Team Associated RC10T4.x

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HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
Stadium trucks are, by far, my favorite RCs to run on a track. Been running this truck (T4.2) for a couple of years now. But, this year, I'm going for a truggy look while using some SCT tires and wheels on all four corners. After a bit of a panic attack that I would not be able to find "off-road" knobby ST tires for my T4s anymore, the SCT tire was my backup plan.
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I must say that after running the T4.2 with 2.2"/3.0" tires on, I don't think I'm going back to my normal ST tires anytime soon...at least not on my T4.2. The handling, for me anyways, isn't all that different from using standard 2.2" stadium truck tires. I run my RCs on a rough, and loose backyard track. Badlands & Gladiator SC tires = stupid fun for me getting my daily RC kicks.
 

D3MON

RCNT Addict
Messages
1,072
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
Beautiful truck! very clean, super clean.... too clean, way too clean! get some after/during run shots! :D
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
I always take some photos when I have a new ride, or change something up on existing RC. If I took the body off, you would see the T4.2 is quite weathered :thumbs-up:. I think the JConcepts semi cab-forward Finnisher body is so much better than cab-forward bulldog type bodies. I missed out on JConcepts' Finnisher bodies the first time around so I had the T4.2 FT as a shelf queen for the longest time, 'cause I couldn't stand looking at the stock body. When T4.3 came out, and JConcepts started producing the Finnisher body again, I sold all my Pro-Line Bulldog spare bodies , and bought some Finnisher bodies...my T4.2FT came outta retirement.

Oh, and, to use the Finnisher body on a T4.2FT, one has to put on standard T4 front shock tower which also means losing the gullwing arms. I was totally OK with that as I was not a huge fan of the gullwing arms. I will keep the arms for my SC10.2 as they seem to work fine for my rough track bashing needs.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
My T4.3 is "in the shop" for routine maintenance. It's the part of the hobby I take in stride, but it's got to be done. Tearing down a RC to clean, relube, and rebuild everything is time consuming...I just want to get outside and run in the dirt. To make playing with RC toys more fun, you gotta have more than one. Right?

My T4.3 was made mostly out of boredom, and too many eBay chop shop parts laying around. The biggest difference between an off the shelf T4.3, and the one I built, would be the shocks. I use some old old school Associated shocks on the truck. You know, the ones with the plastic snap rings inside to secure the o-ring package. They work, and they were like $11.98 for all four shocks shipped. What makes them bearable is the fact that they have bleeder caps. I have a set of V2 shocks waiting to be put on the T4.3 when I get sick and tired of messing with those snap rings.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
What the heck? I have some Traxxas collars laying around from the time I was wanting to put big bore springs on SC10. They're collecting dust, and a front set of "BB" springs that were left over from my SC10.2, everything is making their way onto the T4.3's front end. Ordered up some green rear springs, and we should be good to go.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
Cutting tires is way too much work for me. Dremeling knobs off (making bald tires) was bad enough. I never thought there would come a time where I would take perfectly good (new) tires, and destroy them to get traction :smuggrin:.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
As I wait for the rear springs to arrive, I have to investigate the tranny. The last couple of runs with the T4.3 was oversteer city. I'm hoping the gear diff didn't leak all of it's fluid out, and the oversteering issue was the result of front end suspension changes that I had made.

I normally run 5k fluid in the Associated gear diff, but may jump to 20k just to see how drastic of a change I'll see. Now, 20k fluid, in my other stadium truck (Evader), is perfect for everyday trashing on the rough med/low grip track. I was a bit shocked to see 20k recommended in the Brushless Evader's manual. I hardly ever read anyone using any diff fluid thicker than 5k in the T4/SC10 diff.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
I hurried down to Post Office to pick up our hold mail/package. I put them big ol' springs on the itty bitty (10mm) shocks, and, Dude, I can't believe how much smoother a shock feels when you don't have springs rubbin' on the shock bodies. And to think, I put up with it all these years. I guess a person gets numb to it? We'll go with that story. I should have done this years ago when I had ordered the Traxxas collars.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
One shock was being a problem child. I can only get in two runs before wetness appears on spring cup. I fill shock back up and repeat. Weird. Possibility of torn o-ring when I jammed shaft through it? Will rebuild again with new seals and slather on the slime I guess.

Trying to see if e-clip slipped off, and I found lots of play around piston when shaft is fully extended. I don't remember that much of a gap around the pistons when the shocks were new. Oh well.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
I just about had it with them V1 blue RTR rear shocks. The damping is worlds apart when comparing them to my SC10FT's V2 shocks. Same pistons (rear), and same wt oil used. Yet, my T4.3 feels like it has less damping in the rear. Just doesn't seem right. So, I changed the rear pistons to the #2 holes.

We had rain showers everyday which lead me nowhere to my RCing happy place. Last night I finally got out to test the flight characteristics of the T4.3. So far, so good. I really thought the truck would not like the new pistons. Level flight, when I hit the jumps correctly, and way less chassis slap. The slapping was getting super annoying before I change the pistons out.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
Drilled the 4th/"0" hole in the rear shock towers, as well as swapping out toe block/anti squat shim. Moved rear hub carriers to get shortest wheelbase. Then shaved the U-brace down. Too many changes at once, I know. I really want this truck to be outta whack next time I run it
.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
In the trash with them old school blue RTR v1 shocks. Must have been made the same time my threaded Factory Team shocks were made, 'cause they too blew out the snap ring. Easy enough fix (sand down middle spacer). I just don't want to deal with the snap ring anymore. After getting the V2 shocks on, we were back in business.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
I normally don't veer too far from box stock setups when it comes to Associated platforms. Even when I raced, I only made tiny adjustments to suite track. Pick the best tires and work from there has been my philosophy. I figure they (Team Associated) do the testing on their RCs; want the buyer to have a balanced platform, and so they come up with a general setup to cover a wide range of conditions.

Since I now have ball cups that allow me to position the ball studs without taking off the cups, it's so much easier to experiment without the fear of loosening/weakening the ballcups. The T4.3 has become my guinea pig as of late.

Going from one extreme to the other, on rear camber link, is my next attempt at finding the T4.3's sweet spot for my track. I went from the longest link to the shortest possible, and raised inner ball stud 1mm in hopes of getting a bit more traction.

What I really need is a fresh set of rear tires to lock in the rear, and that ain't happening until next season/spring. The Step Pins that are one there now are pretty much just steps...no pins :hehe:. I have to deal with Mother Nature when it comes to track conditions. Going from a damp track to ultra dry surface, working its way to a layer of loose stuff, keeps me on my toes.
 

D3MON

RCNT Addict
Messages
1,072
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
i have to say, it is really interesting following your experiences with adjustments for racing etc, and how/what you change in order to accomplish what you are going for, especially coming from someone (me) that doesn't know alot about racing and how certain aspects, especially with the geometry affect the handling and what you would be adjusting to achieve that.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
I don't "race" anymore. Gave that up (sadly) in search of clubs to play at while in a band. Just as SC10/Slash short course racing was growing, I exited the racing scene.

I have been blessed with wife and house/land that let me build a backyard track. That track is my "happy place" after a good/bad day of work. The track is now super rough and over powering my RCs is pointless. A 13.5T, or 3100kv motor on 2S is about the maximum powerplant I can use while the tires are searching for traction...using medium compound most of the time.

I like using racing breeds for my RC "bashing" needs. Besides, today's kit offerings are slim when it comes to bashers. Take Tamiya and Kyosho's re-res out of the equation, and most kits are made for racing with exceptions here, and there. I'm okay with that 'cause I like my hard anodized, big bore shocks, and milled parts.

Like I said before, my T4.3 was built mainly out of boredom out of eBay chop shop parts. I just wish the shocks on the T4.3 would have lived up to original T4/B4 dampers that I was used to. Money wasted...move on HeavyBag. Lesson learned.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
The other night I had three RCs go down for the count. Two platforms had breakage, and/or blown bearings and my T4.3 is just scheduled for routine maintenance.

While I tore the shocks apart for cleaning/rebuilding, I put #2 pistons in the rear, and #3 pistons (holes drilled out to 1.25mm) in the front. Going from a #2 piston to a #3 piston is a greater step than going from a #1 piston to a #2 piston. By me drilling the holes out, I am hopeful to get the right damping/pack balance needed for the front of my T4.3. I like to try to keep shock oil weight the same front/rear, and adjust damping needed by swapping out pistons. Sometimes, it's just not possible.
 

HeavyBag

RCNT Racer
Messages
98
Ugh! The gear diff is very sensitive to how tightly you crank down on the tranny case screws. I thought I had a loose enough tranny case for the diff gear to move freely, but after tightening down all the chassis screws that hold the tranny in place, I can feel some resistance while turning the spur gear. Hoping a few bumps and jarring of chassis will loosen things up.
 

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