Build Thread Warby's Traxxas Nitro Sport Pro restoration

[Warby]

M2.5 tap drill size is 2.05mm or .0807"
2-56 tap drill size is .070"
3-48 tap drill size is .0785"

The hole is smaller than 2mm but bigger than 1.5mm.

Unfortunately, I've got nothing to measured what thread it is. My thread gauges don't go that small and my smallest hardware is m3. I don't have much imperial stuff.

I am surprised they didn't come with scscrews.

They did, but not installed.

 

[WickedFog]

The hole is smaller than 2mm but bigger than 1.5mm.

Unfortunately, I've got nothing to measured what thread it is. My thread gauges don't go that small and my smallest hardware is m3. I don't have much imperial stuff.

They did, but not installed.

Oh. You do have screws. Send me a straight on pic of the screw, and measure the overall length including the head, and I will tell you what screw it is.

Measure the diameter of the thread too.

 

[WickedFog]

Send me a pic of the screw in this orientation.

 

[Warby]

Oh. You do have screws. Send me a straight on pic of the screw, and measure the overall length including the head, and I will tell you what screw it is.

Measure the diameter of the thread too.

Diameter is 2.5mm
Overall length 11.5mm
Thread length 10mm

 

[WickedFog]

Diameter is 2.5mm
Overall length 11.5mm
Thread length 10mm
View attachment 231396View attachment 231397

Well, that could be a 3-48 also. They are very close to an M2.5. It's hard to tell for sure by the pic. I did check it, and here are the differences in the two.

M2.5 OD in imperial would be .098"
Drill diameter 2.05mm or .0807"

3-48 OD would be .099" or 2.514mm
Drill diameter is .0785"

Thread pitch between the two are very similar also.

M2.5 x .45 thread pitch in imperial is .0177"
3-48 is .020" or .529mm.

I would guess it is indeed an M2.5 though.

You just need to man up and force it through there

 

[Warby]

Well, that could be a 3-48 also. They are very close to an M2.5. It's hard to tell for sure by the pic. I did check it, and here are the differences in the two.

M2.5 OD in imperial would be .098"
Drill diameter 2.05mm or .0807"

3-48 OD would be .099" or 2.514mm
Drill diameter is .0785"

Thread pitch between the two are very similar also.

M2.5 x .45 thread pitch in imperial is .0177"
3-48 is .020" or .529mm.

I would guess it is indeed an M2.5 though.

You just need to man up and force it through there

Ok thanks

You just need to man up and force it through there

I did. I even put my purse down.

All good. I'll wait for the thread tap.

 

[Warby]

Parts arrived for the front end so I removed the front assembly again for better access.

Front springs arrived so the aluminium shocks have been fitted. New arms, correct length screws, servo saver and steering turnbuckles.

I wanted this build to use original oem parts as much as possible but I don't like those wiry traxxas turnbuckles. All the old ones were bent and rusted, plus they don't have a hex for adjustment. These aftermarket turnbuckles look better imo. You may have noticed I fitted them to the rear as well. I might try and find some for the front upper suspension too.

 

[Chubaka]

Parts arrived for the front end so I removed the front assembly again for better access.

Front springs arrived so the aluminium shocks have been fitted. New arms, correct length screws, servo saver and steering turnbuckles.

View attachment 231555

I wanted this build to use original oem parts as much as possible but I don't like those wiry traxxas turnbuckles. All the old ones were bent and rusted, plus they don't have a hex for adjustment. These aftermarket turnbuckles look better imo. You may have noticed I fitted them to the rear as well. I might try and find some for the front upper suspension too.
View attachment 231556

When I get to my sport, I'm going titanium links. you're off to a great start. can't wait to see the outcome.

 

[WickedFog]

Parts arrived for the front end so I removed the front assembly again for better access.

Front springs arrived so the aluminium shocks have been fitted. New arms, correct length screws, servo saver and steering turnbuckles.

View attachment 231555

I wanted this build to use original oem parts as much as possible but I don't like those wiry traxxas turnbuckles. All the old ones were bent and rusted, plus they don't have a hex for adjustment. These aftermarket turnbuckles look better imo. You may have noticed I fitted them to the rear as well. I might try and find some for the front upper suspension too.
View attachment 231556

Yeah, those do look a lot nicer.

 

[Warby]

Made it fit.

So the aftermarket turnbuckles I bought were for a Rustler/Slash/Hoss etc, so not all the rods were the correct length for the Nitro Sport. The front suspension upper turnbuckle was one of them.

I found if I fitted the Traxxas ends to the aftermarket rods they were then only 5mm too long. I then found the shock tower has another adjustment hole, which was perfectly 5mm inboard of the other hole.

I just had to drill out the traxxas ends to suit the M4 turnbuckle threads.

 

[Doom!]

Lookin' good, when are you going to screw something up?

 

[Warby]

Lookin' good, when are you going to screw something up?

Thank you.
I was actually having clearance issues between servo saver, turnbuckles and the lower chassis deck. I was trying to sort it out yesterday but had to stop and go do other stuff. I think the new Hitec servo is taller. Don't know, I haven't measured anything yet.

 

[9x19]

Is it fixed yet?

Is it fixed yet?

Is it fixed yet?

Is it fixed yet?

 

[luke66]

It’s working! Itsssssss woooooorrrkkkiiiingggg!

 

[Warby]

Thank you.
I was actually having clearance issues between servo saver, turnbuckles and the lower chassis deck. I was trying to sort it out yesterday but had to stop and go do other stuff. I think the new Hitec servo is taller. Don't know, I haven't measured anything yet.

I just measured both servos. The saver sits 2mm lower (the steering servo is mounted upside down) on the Hitec servo compared to the original Traxxas 2055 servo.
All good, I'll just shim the servo up off the chassis with washers or something. Won't need much.

 

[Warby]

I just measured both servos. The saver sits 2mm lower (the steering servo is mounted upside down) on the Hitec servo compared to the original Traxxas 2055 servo.
All good, I'll just shim the servo up off the chassis with washers or something. Won't need much.

View attachment 231685

Solution. Found I had these servo rubber insulators in my bits and bobs. Just enough to space it up.

 

[Warby]

I've had the front assembly on and off so many times that the threads in the bulkhead are getting weak. I'm considering getting an aluminium bulkhead to replace it.

Like this:

 

[WickedFog]

I just measured both servos. The saver sits 2mm lower (the steering servo is mounted upside down) on the Hitec servo compared to the original Traxxas 2055 servo.
All good, I'll just shim the servo up off the chassis with washers or something. Won't need much.

View attachment 231685

You could possibly remove those cap screws in the servo and run buttonheads and move the steering links to the top of the servo horn.

 

[Warby]

You could possibly remove those cap screws in the servo and run buttonheads and move the steering links to the top of the servo horn.

In the saver? Their countersunk screws. I fitted them for more clearance and used the traxxas rod end balls as they are slightly smaller width.

I did consider moving the links to the top of the saver but was trying to keep the steering turnbuckles horizontal.

All good now with the servo spaced up slightly. It only needed about a millimetre.

 

[WickedFog]

In the saver? Their countersunk screws. I fitted them for more clearance and used the traxxas rod end balls as they are slightly smaller width.

I did consider moving the links to the top of the saver but was trying to keep the steering turnbuckles horizontal.

All good now with the servo spaced up slightly. It only needed about a millimetre.

Oh, no I was referring to these. Are these cap screws?