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My e-z start Last quit a few starts I dont know exactly but when I first got my maxx I was running it everyday 4-10 times a day... winter time so it was hard to just stay out there all day when its like 0-20 degrees.. but anyways I always have an extra battey for those just incase moments.. I would get pretty close to a week before it needed charging.... If you want to go to pullstart you will need a glow igniter for the glow plug.. you just stick that on there and pull her over... I have bought a lipo glow igniter I went almost 2 weeks before I needed to charge it!!!!
 
My e-z start Last quit a few starts I dont know exactly but when I first got my maxx I was running it everyday 4-10 times a day... winter time so it was hard to just stay out there all day when its like 0-20 degrees.. but anyways I always have an extra battey for those just incase moments.. I would get pretty close to a week before it needed charging.... If you want to go to pullstart you will need a glow igniter for the glow plug.. you just stick that on there and pull her over... I have bought a lipo glow igniter I went almost 2 weeks before I needed to charge it!!!!

I'm headed to the LHS in a little while (thank god they are open on sundays, or I would have nothing to do today). If the batteries are cheap enough, I'll pick up a few of those and keep the EZ start.

I had a busy morning though:

I redid all of the fuel lines. Added heat shielding for one coming from the exhaust to the tank, because it comes close to the engine. And on the feed I installed the filter and a fuel shutoff.

Then I cut the stock AA battery holder off the stock switch and added J plugs to that, then replaced the switch with a harness from my planes. Also mounted a charge jack on the truck. Now, instead of being dependent on 1 power source, I can plug the truck into a charger overnight and charge the cells that are in there (which aren't 1600mAh, they turned out to be 2200, so they should last a while). If those die while I am using the truck, I can easily swap in regular AA batteries. Or, I can always unplug the regular AA holder and plug a hump pack into the J connector.

So all in all it was a pretty productive morning! :D

Bad news though. Shocks leak a little. So besides teh EZ start kit, I'm gonna need some rebuild kits and some shock oil... I hope they have the parts necessary. I've been trying to get this up and running for so long, if I don't get it started today I think I will go nuts.
 
I hea you there... my first maxx I got is not starting for me for some reason.. I think I need to seel the carb cause it feels alittle loose for some reason.. and I am trying to get that jato together I want to be out bashing her !!!!!
Good luck and I hope everything goes well for you !!!

I always forget about that freaken bearing in there l.o.l. that does mess alot of stuf up when it goes.. but doesn't it just let the starter spin and not spin the motor when that bearing goes??
 
TBH I was kind of assuming that that was the problem. After I charged it, I tried to start the car. The engine started to turn over a little bit, but I don't think it was fast enough to start the car. After maybe 30 seconds of trying, the lights on the starting wand died and the motor refused to try and turn over the engine. Both still spin freely, so I don't see anything else that it could possibly be.

How long should that wand battery last? As in, how many starts can you typically get before you recharge it? If it's only like 3 or 4, then I'm definitely getting the pull start (as I said, I hate charging batteries.) But if it's closer to 10 and up, then I'll keep it.

If your one way bearing is good and not slipping, then a fully charged wand battery should last you the whole day of riding your tmaxx, around 6-8 starts (thats what I normally get out of my old battery. If your one way bearing is worn out, it will look as though your wand battery is dead when you are trying to start it up (the wand lights will come on and motor will stop turning over), but it is just because your one way is slipping under load. You should be able to turn over the motor quite easily with the wand if it is fully charged.

BTW, your shocks might not be bad, you might have just filled them too high or pinched the diaphram inside the shock when doing it back up......they can be pretty finicky.
 
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When I had the engine off I played around with it a little bit, and the one way bearing seemed like it was fine. Plus, when I tried to start it with the wand, it was working for a but, then the lights dimmed and finally died, which is why I expect it to be the battery.

Stupid question here: Is there a certain position (up/down) the piston should be in order to start?
 
not really but most say bdc (bottem dead center) I think
 
When I had the engine off I played around with it a little bit, and the one way bearing seemed like it was fine. Plus, when I tried to start it with the wand, it was working for a but, then the lights dimmed and finally died, which is why I expect it to be the battery.

Stupid question here: Is there a certain position (up/down) the piston should be in order to start?

Dont know if it makes a difference, I have never worried about piston positioning when starting, just put the wand in and fire it up, but mtaylortank could be right.
 
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I have never had to mess with the piston just fire it up or pull her over which ever way it gets started l.o.l
 
So the problem was definitely that battery. Picked up a 4000 mAh (go big or go home) from my LHS for the EZ start wand, and it actually starts the car now. Also rebuilt all of my shocks and filled them with oil (again). And discovered that when I reinstalled one of the differentials, I accidentally did so upside-down, so I'm happy I caught that.

But, by the time I was ready to finally start the car, I looked at the clock and it was like 10pm and already pitch black out.... so there I was outside in my driveway, flood lights making my front yard look like a stadium, trying to start the damn thing. It will start, but it quits out after a few seconds. I also hear a clicking noise, that corresponds to the spur gear wiggling back and fourth. And it also doesn't seem to idle very low.

I think it's a combo of the idle not being set right, the slipper being adjusted wrong (haven't figured out if its too tight or too loose), and the car just having sat for a while. Sitting outside trying this past 10pm got old real fast, so I gave up for today. Tomorrow I'm gonna have to look up specs or everything, set everything back to factory, and start from scratch... gonna be a long morning.


Anyone have any suggestions/tips/ideas to make this go a little smoother?
 
So the problem was definitely that battery. Picked up a 4000 mAh (go big or go home) from my LHS for the EZ start wand, and it actually starts the car now. Also rebuilt all of my shocks and filled them with oil (again). And discovered that when I reinstalled one of the differentials, I accidentally did so upside-down, so I'm happy I caught that.

But, by the time I was ready to finally start the car, I looked at the clock and it was like 10pm and already pitch black out.... so there I was outside in my driveway, flood lights making my front yard look like a stadium, trying to start the damn thing. It will start, but it quits out after a few seconds. I also hear a clicking noise, that corresponds to the spur gear wiggling back and fourth. And it also doesn't seem to idle very low.

I think it's a combo of the idle not being set right, the slipper being adjusted wrong (haven't figured out if its too tight or too loose), and the car just having sat for a while. Sitting outside trying this past 10pm got old real fast, so I gave up for today. Tomorrow I'm gonna have to look up specs or everything, set everything back to factory, and start from scratch... gonna be a long morning.


Anyone have any suggestions/tips/ideas to make this go a little smoother?

Setting the needles back to factory settings is a good start, sounds like it might be running a bit rich. As far as the slipper goes, tighten it down and back it off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Also, just to be safe, you might want to check your gear mesh while your in there. The spur gear wiggling back and forth is normal, they all do that.

Good luck!!
 
Set everything back to the factory specs aaaannnnnddd.....

noticed a spring poking out from underneath the clutch bell. I don't feel like talking it apart right now, maybe later tonight. Hopefully the spring just slipped off, and I don't need to rebuild it. If not, I guess I'll just pay another visit to the shop tomorrow. I'll know for sure later.


Someone does not want me to drive this car =[
 
Set everything back to the factory specs aaaannnnnddd.....

noticed a spring poking out from underneath the clutch bell. I don't feel like talking it apart right now, maybe later tonight. Hopefully the spring just slipped off, and I don't need to rebuild it. If not, I guess I'll just pay another visit to the shop tomorrow. I'll know for sure later.


Someone does not want me to drive this car =[

Yeah, thats just the clutch spring, should be able to just reattach it, check that it is going to reconnect properly, or you will have to get a new one of those as well. Try to clean the inside of the CB when you take it off to put the spring back, to be sure to have good contact between the CB and the clutch shoes.

Dont get dicouraged, this is normal for a used truck to have to work out the bugs and get used to working on it.
 
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^^ That'll do it

To the LHS!
 
+1 on the mystery oil....
most upper level fuels like byron, and odonnells wont really need it.....but cheap fuels will gum up like diesel gelling....

and de-chlorinated brake cleaner works like nitro blast "find it @ any auto parts store"
 
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^^ That'll do it

To the LHS!

Your lucky!! When my clutch spring broke on me, the clutch shoes held wide open on the CB and eventually one of them came loose from the peg on the flywheel. The momentum of it coming off pushed it into the CB and knocked them both off, the clutch shoe broke into ten different pieces and flew everywhere. The CB ate a notch in the side of the tranny case.:whhooo:
 
what is that spring that is rapped around your motor???
 
Here's another view of the engine. The spring apparently holds on the exhaust. (Which is currently filthy)

And I just found out my LHS is closed today. I'm telling you, someone does not want me to drive this thing. :(


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