Winter rc

[hamz9561]

not true with either corrosion x or never wet.

I have to disagree. I was a technician that built what most people would call "water proof" avionics. They are really not water proof but weather proof and water resistant. They are not made to be run immersed in water even with the conformal coatings used on the electronics.

 

[HPIguy]

Even Traxxas that clearly states "water proof" on their boxes says in the manual it's only water resistant. No idea how they haven't been forced to change that yet.

 

[SchrodeMode]

Newer erevo and other New castle creations trucks arue supposed to be water proof now.

Where are you getting this info from? I know the new Mamba Monsters from Castle are water resistant, but I haven't heard anything about the ones coming in the Traxxas vehicles being water resistant (not even on Traxxas' site).

 

[Bassboy3]

So i think that i am going to go with one of the E-Revo on the Traxxas website it sayd that they both are water tight the brushless says it has a "water tight receiver box." and that you can if you want put your own receiver in it and it will still be water tight. the brushed says it has "water-sealed electronics" whats the difference? also what is the difference between the brushed and brushless? is one better than the other? i can't really see much difference. i haven't done anything with the electronic trucks yet, (iv only had the one nitro truck and the really cheap wallmart AA battery powered ones) is there a kind of nonstock battery/extra stuff i am going to want to get with it?

 

[Alexander_0_1]

Go with the brushless they have more power!, and you'll want lipo batteries, by the way what size e-revo are you going with?

 

[SchrodeMode]

So i think that i am going to go with one of the E-Revo on the Traxxas website it sayd that they both are water tight the brushless says it has a "water tight receiver box." and that you can if you want put your own receiver in it and it will still be water tight. the brushed says it has "water-sealed electronics" whats the difference? also what is the difference between the brushed and brushless? is one better than the other? i can't really see much difference. i haven't done anything with the electronic trucks yet, (iv only had the one nitro truck and the really cheap wallmart AA battery powered ones) is there a kind of nonstock battery/extra stuff i am going to want to get with it?

Go with the brushless they have more power!, and you'll want lipo batteries, by the way what size e-revo are you going with?

The brushless 1/10 E-Revo is NOT waterproof. The fact that it has a sealed rx box means, you can run it in water and when it stops you'll know that the rx is still okay.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Bassboy3]

I am not sure what size to be honest. It looks like the reviews i saw (didn't say much on size) but the 1/16 is about 14 in. where the 1/10 is twice the size. If the sizing i saw is wrong please tell me I have a nitro stampede that i can base the size off of. Would the brushless 1/10 still ok to be used in snow? I'm sure id have to do more to make sure that it stayed dryer and such. Is it better to go for the bigger one, or are the "minis" better over all aspects? is the 1/16 small enough to be ran indoors comfortably? I kinda like the size of my stampede but i haven't had a smaller one so idk if i would like it.

 

[Bassboy3]

one other thing, what exactly is the difference between the brushed and brushless? brushless has more power but is that it?

 

[Alexander_0_1]

The mini e-revo is too fast for indoor use. Trust me I've broken ceramic things all over my house, even managed to knock the Freddy Kruger glove off the wall in the war room!

I got the MERV cause I liked the fact that it doesn't take up a whole lot of space, I do a lot of camp jobs, so most of the winter I sleep in a 10'x10'x8' room with the smallest wall mounted flat screen you've ever seen, a closet that can hold maybe a weeks change of clothes if you force them to fit and a one person dinner table. So after I have some clothes, boots, and winter gear there isn't a bunch of space left, that's why I needed the MERV to take with me.

---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:18 AM ----------

Brushless is suppose to have less to maintain, no brushes no rebuilding the motor after your done racing, and it seems that brushless motors can make more power with a smaller can/body.

 

[Bassboy3]

Ok. Well I mean I'd rather have an outdoor/winter capable rig than an indoor one. So brushless seems like it would be a lot better for me. Less maininence. Maybe when I've got some experience below my belt ill maybe try a brushed see how I like it idk. If the 1/10 isn't going to be something good (or as good) to run in the snow then I'll probably go with the 1/16 as long as its not too small. It seems if it is really 14 in. Long then it should be good.

I've got PLENTY of space to store it in. I rent a 5 bedroom house with 4 people (we are only sleeping in 2 rooms(were a set of couples)) and I have 2 bedrooms and multiple hall closets that I can store it in. My nitro stampede actually has a shelf all to its self (the gas fits on the same shelf but I keep it on the floor in a box in the closet) and I still have a few more shelfs lol =D

 

[REVO-5309]

yes, schrodemode said it. make sure your wheel bearings, and all your other drive train bearings are oiled up, dont let me dry out otherwise you will have nasty noises and the bearings will heat up and melt the plastics around them. then you will have to replace more than a cheap bearing.

 

[Alexander_0_1]

That's a good reason to try and go alloy where the bearings sit! Even if you miss a scheduled maintenance other than bending the part in a collision, or if your bearings lock up they won't get hot enough to do any serious damage to an alloy piece

My example: a while ago I built an alloy GH racing HPI savage, one of the inner axle bearing went on the right hub, and all that happened was I twisted a dogbone end, and an axle cup, but both were fine enough for me to finish a fresh gallon of nitro.

 

[SchrodeMode]

That's a good reason to try and go alloy where the bearings sit! Even if you miss a scheduled maintenance other than bending the part in a collision, or if your bearings lock up they won't get hot enough to do any serious damage to an alloy piece.

It depends on the quality of the aluminum. A steel bearing that siezes, can eat into aluminum if not replaced in time. It probably won't go all the way through, nut it can distorn the opening enough to make the part usless. A lot of people overlook bearing maintenance and then don't replace them until something breaks. I saw a ton of it when I worked on cars at my last LHS, "my car makes a funny noise and I have to kick it to make it go, fix it".

 

[Alexander_0_1]

Hmm, very good point!, I just swap out every bearing nowadays, put the old ones in a bearing holder and try to keep them all clean/oiled, in fact I still have the stock bearings from that savage and they seem to still work, I might not use them until there's no alternative but at least there's extras.

 

[Bassboy3]

So it's defiantly a decent amount of mantainence (as it is with everything) I'm assuming the manual that comes with the car will have instructions as well

 

[SchrodeMode]

So it's defiantly a decent amount of mantainence (as it is with everything) I'm assuming the manual that comes with the car will have instructions as well

No more maintenance than your nitro model. If the info isn't in the manual, a search of this forum will guide you. Most RC maintenance is comon sense, if it gets dirty...clean it, if it moves...make sure it doesn't bind, if it can rust....don't let it.

 

[Bassboy3]

I see. I guess I just assumed it was more due to it being electric.

 

[Alexander_0_1]

I just like disassembling things!, then after everything is apart I just use new bearings cause its cleaner upon reassembly.

Sometimes on the odd occasion I don't reassemble stuff, then I sell parts or trade parts