3 shoe clutch and flywheel for VX .18

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Could try buku
https://www.bukupower.com/ClutchTraxxas.aspx

Pricey, but people that have them swear by them.

Or M2C
http://www.m2cracing.com/category.sc;jsessionid=?categoryId=2

OR STRC
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSNT&P=7

They are listed for traxxas, but they are basically 3-shoe 1/10 scale clutch systems.

If you want to gear for high speed, going with alloy would be something you should consider. Higher gearing stresses a clutch quite a bit. Aluminum shoes can take a bit more punishment.

That said, I'm running a set of dynamite traxxas max-life shoes on my 21TM revo and it seems to be working well so far. It's a 2 shoe clutch, but has held up for quite a while without any hassle. Gets much better bite off the line. Should work on pretty much any 1/10 2-pin setup:
https://www.rcplanet.com/Dynamite_C...dynp5184.htm?gclid=CJWRipSS9tMCFQqUaQodnTkEMQ

I can't imagine your straining your 2-shoe setup in an on-road car any more than I am in a offroad 4x4. Prior to the dynamite install, I was having pretty severe slippage issues that was boiling the oil right out of my bearings and deforming the clutch spring. Now I just change bearings every gallon or so and take the burrs off the shoes edges so they don't hangup on the flywheel or bell. I only look at it when I take the engine out, which is rare.
 
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I just wanted to show what we were talking about here. The shell is a 2000 Civic hatchback that's currently being painted purple and will have gold sponsor stickers down the door areas. Also my camera sucks.
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And yes, she's due for a new set of wheels and tires and a new chassis.
 
Those are all good sugestions that Olds97 put out ,I almost suggested traxxas clutches ,but was
not sure on the flywheel itself ,the 36mm one looks like it may fit with chassy clearance where the M2c is
listed!..

That's good info to know ,I might check those out for my 12 & 18 size engines!..:thumbs-up:
 
Could try buku
https://www.bukupower.com/ClutchTraxxas.aspx

Pricey, but people that have them swear by them.

Or M2C
http://www.m2cracing.com/category.sc;jsessionid=?categoryId=2

OR STRC
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSNT&P=7

They are listed for traxxas, but they are basically 3-shoe 1/10 scale clutch systems.

If you want to gear for high speed, going with alloy would be something you should consider. Higher gearing stresses a clutch quite a bit. Aluminum shoes can take a bit more punishment.

That said, I'm running a set of dynamite traxxas max-life shoes on my 21TM revo and it seems to be working well so far. It's a 2 shoe clutch, but has held up for quite a while without any hassle. Gets much better bite off the line. Should work on pretty much any 1/10 2-pin setup:
https://www.rcplanet.com/Dynamite_C...dynp5184.htm?gclid=CJWRipSS9tMCFQqUaQodnTkEMQ

I can't imagine your straining your 2-shoe setup in an on-road car any more than I am in a offroad 4x4. Prior to the dynamite install, I was having pretty severe slippage issues that was boiling the oil right out of my bearings and deforming the clutch spring. Now I just change bearings every gallon or so and take the burrs off the shoes edges so they don't hangup on the flywheel or bell. I only look at it when I take the engine out, which is rare.
Thanks for this olds. I'm always up for finding new parts that could work on my car. Like a said before. If you don't know where you're looking it's like finding a nitro needle in an electric haystack.
 
I thought that ad said the clutch was for a 1/10 scale. Lol! It's no wonder I don't buy much from outside the US. I have trouble following the instructions when they say "insert slot to bolt c with the inches to left near twice". Never mind not being able to figure out what they are selling in the first place. :hehe:
 
Never mind. I feel stupid for even admitting this but I've found my issue. This is a photo of the flywheel/clutch assembly of my VX .18. Note the two washers. I only have one. I'm missing the washer for the backside of the clutch bell. Thus, the shoes were ever so lightly touching the back of the bell causing me to snap springs more often than I filled the tank. I feel so dumb yet so relieved. View attachment 19527

Looking at your flywheel ,it looks like the collet is shot ,so that maybe a problem issue there!
It will get to where it wont tighten an start slipping ,so a new clutch set up is a must any ways!
Also ,how is your clutch bell bearings ,are they still good?
 
Looking at your flywheel ,it looks like the collet is shot ,so that maybe a problem issue there!
It will get to where it wont tighten an start slipping ,so a new clutch set up is a must any ways!
Also ,how is your clutch bell bearings ,are they still good?
Yep. Both bearings are still great. Somehow after the incident I put them through. But. I may throw the new bearings that come with the kit I ordered into it anyway. Get a fresh start all the way around.

Looking at your flywheel ,it looks like the collet is shot ,so that maybe a problem issue there!
It will get to where it wont tighten an start slipping ,so a new clutch set up is a must any ways!
Also ,how is your clutch bell bearings ,are they still good?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Li...dcat-Racing-Lightning-STR-94102-/272528532840

This is the flywheel I have right now. The one in the photo from the kit is the original style that came on the car with the VX .16
 
Looking at your flywheel ,it looks like the collet is shot ,so that maybe a problem issue there!
It will get to where it wont tighten an start slipping ,so a new clutch set up is a must any ways!
Also ,how is your clutch bell bearings ,are they still good?

Ok ,so just recapping on your post ,normally ,clutch shoes don't just wear out ,there is reason why they do no matter what material their made of...
I actually run 2 aluminum shoes with 1 carbon as I run mostly 3 shoe clutches!

You don't have to pay that much for a clutch if you buy separate stuff ,the key is to get the new collet with 3 pin
flywheel ...after that ,shoes are a dime a dozen!...:p
 
Ok ,so just recapping on your post ,normally ,clutch shoes don't just wear out ,there is reason why they do no matter what material their made of...
I actually run 2 aluminum shoes with 1 carbon as I run mostly 3 shoe clutches!

You don't have to pay that much for a clutch if you buy separate stuff ,the key is to get the new collet with 3 pin
flywheel ...after that ,shoes are a dime a dozen!...:p
I had aluminum shoes in it but the sides of the shoes got messed up from my mistake so I'm going to put stock shoes back into it and take a dremel to the aluminum shoes and smooth them back out and see if they are still usable. Then go from there. I just want to get it running asap and I'm pretty sure when that whole new kit gets here I'll be able to fix my issue with that one missing washer.

Thank you for your help through this. Same goes to everyone else who posted. Thank you so much for the advice and links.
 
Ok, I wasn't cracking up... Well, at least this isn't evidence of it! :hehe:

https://www.google.com/search?q=hon...d=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=XTG1HiW5TEeA0M:

This ad does list the cd3 clutch as a 1/10 scale clutch.
I would definitely install the new bearings (as long as they are quality bearings). They aren't expensive and as you say, better to start fresh all the way around.

I'm not trying to disapprove any one try to give advice on this ,we are all trying to help ,all of us gave great advice thus this far!...:thumbs-up:

But ,also ,if the flywheel & collet does not seat an tighten ,it could also wreak havoc on shoes!
I did notice those spots on the flywheel were it was kind of buggered up!...:cool:
 
Oh, no doubt.... If the collet is junk, he could put on the best clutch in the world with no improvement. I just wanted to be sure I was saying that IF he wanted to use that clutch, it was in fact a 1/10 scale and COULD be used... Replace ALL broken parts FIRST... Whether it be while doing an upgrade or simply repairing.
 
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Ok. So my package just arrived and I'm putting everything together. The washer that was missing IS the same size as the first bearing. When I tighten the screw down that holds the clutch bell on it suddenly does not want to rotate and acts as if it is a single piece with the flywheel. But this is the Redcat flywheel/clutch kit. In case I'm being stupid I have everything laid out in the photo to make sure I have everything in order. Again my camera is rubbish I know.
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You may have to get a clutch shim kit!
A kit with different thin washers helps space the bell off the clutch nut & flywheel in
which helps reduce friction ,like a thrust washer!
You should only need the tiny washer on the screw sense the bell has a lip inside
that the bearings seat to ,so it should tighten up as long as the tiny washer catches
the very inside of the bearing!

I use shims on all of my clutches!...:cool:
 
You may have to get a clutch shim kit!
A kit with different thin washers helps space the bell off the clutch nut & flywheel in
which helps reduce friction ,like a thrust washer!
You should only need the tiny washer on the screw sense the bell has a lip inside
that the bearings seat to ,so it should tighten up as long as the tiny washer catches
the very inside of the bearing!

I use shims on all of my clutches!...:cool:
I just found it funny that when I take the washer out and tighten it, it spins freely. But if that first washer is in place and I tighten it, it's frozen.

You may have to get a clutch shim kit!
A kit with different thin washers helps space the bell off the clutch nut & flywheel in
which helps reduce friction ,like a thrust washer!
You should only need the tiny washer on the screw sense the bell has a lip inside
that the bearings seat to ,so it should tighten up as long as the tiny washer catches
the very inside of the bearing!

I use shims on all of my clutches!...:cool:
And I mean the very first washer that goes on before anything else.
 
I just found it funny that when I take the washer out and tighten it, it spins freely. But if that first washer is in place and I tighten it, it's frozen.


And I mean the very first washer that goes on before anything else.

The one washer with the big center hole goes inside behind the bell next to the
shoes right ,is that where you are putting that one?
 
The one washer with the big center hole goes inside behind the bell next to the
shoes right ,is that where you are putting that one?
I have everything lined up in the photo in the steps that I would put it on. I'm pretty sure it's right. But then again you learn something new every day.
 
I have everything lined up in the photo in the steps that I would put it on. I'm pretty sure it's right. But then again you learn something new every day.

Ok ,I see!..:thumbs-up:

You may not need the other big washer that goes on the screw ,I don't run one ,I only
run the tiny ones on my clutches because there always seem to be not enough clearance for them!..:cool:

Its a good idea to keep these handy in the tool box for spares!..:D

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OFNA-SHIM-K...004523?hash=item542a2f6eeb:g:jAkAAOSwzhVWsOaI
 
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