Bogda89
RCTalk Talkaholic
- Messages
- 376
- Reaction score
- 271
That's a good info. Even though slash is a little more expensive than bandit, stampede, rustler, I think it's worth extra. I never had an issue with front bushings but I had with rear in my first ever rc, stampede xl5. Axles and bushings were so worn from a lot of drivingThe base slash (xl5) has steel adjustable links and full bearings. The ones that has plastic non adjustable links and bushings are the base xl5 bandit, rustler and stampede.
Don't get me wrong, I think arrma fury is an awesome rc, I actually regret selling mine but it does have a lot of weakness.Actually, in stock form, the Slash isnt a bad truck, as long as its not the very basic, cheapest model, that has fixed plastic links and bushings. As for a cheap way to do it, you can sometimes find Stampede's and Rustler's used in good shape for $100 or less, and, the LCG chassis is $40, the bellcrank you can get on eBay for around $15, and the servo saver is around $5. If you want a stock Slash, you can find the chassis and skidplates on eBay for less than $20 (look for a seller named LumiDave). This Slash started as a Stampede, that i turned into a Slash, and, total i have less than $300 in it: https://www.rctalk.com/forum/thread...wd-to-monster-slash-truggy-conversion.137992/ As for other trucks, it entirely depends on the truck, as some are better than others, but, opinions will vary massively on what is best (perfect example, Bogda89 and i have very different opinions on the Arrma Fury). As @Bogda89 said, another option is to look for something used that parts are still available for, or, another way, but can be more expensive, depending on how its built, look for a slider chassis on eBay, and then add your own electronics, wheels and tires, and body. Using TLR parts, you could also turn your 22S into a capable race truck, or, for around $200, you could pick up a new HPI Jumpshot SC. The first thing you should do though, is find the track you plan on running at, and see what their rules are, because, some tracks are very specific about what you can and can't run. For example, around here, they are very specific about what tires you have to use, and, if it is a spec class, what electronics are required (Traxxas spec and mudboss class, for example, has to be stock XL-5 ESC, stock Titan 12T, and 2S lipo), as well as what transponder you have to use. The last thing you want is to spend the money to build a truck, take it to a track, and find out they wont let you run it. Some tracks and classes also wont let you run the cheap off-brand chinese stuff.
Pros:
It handles awesome.
I like that is super light weight.
I like the body, seems more durable than slash, and I like the looks.
It was cheap, back in the day I paid only 139$ for mine.
Cons:
Shocks are leaking all the time.
Chassis can snap easily in a place between servo and battery, but arrma realized that and it offered metal skid plate that removes that issue. Side metal reinforcement is not necessary, just the bottom.
Plastic drivetrain, but it's fine if you don't put some ridiculous fast motor.
Brushed motor is dog slow on 2s.
Shock towers especially front one is complex and super flimsy at the same time.
Rear bumper super fragile
Axle hinge pins are unscrewing all the time by itself but other rcs have same problem.
Linkage ball ends popping out very easy compared to all other cars I had.
Price of parts is 2 to 3 times higher than slash
It's not that easy to work on, to replace servo you have to disassemble whole front end but it's not the worst, mini erevo platform is hands down the worst to work on
Tires are good but they don't last long.
I am not sure if that's a problem just with mine but pin on a dog bone broke. I don't bash too hard and never broke either plastic or metal axle on any of my cars
Last edited: