Time to start building this Tekno MT48 2.0 kit!

[ferrebee88]

Haven't even opened the box yet... but here are some of the extras I picked up:
Aluminum servo horn
Tower to tower brace
Aluminum shock caps
Steel diff cross-pins
I also have aluminum hinge pin blocks on the way for adjustability!

I will be using a Castle MMX with 2200kv motor that I intend to run on 4s only.
Most likely going with Dboots backflip LPs or proline 3.8 badlands.
I haven't decided on servo or body yet.
Suggestions welcome!

 

[Littlemotor]

Haven't even opened the box yet... but here are some of the extras I picked up:
Aluminum servo horn
Tower to tower brace
Aluminum shock caps
Steel diff cross-pins
I also have aluminum hinge pin blocks on the way for adjustability!

I will be using a Castle MMX with 2200kv motor that I intend to run on 4s only.
Most likely going with Dboots backflip LPs or proline 3.8 badlands.
I haven't decided on servo or body yet.
Suggestions welcome!
View attachment 249218

Believe it or not-those 7075 A,B,C, & D blocks are gonna greatly improve the durability. The kit A block in unfortunately highly prone to snapping right in half..

Can’t wait to see how it turns out!

 

[ferrebee88]

Believe it or not-those 7075 A,B,C, & D blocks are gonna greatly improve the durability. The kit A block in unfortunately highly prone to snapping right in half..

Can’t wait to see how it turns out!

Oh I believe it. I used the stock plastic on my SCT410.3, and when they broke, I replaced them with the 7075 aluminum. Never had another problem.

 

[ferrebee88]

I am going to start off with Razor rc's suggestion of 50k front, 100k center, and 30k rear

 

[Tunedfrog]

Looking forward to following this thread.

 

[RustyUs]

Haven't even opened the box yet... but here are some of the extras I picked up:
Aluminum servo horn
Tower to tower brace
Aluminum shock caps
Steel diff cross-pins
I also have aluminum hinge pin blocks on the way for adjustability!

I will be using a Castle MMX with 2200kv motor that I intend to run on 4s only.
Most likely going with Dboots backflip LPs or proline 3.8 badlands.
I haven't decided on servo or body yet.
Suggestions welcome!
View attachment 249218

Most excellent!

You got some on order for them blocks? I don't think they've made the 5mm version yet (to fit the stock hinge pins) so I'm guessing you'll be drillin', or using 4mm hinge pins and bushings. Yes/no?

 

[ferrebee88]

Most excellent!

You got some on order for them blocks? I don't think they've made the 5mm version yet (to fit the stock hinge pins) so I'm guessing you'll be drillin', or using 4mm hinge pins and bushings. Yes/no?

I will be using the 4mm hinge pins with the sleeves. (I've never bent a Tekno hinge pin before, so I am assuming the 4mm pin will work just fine for me.)Tekno put the part numbers in the manual.

 

[ferrebee88]

I dont know how durable these plastic cross pins are, but I would rather not go through the effort to find out! Just seems like a bad idea to me. I opted for the steel ones.

 

[Littlemotor]

I dont know how durable these plastic cross pins are, but I would rather not go through the effort to find out! Just seems like a bad idea to me. I opted for the steel ones.
View attachment 249408

I’ve not seen, nor heard of them causing a problem with literally anyone-but I’m with you 100%.

 

[Littlemotor]

Every manufacturer is obviously gonna leave some room to make money by not offering a fully bulletproofed (to the best of their available options) kit right off the rip, but it definitely bothers me that Tekno-of all manufacturers, does this with a handful of specific components across their entire electric line.

Plastic cross pins (multiple vehicles, but not all)
Plastic spur (understandable in race vehicles, but the self proclaimed “be all-end all” MT? C’mon guys…)
Plastic shock caps (nothing beyond 1/10 buggy should have these IMO)
Plastic, stamped steel, or hybrid A, B, C, & D blocks
Plastic steering rack bushings (FIRST thing I chuck straight into the trash every single time)
Plastic swaybar collars (where applicable)

I’m sure one or two things are slipping my mind, but these things above are comical to me, and ESPECIALLY in this particular truck.

 

[ferrebee88]

Every manufacturer is obviously gonna leave some room to make money by not offering a fully bulletproofed (to the best of their available options) kit right off the rip, but it definitely bothers me that Tekno-of all manufacturers, does this with a handful of specific components across their entire electric line.

Plastic cross pins (multiple vehicles, but not all)
Plastic spur (understandable in race vehicles, but the self proclaimed “be all-end all” MT? C’mon guys…)
Plastic shock caps (nothing beyond 1/10 buggy should have these IMO)
Plastic, stamped steel, or hybrid A, B, C, & D blocks
Plastic steering rack bushings (FIRST thing I chuck straight into the trash every single time)
Plastic swaybar collars (where applicable)

I’m sure one or two things are slipping my mind, but these things above are comical to me, and ESPECIALLY in this particular truck.

Well, there is another $10 I didn't know I needed to spend. I didn't know the kit comes with plastic steering bushings...

A bit ridiculous considering the original MT410 had steel cross pins on all 3 diffs, aluminum A,B,C, and D blocks, and aluminum steering bushings... and sway bars.

But, there are some definite improvements like a thicker chassis and thicker shock towers. I wish I still had my original MT410 to compare to as I build.

 

[Littlemotor]

Well, there is another $10 I didn't know I needed to spend. I didn't know the kit comes with plastic steering bushings...

A bit ridiculous considering the original MT410 had steel cross pins on all 3 diffs, aluminum A,B,C, and D blocks, and aluminum steering bushings... and sway bars.

But, there are some definite improvements like a thicker chassis and thicker shock towers. I wish I still had my original MT410 to compare to as I build.

Yep-kinda strange for them to go backward imo.. For me personally-even though Tekno’s composites are undoubtedly second to none; aluminum rack bushings are a must. In my OG NB/EB/NT/ET 2.0 platforms, they were aluminum. So my NB2.2 build thread came to a screeching halt when I arrived at the rack.. I was pissed. The “upgrade” part? -you guessed it; the OG rack bushing part# that was INCLUDED with my OG 2.0 stuff . I do not personally feel that there is a more durable brand available currently, and I’ve yet to hear of anyone have a failure over those, but I still hate to see them do that nonsense..

 

[ferrebee88]

After installing the aluminum blocks, I can see why people dont like the stock ones. Plastic coating a thin piece of metal... So far the components look and feel pretty stout. The shockntowers are 5mm thick. I found some M2C universal "mushroom head" droop screws in my bin of stuff. I'm going to give those a try.

 

[ferrebee88]

I am honestly not a fan of new style "fixed" motor mounts. I much prefer the old sliders. I am using a Castle system with 2200kv motor. I will only be running 4s, so I'm going with a 16t pinion. (Was going to start with 15t, but I have a spare 16t lying around)

 

[ferrebee88]

That is one wide mother! I am waiting on a couple parts and still have more to build, but here is a comparison next to the MT410 2.0. Those Jconcepts Renagades are huge!

 

[Littlemotor]

That is one wide mother! I am waiting on a couple parts and still have more to build, but here is a comparison next to the MT410 2.0. Those Jconcepts Renagades are huge!

View attachment 250918View attachment 250919View attachment 250920

It’s designed around zero offset wheels.

 

[ferrebee88]

The traxxas TRX4 might be a pretty good body option for this.

 

[ferrebee88]

Yup... this is going to be pretty epic!

 

[9x19]

Looks great!

 

[ferrebee88]

Thats gonna look good! Proline 1980 Chevy pickup.