"well... I didn't meeean tooo"

[the imitator]

Was my only explanation to my girlfriend after finding myself, oddly... buying an 1/8 scale buggy off craigslist.

It's been about 12 years now, but as a child I used to wonder A-Main raceway in Vancouver,WA, and always had a niche for the 1/8th scale buggies, but never owned one. I raced a budget rc10gt since my income at the time was mother and father :

With that said I found myself getting on craigslist and doing a $200 surf, My hope was to find a higher end buggy in a rolling chassis form in hopes to accumulate parts for a project car.

I ended up leaving with a near RTR setup for $180.. I was hoping someone here with some current experience and knowledge can perhaps throw in their $.02 on my pick up.

Appears to be:
Losi 8ight 1.0
Novarossi P5 ???
DX 3.0 Remote and electronics
Z590 Steering servo
Z270 Throttle servo
Lipo 1600 Receiver battery
No name pipe
Sportwerks Tires

The backplate on the engine says "made in Italy" guess its would be a cause for concern if it said "made in Japan".

Thanks for the help everyone, kind of a love hate/thing getting back into RC cars. haha!

 

[Rolex]

Got to have some pictures of the rig to make a positive ID.

 

[the imitator]

Got to have some pictures of the rig to make a positive ID.

Rolex, there should be 3 pictures posted in the OP, since you didn't see them I have changed hosting sites and now they should be visible. Thank you for the heads up!

I'm no noob to forum use and the tendencies that go long with a new user, ie: lack of information in posts, general silliness I try to avoid.

If not then I imagine what you mean is you want an overall shot of the rig, not just internals.

 

[tmaxxfreek]

You did fine, doesn't look to have been abused, the novarossi is top notch, and the losi buggy is a great platform,With the spektrum electronics, you got a good deal, Enjoy!!!!

 

[the imitator]

You did fine, doesn't look to have been abused, the novarossi is top notch, and the losi buggy is a great platform,With the spektrum electronics, you got a good deal, Enjoy!!!!

Thanks Tmaxxfreek.

The bottom of the chassis shows very little wear marks.

I'd like more specific information on the power plant. I understand their are several versions of the P5, I've read everything from this being a Team racing motor, to being a long stroke to being a very picky to tune and perhaps not everyone's favorite by any means.

The reason I picked it up for $180 was because out of all the time I had been out of RC cars, I did recognize the symptoms of sticky motor, just gummed up completely on nitro, so I got 20 bucks off for the complaint.

I did the full clean up and rebuild very slowly, made sure the piston rod and piston were in correct correlation. Come to find out the motor has great pinch! It takes me 2 efforts with my thumb to turn over the compression stroke, and if I leave it at the top it falls back and doesn't stick at the top.

Anyways, let me know if you'd like more pictures or have any suggested maintenance checks I should do.

Thanks!

 

[MudSlinger33]

She is very clean.Assuming that it runs fine, it appears that you got a great deal.

 

[the imitator]

Ill see what I can do as far as a "first start since ownership" video, and see how quick or IF she will fire up. If someone can save me a google search on some good starting settings that would be cool..

but I think needles flush with a bit more that a 1mm gap at the carb should do well.. I guess we will see if it bogs or catches at idle when we make the attempt.

I need:
charger for receiver battery
new glow plug and ignitor
12V starter box battery
fuel

 

[tmaxxfreek]

Follow this , it will run great everytime.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832

 

[the imitator]

Follow this , it will run great everytime.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832

Thanks Tmaxxfreek once again, I made sure to hit all the Stickies here, that tuning guide gave me a quick chuckle given the "alternative" routes one could take and where they lead back to. no errors from what i can see, more or less taking it out of context a little.

thanks

 

[olds97_lss]

Looks like a losi 8ight, but is tough to tell with the photo's as you can't really see much other than the chassis. Back the camera up a bit to get the whole thing in the photo.

If it is an 8ight... $180 was a steal depending on it's condition to you. The 8ight 2.0 RTR is $700. Granted that's the 2nd edition, not sure what the first edition had different...

http://losi.com/Products/ProductGallery.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0081

I think they had those weird offset diffs like yours appears to have. Not sure how many did that.

 

[the imitator]

Looks like a losi 8ight, but is tough to tell with the photo's as you can't really see much other than the chassis. Back the camera up a bit to get the whole thing in the photo.

If it is an 8ight... $180 was a steal depending on it's condition to you. The 8ight 2.0 RTR is $700. Granted that's the 2nd edition, not sure what the first edition had different...

http://losi.com/Products/ProductGallery.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0081

I think they had those weird offset diffs like yours appears to have. Not sure how many did that.

Thanks Olds97, good spot! These pictures should do some justice.

On a side note, if you were to compare the Photos on the Losi site specifically for that model it appears I have different Shock towers, they're thicker but have the same milling on atleast that one side, and the shape off the milled out parts is an exact to what is installed on my losi.

I also have aluminum shock caps; The Chassis and parts are anno'd olive, the chassis is VERY thick, he filed a small length to make room for the bump start.. oh well.. not worried after seeing the thickness. It does have a "servo saver" not sure if that was stock on 1.0?

What do you think olds? did I possibly purchase a 2.0?

 

[olds97_lss]

May just be an optical illusion on the tower thickness, or 2.0 parts on a 1.0, or it is a 2.0 and you got a REALLY REALLY sweet deal. Without knowing both intimately, I don't know the differences.

As it is, I'm envious of you as I just paid $145 for a pretty old OFNA Ultra LX on ebay last week! LOL! I wouldn't have batted an eye at buying yours for what I paid without the engine you got or pipe!

 

[Greywolf74]

IDK the differences between the 1.0 and the 2.0 but yours sure looks like a 2.0 to me. My shock towers and chassis are different color than yours but maybe its because that was the RTR version and I bought the kit version? IDK. My 2.0 has the offset rear diff just like yours. Heres some pics of my 2.0 kit if you want to compare them against yours.

 

[the imitator]

WOW!

Well if anyone can make a difference other than anno let me know.

Greywolf, from what I can see, my chassis has the exact same milling as yours. If I'm correct, the RTR 2.0 version had a different chassis from the 2.0 race roller. In the Race roller they used "Tuned flex technology" lol .. I can't seem to find the exact Length and width of a 2.0 chassis, can you possibly throw me some numbers?

EDIT: upon further inspection

I doesn't appear I have said "laser etching" for the motor mounts, so it should be confirmed by measurement that this a 2.0 RTR; but if dimensions and milling are the same then we have ourselves a confusing ordeal here.

 

[Greywolf74]

16in (406.4mm) long not including the front bumper and 4 9/16 - 4 19/32inches (116-117mm) wide depending on whether you measure toward the front or the back of the chassis.

I threw in the MM measurements cuz it was easier to measure chassis width since it was an odd size for imperial measurements.

 

[the imitator]

same numbers over here in washington.

This is weird, I may be calling Losi to see why these dimension are identical, yet no laser etching? but same milling.. different color annodizing.

Thanks Greywolf. Perhaps the thickness is a difference? shiza...

 

[adam911]

awesome rc car. i am also looking to buy a rc. but i don't know which one to buy nitro or electric.

 

[Greywolf74]

Chassis is approx 5.5mm thick, measured behind the stone guard with a pair of digital calipers. I'm guessing the difference since they seem to mostly be cosmeticare probably just the differences between the RTR and the kit versions.

 

[the imitator]

awesome rc car. i am also looking to buy a rc bil . but i don't know which one to buy nitro or electric.

Greywolf: My chassis measures in just shy of 5mm using a technical plastic school ruler.. hmm, but same dimensions and milling over wise.



Adam: See what tracks are around your immediate area and make a decision from there.

If you want a place to play in the winter, might want to find an indoor track, but most indoor tracks dont allow Nitro indoors without significant HVAC work in the building. (HUGE FANS)

But if you live in a place like California where the temps generally stay between 55 - 1,000,000 degrees, then you my sir have the fortunate ability to race year around outdoors.

 

[olds97_lss]

Man, the axles on that 2.0 sure are skinny! Guess I'm just used to the lunkers on my savage... lol