2mm grub screw removal

[rctimewaster]

i got new shafts and i need to remove at one end a 20mm pin and replace it with a 23mm pin to fit the wheel cup.
i tried heating it but the hex key twists when attempting to remove it maybe using a socket hex key would remove it.
the 2mm grub screw is too tight that's the problem it just wants to strip.

 

[WickedFog]

When dealing with small set screws it is very wise to use quality tools. A lot of people in the RC hobby love their MIP drivers. They are pricey, but I have never heard one complaint about them. I use these Dynamite ones. My only complaint with them is they are sometimes a bit too short.

If you have managed to mangle the set screw beyond any hex bit getting it out, you can try forcing a torx bit into the set screw. A lot of times that will get a good bite in the hex and allow you to get the set screw out.

Thread 'Tips and Tools for Removing Stubborn Fasteners' https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/tips-and-tools-for-removing-stubborn-fasteners.131281/

 

[rctimewaster]

Thanks WickedFog the grub screw is not mangled i order two Japanese made 2mm hex bits it should get them out.
using a normal hex key is not good enough it just flexes with tight grub screws.

 

[tntpoof]

I would use a solder iron 1st then try a hex bit..heat it up then out with hex

 

[rctimewaster]

I would use a solder iron 1st then try a hex bit..heat it up then out with hex

i used a gas lighter it got hot after a few minutes but the hex key i have is really only for easy removed screws that's why i'm not using it and bought the bits.
i'm not sure if a propane solder iron is needed to get it hotter it did discolor with a gas lighter i just need to wait for the bits to arrive to take them off.

 

[Jerold]

Like @WickedFog said I can't stress enough to use good tools. I primarily use Wera and Wiha hexes, but Dyanmite, Pro-tek, MIP, Bondus and others are all good brands. If you get any tool and they are loose, bent or deformed send them back. Good tools save you time, bad tools cause you grief. You really only need a few sizes. I got my Wera tools from McMasters and the two primary sizes (2,2.5mm) are about $11 total. If you throw 2 common ones in the others you talking about $20 +tax and shipping.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/hex-drivers/ultra-grip-screwdrivers-9/

These are Wiha tools. The grip is smaller and you won't get the same torque from them but they definetly live up to "precise".

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/hex-drivers/precise-control-screwdriver-sets/

Don't use ball end tools for super tight screws there is less surface area (higher pressure) and it's more likely to strip.
Don't use power tools. You need to feel the metal deform while you strip it out. It makes it much more satisfying while you spend the next 4 hours disassembling your rig for one stupid screw.

For anything that doesn't come right out (and is in metal) I use a mini-torch. You don't have to kill it, just 10-15 sec at a time, try it again, Repeat until the thread lock or gunk clears up.

https://www.harborfreight.com/butan...=362&msclkid=cbc29690a3c012844a9ff3e323eee781

The soldering iron is extremely useful for parts in or around plastic, because you can control the heat more.

Worst comes to worst you can drill the head out. Then you might be able to grab the end of it with some Vise Grips. If not you'll need to order some new parts.

 

[rctimewaster]

i do need to get a round handle hex key set it makes work easier on rc and like you pointed out it's mainly the 1.5-3mm that's needed.
i do have some T handle hexes it makes the job easier in most cases compared to a small key.