With an $800 budget , what would you get?

[RustyUs]

How can you guys tell just by the specs if a servo is decent or garbage? What should I look for? How about this one that comes on the Sworkz Apollo RTR 1/8 scale buggy? Servo info is right above the buggy images. View attachment 208201

12kg-cm is only 166 oz-in of torque. I'd recommend something ≥ 300 oz-in. I'm sure the stock servo would work for a while. It all depends on running conditions and servo saver setting. But then again, I'm currently running a servo that has only 200 oz-in of torque in my eBuggy.

That servo has been in the chassis/in use since April of 2020. It may have been the used one I bought from member on URC forum days. I don't know. I bought a bunch of those servos when the new generation of "top dogs" came onboard, and stores were dumping old stock. I put those Associated XP/ACE servos in everything. When I run out of spare gearsets I'll certainly be looking for something similar/better.

I run a ProModeler DS505BLHV servo in my monster truggy (Kraton) and it's been stupid great. I was hoping Pro Modeler was going to be my next "go-to" servo brand, but for about the same amount of money... why not get something with a gear warrantee? I tried leaving a great review on ProModeler's site, but something didn't go right, or owner doesn't want a "bashers" review on site... servo's description states "not recommended for bashing".

If you are racing and want more of a guarantee that you won't DNF, pay a bit more for a servo with a guarantee/warrantee like NSDRC, and NitroPro offer.

 

[PainKiller]

12kg-cm is only 166 oz-in of torque. I'd recommend something ≥ 300 oz-in. I'm sure the stock servo would work for a while. It all depends on running conditions and servo saver setting. But then again, I'm currently running a servo that has only 200 oz-in of torque in my eBuggy.
View attachment 208208
That servo has been in the chassis/in use since April of 2020. It may have been the used one I bought from member on URC forum days. I don't know. I bought a bunch of those servos when the new generation of "top dogs" came onboard, and stores were dumping old stock. I put those Associated XP/ACE servos in everything. When I run out of spare gearsets I'll certainly be looking for something similar/better.

I run a ProModeler DS505BLHV servo in my monster truggy (Kraton) and it's been stupid great. I was hoping Pro Modeler was going to be my next "go-to" servo brand, but for about the same amount of money... why not get something with a gear warrantee? I tried leaving a great review on ProModeler's site, but something didn't go right, or owner doesn't want a "bashers" review on site... servo's description states "not recommended for bashing".
View attachment 208211

If you are racing and want more of a guarantee that you won't DNF, pay a bit more for a servo with a guarantee/warrantee like NSDRC, and NitroPro offer.

Very nice. Thanks. Why would that one not be
recommended for bashing?

 

[CertifiedMike]

I don't know anythimg about the sworkz servos.
Savox is a good name but when I try to look up SES-2S, no results on Savox page.
Search results further appear to confirm that it is a servo built by Savox for Sworks... only.
This doesn't mean its good or not but because its an rtr servo, I would expect it to be in par or slightly better than similar rtr's.
I would prob read reviews on the performance on the track for the buggy you want. Its a quick way to find out what racers think and if you're going to need replaced sooner or later.

IF its a rebranded :

https://www.savoxusa.com/products/savb12kg-budget-analog-servo-23-12-6v

I'm not real impressed. I'd think sooner replace if I had to guess.

 

[RustyUs]

Very nice. Thanks. Why would that one not be
recommended for bashing?

To cover one's ass when they come back to John all wonky? I don't know. Where and how I stumbled upon ProModeler servos is beyond me. One's thoughts on "bashing" can be different. I went down the rabbit hole when servo shopping, now I'm giving you that opportunity as well . If wanting a good read on some popular RC platforms, scroll down in the EDU case study section HERE.

 

[PainKiller]

I don't know anythimg about the sworkz servos.
Savox is a good name but when I try to look up SES-2S, no results on Savox page.
Search results further appear to confirm that it is a servo built by Savox for Sworks... only.
This doesn't mean its good or not but because its an rtr servo, I would expect it to be in par or slightly better than similar rtr's.
I would prob read reviews on the performance on the track for the buggy you want. Its a quick way to find out what racers think and if you're going to need replaced sooner or later.

IF its a rebranded :

https://www.savoxusa.com/products/savb12kg-budget-analog-servo-23-12-6v

I'm not real impressed. I'd think sooner replace if I had to guess.

Yeah , looks lackluster. But I guess the price was right for a RTR. The more I look , the more I’m interested in higher end servos and radios. Some of this stuff is crazy expensive.

 

[9x19]

Experience will teach you what you need, based on your driving habits, etc.
Spend some time with your RTR stuff, and my then decide.
I get by quite well with servos under 40kg, even in the Kagama, which has big tires.

 

[PainKiller]

Experience will teach you what you need, based on your driving habits, etc.
Spend some time with your RTR stuff, and my then decide.
I get by quite well with servos under 40kg, even in the Kagama, which has big tires.

Is the Kagama a Corally? Sounds familiar.

 

[9x19]

Yes, it is.

 

[Littlemotor]

Flysky Noble NB4+
NitroPro Pro2 servo

Best radio for the money hands down. (And this is coming from a lifetime high end Futaba user ‍)
Best servo warranty in the business, Veteran owned & operated, and one of the best servos available.

 

[PainKiller]

I’ve been split between putting components together for a possible Tekno build and drooling over the Sworkz Apollo RTR (which is significantly cheaper). Busy morning

The boys all have plans today (ie : bday party for the young ones and the 13-year-old and his pals are going to watch the local youth Super Bowl). So dad’s gonna be driving his RC solo today.

 

[Littlemotor]

Honestly-my personal opinion is that you’d be much happier with the Tekno kit, a Tekin or Hobbywing motor/esc setup, NitroPro, Tekin, or MKS servo, and a FlySky Noble NB4+ radio setup..

I recommended the Sworks exclusively due to the fact that you had posted that you would be buying the Tekno 1/8 ebuggy kit next (“for Christmas” I believe it was), and that you were expressing some interest in a “good RTR” ALSO, and I assumed that was for the boys to run occasionally, so that you’d have some similar competition when you were not running your MT10, and would familiarize them with 1/8 buggy (as that’s long been the “natural progression” of folks in hobby grade off-road RC).. I mentioned the Sworkz specifically due to that post, and my (possibly incorrect) assumption. Also it was made as the only models you were pondering at that time were the “TLR Tuned” Typhon (could never, ever be compared to a race grade buggy no matter what anyone says lol), and “I’ll have to see what Team Associated offers in the way of an RTR”… Both (if Associated did in fact make one) would be pillow ball cars, and I believe the Sworkz RTR to be a far superior setup than the Arrma, or the non-existent Team Associated. That’s when we were comparing apples to apples, and only talking RTR’s.. if you’re wanting to validate the Sworkz Apollo being a better purchase, or even HALF the car the Tekno buggy in kit for is-you’re pisssing into the wind on that one.. To say that’s a hard sell would be an epic understatement, lol.

You’re already talking about replacing electronics with the Sworkz, and the transmitter/receiver itself also-and this is EXACTLY where RTR’s get people. By the time you’re a month in (or less-I’ve seen your RTR MT sir, lol…), you’ve got more money in it than you would’ve with a kit, and you’d have learned more, HAD more, and been happier with your purchase for sure.

So what I’m saying is that IF you are no longer talking about two separate buggies-a kit Tekno, AND an RTR for the boys to kick around that’s better than the other POPULAR ready to run choices-I’d say slow your roll, and begin piecing together a solid setup around the Tekno EB48 2.2 KIT. You’ve already GOT an RTR..

Just my .02.

Good luck in what ever you decide-including if that’s to tell me to pound sand lol.. Only trying to offer the most feasible, and sound advice that I can.

 

[332_RC]

I've learned sometimes less is more with RCs with any day backyard bashing & having fun. Buy it- bash it- fix if needed. I can't speak for circuit track / club racing, I've never done it, but a good friend of mine does, frequently, all over 3 states. Constantly changing things so he can 'win' & from my perspective, he's no longer having fun. Benched a Mugen after 2+ years circuit racing to get a Kyosho. Already took it completely apart, & carted over 1k in upgrades for it. Has over 2k in it. I think his 1st race was Saturday with it. I wonder how he did.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Honestly-my personal opinion is that you’d be much happier with the Tekno kit, a Tekin or Hobbywing motor/esc setup, NitroPro, Tekin, or MKS servo, and a FlySky Noble NB4+ radio setup..

I recommended the Sworks exclusively due to the fact that you had posted that you would be buying the Tekno 1/8 ebuggy kit next (“for Christmas” I believe it was), and that you were expressing some interest in a “good RTR” ALSO, and I assumed that was for the boys to run occasionally, so that you’d have some similar competition when you were not running your MT10, and would familiarize them with 1/8 buggy (as that’s long been the “natural progression” of folks in hobby grade off-road RC).. I mentioned the Sworkz specifically due to that post, and my (possibly incorrect) assumption. Also it was made as the only models you were pondering at that time were the “TLR Tuned” Typhon (could never, ever be compared to a race grade buggy no matter what anyone says lol), and “I’ll have to see what Team Associated offers in the way of an RTR”… Both (if Associated did in fact make one) would be pillow ball cars, and I believe the Sworkz RTR to be a far superior setup than the Arrma, or the non-existent Team Associated. That’s when we were comparing apples to apples, and only talking RTR’s.. if you’re wanting to validate the Sworkz Apollo being a better purchase, or even HALF the car the Tekno buggy in kit for is-you’re pisssing into the wind on that one.. To say that’s a hard sell would be an epic understatement, lol.

You’re already talking about replacing electronics with the Sworkz, and the transmitter/receiver itself also-and this is EXACTLY where RTR’s get people. By the time you’re a month in (or less-I’ve seen your RTR MT sir, lol…), you’ve got more money in it than you would’ve with a kit, and you’d have learned more, HAD more, and been happier with your purchase for sure.

So what I’m saying is that IF you are no longer talking about two separate buggies-a kit Tekno, AND an RTR for the boys to kick around that’s better than the other POPULAR ready to run choices-I’d say slow your roll, and begin piecing together a solid setup around the Tekno EB48 2.2 KIT. You’ve already GOT an RTR..

Just my .02.

Good luck in what ever you decide-including if that’s to tell me to pound sand lol.. Only trying to offer the most feasible, and sound advice that I can.

I'll double down on this.
It seems like the question of "if you'll get back "into" r/c" is answered... you're hooked!
So my thoughts are... you start buying r/c "stuff".
Get your oils and lubes and your tools set up so you can maintain what you own currently. This also will help lessen some "sticker shock" when you buy your KIT.
I have purchased a few rtr's recently.
I am happy with one but the other 2, not really.
They ALL need UPGRADES!
If you buy a "race" quality buggy, you are buying one with factory race team upgrades.
You won't be buying plastic shocks and plastic tierods and ball ends... Your buggy will COME with upgraded aluminum and carbon fiber instead of buying a bunch of parts that, in the back of your mind "knows", should be upgraded and will make the buggy perform better.
The BEST part about building your own buggy is that you now KNOW your buggy and can see, feel, diagnose and fix any issue that arises with FULL confidence.
The experience will help you with your other r/c as well.
A kit is your next natural step in our hobby.
Like @Littlemotor pointed out... you're already concerned about the rtr electronics. It seems you've learned much from this monster of a thread!
There's nothing "wrong" with an rtr.
I think its much easier and cheaper (long term) to build a kit "right" AND you gain experience.

 

[Littlemotor]

Also to be clear-I’m absolutely recommending “race grade” kits for bashing. It’s exactly what I do, and have done for the last 20yrs wether also racing or not.. absolutely more durable, better components, better hardware, and don’t need a ton of upgrades to be capable. And of course-what @CertifiedMike mentioned-built by YOU. @332_RC is dead on with what he’s saying about his buddy too-I don’t race wallets anymore. The fun absolutely goes out the window for 95% of us when that happens. That being said; I have also attempted SINCE my serious racing days to run “quality” RTR’s.. I had an absolutely BULLETPROOF Arrma Talion 1/8 brushless truggy, outfitted with the perfect amount of aftermarket goodies without going overboard, as well as top notch aftermarket electronics. It just wasn’t nearly as capable, reliable, or fun to work on/maintain as my kit vehicles. I quickly unloaded it, and picked up another Tekno for Mrs. Littlemotor, and SHE couldn’t be happier with the change.. RTR ANYthing eats parts faster than any top tier kit manufacturer’s vehicle. Many will get upset about this statement too, but it’s the truth; so does 6s . Also the fact that this isn’t just a one night stand to the hobby. Now that it’s been established you’re in there like swimwear, and are already feeling the need for a proper non RTR radio setup (which can, and should run several vehicles-i also understand you have multiple drivers), a kit is where it’s at for sure.

 

[PainKiller]

Good advice. Thanks guys.

I need more advice … I’m currently trying to put my battery in storage mode (like I’ve done numerous times after driving the MT10). But this time I’m having trouble and I don’t know why.

 

[Littlemotor]

Good advice. Thanks guys.

I need more advice … I’m currently trying to put my battery in storage mode (like I’ve done numerous times after driving the MT10). But this time I’m having trouble and I don’t know why. View attachment 208307View attachment 208308View attachment 208309

I’m not familiar with that particular charger, but literally everyone else on this forum are, and I’m sure will chime in to assist ya.

I was coming back to share a pair of vids that are relevant for ya. Here you go.

Enjoy, and get out there and run that MT10 sir!

 

[CertifiedMike]

Good advice. Thanks guys.

I need more advice … I’m currently trying to put my battery in storage mode (like I’ve done numerous times after driving the MT10). But this time I’m having trouble and I don’t know why. View attachment 208307View attachment 208308View attachment 208309

I don't own that charger. I'd recommend verifying all connections, double check settings and if it doesn't work still, maybe @Greywolf74 can shed some light here.
He seems to be the forum "Hota guru"!
Don't try to force the issue until you know whats going on. Lipo's can be dangerous.

 

[PainKiller]

I don't own that charger. I'd recommend verifying all connections, double check settings and if it doesn't work still, maybe @Greywolf74 can shed some light here.
He seems to be the forum "Hota guru"!
Don't try to force the issue until you know whats going on. Lipo's can be dangerous.

Gotcha. Now it says “abnormal balancer port connection”. Hmm.

 

[RustyUs]

Good advice. Thanks guys.

I need more advice … I’m currently trying to put my battery in storage mode (like I’ve done numerous times after driving the MT10). But this time I’m having trouble and I don’t know why. View attachment 208307View attachment 208308View attachment 208309

I've never seen that warning before. Try it on channel two and see if same thing happens.

 

[PainKiller]

I've never seen that warning before. Try it on channel two and see if same thing happens.

Same on channel 2. No idea what’s going on.