That's a lot of batteries

[DavidB1126]

12 batteries for 4 cars. Do you think that's a little bit overkill?

4 batteries for the race buggy (2 Maclan ones for backup)
4 batteries for the mini b (2 dynamite ones for backup)
4 batteries for 2 Traxxas cars. (2 SMCs for the slash. And the other ones for the rustler)

And some protection

Oh yea. Can't forget the transmitter battery. That really doesn't count though.

 

[requiem33]

Do you think that's a little bit overkill?

I do not think this means what you think it does. You always need MORE batteries!

 

[DavidB1126]

You always need MORE batteries!

I was already planning to get some more. Lol

 

[bill_delong]

I prefer to limit 2 batteries per class I race, I try not to use my backup battery unless absolutely necessary in a bump up situation. I put as many charge cycles on a single battery as I can to wear that pack down first. A new pack typically offers IR around 1.0mΩ per cell and I will monitor the cells until 1 cell goes farther than 1mΩ apart from the other cells then I replace the worn pack and will rotate the backup pack to the primary pack while buying a new backup battery.

If I was racing a stock class then I would discard any battery where any cell goes above 2.0mΩ where I would sell the pack for about 50% of what I paid with the understanding that the pack still has at least 50% life left in it, but no longer for competitive stock racing.

 

[TeknoJ]

@bill_delong just always has something to say that makes absolute sense. As a “basher” (and I hate that term”) I think about 2 batteries per vehicle is good. If the battery crosses over to multiple platforms then I don’t buy that many. It seems I need to invest in a charger that measures IR, I use a Venom pro Duo, it does not have that feature as far as I know, but it does charge a crap ton of battery types.

 

[DavidB1126]

I prefer to limit 2 batteries per class I race, I try not to use my backup battery unless absolutely necessary in a bump up situation. I put as many charge cycles on a single battery as I can to wear that pack down first. A new pack typically offers IR around 1.0mΩ per cell and I will monitor the cells until 1 cell goes farther than 1mΩ apart from the other cells then I replace the worn pack and will rotate the backup pack to the primary pack while buying a new backup battery.

If I was racing a stock class then I would discard any battery where any cell goes above 2.0mΩ where I would sell the pack for about 50% of what I paid with the understanding that the pack still has at least 50% life left in it, but no longer for competitive stock racing.

For the stock buggy, I use the CHNL batteries. They are pretty good. Last time I checked them they were are 2.5ish milliohms a cell. Since I'm you know. Just racing for fun, I don't see any issue.

I think about 2 batteries per vehicle is good.

Yep thats my rule of thumb too. But idk when but I just got addicted on buying batteries. Lol

If the battery crosses over to multiple platforms then I don’t buy that many.

Yea. The all of the batteries I have for the 10th scales can work in all 3 of my cars, besides my buggie which can only do shorty packs.
I actually used one of the shorty packs in my slash today to test it out. I had to put alot of foam in the battery tray to secure it. I just used old tire foam I had laying around. It works.

 

[bill_delong]

... I need to invest in a charger that measures IR...

I can't stress the importance of knowing what your IR readings are, every single LiPo fire I've witnessed to date (probably close to a dozen) I've asked the driver what their IR readings were the last time they checked and not a single person even knew what IR was... shrug

Not knowing the IR is like playing with a timebomb that you have no idea when it will spontaneously combust.

I would encourage you to consider some chargers referenced here:

• Which charger is the best?

***EDIT***
Side note, I always do a facepalm when I see people invest in a LiPo bag, or cram all of their batteries into a single container which can create a chain reaction creating far greater intensity of flames as 1 bad pack causes the entire collection to go up in smoke. I choose to store each battery in the car to isolate my packs to minimize damage. You have about 10 seconds to get a smoking pack outside before it bursts into flames, act VERY fast because that stank will stay in your house for weeks, possibly years if you have a chain reaction!

I know of a fellow racer who burned down his garage... finished race on a Saturday, placed all his packs in storage mode grouped together in a plastic tool box in the garage, went to bed and woke up at 2am with smoke alarms going off, garage and all it's contents including 2 parked cars were a total loss This happened before IR was a thing and there were no signs of swollen packs, no cracks, everything seemed in good working condition other than he stored the batteries in a hot garage which is a major mistake.