Just broke in my Wasp 28 yesterday, got through the 3 idle tanks, started on the first driving tank of fuel. This thing just falls on its face. Even during the idle tanks, the thing wouldn't rev, it would just die when throttle was applied. I set the HSN at about 4.5 turns, consistent 210-215 degrees, and the thing would die when throttle was applied. I started leaning out the LSN, which helped, but anything under 6 turns out, it would start acting up and acting like it was too lean, by revving up higher and in spurts. Got it to shift into 2nd gear twice, but it wouldnt pull any rpm's...I'm stumped...
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Wasp 28 break in, falls on its face....
- Thread starter Vogos25
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AC48
Hardcore RCTalk User
Are you sure it is too lean? My Wasp .28 wouldn't start at factory settings until I leaned out the LSN then it ran fine for me.
rocknbil
RCTalk Addict
Yeah vogos it's probably that something's out of balance with the LSN/HSN, keep after it and get it thoroughly broken in. You can also try different plugs.
ok when you apply throttle you are feeding the engine with fuel right? So you can either be doing two things. Flooding it, meaning it is too rich. OR you can be starving it of fuel. Your temps say that you are not leaning out so that is a good thing. I would try returning all to factory default then adjust your idle accordingly. Make sure you adjust it with it OFF and with the break on.
~~~~~~Make sure to adjust your needles ONE AT A TIME!!!~~~~~~~~~~~
Start the engine up and adjust the HSN. Lean in it out till your top speed is nice but your temps are good ( 210-220F ) and you got a nice trail of smoke as you go.Try some hish speed passes and see what is good. Then adjust your LSN in 1/8th increments. This will give you the accelaration or grunt/torque at first. Do this till it feels nice and again the temps and your nice trail of smoke are still within reason.
You may need to readjust the idle after setting your LSN. YOu don't want it to idle to high so it will over heat.
Be patient and you will get that engine screaming!
How was break in? You said you ran 3 tanks of break in. Technically that will not break in your engine. It needs to work under load. Running it in short bursts of 1/4 throttle will do this fine.
~~~~~~Make sure to adjust your needles ONE AT A TIME!!!~~~~~~~~~~~
Start the engine up and adjust the HSN. Lean in it out till your top speed is nice but your temps are good ( 210-220F ) and you got a nice trail of smoke as you go.Try some hish speed passes and see what is good. Then adjust your LSN in 1/8th increments. This will give you the accelaration or grunt/torque at first. Do this till it feels nice and again the temps and your nice trail of smoke are still within reason.
You may need to readjust the idle after setting your LSN. YOu don't want it to idle to high so it will over heat.
Be patient and you will get that engine screaming!
How was break in? You said you ran 3 tanks of break in. Technically that will not break in your engine. It needs to work under load. Running it in short bursts of 1/4 throttle will do this fine.
- Thread starter
- #5
I followed the break in procedure that was included with the engine from Orion. They tell you to idle 3 tanks thru it, with temperature increasing for every tank...then you can start driving the car. Well I finished off the first driveable tank, then had to call it quits. Hopefully when the weather gets nicer I can get some more tanks through it, I am hoping that is the problem, that it just hasnt got enough tanks through it yet.
I am pretty sure it is rich, considering the amount of crap pouring out of the exhaust, like puddles of unburnt fuel. Thats why I was confused about it leaning out when I adjusted the LSN. I had the same problem with my S25, go too lean on the LSN and it would rev real high and surge.
I am pretty sure it is rich, considering the amount of crap pouring out of the exhaust, like puddles of unburnt fuel. Thats why I was confused about it leaning out when I adjusted the LSN. I had the same problem with my S25, go too lean on the LSN and it would rev real high and surge.
timmytimmy14
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this happened with my brothers savage with the s-25. it would not rev and when you leaned out the hsn it would start acting up like it was too lean. it turned out that the lsn was wayy too lean and the hsn was too rich. so because the hsn was very rich the old burnt oil was spitting out of the exhaust like crazy, and when i let it idle it would sputter like the tank was almost empty. and then when i accelerated slowly it was fine but if i punched the throttle it would sputter then stall. and when it got up to speed it would not shift into second gear at all.
it sounds liek when you hit the throttle during break-in it stalled so you decided to lean the lsn out to get it to move, ok thats fine. but when you lean the lsn to do that you also have to lean out the hsn a bit, so this imbalance in the needles doesn't happen. or lean out the lsn and then when you are ready to move on to high speed runs richen it back up and start leaning out the hsn before the lsn. remember to always tune by the hsn first.
it sounds liek when you hit the throttle during break-in it stalled so you decided to lean the lsn out to get it to move, ok thats fine. but when you lean the lsn to do that you also have to lean out the hsn a bit, so this imbalance in the needles doesn't happen. or lean out the lsn and then when you are ready to move on to high speed runs richen it back up and start leaning out the hsn before the lsn. remember to always tune by the hsn first.
- Thread starter
- #7
Yeah, I tuned by the HSN first, like I said, got it up to a decent temperature, but it still wouldn't go, so thats when I started leaning out the LSN. I will work with what you said timmy, that sounds like the exact problem I have. You can ease into the throttle and it will go, but when you smash the throttle down, it dies. Cool, thanks :thumbup:
I had the same problem also, What I did was start my savage up, then place the front bumper againt something firm ( I picked my leg) then slowly applyed gas till it was past that stalling point then I would break it in driving it around, I solved this problem by leaning out the LSN
Vogos25...you might check the HSN stem assembly to make sure it's tight. I just pulled my motor out after the pullstart locked up on me (first pull of the second tank :censored: ) and after grabbing hold of the fuel line to remove it I noticed when I rocked it back and forth the stem moved. :whistle:
If I could have ran more than 1 tank through mine I gaurantee I would of had some tuning issues...of course that might explain why that one tank I did run through it took about 45 min because of all the stalling, hard starting, etc.
onder:
If I could have ran more than 1 tank through mine I gaurantee I would of had some tuning issues...of course that might explain why that one tank I did run through it took about 45 min because of all the stalling, hard starting, etc.
onder:- Thread starter
- #10
Well, I got the savage back out today, I left the LSN alone today, well I leaned it 1/8 of a turn. I put the HSN back to break in specs, 5 turns out, ended up at around 4 turns out and it was making good power, so much that I think my stock clutch shoes are trashed. The more I drove it, the more it would just rev up when I punched it. Gear mesh is good, not stripped or anything, so I am thinking that the shoes are junk. Is this pretty common with the wasp, smoking the stock clutch shoes? Time for some aluminum ones I guess.
Revo Rancher
Hardcore RCTalk User
Check your slipper clutch, too. It might need to be adjusted.
AC48
Hardcore RCTalk User
For me what usually happens is it loosens the slipper clutch like Revo Rancher said. Check that first then the clutch shoes.
- Thread starter
- #14
Ok, it was the slipper clutch, but I checked the clutch shoes as well. The clutch shoes were fine. However, I went out and ran it this weekend and it did the exact same thing, started tuning it to get a good temp, and it started slipping again. If the slipper nut keeps backing off, what can be done to fix it :dunno:
How much did you tighten the nut? I tighten mine all the way down, then back it off 1/4 turn. Seems to work well that way.
With the higher powered engines though, you may have to crank the sucker down to keep it from slipping... which would then chew up diffs and stuff.
Glad to see you got it running finally!
Also, most engines aren't really "broken in" until you get around a gallon or so of fuel through them. Expect to see more power!
With the higher powered engines though, you may have to crank the sucker down to keep it from slipping... which would then chew up diffs and stuff.
Glad to see you got it running finally!
Also, most engines aren't really "broken in" until you get around a gallon or so of fuel through them. Expect to see more power!
AC48
Hardcore RCTalk User
You can try threadlock, but I suggest getting a new nut. The nylon in the nut has probably been worn and isn't locking the nut on very well. Glad to see you got it running. You'll love the Wasp, its a beast 
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