Upgrade Rival mt10 drivetrain questions.

[KeepOnKeepnOn]

Just got a castle 1415/ mamba combo and do not want to shred my drive train. What center and cv driveshafts yall recommend. I see people have luck with hoss components. Just wondering my options. Advice on my mt10 is much appreciated.

 

[Greywolf74]

Anything made from hardened steel.

 

[WickedFog]

How about these?

Nevermind lol

 

[9x19]

Will those MT8 CVAs will fit the MT10?

 

[WickedFog]

Will those MT8 CVAs will fit the MT10?

Oh lol. I didn't even catch that. I searched for Rival driveshafts and completely forgot they came out with the MT8

 

[KeepOnKeepnOn]

The TA metal ones have poor reviews. I settled on Hoss 4x4 VXL driveshafts. Just need a lil dremeling to fit. Jess on this forum has had good results with them. $33 for 4 I'll roll the dice. Thanx for yalls help. Now what 17mm tire to put on.gonna size up.

 

[Franky2Tone]

The TA metal ones have poor reviews. I settled on Hoss 4x4 VXL driveshafts. Just need a lil dremeling to fit. Jess on this forum has had good results with them. $33 for 4 I'll roll the dice. Thanx for yalls help. Now what 17mm tire to put on.gonna size up.

Did you install the metal Hoss 4x4 VXL driveshafts? Or Extreme Duty versions?

Thx

 

[KeepOnKeepnOn]

Did you install the metal Hoss 4x4 VXL driveshafts? Or Extreme Duty versions?

Thx

Traxxas driveshaft assembly, front, extreme heavy duty
Model# 6851A

Buy four of the "Front" axles

If you buy a set from jennys or somewhere. They come with 2 front and two rear. THE REAR WILL NOT WORK!
Mod the front as follows!
Where it slides on to the differential it will hit two raised spots on the inside of the driveshaft. Dremel them spots smooth. Next it will hit on the solid peice of plastic inside. Stopping you just short of the set screw location. Dremel it through all the way. Basically on the inside that attaches to the diff. Dremel it on the inside to look just like the inside of a toilet paper tube. Smooth and open ended on both ends. Takes a lil finesse to get the hex pin in the first time. No mod needed there. Just some pliers and patience. Took me 10mins. It was my first build. Its easy AF!

Buy with confidence! They never once gave me any problems and I throw huge amounts of torque at them. I key it up all the time from a dead stop and do double backflips. Still as good as the day I bought them.

 

[Franky2Tone]

Traxxas driveshaft assembly, front, extreme heavy duty
Model# 6851A

Buy four of the "Front" axles

If you buy a set from jennys or somewhere. They come with 2 front and two rear. THE REAR WILL NOT WORK!
Mod the front as follows!
Where it slides on to the differential it will hit two raised spots on the inside of the driveshaft. Dremel them spots smooth. Next it will hit on the solid peice of plastic inside. Stopping you just short of the set screw location. Dremel it through all the way. Basically on the inside that attaches to the diff. Dremel it on the inside to look just like the inside of a toilet paper tube. Smooth and open ended on both ends. Takes a lil finesse to get the hex pin in the first time. No mod needed there. Just some pliers and patience. Took me 10mins. It was my first build. Its easy AF!

Buy with confidence! They never once gave me any problems and I throw huge amounts of torque at them. I key it up all the time from a dead stop and do double backflips. Still as good as the day I bought them.

That's awesome...thx. I would have wasted the money on the rear shafts if it weren't for you! I picked up 3 Brushed MT10s for an absolute song - 1 for the wife, kid and I.

Already burned up the brushed motor (2nd time out)...so I swapped in the Hobbywing 140A / 3665 3200kV combo on all 3. Running 14T - runs cold - could probably go taller, but don't want to sacrifice too much initial torque. I looked at the Castle 1415 motor, but with 3 to upgrade (and a big coupon from Hobbywing) AND the desire to run some 2s packs - it was a no brainer. The motor mount is silly - I dropped in the M2C carbon on all 3 - that part is fine, but there is so much movement on that ridiculous cheese motor mount. Did you end up supporting the back of the motor somehow?

Running the stock radio & servo, but not for much longer. 2 of the servos already have the shakes...1 of the transmitters developed has really really bad range. Not impressed with the Associated electronics...

 

[KeepOnKeepnOn]

That's awesome...thx. I would have wasted the money on the rear shafts if it weren't for you! I picked up 3 Brushed MT10s for an absolute song - 1 for the wife, kid and I.

Already burned up the brushed motor (2nd time out)...so I swapped in the Hobbywing 140A / 3665 3200kV combo on all 3. Running 14T - runs cold - could probably go taller, but don't want to sacrifice too much initial torque. I looked at the Castle 1415 motor, but with 3 to upgrade (and a big coupon from Hobbywing) AND the desire to run some 2s packs - it was a no brainer. The motor mount is silly - I dropped in the M2C carbon on all 3 - that part is fine, but there is so much movement on that ridiculous cheese motor mount. Did you end up supporting the back of the motor somehow?

Running the stock radio & servo, but not for much longer. 2 of the servos already have the shakes...1 of the transmitters developed has really really bad range. Not impressed with the Associated electronics...

NO Worries! I got ya covered.
I experienced ever issue you spoke about.

The 1415 combo is straight over kill. I went with that set up mainly to keep my temps down as I geared up to a 19t pinion. Where I live near Houston ouside temps get 100-110° for weeks on end. You will love the motor combo you purchased. Tweak the diff. fluid to your liking. Suited to your individual driving style.

FYI locktite professional is the exact same as proline tire glue but cheaper. Although the proline applicator is ligit. I just refill my bottle with the LT professional. Check your tires after every run.

Front bumper sucks too! Once you rip it off. Just stuff some cheap pvc pipe insulaton in the front and zip tie it to the tower brace. Unless your running lights don't bother with another bumper.

I also suggest to drill the top two holes of your wheelie bar all the way threw the tower brace. Then you can use a screw with a nut on the end. Trust me you will rip that off too. That fixs that.

Get some metal/aluminum wheel hexs. Ditch the plastic ones period.
Use finishing nails cut to size for the hex pins. Cheaper and will not bend or break. $10 Also the cheaper bearings off amazon have done me right. $10 for 10-20count per size.

Get a cheap amazom 35kg amazon special servo. Set esc to deliver 7.4v if possible. If not its still all good. $25-$30 If you need a metal servo horn the mt 8 horn is a direct fit.

RX/TX Dumbo x6 / X6FG. $25-$40
Has a gyro do-hicky to boot. Can drive it out of sight and still have signal. Response time is awsome too.

Motor mount link
https://customrcupgrades.com/?s=Mt10
Thats the one and the only one.
Ditch the top motor mount screw. Get an appropriate length bolt with a lock washer. If not you will lose gear mesh constantly.

Buy with confidence. The above stated items are the cheapest in price but all quality. I own and put every item through its paces. Bash my MT 10 three times a week.

 

[Franky2Tone]

NO Worries! I got ya covered.
I experienced ever issue you spoke about.

The 1415 combo is straight over kill. I went with that set up mainly to keep my temps down as I geared up to a 19t pinion. Where I live near Houston ouside temps get 100-110° for weeks on end. You will love the motor combo you purchased. Tweak the diff. fluid to your liking. Suited to your individual driving style.

Get some metal/aluminum wheel hexs. Ditch the plastic ones period.
Use finishing nails cut to size for the hex pins. Cheaper and will not bend or break. $10 Also the cheaper bearings off amazon have done me right. $10 for 10-20count per size.

Get a cheap amazom 35kg amazon special servo. Set esc to deliver 7.4v if possible. If not its still all good. $25-$30

RX/TX Dumbo x6 / X6FG. $25-$40
Has a gyro do-hicky to boot. Can drive it out of sight and still have signal. Response time is awsome too.

Motor mount link
https://customrcupgrades.com/?s=Mt10
Thats the one and the only one.

Buy with confidence. The above stated items are the cheapest in price but all quality. I own and put every item through its paces. Bash my MT 10 three times a week.

I need to let the suspension loosen up a bit before I start on the diff and shock fluid. I already want to increase the center wt to maybe 100k and the rear to 10 or 20k. Front seems to be just fine. Already swapped over to all RPM arms - pretty happy with those so far. Shocks feel a bit stiff - but will wait until things loosen up a bit before changing weights. I'd really prefer to swap in some progressive/multi-rate springs, but one thing at a time! Ha...

In ordered that radio early today...

What other parts should I have on-hand or swap to other brands? Trucks are pretty fun as it is...I will most likely be swapping in the pro 4 sc10 chassis on mine and increasing the pinion gear a bit. My wife and son are still learning, but I used to race years ago...

 

[KeepOnKeepnOn]

I need to let the suspension loosen up a bit before I start on the diff and shock fluid. I already want to increase the center wt to maybe 100k and the rear to 10 or 20k. Front seems to be just fine. Already swapped over to all RPM arms - pretty happy with those so far. Shocks feel a bit stiff - but will wait until things loosen up a bit before changing weights. I'd really prefer to swap in some progressive/multi-rate springs, but one thing at a time! Ha...

In ordered that radio early today...

What other parts should I have on-hand or swap to other brands? Trucks are pretty fun as it is...I will most likely be swapping in the pro 4 sc10 chassis on mine and increasing the pinion gear a bit. My wife and son are still learning, but I used to race years ago...

If your gonna send it. That motor mount for sure. Other than that there tough lil trucks. I put rpm arms on mine also. I can vouch for the black rpm arms. Truthfully other than changing the occasional bearing and reglueing my tires every run there solid in my experience. You'll like the radio. It's good enough for a basher and the cost is cheap. If ya lose it or if someone drops it in a puddle your not out alot of coin. Blows the stock one away! The range is crazy for that price.

 

[Franky2Tone]

Very pleased with how well these trucks handle - quite nimble and fast/stable enough to have some decent fun. Seems pretty solid - one clipped an upturned plywood edge at full speed and cartwheel the truck. The RPM arm absorbed most of it like a champ...The hinge pin bent and ripped out of the front aluminum hinge pin block. Flipped the block over and straightened/reverse the pin...and I was all set. I was expecting catastrophic damage - but it looks great. I've changed the stock settings on the Hobbywing ESC and increased reverse power to 50% (from 25%) - it had the side effect of also increasing the brake power a bit... so now standing front wheelies are possible. Once the 3s batteries show up, there are a few other things

I picked up a carbon fiber M2C motor mount when I first picked up the trucks - I read about the early issues and googled - I didn't know the Al one existed at the time. Assuming it isn't crap carbon, it should be stiffer (or at least equivalent). The overall motor mount design leaves a lot to be desired...once I settle on a pin size, I am going to jam some sort of semi-flexible epoxy under the rear of the motor in hopes of reducing the lever arm. I've already had rocks work their way in between the chassis and motor causing some lifting to occur...so regardless, some foam will be necessary.

 

[KeepOnKeepnOn]

I agree! The motor mount leaves alot to be desired. At least let us 4 bolt the darn thing. I was debating on what to do with the rear of the motor myself. I decided to roll the dice and leave it be. I wanted maximum air flow for my fans. Counterintuitive but often run it with the mesh sock cover alot to avoid the rock situation you mentioned. Spent alot on mods to get it where its a beast. Bought it for my son which is 5yrs old. Blew that brushed motor within the week. Electronics crapped out the next. Threw it in the corner bought an arma goron for him and copped his MT10. We have a blast. I'm a country boy living in the suburbs. Errrrr! Slaps a smile on our faces and keeps us outside. Anything that engages his brain outside is a win win situation. Better than watching youtube or video games. He lost interest in fishing so I had to take a different approach. Let me know how you like the pro chassis and any genius solutions to make the rig generally better. I actually am hardly ever on this forum. Just so happened you caught me at a good time. I was getting some opinions on a Mojave 6S . She's in my crossairs. Anyways my names Waylon and I hope I helped yall sort a lil out. Sometimes I can not convey instructions well. Have fun

 

[WeaponF]

Hi I saw someone mentioned sometime that putting bearings on the driveshaft helps stop it from rattling . Any idea what size bearing?