Build Thread A little Tekno nitro buggy work this evening..🤘

[Littlemotor]

Continuing with the AVID rollerizers..

NB2.2 front universal in..

Be generous with the threadlocker here on the M5x5 set screws.. keeps me from needing to do double set screws in each axle..

Now the “G” Ackerman plates..

SHAMMA-LAMMA-ZIIIIIIINGA!! I may have done one whilst ya weren’t lookin’…

Some kingpin shenanigans, along with the outer control arm hardware.. A couple different options here for axle height..

I’m going with “tall” axle height for this track. Chrome up top, hard ano’d on bottom. You must match your kingpins accordingly as well obviously..

These take the place of the M3x4 set screws the OG 2.0 was outfitted with. I take it a step further, and increase the length of the M3 button heads from 5mm, to 6mm so that they actually contact the kingpins, and outer control arm fasteners.

Chrome to chromie-homie..

Hard ano’d, to well-hard ano’d..

Super bueno. Coming along..

 

[Littlemotor]

Fudgesicles and wombats for Jesus..

These are actually the same bushings the OG 2.0 used for the inners. They took it a step further with the deuce.deuce, and bored the outers to accept them as well. Innovation. I love Tekno for this reason..

Much more effective contact as well as reduced wear.

A couple more of these little dudes..

Outer control arm fasteners in.. Obviously be sure to orientate the flat to the set screw bore..

Like so-then locker on down for the duration..

Moarrrrrr paaaahts…

I cannot count how many of these I’ve done in my life, and it ALWAYS helps to lay them out just like this.. STILL very easy to get turned around, and I see people butch them all the damned time..

Ream them a skoach for an easier start.. Tekno composites are some of the very best IMO, and freakin HARD. This helps like you would not believe..

Now… One-mo-again… NOT this side. No ring.

THIS is the side ya want..

Loader on up..

And POP.

 

[Littlemotor]

A QUALITY rod end/shock multi-tool is an absolute MUST imo.. I used to do all my rod ends with an old baby spoon, and a block of delrin with a shallow bore machined into it.. . These things ain’t cheap, but I sure as shiit was lol… I then bought a $15 multi-tool, and was less than impressed. The first time I used a buddy’s are track-I was DUMBFOUNDED.. this Tekno unit could’ve been 70 freakin dollhairs, and I’d have snatched it up.. WELL worth it, and it’ll last your lifetime.

Lay em all back out.. it’s worth it-I’m tellin’ ya..

And Donezo..

Well, back to the LHS parts wall.. The Tony’s kits DO include some high quality SS M3 washers, and they are more resistant to the elements, but I almost always go with the Tekno black pieces.. Because I worship the devil.. Noooooo, they’re better looking, and I’ve never had any issue with them rusting.. I also clean up my vehicles after running, and get after them with Maxima SC1 as every off-road guy should do with his junk..

Gonna end up taking almost two full bags by the time this thing is wrapped up..

FINALLY, this front clip can stop looking so sorry… Freakin thing reminds me of Eyore from Winnie the Pooh, in that last piktar of it-I swear.. Just sad.. “ohhhhhh, botherrr…”..

I use the Tekno steel M3 serrated Nyloc’s here for good measure. They see far too much abuse for any blingtastical ano’d aluminum jobbers IMO.. Never had one fail..

Inner..

Outer..

Finger tight, then lock em both down..

Soooooo much less sad now..

Now what….

 

[Doom!]

I'm really trying to enjoy this build, but it's like you just don't care anymore, I really thought you would take the time to sand down all the ejector pin marks in the plastic, but I guess I was just expecting to much.

Killer build ya big stud!

 

[Littlemotor]

Screws… Moar screws.. to take care of something Tekno does that just looks like torn colon imo.. We will get to it here after this assembly..

Let’s get this servo saver together.. Now Tekno DOES include a “lockout”, but I give a shiit about my $200 servo’s, and have NEVER seen a problem from using a proper servo saver. Tekno is ALSO the only manufacturer I’ve ever NOT run an aluminum servo saver steering arm. Never had a failure-yes; their composites are THAT GOOD. Literally the first upgrade for any other 1/8 off-road kit, PERIOD imo..

Don’t rely on the o-ring to keep this from moving.. ALWAYS threadlocker.

I prefer to put it roughly where the threads are gonna be..

I always get the adjuster nuts started with my fingers.. Don’t wanna cross-thread this..

Like so..

Another one for Tekno.. Brilliant to machine 17mm flats, so that you can simply use a wheel nut wrench to adjust..

“All the way down, then back off (2) full turns” is what Tekno wants. I back it off 1.5..

Rack ‘em up!!!

Obviously.. The new kits utilize composite rack bushings.. I ALWAYS upgrade to the OG 2.0 aluminum units. Hence the threadlocker..

 

[Littlemotor]

The rack bushing isn’t seen in this piktar, but it’s what the M3 buttonhead is threading into. The bushing passes through the bellcrank bearings.

Here he is… Such a cute little guy!

Finally getting some steering links and inner/outer tie-rods happnin’..

THIS is how LITTLEMOTOR does it… I will touch on this again after it’s installed..

Composite steering top plate, and front body mount..

Yeah-nah… Don’t be a damned bogan, and do it this way.. rotate that mount 180deg.. Good on ya, mate..

Still kinda Eyore(ish) with the floppy spindles I must say-now that I’m thinkin’ about it..

Finally about to make some big moves..

I’m old. “This aggression will not stand, man!!”.. We’ll try the reamer first to take some of the material away from the equation..

Welp, looks like not much result. Onto the drillerator.. Just trying to ease the chance of me making a mess when I get to the X-acto.. Or losing a digit or three..

Gonna be smart about it anyhow..

These are WELL worth the extra loot btw.. Last SO much longer.. Price per blade isn’t awful when ya buy bulk either..

Much more betta.. Like I said; I’m old. I still DO run the grommets, so no need for locator tabs to punch the grommets up even higher.. It’s the little things..

 

[Littlemotor]

She had a good run for sure…

Anywho… onto the NitroPro FKN-EPIC ONE servo… It’s one baaaaad mofo, and with a unlimited LIFETIME warranty..

Rubbery grommetoidz in place..

Tony’s fasteners, and some well sorted countersunk washer to spread the load, whilst looking all Superfly-from both Ultimate Racing (Rojo), as well as Tekno RC (natural).. This is gonna break up the red some, and do a stellar job of tying the entire buggy together aesthetically IMO..

Such a unit..

Oh snaaaaap!!! Loosened the bumper screw that passes through the A-block to allow the front clip to key in to the chassis..

M3’s first.. Don’t run ‘em all the way down. Wanna be able to align the rest of the fasteners without any fuss.

Like so… The M4x20’s, and M4x15’s.. Respectively..

Lock ‘em all down after tightening up the front bumper M3 button head.

Next up, we need some keyed in steering post action for the rack assembly.. Threadlocker here FOR SURE.

Bellisimo… I don’t have a clue what that means, but it sure sounds legit..

First the steering servo stand assembly/front chassis brace..

Tony’s M3’s in first.. Leave ‘em loose.

Then the M4’s..

 

[Littlemotor]

Lock ‘em down now that they’re all (4) in.

This is gonna look good..

This dude is ready to rock, so let’s not hold up the show any longer..

Like a gllllllllove.. (in my best Ace Ventura voice”…

So here’s what I touched on earlier about changing something Tekno does that I just think looks like pure ass… Should’ve never even made it to print imo.. Regardless, I’m not above changing retarded shiit, as y’all have likely figured out by now..

Nuts on top? And right where the body needs extra clearance as it is?? Psh… Nosir. Not this good ol’ boy… Not today.. THIS is how it’s done, Tekno… I love you guys, and nobody’s perfect, but it’s been this way in the past THREE chassis’ now… “Laces OUT!!!”..

Alriiiight, alriiiiiiiiiight, I’ll stop blowing into my own sail over here.. Onto the Ackerman plate connections..

Two washers for my bumpsteer..

Sorry for the crap piktars here-it was later than hell, and I was slippin’….into a damned coma..

Finally the steering top plate.. Got that front body mount flipped around 180 too.. freakin’ iiiiiidiot..

Threadlocker ONLY onto the upper steering post M4’s..

-Also don’t go apeshiit He-Man on the M4 for the front chassis brace.. Just snug it up.

 

[Doom!]

Gotta love the running commentary!

 

[Littlemotor]

Good dealio.

Well we haven’t had any major hiccups for a hot minute… -onto the next pile..

Seems we’ve been here before..

Much better. I can sleep tonight now..

Doing the Klinik RC carbon fiber, switch eliminator specifically designed for the Tekno nitro 2.2 vehicles..

You need to hog out the center of the OEM switch plate so that the back side of the eliminator can pass through it. It’ll be sandwiched between the Klinik RC carbon fiber plate, and the OEM switch box-so the couple wear marks from normal use will be hidden.

However….. Didn’t I just say we had been smooooooove sailin’ for a hot minute?

This is my 2.2 nitro buggy…

This is my boy’s.. the switch plate has been either snapped off, or modified-either way the wire run will be exposed, and ya know I can’t stomach that..

So while I wait to hear back from dudeman, I’m moving onto pittley… Pittly? Pittuly?? Wtf.. Mundayne stuff to not waste any more time than I have to.. JTP version of the 1Army mount that I use exclusively on all my own vehicles.. Jared’s are all natural finish, while I prefer the black Ano’d OG 1Army units. We will make it work with his scheme though-I promise.. even the Rojo…

It’s definitely still a pimpin’ piece none the less..

Trust the process…

 

[Littlemotor]

Blong…. Whatever that means..

Swapped in Rojo M4 countersunks from Ultimate Racing via Brent @ Beach RC, as his factory units were obviously smoked.. This will actually come back to bite me in my lily white Irish ass..

More bs while I wait on my boy to get back with me regarding the switch plate nonsense.. JConcepts molded plastic front scoop..

Well that was ridiculously easy.. and now hems got a spare as well. I cannot attest to the much touted durability of these, but I don’t see any obvious issues.. I do like my RaceCraft USA, and 1Army jobbers though..

This thing is starting to actually win me over..

Moarrrrrrrrrrr simple crap.. Wasn’t GONNA install this as they are complete garbage imo, but SOMEthing is better than nothing on race day, and if he’s got his hands on the Proper titanium units from Tekno Ti by then, he can obviously change this out.

Ugggggh… I can literally see it all folded up and half ripped out in my head already-just like every one I’ve ever seen on a vehicle after being driven for a weekend.. And don’t even get me started on the fronts..

Suuuuuuuuhweeeet… We have confirmation. Robbed more parts from my new truggy kit. Added it to the “LHS Reimbursement List”..

So I’m glad I got those locators off the part we aren’t gonna use now.. Just gonna give him everything that comes in the bag from Tekno RC.. So I’ll modify the new one now.

I’m not gonna overthink this like I usually would, not try to invent the wheel. Just need to hog out the switchplate so that the switch eliminator XT60 can pass through it. Doesn’t need to win any precision modificatin’ award-just not look like homemade shoes..

This dude can goto the trash-ola now.. Good riddance..

One slight mess, and about 15min later…

Good enough for gubment work..

 

[Littlemotor]

All it needs to do.. well-and hide the wire management run.. -and not fail like literally every switch out there is known to do…

Modificatin’ completed.

Yessir. I digs it. Muy superbuenoriffic..

Onto the throttle/brake duties.. This will be handled by another NitroPro heavyweight, and one of my favorites; the FKN-500Pro-2. no sense making y'all watch me prep it with grommets and hardware-ya saw the steering servo install in a previous episode..

Brand spankin’ new Rx box, and Tony’s hardware.. MAN, this dude gets parts here with a quickness I tell ya!

Good for now-we will circle back to this for further attention later on..

Hellyes..

New stone-guards, and battery box assembly.. Moarrrrr 12.9’s from Tony..

 

[Littlemotor]

Pimpin’…

More aero/downforce goodies from JConcepts… Razor wing in black.. Because Raiders fam…

Seriously… bleh.. whatever..

I always bust out the calipers here..

Mark ‘em!

Check your location AFTER that first indentation… My eyes are NOT what they used to be, and a hair off translates into a WILDLY crooked wing.. Ask me how I know..

Exactly what I was looking for..

The photo is deceiving-the J&T billet wing button flattened it right out..

Now we have a freakin’ PARTY.

First things first-clutch. low inertia 3-show deal from the guys over at RC-project, in Italy..

Would’ve been cool AF had they thought to include clutch bearings.. Must’ve got lost in translation.. I might just no a guy with some bearings on hand tho.. Add ‘em to the list-good clutch bearings ain’t cheap.

Starting the mock-up process to get the flywheel where I want in the chassis, as well as the correct shim stack for the bell spacing off the flywheel, and the clutch bearings..

 

[Littlemotor]

Definitely wanna take your time here. If it’s not right; it’s gonna ruin your fun, and your stuff. Period.

Doing two things here. The bearings don’t much matter yet-as I need to verify what I need to do to get the flywheel in the right spot, and the bell in good shape on the spur.. I’ll worry about the OUTER bearing shims after that.

Note-no shoes needed for this.

Welp-somehow I didn’t manage to get a piktar of the bell/spur engagement, but it wasn’t what I need. Disassemble, and install the collet washer. Be sure to pull on your crankshaft as you install your collet, and clutch nut. That needs to be all the way forward, or you’ll ruin engine internals, as well as cause unnecessary wear to your high dollar backplate..

Again-no shirt, no shoes; no problem.

Now we’re cookin’ with gas.. Primo.

So 1Army supplies you with M3x15 12.9 screws, about 196 baby steel flat washers, and (8) super swanky itty-bitty split washers. My issue with them is that I have only ever seen ONE engine not allow the 15mm screws to contact the lower engine mount face when tightened down.. They recommend you stack MORE flat washers under the existing (2) on each screw if this happens.. Yeah-nah.. Not me, playa.. That’s hack poop 100%, and not my speed. I swap them over to Tony’s M3x14, and have had room to spare every time.

I can kinda understand the 15mm fasteners to allow for a variety of engine case boss thicknesses (still disagree eleventybillion% on stacked washers), but THIS is bs-straight up.. The top blocks to lower mount dimensions do NOT vary… Yet-they provide the exact same M3x15 SHCS’s for this as well. They absolutely DO contact the lower mount face too.. Ugggggh.. There are a LOT of people whom aren’t as diligent as myself that this will absolutely result in broken parts because of.. Obviously I swapped them over to 14mm units.. No problem now.

YES.

Now we can get back to the motor as I’ve got the mount debacle remedied. Lock town the flywheel nut. I had it “snug”, but still pulled on the crankshaft to verify no movement prior to cinching the steel collet over the DLC crankshaft.. As tight as your forearms can muster..

No damage to the aluminum flywheel.. Uppity folks use speshul soft jaw Chan-nel-lock’s here, but I’m just a dumb caveman..

I went with a 0.5mm shim over the flywheel nut for mock-up, but that changes substantially after locking it down against the flywheel. My experience tells me that 0.4mm will put the bell where I want it in relationship to the pins (I’m in no danger of the bell contacting the flywheel face itself), while providing me with an acceptable shim-stack thickness over the OUTER bearing before the clutch retaining screw..

From mock-up..

 

[Warby]

Definitely wanna take your time here. If it’s not right; it’s gonna ruin your fun, and your stuff. Period.

OMG, he's slowing down.

 

[Littlemotor]

I’ve got 0.2mm shims on hand, so I’ll simply verify thickness, and off they look good-then I’ll run (2).

Looks good.

Double ‘em up..

And I’m thinkin’ I’m in business.. The outer shim stack will tell the story.. I prefer not to be over (2) shims if I can help it.

Put those shoes on before ya go outside kiddo’s!

-aaaaaand (2) 0.2mm shims… Threadlocker for the AVID RC Titanium clutch retaining screw.. AFTER a dry run to verify your end play…

Shims were correct! Smear the threads, and lock her down..

Engine mount screws…

Damn good looking motor for this bastard..

Finally home..

Install a header with a proper RC header hook tool, and you’ll never use anything else again… -or scratch another header.. stretch the piss out of a brand new spring.. put 17 tiny (but DEEEEP ) holes in your finger in 6min… You get the idea.. This Arrowmax unit was only $13 from Amain when I copped it on a whim..

That’s gonna be one SERIOUSLY rockin’ combo..

This is Dani Choi with the same combo in his new K-car MP11… You cannot tell me this thing isn’t absolutely NASTY… Yeah-it’s a small track; just listen to this thing.. It’s less than 2.5min long..

I have an insanely modified version of this combo, and Ultimate Racing 2141 pipe going in my other nitro truggy build that’s coming up next on the ol’ bench… It’s gonna be LUDICROUS.

 

[TeknoJ]

Great work as usual. That motor looks gorgeous.

 

[Littlemotor]

Boogerz. All I got after this 3.5hr thread update… The forum work from my freakin PHONE takes longer than the actual work does, I swear..

I accidentally snuck the J&T stung pipe mount, and hanger boss in before I managed to take any more photos.. Sue me lolz..

 

[Littlemotor]

I'm really trying to enjoy this build, but it's like you just don't care anymore, I really thought you would take the time to sand down all the ejector pin marks in the plastic, but I guess I was just expecting to much.

Killer build ya big stud!

I’m getting slack in my old age..

I appreciate it killa! Glad you’re enjoying the process!

 

[TeknoJ]

I’ve got 0.2mm shims on hand, so I’ll simply verify thickness, and off they look good-then I’ll run (2).

Looks good.

View attachment 258459

Double ‘em up..

View attachment 258460

And I’m thinkin’ I’m in business.. The putter shim stack will tell the story.. I prefer not to be over (2) shims if I can help it.

View attachment 258461

Put those shoes on before ya go outside kiddo’s!

View attachment 258462

-aaaaaand (2) 0.2mm shims… Threadlocker for the AVID RC Titanium clutch retaining screw.. AFTER a dry run to verify your end play…

View attachment 258463

Shims were correct! Smear the threads, and lock her down..

View attachment 258464

Engine mount screws…

View attachment 258465

Damn good looking motor for this bastard..

View attachment 258466View attachment 258467

Finally home..

View attachment 258468

Install a header with a proper RC header hook tool, and you’ll never use anything else again… -or scratch another header.. stretch the piss out of a brand new spring.. put 17 tiny (but DEEEEP ) holes in your finger in 6min… You get the idea.. This Arrowmax unit was only $13 from Amain when I copped it in a whim..

View attachment 258469View attachment 258470View attachment 258471View attachment 258472View attachment 258473

That’s gonna be one SERIOUSLY rockin’ combo..

This is Dani Choi with the same combo in his new K-car MP11… You cannot tell me this thing isn’t absolutely NASTY… Yeah-it’s a small track; just listen to this thing.. It’s less than 2.5min long..

I have an insanely modified version of this combo, and Ultimate Racing 2141 pipe going in my other nitro truggy build that’s coming up next on the ol’ bench… It’s gonna be LUDICROUS.

That thing is a screamer!
I still have some holes in my thumb from months ago!