Team Associated RC10T4.x

[RustyUs]

It was the first time, last night, that my T4.3 drove better than the T4.2FT. Probably in my head, but I could hold a line better in the rough stuff. So much fun now that I don't have to worry about shocks blowing out.

I'm gonna push the gear diff loaded T4.3 for as long as I can, because it has come to my attention that gear diff rebuild kits, and complete gear/ball diff assemblies are now discontinued. I'd be totally bummed if I had just bought a SC10.3, or the T4.3 and found out the news. There still is the ball diff that can be bought (pieced together separately) and used in these platforms, but who knows how long supplies out there will last.

 

[ahr43]

RC10T4 here with its new JConcepts Finnisher body. Custom paint by RC Bombshells. Completed the stickering yesterday and got RD approval on the number change from Race '7' to Race '72'. She's race ready for a go at the April back yard endurance event. Power unit is HW Justock 13.5 FT (fixed timing) combo. Battery is standard length 2s x 5000 LiPo. Radio is Spektrum DX4C.

 

[RustyUs]

RC10T4 here with its new JConcepts Finnisher body. Custom paint by RC Bombshells. Completed the stickering yesterday and got RD approval on the number change from Race '7' to Race '72'. She's race ready for a go at the April back yard endurance event. Power unit is HW Justock 13.5 FT (fixed timing) combo. Battery is standard length 2s x 5000 LiPo. Radio is Spektrum DX4C.

View attachment 121480View attachment 121481

Great looking T4. Strutting around with pins and ribs... Yeah Boy!

Backyard and the term "endurance" got me curious. Involves lots of battery packs?

 

[ahr43]

Hey, HeavyBag. 'Strutting' and 'pins and ribs'. Good descript compliments. Thanks. Yeah, I think pins and ribs are what I like best about ST's.

Regarding 'endurance'. Have scaled back the scheduled April Special Test endurance event from what it originally was. Two things driving that change. One, need to see how the grass track holds up with four trucks running back-to-back instead of the usual one truck. Also, my first shot at running an endurance event, so am going to ease into it and get the procedures down before scheduling extended runs. My rules package does not allow for battery peaking or battery changes during normal events. So need to think about how to waiver battery changes on a Special Test event.

Regarding your above post on diff kits. Yes, noticed they have dropped off my Amain wish list. Probably an Ebay item now ($$!!). Fortunately, have one open bag and one NIB and my trucks don't take much abuse, so am set.

How goes it with your T4? Cheers. 'AC'

Oh! Below is "before' image of the T4 almost as it came off Ebay purchase.

 

[Tunedfrog]

Good lookin truck....

 

[RustyUs]

It was the first time, last night, that my T4.3 drove better than the T4.2FT. Probably in my head, but I could hold a line better in the rough stuff. So much fun now that I don't have to worry about shocks blowing out.

I'm gonna push the gear diff loaded T4.3 for as long as I can, because it has come to my attention that gear diff rebuild kits, and complete gear/ball diff assemblies are now discontinued. I'd be totally bummed if I had just bought a SC10.3, or the T4.3 and found out the news. There still is the ball diff that can be bought (pieced together separately) and used in these platforms, but who knows how long supplies out there will last.

Some good news... I purchased a few of the 91463 gear diff rebuild kits awhile back, and they fit perfectly in 9828 gear diff housings.

 

[RustyUs]

If purchasing a used T4, for whatever reason, or you have an older generation with pin driven rear/bearing front wheels, and you want to convert to hex wheels...the rear axles are easy to do. The front 7854 axles are impossible to find unless you buy a parts truck.

Thanks to D. Voorhies for the photos.

 

[RustyUs]

Top Shaft

IYKYK

 

[RetroThutmose]

I normally don't veer too far from box stock setups when it comes to Associated platforms. Even when I raced, I only made tiny adjustments to suite track. Pick the best tires and work from there has been my philosophy. I figure they (Team Associated) do the testing on their RCs; want the buyer to have a balanced platform, and so they come up with a general setup to cover a wide range of conditions.

Since I now have ball cups that allow me to position the ball studs without taking off the cups, it's so much easier to experiment without the fear of loosening/weakening the ballcups. The T4.3 has become my guinea pig as of late.

Going from one extreme to the other, on rear camber link, is my next attempt at finding the T4.3's sweet spot for my track. I went from the longest link to the shortest possible, and raised inner ball stud 1mm in hopes of getting a bit more traction.

What I really need is a fresh set of rear tires to lock in the rear, and that ain't happening until next season/spring. The Step Pins that are one there now are pretty much just steps...no pins . I have to deal with Mother Nature when it comes to track conditions. Going from a damp track to ultra dry surface, working its way to a layer of loose stuff, keeps me on my toes.

What are you using for ball studs? I took my t4.2 to the track and had the rear inner ball stud completely snap off the rear. I'm not sure I have any spares. I do have a n old b5m I can cannibalize for parts but haven't looked into that option yet. Everything searching by part number just comes up as discontinued

 

[RustyUs]

Ball Studs

What are you using for ball studs? I took my t4.2 to the track and had the rear inner ball stud completely snap off the rear. I'm not sure I have any spares. I do have a n old b5m I can cannibalize for parts but haven't looked into that option yet. Everything searching by part number just comes up as discontinued View attachment 257783

I've used Team Associated HD ball studs and B6 ball cups...

 

[RetroThutmose]

Ball Studs



I've used Team Associated HD ball studs and B6 ball cups...
View attachment 257785View attachment 257784
View attachment 257786

Thanks, so happy you keep this thread alive. I think I've seen your input on rctech too.

 

[RetroThutmose]

Ball Studs



I've used Team Associated HD ball studs and B6 ball cups...
View attachment 257785View attachment 257784
View attachment 257786

Do you know how many of each size you needed? They come in 10mm, 8, and 6mm. But not sure which to get for each component since the manual just says short or long for the standard stuff

 

[RustyUs]

What are you using for ball studs? I took my t4.2 to the track and had the rear inner ball stud completely snap off the rear. I'm not sure I have any spares. I do have a n old b5m I can cannibalize for parts but haven't looked into that option yet. Everything searching by part number just comes up as discontinued View attachment 257783

Hurray, you found the weakest part!
Hopefully you were able to get the threaded part out of the u-brace.

Do you know how many of each size you needed? They come in 10mm, 8, and 6mm. But not sure which to get for each component since the manual just says short or long for the standard stuff

No, I don't. I just keep a supply of Tekno, and Associated (91049) M3 ball studs on hand.

Tekno ball studs:

Team Associated ball studs:

 

[RetroThutmose]

Hurray, you found the weakest part!
Hopefully you were able to get the threaded part out of the u-brace.

No, I don't. I just keep a supply of Tekno, and Associated (91049) M3 ball studs on hand.

Tekno ball studs:
View attachment 257788View attachment 257790View attachment 257789
Team Associated ball studs:
View attachment 257797

No I haven't gotten it out of the brace, any suggestions? Kind of hoping I have a spare or can print one if it comes to that

 

[RustyUs]

No I haven't gotten it out of the brace, any suggestions? Kind of hoping I have a spare or can print one if it comes to that

Out of a slew of B4/T4/SC10s... I've only busted/snapped a few (maybe three) ball studs in the rear chassis brace. The earlier years, parts were plentiful, I just tossed the brace in the garbage. Jump ahead to 2020...

... a left hand drill bit has always been the game plan, but I've yet to get around to it.

 

[RetroThutmose]

Out of a slew of B4/T4/SC10s... I've only busted/snapped a few (maybe three) ball studs in the rear chassis brace. The earlier years, parts were plentiful, I just tossed the brace in the garbage. Jump ahead to 2020...
View attachment 257886
... a left hand drill bit has always been the game plan, but I've yet to get around to it.

I'll let you know how my efforts go. Not looking forward to it tbh.

 

[RetroThutmose]

@Rusty1 I got lucky. About 1mm of thread was poking through the bottom so I just grabbed with some vice grips and it spun freely. So relieved since I did not have a spare. I did find I have 3-4 sets of front arm spares if you need any

 

[RustyUs]

@Rusty1 I got lucky. About 1mm of thread was poking through the bottom so I just grabbed with some vice grips and it spun freely. So relieved since I did not have a spare. I did find I have 3-4 sets of front arm spares if you need any

My extraction wasn't pretty. I cut the raised part of the brace off to expose a few of the ball stud's remaining threads.

Actually, shaving/grinding the raised area off was a popular roll center mod. Team Associated even incorporated it into the setup sheet:

At least I got inside mounting locations to use on the brace again. Moving forward... I'll use longer threaded ball studs, so the threads protrude on the other side. Won't have problems getting a snapped ball stud out... IF situation happens again.

 

[RetroThutmose]

Cannibalized my b5m for the balls and cups! Big thanks for the tip!

 

[RustyUs]

View attachment 258119
Cannibalized my b5m for the balls and cups! Big thanks for the tip!

Most excellent. It looks like you took care of the front inner ball studs as well. I never got around to doing that, 'cause I am more of if it ain't broke... keep goin type of dudes Since you went ahead and did it... any ball cup rubbing on the tower?

That was always a concern if/when the time came to use larger "balls"