Build Thread A little Tekno nitro buggy work this evening..🤘

[Littlemotor]

Gotta love the running commentary!

I grew up (or didn’t-more accurately ) reading a LOT of Car Craft anytime I took the Browns to the Super Bowl.. I’m sure some of that is evident in these threads.. Ol’ Freiburger, and Douglas Glad would be proud, I’m sure..

 

[Littlemotor]

OMG, he's slowing down.

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You are killing me lately with your replies… Well played sir, well dammit played..

I really have been slacking man, I swear it!

 

[Littlemotor]

Great work as usual. That motor looks gorgeous.

Thanks brotha!!! I think it’s the baddest off-road .21 produced to this day tbh.. I’ve got (2) of them. Both modified. He scored it on my recommendation at a SMOKIN’ price from Joe over at Absolute.. He’s gonna be dumbfounded the first time he gets a finger full of that trigger..

 

[TeknoJ]

He’s gonna be dumbfounded the first time he gets a finger full of that

 

[CertifiedMike]

I’ve got 0.2mm shims on hand, so I’ll simply verify thickness, and off they look good-then I’ll run (2).

Looks good.

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Double ‘em up..

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And I’m thinkin’ I’m in business.. The outer shim stack will tell the story.. I prefer not to be over (2) shims if I can help it.

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Put those shoes on before ya go outside kiddo’s!

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-aaaaaand (2) 0.2mm shims… Threadlocker for the AVID RC Titanium clutch retaining screw.. AFTER a dry run to verify your end play…

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Shims were correct! Smear the threads, and lock her down..

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Engine mount screws…

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Damn good looking motor for this bastard..

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Finally home..

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Install a header with a proper RC header hook tool, and you’ll never use anything else again… -or scratch another header.. stretch the piss out of a brand new spring.. put 17 tiny (but DEEEEP ) holes in your finger in 6min… You get the idea.. This Arrowmax unit was only $13 from Amain when I copped it on a whim..

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That’s gonna be one SERIOUSLY rockin’ combo..

This is Dani Choi with the same combo in his new K-car MP11… You cannot tell me this thing isn’t absolutely NASTY… Yeah-it’s a small track; just listen to this thing.. It’s less than 2.5min long..

I have an insanely modified version of this combo, and Ultimate Racing 2141 pipe going in my other nitro truggy build that’s coming up next on the ol’ bench… It’s gonna be LUDICROUS.

The solo track run was pretty awesome! That thing has some snap!

 

[Littlemotor]

The solo track run was pretty awesome! That thing has some snap!

I wasn’t bullllllshiittin, my friend..

And besides….

 

[Warby]

I’ve got 0.2mm shims on hand, so I’ll simply verify thickness, and off they look good-then I’ll run (2).

Looks good.

View attachment 258459

Double ‘em up..

View attachment 258460

And I’m thinkin’ I’m in business.. The outer shim stack will tell the story.. I prefer not to be over (2) shims if I can help it.

View attachment 258461

Put those shoes on before ya go outside kiddo’s!

View attachment 258462

-aaaaaand (2) 0.2mm shims… Threadlocker for the AVID RC Titanium clutch retaining screw.. AFTER a dry run to verify your end play…

View attachment 258463

Shims were correct! Smear the threads, and lock her down..

View attachment 258464

Engine mount screws…

View attachment 258465

Damn good looking motor for this bastard..

View attachment 258466View attachment 258467

Finally home..

View attachment 258468

Install a header with a proper RC header hook tool, and you’ll never use anything else again… -or scratch another header.. stretch the piss out of a brand new spring.. put 17 tiny (but DEEEEP ) holes in your finger in 6min… You get the idea.. This Arrowmax unit was only $13 from Amain when I copped it on a whim..

View attachment 258469View attachment 258470View attachment 258471View attachment 258472View attachment 258473

That’s gonna be one SERIOUSLY rockin’ combo..

This is Dani Choi with the same combo in his new K-car MP11… You cannot tell me this thing isn’t absolutely NASTY… Yeah-it’s a small track; just listen to this thing.. It’s less than 2.5min long..

I have an insanely modified version of this combo, and Ultimate Racing 2141 pipe going in my other nitro truggy build that’s coming up next on the ol’ bench… It’s gonna be LUDICROUS.

Boogerz. All I got after this 3.5hr thread update… The forum work from my freakin PHONE takes longer than the actual work does, I swear..

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I accidentally snuck the J&T stung pipe mount, and hanger boss in before I managed to take any more photos.. Sue me lolz..

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Looking goooood

 

[Littlemotor]

Looking goooood

Thanks buddy!!! (still not looking as fresh and clean as that Mugen….)

 

[Warby]

Thanks buddy!!! (still not looking as fresh and clean as that Mugen….)

Bullshite. Are you high?

Thanks for the compliment thought.

 

[Littlemotor]

Bullshite. Are you high?

Thanks for the compliment thought.

Me?!?

 

[CertifiedMike]

I wasn’t bullllllshiittin, my friend..

And besides….

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My work here is almost done!

 

[Littlemotor]

Alright, I’ve got a full plate today with other obligations, and I wanna not spend 3.5hrs updating this so I’m gonna dump off some more work here now-while I’ve got a few minutes..

Massive parts pile for this one..

Setup for the process.. Keep it simple, stooopid..

Obvious… prepping everything..

Shorty top hat first.. small diameter end keys into the shock body..

Hard to tell here, but you know wtf I’m sayin..

Followed by o-ring #1..

Delrin spacer..

O-ring #2..

Abe Lincoln top hat with small diameter side AWAY from the shock body. This will key into the cartridge retaining nut @ the base of the shock.

This lil’ guy right here.. O-ring is already installed over the shock body.. I know, I know-it’s a bit of a “shocker”… @Chubaka would be uber proud of that triple word score maneuver..

Lock her on down..

And knock out the other three, verbatim as above..

 

[Littlemotor]

This vehicle was outfitted with my favorite VRP pistons, and Tekno Ti-Ni shafts, but the previous owner didn’t include any of the washers that allow you to tune them to your track conditions/driving style with, so my dude grabbed a set of MIP Bypass-1 pistons in 6x1.3mm.. These will work great, and are also adjustable on your compression side just like my tried & true VRP’s.. Not exactly the same, but do basically the same thing for a similar result in your drive.. Make sense? Good.

The cat’s outta the bag, now..
Those clear discs are a very thin plastic that flexes on compression to allow the oil through the inner holes, but upon extension-acts like a standard piston. You tune the compression with varying disc thicknesses. It’s a world of difference next to a standard piston. Once you drive on this type of shock, you’ll never drive on any other piston again.. The only thing better for our vehicles would be the SOTA stuff thaw out of Australia.. It’s absolutely NEXT LEVEL, and I’m eager to give it a whirl. They’re in my cart as we speak.. Anywhoooooo, back to my boy’s whip..

Assembled..

These are the holes that you tune for with the varying discs..

Repeat the process above on the remaining 3 piston/shaft assemblies..

I always lube my shaft too..

Install the ride height adjustment collars now. Also helps them sit proper in my VRP shock building stand. LOVE this freakin thing..

Going 500cst F&R to establish a close baseline at Mike’s Gulf Coast Raceway..

Filled, and worked up & down a dozen or so times to let any trapped air out. Take your time. Let them do their thing..

Doing an EMULSION build here, and about impossible to document as a one man wrecking crew.. -but the rears are bleed, and completed.

Same for the fronts..

Alright-I’m gonna get back to my day, and I’ll see if I can’t post up the season finale of this show later this evening, if time allows..

 

[Littlemotor]

Ready to finish rockin’ these shocks..

Another thing I do differently than Tekno “suggests”.. Orientate the caps so that a few different things are to my liking-the bleeder screws INBOARD out of harms way (dirt, crash, etc.), the bleeder vent hole faces to the REAR of the vehicle, and the flat side of the bushing faces AWAY from the tower.. Sooooooo many more than obvious reasons to do them this way.

Then three mo times…

Suited & booted.. The rears get the “x-tra long” from Tekno RC. The 2.2 kit does not provide them, and the OEM units do not cover the entire shaft on the rear shock.. hence-the x-tra long’s..

I like to install the shock ends so that the retaining screws are INboard, and accessible with your driver while ON the vehicle. Just a bit of foreshadowing here, and you’ll see what I mean in a minute.. I likely SHOULD have the BACK side of the screw facing the front to keep them free of dirt, but this keeps my OCD quiet(er ) when I’m trying to sleep..

Like so.

Now for the springs, and spring cups..

Retaining screws that I mentioned above..

Even on both sides.

One down, three to go.. Yes-I run short springs in the rear..

Blammo..

Now for the install..

The silver/gold shock screw is left-hand thread, and goes on the right-hand side (left-hand in the photo)..

 

[Littlemotor]

Moneyballs. Sure-why not..

Remember-LEFTY tighty, righty loosey… Or some such nonsense..

Front is complete.

Dat ass tho!!!

And some obligatory photard-whoring for your viewing pleasures…

Now on to the steps that will LITERALLY make or break your day at the track with a nitro buggy/truggy; throttle/brake linkage.. If you don’t do it right-it’s WRONG. Don’t be an idiot. Here’s how to do it the RIGHT way.

Parts haul laid out, and you KNOW, I’m gonna change some things that Tekno finds “acceptable”.. Yeah-it’ll “work”, but I simply prefer my way of removing a feline’s epidermis..

Gonna start by mocking up the throttle side of things. DRY RUN-as is the nature, and purpose of “mock up”.. Run the carburetor ball cup on & off several times to aid it adjustability when on the vehicle. Be careful not to go too far, and puncture the cup with the throttle rod. When in doubt-USE YOUR CALIPER..

I then apply a blip of silicone o-ring grease (so as not to damage the composite ball cup, while easing adjustments at the same time). Nothing sucks worse than trying to make adjustments on stuff when your adjusters won’t, well-adjuster..

Also a bit IN the ball cup. Doesn’t need much-you’ll simply hydraulics the thing, and it’ll explode when the drill forces the rod against it. The moarrr you know… Follow me for more incredible life hacks..

To the meat and potatoes.. Who’s hungry? I am.

 

[Littlemotor]

Let’s roll with our mock up measurements..

Ball cup is NOT installed, just close enough for what I’m doing here. Measurements taken, and rod marked for the choppin’..

I’m cheating on my brake rods-I may just happen to have a fresh NB2.2 on the wall at arms reach from me for verification..

Just need to be able to see it, and a sharpie is not very visible over threaded black rod… X-acto FTMFW…

And the throttle rod mark..

Need to grab the brake arms I marked in the beginning of this build, so the top half of the center diff stand is removed.

Why’s the uber-swanky, high dollar CNC’d J&T diff top plate in the shot? Because he’s catching a massage as well.. All that click machining, and anodizing, but the passage for the front brake rod is not in the correct location. I modify every single one I install.

My “vise”..

Perfecto.

Hey-it works, and I’ve got a good eye..

Next one.. Same dealio.

And finally the throttle rod.

I’m beyond used to modifying full-size “custom” racecars parts, so this is nuthin’, and NEEDS to be done.. Only time anyone will ever see it is right here. This is not hackshiit.

 

[MJT1212]

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Ready to finish rockin’ these shocks..

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Another thing I do differently than Tekno “suggests”.. Orientate the caps so that a few different things are to my liking-the bleeder screws INBOARD out of harms way (dirt, crash, etc.), the bleeder vent hole faces to the REAR of the vehicle, and the flat side of the bushing faces AWAY from the tower.. Sooooooo many more than obvious reasons to do them this way.

View attachment 258691

Then three mo times…

View attachment 258692

Suited & booted.. The rears get the “x-tra long” from Tekno RC. The 2.2 kit does not provide them, and the OEM units do not cover the entire shaft on the rear shock.. hence-the x-tra long’s..

View attachment 258693

I like to install the shock ends so that the retaining screws are INboard, and accessible with your driver while ON the vehicle. Just a bit of foreshadowing here, and you’ll see what I mean in a minute.. I likely SHOULD have the BACK side of the screw facing the front to keep them free of dirt, but this keeps my OCD quiet(er ) when I’m trying to sleep..


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Like so.

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Now for the springs, and spring cups..

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Retaining screws that I mentioned above..

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Even on both sides.

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One down, three to go.. Yes-I run short springs in the rear..

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Blammo..

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Now for the install..

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The silver/gold shock screw is left-hand thread, and goes on the right-hand side (left-hand in the photo)..

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So righty tighty....lefty loose doesn't apply here ....yea I'm paying attention....I see a few more of your builds....I'm thinking about jumping into the nitro side of things

 

[Littlemotor]

Yup. Not terribly terrible for freehand.. Now the brakes will actually function properly, and without any impedance due to mis-designed parts.. I will say that if you do not run servo grommets, this likely would not be a problem, however-it doesn’t take away from the fact that the channel FOR THE ROD is still not machined in the correct location.

Feel better now?

Touch up my surgery before installation.. Yes-I’d lose sleep if I didn’t..

MUCH gooder, properly cut down IMO..

Same for the front..

I NEVER run these. They just look like an absolute afterthought that was OK’d on Friday at 4:55pm.. Literally does not look like they’re from the same manufacturer as the rest of the kit.. I love me some Tekno, but c’mon guys..

So I always run either Serpent, or Mayako adjusters.. These are from my personal stash, and a gift to my boy here..

So yes-thumbs dammit up.

Some 12mm lengths of fuel tubing from his JTP baggy.. I much prefer my Mugen stuff.

Now we can build it.

Soooooo much more appropriate than those terrible first quarter tool and die student, donkey-peepee Tekno RC adjusters..

Gonna break away from the linkage briefly to install the fuel tank.. Good practice to be sure that I’m not gonna crash the brake linkage… Clearly I already knew this with my own vehicle right dammit beside me.. I was thinking of you derelicts, and doing it proper for RCTalk..

Some well managed blingtastical countersunk washers to spread the load-annnnnnnd look all Kool & the Gang..

 

[Littlemotor]

SIKE!!! I’m not dropping multiple fasteners down into the chassis lol… Let’s do this like a college graduate (or SOMEthin’..)..

That’s more like it..

I’m diggin’ the flip-floppin’ staggered colors.. yeah, yeah-even if one of em IS freakin Rojo..

Suh-weeeeetness…

Skipped ahead a bit, and just knocked out a few things sans piktarz.. Fuel line cut, and routed, along with a proper Lilmotah fuel tank pull.. I despise the Tekno fuel line clips/routing, and did it the best way I could see to make it happen.. I usually use Associated clips, and pop a couple holes in the tank to make the run more fluid.. Is what it is, and doesn’t look particularly out of place on this build I must say..

That proper linkage tho…

That’s a wrap-gonna box this dude up nice, and get it back to the customer. Hope he digs it.

 

[hriley05]

I always start with the chassis brace first.. You can get some threads in, then manipulate the rest of the rear assembly around as you need to, much easier than the other end first.. Just my .02..

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Then the outer M3’s for the C-block. These are optional for chassis tuning obviously. We are running them in Tajas.. Don’t forget your Loctite fewl…

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Both sides..

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M4x20’s in the rear..

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M3x12 holds down the center.. Followed my 4x15’s just behind the C-block..

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Presto. It’s magic.

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We likes it..

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This is when i started getting excited!!! Badass build buddy your the man