What engine do you thing is best for a buggy?

[UltegraSTI]

RG or the GS B series .21. both are dirt cheap. os has a great carb that u can sell later after its dead to a hyper engine owner who will pay you 25-30 for it (engine costs 100 or so).

GS same price (bout 100, lil more if u want a PS). very good power thru band, tough motor that can take a beating. where GS has OS beat is that rebuilds for this engine are dirt cheap and all parts readily avail. 45 for new p/s i think.

-Ult

 

[kx250ryder]

I got my RG yesterday. It comes with the adapter after all. I will be trying to break it in tonight. I was wondering, since everyone says that it is a low end engine, should I buy a high rev pipe, like a jp-2, or should I get a low end pipe, like a jp-1.

 

[OFNA buggy basher]

Well were will you be running? A large track or a smaller track. If you run on a long track with alot of straints get the jp-2 otherwise get the jp-1. Glad it comes with the adapter.

 

[AC48]

The Fantom .21 and larger mills have had some problems from what I have heard/read. The .12s are great though. The RG is a good mill,for that price you can get a nice pipe and header combo and STILL stay under $200. The B3's are stump pullers,nice bottom end tq. Depending on the track layout you will be running at I would do a RG with a JP-1 or JP-2.

psunitro, do the B3's have any top end? Or is it all on bottom?

 

[kx250ryder]

DO NOT DO IT DIVER very bad for the bearings. virgin engine bearings need to be broken in to avoid scaring the races and putting tiny flat spots on the balls. use the "bess method" aka the heat cycle method. I've had great success with it, i used to use the idle method before, but heat cycling really has shown more power out of my mills and longer life. and yes all i do is race, i have specific vehicles just for bashing. and all the racers i know, pros included want thier engines to last as long as possible, even the pros get 6-8 gallons through thier mills before a pinch or rebuild.

HEAT CYCLE METHOD
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the
ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals,
tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a
normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool
completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue
this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4
minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps
in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without
the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's
overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about
20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning.

i will be pm'ing you a very valuable link for 8th scale racing.

I found this on a search from a while back, I was wondering, when using this method, do you still put around at quarter throttle, then half, then 3/4. Or with heat cycling do you just run it as fast as you want?

 

[AC48]

Read the method you quoted, it says don't be afraid to vary RPMs, which means anything from idle to near WOT I would think.

 

[kx250ryder]

I am in the middle of a break between 2-3 minute intervals. I feel a bit nervous bringing it up past a 1/4 throttle. Old habits die hard I guess. I think I will take it really easy though, varying the RPMs might just mean between between idle and just above idle too. I don't know, I am just paranoid to smoke a motor before I get it broken in.

That engine amazes me though. It took me a half hour to get it started the first time (had to charge my starter box to get it to push through the pinch), but after leaning it out a bit, it fired up and sings like a dream. Not that its particularly useful, but this thing can idle forever, it never loads up. After watching my buddies struggle with their Hyper engines and the like, I must say, I think I have been converted to an O.S. man. Especially if this is only their base model.