Build Thread A little Tekno nitro buggy work this evening..🤘

[Littlemotor]

Sadly, it appears that even after all that care and attention... it's still going to be a nitro when you're done?

Not all of us like to pee sitting down…

 

[Littlemotor]

Let’s continue along, & get these dudes with some ‘spenshunnnn…

We’ve been using as many items from the first rendition as makes sense, but this is buggin’ a mofo, and I’m absolutely positive that upon completion-dudeman would be like, “hey chief-I wish we’d have replaced that freakin tired wing mount while we had it on the bench..”.. Say less my dude, say less.. Back to my stash of garbage..

Exaaaaactly..

Last batch of carryover parts to clean up.. Just some Dawn & agua for these dudes..

And back into my robbing Peter to pay Paul routine..

And one more from my personal, new nitro truggy build.. This one was actually MY fault, and just happened to slip by me on the “grocery list”..

Pile-O-parts..

Now I typically modify the upgraded aluminum swaybar collars, but I DO want to leave him the option of flipping them to run bearings, rather than deadband bushings for an oiled, or glued track.. He may never need to-but I wanna leave him the option if he so desires..

New links assembled..

 

[Littlemotor]

Truck uses all updated/long style hingepin bushings, while buggy uses (2) of the earlier design, but updated material..

Pressed in the John Holmes edition..

-and the “fun sized”..

Now the J&T Titanium droop screws.. This is not just a super swanky, baller Bill Replacement here.. I recommend, and run them myself in ALL my whips because they are FLAT. Other manufacturers offer them as well, but still have a domed head.. Why… It’s only an upgrade if it works BETTER-otherwise it may as well be bright dammit blue, and say “INTEGY” down the side.. These things save you chassis more than any other part-including skid plates. I’m happy to provide detailed piktars of what the OEM Droop screws do to your brand new aluminum chassis in no time at all.. Couldn’t care less about the weight savings, and I’d run them in MALLORY metal-so long as they were flat faced.. Fight me in the comments.

Reverse it, Terry!!!

Like brand new titties..

Pill-poppin’ like a boss.. Straight centered for the D-block..

Level, and all the way out for the C-block.. 1st race is on an indoor, super maintained track with tight corners, and put near polished clay.. Super high traction..

 

[Littlemotor]

-continued… In case you were completely oblivious as to how these threads work..

Lock her down with a 12.9 of the Tony’s Screws persuasion..

Toss in some hinge pins for these ‘spenshunnn arms to hang on to..

Splack in the existing C-block to tie it all together..

Screw it dude…

Getting there..

Endlinks to follow.

I mock up the assembly, and come back in with Loctite medium stick when I know exactly where everything is happy..

 

[Littlemotor]

Moarrrrrrr paaaaaahts… Super-wicked..

you know the dealio by now..

I almost ALWAYS prefer the 5-hole roll center adjustment inserts, so that’s what we’re getting here as well.. This will work perfectly with the setup I’m giving him to start out with, and will provide the best (IMO) tweak possibilities for Mike’s Gulf Coast RC Raceway, in Tejas…

This shiit starts getting me pumped.. Everytime ya see axles on the bench, it’s about to start looking like some bidnezzz..

AVID Revolution’s..

Stab in a FRONT uni for the rear…

Everyone that knows me, is well aware of how I feel about the Rojo… I think this thing is gonna turn out pretty clean, and tasteful though… Considering..

Cleaned up outer hinge pins, and bushings, new wheelbase adjustment shims, and new steel Nyloc’s..

So nice that Tekno does this… Same deal as the inner’s.

 

[Littlemotor]

annnnnnd we’re back… what’s that?!? -awwwww, I missed you guys too..

Other side, check.

Next batch-O-goodies..

Dude, I LOVE building some fresh turnbuckles..

Before we install this dude, do you have a moment that we can discuss our Lord , and Savior-Jesus Christ? I’m kidding.. So I can’t do this and NOT bring it up… -installation side MATTERS..

NOT through this side..

Always through THIS side. You can CLEARLY see the “ring” around the outside of the socket.. This will ABSOLUTELY help your balls to stay where you put them.. Just sayin..

Back to it then…

I always ream my rod ends for virgin camber links.. ALWAYS..

I also have my O-Ring grease on standby everytime. I build them, and check them. If they NEED to be backed out, and the threads greased, then they’ll get it. These did not.

“this little guy? Oh I wouldn’t worry about this little guy…”..

From the back side of the tower, we go M3x25 12.9 flat head, tower, M3 zinc/steel flat washer, flipped M3 countersunk washer (natural), camber link HAIII’d aluminum pivot ball, then steel M3 serrated Nyloc. I NEVER use fancy aluminum nuts here. This assembly see’s too much abuse for that. Same as the front inners AND outers.

 

[Littlemotor]

I’m accepting it…

Alright, alriiiiight-shut it.. Yeah; it looks “OK”…

Moving on to getting this sucker onto the chassis..

OoOoOooooOOOoooo; “Rojo…”…

Get all jiggy wit it..

Locked down..

Both sides..

 

[Xraycer]

@Littlemotor building rc be like....

 

[Littlemotor]

I always start with the chassis brace first.. You can get some threads in, then manipulate the rest of the rear assembly around as you need to, much easier than the other end first.. Just my .02..

Then the outer M3’s for the C-block. These are optional for chassis tuning obviously. We are running them in Tajas.. Don’t forget your Loctite fewl…

Both sides..

M4x20’s in the rear..

M3x12 holds down the center.. Followed my 4x15’s just behind the C-block..

Presto. It’s magic.

We likes it..

 

[TeknoJ]

I always start with the chassis brace first.. You can get some threads in, then manipulate the rest of the rear assembly around as you need to, much easier than the other end first.. Just my .02..

View attachment 257914

Then the outer M3’s for the C-block. These are optional for chassis tuning obviously. We are running them in Tajas.. Don’t forget your Loctite fewl…

View attachment 257915

Both sides..

View attachment 257916

M4x20’s in the rear..

View attachment 257917

M3x12 holds down the center.. Followed my 4x15’s just behind the C-block..

View attachment 257918

Presto. It’s magic.

View attachment 257919

We likes it..

View attachment 257920View attachment 257921View attachment 257922

Red anodized hardware?

 

[Littlemotor]

Red anodized hardware?

Correct. Tell me you’ve only been scoping the pics without saying it..

 

[Spksh]

Alright, alriiiiight-shut it.. Yeah; it looks “OK”…

 

[Spksh]

And back into my robbing Peter to pay Paul routine..

I think we're all supposed to be saying "paying it forward" now.

 

[Littlemotor]

I think we're all supposed to be saying "paying it forward" now.

I'm old man-I understand that about as much as “yeeted”, and “no cap”..

 

[Spksh]

It’s only an upgrade if it works BETTER-otherwise it may as well be bright dammit blue, and say “INTEGY” down the side.

I pulled all this off my next project car...

I’m happy to provide detailed piktars of what the OEM Droop screws do to your brand new aluminum chassis in no time at all.

What, you don't like steel drums?

 

[9x19]

Not all of us like to pee sitting down…

At my age, you do whatever it takes...

 

[Warby]

 

[Littlemotor]

View attachment 257965View attachment 257966

I dunno why I didn’t get a notification for this reply, but I LOL’d HARD just now..

 

[Littlemotor]

Shew…. Got a couple photards to dump off today…

You ready? Let’s get it on!!

There maaaaaaaay be an upgrade or two, among these updates..

First order of bidness..

Y'all followed along with this once already in this thread, so no need to bore ya to death with endlinks assembly 101..

Mugen on-road roll center spacers in place of the plastic Tekno units..

First-fish that fat daddy swaybar through..

Then pop in the new deadband bushings..

Again-not modifying the collars as I do for my own stuff, as I want him to have the option of running bearings on high grip, grooved/super maintained tracks, if he so desires..

And slide em on..

Boom shakka-lakka..

Rolling on with the B-block, and doin’ a bit of pill-poppin… these should get him at least very CLOSE to where he’ll wanna be for Mike’ Gulf Coast, in Tejas..

Hinge pins going in..

 

[Littlemotor]

Onto the NB2.2 control arms.. Splacking in the J&T titanium droop screws first..

Next up are the revised NB2.2 long style inner hinge pin bushings..

You kids get your arms back in the damned car!!!

A-block action.. These pills will give a bit less initial kick up for the high grip/tight turns @ Mike’s..

Gonna go on with the front bumper temporarily. Will need to remove this-or at least loosen it a fair amount once I get to installing the front clip to the chassis..

Like so..

Retain the endlinks with Tony’s 12.9 cap screws..

Nexxxxxxxxxxt!!!

AVID RC Revolutions.. New NB2.2 spindles, along with NB2.2 “G” Ackerman plates..