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So from tuning it the high speed I mean first even if I did that.The short answer is yes. For example, if your high speed needle was too lean to start with, some people will then make the LSN a bit rich to keep it going. So, it all depends on where you start from.
Can anybody tell me I'm correct on this? Remember I am tuning based on the perfect idle setting. And that is 0.5 millimeters@alfredwong2003 very true. Many people warned or complain about Nitro. I rarely have to tune my motors. Also small turns is all it takes. Once I have dialed in a good idle the rest falls into place nicely. With that said @newnitro2020 there is always hope. Patience and a good thermal gun to measure head temp and you will have a ripping motor in no time.
What I'm trying to achieve is understanding the low speed needle.@newnitro2020 All I can say is from personal trials and errors. What are you trying to achieve? Race ready tune? Maybe try Utube vid on that specific motor. For myself I tune on cation. I am running richer to keep temps low. I do find sometime I am not burning fuel adequate so I then adjust. Still get 30 min run on a tank. My head clocks in at 210 on average 220 on hot days. For me I am a backyard/baseball field basher so near perfect tune isnt needed. Longevity and durability are my focus.
It is a bunch of tinkering. Once you do find your sweet spot you wont loose it. I hardly turn my screws to mess with it. My throttle is set to pull on Rx and push forward give me a choke effect. Once I have it running slight pull its out of choke not yet engaged. I will try to make a video.
Well I think I got the idea but I'm sort of skeptical and limbo on it.For myself, the LSN is used to make sure the engine does not get loaded when you go from idle to full throttle or stalled during idle.
You may be overthinking a bit here.
Your idle game should almost always be 1mm, not sure where you saw .5, if it's not close to 1mm, you probably don't have the LSN right.
Essentially with the LSN, you want it in between the point where it's too lean to start, and where it's too rich and it loads up and won't idle. It's not a huge range in most engines. If your idle gap is 1mm, and it's revving to high, you're probably too lean, and right on the cusp of it being too lean to start up. If it's loading up and stalling when you take off, you're too rich.
What you should do is get the idle gap to 1mm, set both needles to factory settings. Start the engine, and work on the LSN to get the idle good (like I mentioned before, that's usually slightly leaner than the factory setting). Then start tuning the HSN for performance. Once you have that good, you can tweak the LSN a bit if your loading up and stalling, or idling too high.
That is the way your suppose to do on a long LSN needle carb. ,because the LSN needle stays in the spray bar!..
Yeah that's what I thought. There's no such thing as always having a 1 millimeter idle Gap.You may be overthinking a bit here.
Your idle game should almost always be 1mm, not sure where you saw .5, if it's not close to 1mm, you probably don't have the LSN right.
Essentially with the LSN, you want it in between the point where it's too lean to start, and where it's too rich and it loads up and won't idle. It's not a huge range in most engines. If your idle gap is 1mm, and it's revving to high, you're probably too lean, and right on the cusp of it being too lean to start up. If it's loading up and stalling when you take off, you're too rich.
What you should do is get the idle gap to 1mm, set both needles to factory settings. Start the engine, and work on the LSN to get the idle good (like I mentioned before, that's usually slightly leaner than the factory setting). Then start tuning the HSN for performance. Once you have that good, you can tweak the LSN a bit if your loading up and stalling, or idling too high.
What you're saying sounds similar to what Jay QRC was doing and one of his videos from tuning from scratch.I was talking to some of my nitro friends in private on Discord ,they say that they never tune a long needle
carb. by setting the idle gap first ,an said there was no point to do so because it will change anyway!
They attack the LSN first an set it as lean as they can get it with out issues ,then they do the Hsn. ,
then they go to the idle setting last ,because you end having to change the idle gap along each setting
of the others!..
Welcome to RCT!Hey guys I’m new here after finally learning how to tune my short needle carb on my sh I ended up getting a new nova which has a long needle carb I seen someone tuning the long needle basically as you describe backwards of the short needle process
I have yet to touch my idle screw from factory on the long needle however I can say it’s about .5mm maybe even less “it’s a tiny tiny gap” for break in I just raised the throttle trim to keep it idling through the rich break in settings once I was able to hit the ground and start leaning out I had to start with the low speed as it was far to rich to move without a flame out I started getting that very responsive and able to idle without trim then I did a really slow semi long pull to see what the engine was doing through the lower curve I found nice crisp until about half way through it would gurgle very rich then clear out and scream like a bandit! Since this is my first 45000 rpm engine I got spooked and richened the hsn about an hour or two then begin leaning the mid needle and kept doing slow long pulls listening for a nice linear power curve so far I’ve found this much easier than the short needle carb how ever I will admit it comes down to idle gap if your idle gap is correct it makes tuning that much easier in any situation