Soldering help

[Greywolf74]

I replacing my gensacearespammers bananna connectors with Deans conectors. I have a feeling something isnt right but IDK for sure. I've been teaching myself how to solder working with smaller 14 gauge wire and when I go to tin those wires the solder most starts flowing in a matter of seconds and sometimes i end up with a bald spot on one side of the wire....no big deal flip it over for a sec and its done. when i solder the the wire to the deans connector I tin my iron i tad and place it on the back of the deans connector and hold the wire on top....sgsin within a few seconds the solder all the thewire melts and nice connection.

When I try to tin the 12 gauge wire from the batteries it doesn't want to tin....i can get the wire hot as hell and the solder doesn't want to flow into it....at best it just wants to clump or sometimes it doesn't even want to melt....I'm using a 40 watt soldering station on max temp. when I finallly get some solder on teh wire I try and put it on the deans. the solder on the connecor melts as does the solder on that side of the wire touching the deans but the solder on top doesn't melt. it seems like a strong connection but not the connection I'm used to seeing with the smaller gauge wire. I tried a 60watt soldering gun and all I did was melt the deans. its too hot.


Any one have any advide on that?

 

[hamz9561]

It's been recommended by a few of the guys on here to use an old Dean's connector on the other side of the one that you're soldering to prevent the melting issue. I've used it and it works fine. Also remember that a larger gauge wire will require more heat.

 

[trax de max]

On the wires that is ready to be tinned don't twist them with your fingers first, before applying the solder. Just pull them straight with fingers.

That should soak up the solder before getting the wires to hot and damaging the battery.
With the wires twisted the solder can't work its way through all the strands and just does the outside, Leaving clumps by anyone forcing more solder onto the only strands that can take any solder and thats the outside strands.
Yea for using the opposite connector plugged in, so that the plastic housing doesn't melt.

 

[Rolex]

Flux. You've got to use flux. Lightly sand the tabs on the Deans connector and brush a light coat of flux on them. On the wire, just dip it in flux and then tin it.
The secret to solder, besides using an iron of the proper temperature, is that the piece being soldered must be physically clean (sanding) AND chemically clean (flux).

 

[Greywolf74]

OK I think I'm figuring this out now....I switched to a 60W iron and learned that if I put a little solder around where the wire is touching the iron first it aids greatly in spreading heat and solder will start flowing in no time.

I also learned to take the heat away when the solder starts flowing into the wire.....its kinda like taking your foot off the gas lol. if the solder stops flowing hit with the iron again fr a sec and bam! Flowing again!...keeps the heat from reaching the battery as much if at all.

I also started doing the male inside the female and also vise grips on the male metal tab to further help pull the heat through.....the solder melts all the way through quickly.....I wasn't seeing it before because I didn't have enough solder on the wire and the wire is already silver so i couldn't tell. I think I have a good handle on it now. At least I'm hoping I'm doing this right. lol

One question though if I short the two leads momentarily when removing the vice grips do I have to worry about damaging the battery if it was only for a fraction of a second? Man that some wicked power...messed up my vice grips and the male connector
Battery seem ok....its been about 15 minutes and its not getting hot or anything....reading proper voltage.

Thanks for the help guys...

 

[Rolex]

A quick flash won't hurt, but in the future you'll need to make sure that they are insulated from each other. A dead short could cause the battery to explode.

 

[trax de max]

Yea i forgot about the flux. I don't use it but it does help if your new to it. Also tin the soldering iron tip before the soldering work and wipe clean with wet sponge when needed.
Try not to touch the + and - together. Do one then put heat shrink around the one you just did then start the next for deans.
Traxxas ones are a pain but good, you need something to hold the pin while soldering, I used an adjustable spanner. (The jigs was to much money for what they do).

 

[ChiefGeek]

I actually find traxxas to be far easier then most. It's nice in that you dont have to worry about any plastic melting on the connector and that all the "blades" are the same, just solder em and shove em in the proper side of the plug which is labeled.

 

[trax de max]

the "blades" is either marked A (male) and marked B (female) soldering past solder limit line and they don't fit in.

 

[ChiefGeek]

I don't remember any a or b, will look. But yea the soldering past the line is true, didn't say they were completely idiot proof lol
You do have to solder on one side, not the other I believe. Regardless I fund them to be one of the easiest almost-idiot-proof connectors. Will be looking for a/b tonight.

 

[trax de max]

Yep one side has the keyed area the other is smooth from what i remember.