starting up

[pralexander]

Ok I'm about to purchase my first buggy. Looks like it'll be an ofna hyper ss RTR. should I invest in a starter tool kit as well? What types of cleaner and lubricant should I get? Mats or stands to put the buggy on? Anything to help out for maintenance and cleaning.

 

[Surlyman]

Sorry I didn't see your new thread or I would'a replied over yonder.

Even if you have some tools already, having a dedicated set for your RC to take with you to the track/field is essential. I don't race so there is probably some stuff the racer crowd keeps with them that I don't.

But start with something to carry your gear with. I use a cheap open top tool bag from Harbor Freight to carry the main stuff. There are quite a few HF's in Indiana. Has many pockets inside and out for easy access of tools, and has enough open space to hold 2 quarts of fuel, fuel bottle, a transmitter, extra batteries, any extra small parts I deem necessary, and a beverage. They also make small portable storage containers on the cheap that I use to hold replacement parts, although I usually don't take it with me, if something breaks I grab my other truck or call it a day.
http://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage.html

As for tools to go inside it, you will need a glow ignitor, fuel bottle, good #1-2 Philips and Flat-blade screwdrivers, a 4 way wrench, some smaller needle nose pliers, and some good hex drivers, I would say you could go cheaper on the hex drivers if you have a bench grinder or a heavy file as they can be ground down as the tip wears. Otherwise, spend the money on a good set because they can wear out quickly I like "T" handle hex wrenches. I also carry some rags, a small flashlight, various size zip ties, some CA glue, and some after run oil. The last sort of optional thing would be non-contact thermometer. A person shouldn't tune for temperate, but a temp gun helps for break-in and for peace of mind while they are running and tuning and another thing I get from HF,
http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-infrared-thermometer-with-laser-targeting-69465-8905.html
We have compared it with a Fluke brand unit that is triple the cost we use at our shop and everyone laughed at the fact that as far as anyone could tell, it was the same unit, and were within a one or two degrees of each other. Most likely not made by either company and just labeled and colored for them.

As for lubes and cleaners, in addition to the after run oil, I keep a can of general purpose automotive grease around the RC table for the ends of driveshafts and such. For cleaning a lot of times hot water, a old tooth brush, and dish soap is all thats needed. Dish soap has a very high detergent content that cuts grease/oil/wax. (don't wash your car with it)
I've also been using this stuff when I don't want take more than the engine/electronics out with great results.
http://www.amazon.com/Berryman-1133-B-33-Engine-Degreaser/dp/B004QCDAP0 Just spray it on, let it sit for about 30 sec, and hose it off. It won't be show ready but it will be clean.

Lastly I made a stand out of PVC piping, you can do that, or use a tool box, a piece of 4x4, anything really. Or there are retail options available.

 

[Greywolf74]

definitely dont want to go cheap on your hex drivers. as I mention in your other thread.
As for the degreaser you can do that but make sure not to spray it on bearings (and I dont mean just wheel bearings) and make sure you use an air compressor after you hose it off to completely dry the car to minimize the possibility of rust. make sure to check and maintanence bearings regularly if you use this method of cleaning. Also as a side note if you want to clean this way a 50/50 mix of simple green and water will do the same job for less money.

 

[Surlyman]

I second the air compressor, or shake it off real good in every direction if you don't have one handy. Once one pulls the engine there really isn't too many exposed bearings on most cars, but like greywolf said, don't saturate the axle carriers, or any bearings one can see. Cartridge bearings are pretty well sealed for the most part, but not completely. I periodically will remove my wheel bearings, soak them in gasoline, then soak them in a lubricating oil, wipe off the excess and let them sit on a towel for bit. I would also recommend metal shielded bearings over the plastic shielded ones when it comes time for replacement.

Simple Green is quite cheap by the gallon and will last along time when mixed down, but it doesn't quite melt stuff away. The B33 stuff I linked earlier will only last 1-2 cleanings per can so it is more expensive, but dang this stuff takes grime and oil build-up off with no scrubbing, no fuss. I've even cleaned a car (minus engine/electronics) in my girlfriends kitchen sink with nothing more than the B33 and hot running tap water. I saw it on a shelf and gave it a try because it said it was safe on everything. I guess think of it more as a car wash in a can, if a one is away from HQ ect. But like I said earlier, simple dish soap and a tooth brush will make it squeaky clean.

If you know of a place that you can obtain Share corp products they have a degreaser called Formula-10. We use it at the dealership I work at for just about everything, its top-notch second to none.

 

[pralexander]

Looks like I'll be doing some rearranging in the garage then to make some workspace!

 

[Greywolf74]

yeah better make lots of room! hahahaha

As for bearing shielding its just personal preference really. Metal shielding has one advantage, they dont produce as much drag as rubber shielded bearings.
Rubber shielding can be removed so you can clean and re-grease/re-oil the bearings. If this is done on a regular basis the rubber shielded will last longer than metal shielded but they do create more drag than metal shielded.
I like to use teflon shielded bearings when I can get them because the teflon shield is removable so you can clean the bearings and keep them operational longer and they also dont produce any extra drag like the rubber shielded bearings do.

 

[Rolex]

Looks like I'll be doing some rearranging in the garage then to make some workspace!

It's Man Cave time.

 

[ninnon]

Looks like I'll be doing some rearranging in the garage then to make some workspace!

To be honest I'm a bit of a cheapskate when it comes to accessories, I just use high quality tools and oils (silicone) but I don't see the point in spending £50 on a silly carry case unless you're racing them- it could be spent on a new servo or something....

 

[pralexander]

So for racing is a .21 or .28 better? What's the best over all for a beginner?

I just want to be competitive at club races.

 

[ninnon]

So for racing is a .21 or .28 better? What's the best over all for a beginner?

If the car came with .21 then keep it, you probably won't notice the difference if you've never experienced Nitro RC, and as for .28- they have more torque, but use more fuel which means less track time for racing. The most common decision is .21- and for you it's sufficient- you'll still love Nitro RC!

 

[hamz9561]

For degreasing, my choice is Simple Green and water and then blown dry with air as mentioned above. Most clubs that I've seen racing buggies spec the .21 size motor, so I'd stick with that.

 

[pralexander]

Ok because I was looking at the ofna hyper ss or the x3 sabre and they have .28 I'm open to any other suggestions. Obviously as a beginne I'd like a rtr kit.

 

[ninnon]

Ok because I was looking at the ofna hyper ss or the x3 sabre and they have .28 I'm open to any other suggestions. Obviously as a beginne I'd like a rtr kit.

Well there's the HPI Trophy 3.5, or the Hyper 7

 

[BamaFan]

My local track won't allow any engine to be raced bigger than a .21. You can play all you want but they don't have a class for engine size any bigger. I'm sure every track is different but that's there house rules.

 

[hamz9561]

If it's an RTR kit with the .28, there shouldn't be a problem with it.

 

[pralexander]

Well there's the HPI Trophy 3.5, or the Hyper 7

So you suggest the hpi or hyper 7 instead?

 

[ninnon]

So you suggest the hpi or hyper 7 instead?

Now, let me tell you something...
I am slightly biased towards the trophy 3.5 because I think it looks better, is more reliable and is much stronger than the Hyper 7, plus HPI's customer service is phenomenal. I'd go for the Trophy 3.5 but thats my opinion

 

[pralexander]

@ninnon I will definitely say the hpi might have pulled ahead for sure.

 

[hamz9561]

I'm not impressed by the quality and quality control of the newer HPI kits. I'd go with the Hyper 7.

 

[ninnon]

I'm not impressed by the quality and quality control of the newer HPI kits. I'd go with the Hyper 7.

Mines a 2012 model, and by heck has it taken a beating, at a skate park I crashed it into a concrete wall 3/4 throttle- nothing damaged, did a massive jump from 13 foot- landed so the suspension bottomed out- no damage. But then again, that's your opinion and it's different to mine