V for Vendetta build

[bozo]

I got my Arrma Vendetta last week but have not had a chance to run it yet except in the driveway. Everything seems to be working as designed, but I'll know more when I get it out in a big parking lot later this week.
In the meantime, I decided to address a couple of issues for ease of use and future options.
First off, replaced the humongous body clips with some thinner ones. Much easier to work with.
Next was the 14mm hex wheel issue. Not a big selection of 14mm wheels available, so conversion to 12mm or 17mm seemed like a good plan. I went the 12mm route because I already have a few sets of 85mm road wheels from my WLtoys 124019 "Purple Haze" build to play with.
Ordered a set of Arrma 12mm hexes P/N AR310816 that worked perfectly. The 12mms seem like a better casting and are more refined and not as blobby as the 14mms. Biggest difference is the pin length, but the Arrma 12mms come with the proper size pins.

After installing the 12mms, I test fit a couple of sets of 85mm tires with different offsets I had laying around.

Tire on left is part of a staggered set from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZTG9WXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
that are 85mm with fronts 32mm wide and rears 38mm wide with 0 offset.
Tire on right from ebay is the same diameter and width but with a -2mm offset.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154939853890
Both of these sets are commonly available and have the same tire but with different offset rims. Both sets clear the body (the -2mms are really tight).
The 0 offsets:

The -2mm offsets:

I can work with these, we'll see how they perform.
Next was to get more adjustment in the body posts. The included ones have almost no adjustment travel, so I went with Arrma body posts for the Big Rock P/N AR320357.
Good selection of different length posts for future body swaps and clearance if I go with 17mm hex wheels in the future.
Here's the stance with the new body posts set one hole above factory front and rear and the 0mm offset wheels..

Here's an alternate body that I'm going to start working on. It's a Bittydesign ZL-21 drag body that is 25mm wider than the stock body giving a lot more wheel options.

 

[luke66]

Lookin good!

 

[bozo]

Been having some fun this week fussing around with the stock body.
The original green stickers were not adhering very well and the color looked sort of cheap, so off they went to be replaced by some 4mm wide reflective tape.
The blue/green contrast was a good combo, so I used green reflective. Added some red reflective in the rear and a few other spots.
For lighting I used COB 2mm light strips for the headlights (white) fin light (blue) and taillights (red), Green underbody lighting is a pair of cheap Amazon strips. All lighting is mounted on the body, tied together and powered by the RX. Because the TX is only 3 channel, I can't control the lights remotely so I'll add an on/off switch somewhere inconspicuously on the body.
I'm going to put the Bittydesign body on ice for a while and run the stock body for now.
Did some work on the chassis, discovered that the front diff was really stiff and binding and the rear wasn't much better. Research on the tubes showed this was a common problem, and the solution I used was this:

Kinda fussy, but with repeated test fits they both spin freely with no binding or slop. Decided for now to put the stock 14mm hexes and wheels back on so I can paint and glue the 12mm wheels.
Took it out last evening for it's first real test run. Against my better judgement, I just went out to the street in front of the house. The curbs on this street are my nemesis, having eaten numerous other RC's causing carnage, wailing and gnashing of the teeth.
Calibrated all the electronics per spec with AVC at 20% and running 2s, I started off at 50% and made a few runs. Straight an an arrow! Bumped it up to 75% same deal. 100% just as straight but I had to be more careful giving it the beans on launch or it would spin out. Ran thru the rest of the battery pack with speed runs, no problem with reaching max velocity, even on my short street. This thing really gets up to speed quickly!
Checked temps, motor was 140 and ESC was 130. All things considered, I'm really pleased with this car- my first Arrma and definitely not my last.
More wheel time will let me know what can be improved.
Here's the lighting pics, It's hard to get a good pic 'cuz those COBs are really bright! Looks much more balanced in person.

Lookin good!

Am I the only one who crashes into everything? And I do mean EVERYTHING.
No, you're not. I have curbs in front of my house that look like the walls after a NASCAR race

 

[luke66]

Been having some fun this week fussing around with the stock body.
The original green stickers were not adhering very well and the color looked sort of cheap, so off they went to be replaced by some 4mm wide reflective tape.
The blue/green contrast was a good combo, so I used green reflective. Added some red reflective in the rear and a few other spots.
For lighting I used COB 2mm light strips for the headlights (white) fin light (blue) and taillights (red), Green underbody lighting is a pair of cheap Amazon strips. All lighting is mounted on the body, tied together and powered by the RX. Because the TX is only 3 channel, I can't control the lights remotely so I'll add an on/off switch somewhere inconspicuously on the body.
I'm going to put the Bittydesign body on ice for a while and run the stock body for now.
Did some work on the chassis, discovered that the front diff was really stiff and binding and the rear wasn't much better. Research on the tubes showed this was a common problem, and the solution I used was this:

Kinda fussy, but with repeated test fits they both spin freely with no binding or slop. Decided for now to put the stock 14mm hexes and wheels back on so I can paint and glue the 12mm wheels.
Took it out last evening for it's first real test run. Against my better judgement, I just went out to the street in front of the house. The curbs on this street are my nemesis, having eaten numerous other RC's causing carnage, wailing and gnashing of the teeth.
Calibrated all the electronics per spec with AVC at 20% and running 2s, I started off at 50% and made a few runs. Straight an an arrow! Bumped it up to 75% same deal. 100% just as straight but I had to be more careful giving it the beans on launch or it would spin out. Ran thru the rest of the battery pack with speed runs, no problem with reaching max velocity, even on my short street. This thing really gets up to speed quickly!
Checked temps, motor was 140 and ESC was 130. All things considered, I'm really pleased with this car- my first Arrma and definitely not my last.
More wheel time will let me know what can be improved.
Here's the lighting pics, It's hard to get a good pic 'cuz those COBs are really bright! Looks much more balanced in person.
View attachment 169956
View attachment 169957
View attachment 169958View attachment 169959

Am I the only one who crashes into everything? And I do mean EVERYTHING.
No, you're not. I have curbs in front of my house that look like the walls after a NASCAR race

That’s good to know lol

 

[bozo]

Not much progress this week, but I got a few things accomplished.
Put some fuel tube limiters on the shocks to stop the chassis from bottoming out and screwed the lower shock mounts on only 1/2 way. Plenty of thread to do so and I gained about 3mm more ground clearance, allowing me to lower the body back to the original mounting holes. I may look into some 80mm shocks later on.
Added some side skirts made from 1/8" PVC with a rubber edge trim. I'll put some Velcro on later to keep the body sides from flapping. I'm currently measuring up for a front splitter and rear side splitters from the same material.

Decided to add more "bling" to the body, as if it isn't fugly enough...
I didn't like the fake "reflections" on the windows, so I cut the glass part of the stickers out and replaced them with some black holographic vinyl film. Much better and really sets off the colors. I still have to dress up the body lighting wiring, it's kind of a mess now...

 

[luke66]

I've been dieing to see that ZL21 body...,.........

 

[bozo]

I've been dieing to see that ZL21 body...,.........

I'm going to have to rethink the front body mount posts. That body has some humps right where either of the front posts go. Have to find a way to widen the front post span. I'm wondering if any other 3s vehicles have different widths of front posts?

 

[RustyUs]

Following your progress.

When the Vendetta arrived, I went against everything I was told and everything I tell people about RTRs... I slapped a battery pack in; checked the steering; check the wheel nuts, and just gave it WOT! I've wanted an on-road RC for a long time. This will probably be the only RTR RC that I'll have bought. For $200, I didn't care if the Vendetta came back to me limping on two tires, missing gears, and whatnot.

I only got about 5 packs through the thing. I guess it's time to check the internals.

Thanks for posting that video.

 

[luke66]

are your posts all the way out? if you have the stock position on you should be able to widen them a little bit.

 

[bozo]

Thanks for posting that video.

Diff binding really caused a lot of drag on the drivetrain. After rework it's much better. With the driveshaft and power module removed she rolls effortlessly.

are your posts all the way out? if you have the stock position on you should be able to widen them a little bit.

I've tried both front post positions, neither really works. In this pic I've circled where the posts would be when the wheels are lined up with the wheel wells.

You can see that either position is not optimal. I'm stumped, really want to use this body ($$$) but until I can figure out how to get a 5.5"-6" span between posts I'll just run with the stock body. Does any other variant of the 3s stable use wider front post mounts?
I did find these motor supports on ebay, 3D printed and fit perfectly.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325191868376
Maybe this will help in the well known motor plate bending.

 

[luke66]

i actually printed some of those myself (found the file) . i wasn't able to use them on my typhon. i havent tried on my 'detta though.

i think you should use the inside post position and just get it over with. i really want to see what the car looks like with a drag car body.

 

[bozo]

i think you should use the inside post position and just get it over with. i really want to see what the car looks like with a drag car body.

I may have to do that but hopefully I'll come up with some way to move the posts outwards.

 

[9x19]

Get another set of posts, drill thru where the screw for the body-post plate is, attach a horizontal extension (square bar, or round) between the two posts, one goes in the factory mount, the other extends out however far you need... imagine: post[--------]post

 

[bozo]

Get another set of posts, drill thru where the screw for the body-post plate is, attach a horizontal extension (square bar, or round) between the two posts, one goes in the factory mount, the other extends out however far you need... imagine: post[--------]post

Good idea!
I'll start mocking it up-since I'm moving them I'll pick the spot that provides the most stability.

i actually printed some of those myself (found the file) . i wasn't able to use them on my typhon. i havent tried on my 'detta though.

I bought two, on the 'detta it fit fine but on the Typhon I had to sand off the "ARRMA" insignias on the driveshaft. Close, but clears.

 

[turbo27]

One sweet Detta.

 

[luke66]

we need an update!

 

[bozo]

I've been dieing to see that ZL21 body...,.........

I've decided for now to put that body "on ice" until I figure out a way to go postless mounting. No ugly body holes.
The original body grew on me. After the tweaks and lighting it's now got some bling.
Next is the front splitter and (possibly) the 17mm conversion with bigger wheels.
Got 48 mph on the street in front of the house (didn't hit anything!) 2s stock everything. Lot more left in it, just ran out of room.
Been concentrating on my 3s mashup build (Eye of the Tiger), I'll update that thread soon.
Here's the 3s stable (so far... I have a Gorgon RTA arriving Tues.).