Self Sufficient Starter Box

[ThunderTiger]

Ever wanted to go for a "Quick Spin" but can't be hassled to grab a fuel bottle, glow charger and a handfull of tools ? well, maybe this is what you need. The only thing i have NOT shown (yet) is the tool tray and what it contains.

So, getting down to business, 4 1/2 years ago my fiancee bought a starter box, so until she got her "Rig", i got to use it. This is basically what i did. I completed it 4 years ago around 5 months after it was purchased and after i got bored with carrying fuel and everything else plus this box. I also got bored of flat batteries.

Within the last day or two i have only just got around to cleaning it properly inside and so that i could photograph it, which meant removing EVERYTHING inside, including the wiring harness i made up for it and the switch panel, which gave rise to the chance to photograph the steps i took and what i installed back when i first carried out the work. Wierd thing is, my fiancee didn't mind me doing it, as she got to "Keep" the starter box "as is" for her rig whilst i did the work and payed out for the extras.


Well, I took the starter box and removed the motor and everything else so that this is what i had, which is when i doused it with "Gunk", showered it off and made sure t was clean.

When everything was dry, I added two 1800MAh 7.2VDC Race Paks (Later wired in series for 14.4VDC)

Then a 12VDC Lead Acid Battery

A 360cc Fuel Cell

A 12VDC Fuel Pump

Re-Fitted the motor

And wired it all up to this switch panel

I also added a glow starter wand, so that i remembered to unplug it from the buggy before i took it off the starter. This is also now a dual powered device. It is now powered by either an on board battery or a normal glow plug starter.

And here is a video as proof that it all works (havent shown the remote glow starter working though)

The fuel pump works while the starting motor is running. I have wired the starter and fuel pump for dual power source from a single switch, so that either unit runs via the race packs or 12VDC Lead Acid Battery.


Anyway, let me know your thoughts. Is it overkill or forwards thinking ?


NO, it is not being converted to LiPo ! :

 

[Bartek]

very nice and clever! just got everything there needed to start the engine!
but it must be damn heavY!

 

[ThunderTiger]

What gives it weight, moreso than anything else, is that lead acid battery. If i can sort out some long lasting racepaks, that heavy Lead Acid Battery will be a thing of the past.

 

[olds97_lss]

What's with all the switches? You have a pump, starter motor and heater. But you have 8 switches that I can see.

Also, what are the 7.2 packs for? In case the lead acid battery goes dead on you?

Looks nice and handy though. Was just curious what the extra stuff was for.

 

[ThunderTiger]

6 switches, including one as a spare !

Race paks are back-ups, but also give more speed for a quicker turn-over of the engine.

 

[solly69]

wow that looks heavy
but great idea though

mabey 1 should be made with a smaller battery BUT make it rechargable so that the battery doesn't have to be quiet as big

thats just my thought anyways

 

[ThunderTiger]

All the batteries ARE rechargeable. The way i have it wired, is tso that i hook the charger to the auxillery ports on the side, set the switches to charge the correct battery and job done !!


I will have to get a pic up with the details of which switches do what.

 

[solly69]

ohh ok sorry i wasn't aware of that my bad

i was just trying to think of a way to keep the weight down a little bit... if the batterys are rechargable then couldnt they be smaller and not have to hold quiet as much charge because u can just stick it on charge when uve finished for the day
i may be wrong i do not know much about this... in fact i do not know much about anything when it comes to nitro rc but yea just trying to help

still a great idea though

 

[ThunderTiger]

Ok, heres the descriptive pic.

The switch circled in Pink Is the "battery Type" switch. With the switch to the left the battery choice is "Lead Acid", With the switch to right the battery choice is "Race Packs"

The switch circled in blue marked “On Off” is the switch to “Switch Out” the batteries when using an auxillery power source.

The Switch circled in purpe is the “Power Source” switch. With the switch “Up” the power is from the “Auxillery” ports. With the switch “Down” the power is from the Batteries.

The Switch Circled Green is the Auxillery power source switch. “Up” is “On” and “Down” is Off

The Switch Circled “Orange” is the Remote Glow Stick Switch. Down to the left is “Auxillery Glow Stick Power” up to the right is “Onboard Battery Power”.

The Switch circled in Red is the spare switch.

 

[olds97_lss]

I thought you had a switch on the side as well. I also thought the thing to the left of the "Battery Type" switch was a switch. What is that thing?

That's a lot of connections!

 

[ThunderTiger]

I thought you had a switch on the side as well. I also thought the thing to the left of the "Battery Type" switch was a switch. What is that thing?

That's a lot of connections!

The "Thing" to the left of the battery type switch is a "Dummy Glow Plug" or "power Input" (depending how you view it) for the remote Glow Stick.

There is indeed a switch to the side and thats the one for the fuel pump.

A Lot of connections ? not compared to the speaker switching box i built a few years ago. 15 switches, two input sources and then the output. Talk about get confused when i was wiring it all up !!!

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Pretty darn cool, Tiger. Sure is way more convenient then lugging all that equipment in a separate bag/tool box. I'm sure if somebody wanted to do the same type of build, the switches wouldn't be as confusing to them because it would be their own lay out.

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah... sorry about that. I really do like the idea though. I've never used a starter box, but having an all in one would be handy.

 

[ThunderTiger]

Metalhead, once you get used to the switches and their purpose, it just becomes automatic.

When i want to charge it, i just flick the green switch to the UP position and choose the appropriate battery type.


If i want to use auxillery power, i switch the blue, purple and green switches to the "up" position.

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Sure sounds pretty simple. I have the same starter box sitting on a shelf brand new, because I don't have a bump started vehicle! I'll reference this thread for sure if/when I ever use it. Great idea and info.

 

[ThunderTiger]

What brand is the darn thing then ?? never have known, even when new it had no labels or packaging, been wondering about it for years.

I also been looking for another one the same, but i can not find one for looking. I'd love one for myself, especially since it has a tool draw on it.


It's a pitty you live statside otherwise i'd have made you an offer for yours !!! lol

 

[Metalhead Matt]

I think the only difference is mine has a chrome top. Mine's a Ofna 1/8 with a large 12 volt motor. The motor looks like a lawn mower starter! Works really nice, though I only used it to start my buddy's Rc10GT. Once I got it running right, he took it back!

 

[ThunderTiger]

I had wondered about that motor !!!! is there anyway to swap it out for dual 540 or 770 motors ? or would i be best to leave it, as it is ?

I had to mill my chassis out to elongate the slot around the flywheel to use it. i'm so used to the milled chassis, it doesn't bother me now.

 

[superdave2]

i think that its pretty cool

 

[dj_doogle]

so were do the tools go then mate? ur a lil smart arse arnt u haha cool idea thow!