronts different. You want a degree or 2 of toe out. It will help keep the truck stable at speed. Toe in up front will make it twitchy.
Thanks for the info! I did not know that the toe should be like that! Do you just use the regular factory 12mm hexes?
 
Dumb question but are you getting the wheels tight? Staying tight?

The stock hex's are plenty strong enough for the application. I feel like something must be being overlooked. If thats the case then new wheels and hex's aren't going to solve the issue.
 
Dumb question but are you getting the wheels tight? Staying tight?

The stock hex's are plenty strong enough for the application. I feel like something must be being overlooked. If thats the case then new wheels and hex's aren't going to solve the issue.
Yeah every run I make I check the tires if there loose or tight.
If your hex's are getting damaged at all when the wheel strips out, that could be the cause. A worn hex will ruin the wheel fast.
Yeah at first they were worn out, so I bought so metal 12mm hexes, but they had stripped again with 5-10 passes
 
I would try aluminum rims. It sounds like an insane amount of torque there. Or the set pin for hex is spinning out. Aluminum hex would be a fix for that.
 
A tight wheel nut, good hex adaptors, and a good wheel will take lots of punishment. A wheel nut loosening just a bit can cause all sorts of havoc. Locking wheel nuts with sharp serrations on the flange:
1759671681659.webp

... crank 'em down!

In the meantime... JB Weld; hexes, and some screws... repair and go. Use screws to reenforce repair.
How to Fix a Stripped-Out Wheel Hex
1679187144213.png


A person can prevent cheap plastic wheel hexes from deforming with screws as well.
 
Last edited:
Yeah I'm planning on getting traxxas 6856x 17mm conversion kit and just getting some short couse wheels.
A tight wheel nut, good hex adaptors, and a good wheel will take lots of punishment. A wheel nut loosening just a bit can cause all sorts of havoc. Locking wheel nuts with sharp serrations on the flange:
View attachment 250864
... crank 'em down!

In the meantime... JB Weld; hexes, and some screws... repair and go. Use screws to reenforce repair.
A person can prevent cheap plastic wheel hexes from deforming with screws as well.
I didn't have those at first. I'll make sure I get some when buying my stuff for it. (It'll be here soon because my battery to esc adapter broke so I can't run it)
Aliminum Hexes will help a lot I'd bet.

Tuning the camber links can help with the tire wear. also getting some new rod ends to lessen slop in the camber may also help a bit. Having a somewhat similar problem with my Slash and that's helping.
When I got new wheels last year, I noticed that the stock plastic ones were heavily worn, so I bought some cheap metal ones from Amazon. I don't really like em because they have those tiny grub screws and if you crank em down too hard, they strip out. Some of them don't have there clutch power anymore, so I'm gonna replace them.
 
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