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Tunedfrog
Kermit the frog is a sissy.
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Stay away from aluminum a-arms. Aluminum bends and plastic returns to it's original shape. So after a hard hit, the aluminum arms are toast. I would get a set of RPM arms.
One thing to remember is, aluminum definitely stronger than plastic but some aluminum parts will send the shock from a hard hit to the next weakest part.
That you just have to use your own judgement. Some aluminum parts are good but just be careful where you put them if that makes sense.
One thing to remember is, aluminum definitely stronger than plastic but some aluminum parts will send the shock from a hard hit to the next weakest part.
That you just have to use your own judgement. Some aluminum parts are good but just be careful where you put them if that makes sense.
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WickedFog
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Here... let me google that for you...
My general rule of thumb is, if it creates a lever when hit, that transfers the shock to a weaker component, steer clear. Meaning A-arms are not a place for aluminum. Especially with open-wheeled vehicles. But things like C-hubs, axle carries, chassis braces, etc are all safe places for aluminum upgrades.
Just know that adding aluminum adds weight though. And weight is a big factor in how an RC performs. Adding weight will be harder on drivetrain components, motor and ESC temperatures, and might add to the damage the car takes when it hits stuff. Depending on how much weight you add, you also may need to drop down a tooth or so with your pinion gear. So choose your upgrades wisely.
My general rule of thumb is, if it creates a lever when hit, that transfers the shock to a weaker component, steer clear. Meaning A-arms are not a place for aluminum. Especially with open-wheeled vehicles. But things like C-hubs, axle carries, chassis braces, etc are all safe places for aluminum upgrades.
Just know that adding aluminum adds weight though. And weight is a big factor in how an RC performs. Adding weight will be harder on drivetrain components, motor and ESC temperatures, and might add to the damage the car takes when it hits stuff. Depending on how much weight you add, you also may need to drop down a tooth or so with your pinion gear. So choose your upgrades wisely.
WickedFog
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Hot Racing, Vitavon (on ebay mostly) and Treal make good quality aluminum stuff. I'm not sure if they make anything for the DB Pro, but I know they make great stuff for a lot of RC's.
I dont own that kit so I can't say for sure. Id just upgrade things as they break
Riko
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in the facebook group of the DB, you can see TONS of owners running Vitavon diff cases...
mine took a hit on the bolting points,
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/new-losi-tenacity-db-pro.126730/page-14#post-1348193
I did however ordered spare oem cases, but once those are shot again, I'll upgrade for alu diff cases from vitavon
Maxamillian
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Hey so I see every one is choosing rpm plastic vs aluminum but if you had any choice of material what would you use for suspension arms
materials I able to use. Titanium, steel, aluminum, abs, PLA, PETG, Nylon, TPU,PVA, HIPS, Composites (carbon fiber, kevlar, fiberglass),
I will be making them for my erevo 2.0
materials I able to use. Titanium, steel, aluminum, abs, PLA, PETG, Nylon, TPU,PVA, HIPS, Composites (carbon fiber, kevlar, fiberglass),
I will be making them for my erevo 2.0
WickedFog
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It's never a good idea to use metal arms. The plastic arms flex, absorbing the impact of any collisions. With metal arms, they transfer the impact to the bulkhead, breaking and bending more expensive parts.
Riko
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Just leave the arms stock, especially when everything connected with it is metal...
Dont overthink this poop...
My material of choice would be RPM plastic. Never use metal for a-arms or spur gears.
I have the TT pro and I busted the stock steering knuckles twice. Upgraded to the GPM ones but had to drill the holes bigger because the QC leaves a lot to be desired.
