returning to RC racing (offroad electric)

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vegas7o2

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I used to have a rc10t2 back in the day lol it was right when the 8ths scale gas "buggies" or whatever they were techincally considered were BLOWING UP when I got out.

I have since had a son and hes almost 6 I would really like to get back into r/c cars so I can get myself a bit more active !

in any case I prefer trucks as they dont roll as much and are easier for me, I will go back to buggies etc once I am used to it all again.

With that being said I wanted to know where to start. I have to buy everything over again - before I used a light bulb setup soldered to decharge, and I actually made a dc power supply from an atx power supply..
I have to start over completely so please anyone that has been in this position before I appreciate any help as I am really hoping someone points me in the right direction.

I have a hobby town usa here and I used to buy battery cells and assemble my own batteries before to save on battery costs which seemed to help a lot. I do not plan to get rid of this stuff until I die this time ;)

It seems we have a ASQC track here for quarter scales which is WAY to big for me. and sep facility with indoor carpet track that looks really neat. needless to say I'm very excited. I used to spend all day at the rc track from the time they opened until closing as a kid!

I am about to buy a classic 40w Weller soldering iron to kick off the shopping unless there is something "better" now - they are around 33$ on amazon currently
 
What classes run at the track where you want to race at? (most tracks seem to be 1/8 where I live)

If you want to be competitive in racing at the track then you will likely need to stick with the racing "kit" brands:
Losi
Team Associated
Tekno
Mugen
XRay

1/8 electrics are amazing these days both very durable and very fast with the newer LiPo battery technology. They have incredible power compared to the NiMh packs back in the day.

Used on eBay tends to be a great option for a setup at a fraction of the price. Something like a Losi 8ight e is hard to beat for the price and its abilities. Just watch out for the version number as older models have less and less parts available as time goes on.

-Liberty
 
Most of the things I'm about to say are geared towards the track racing aspect of the hobby.

As Liberty mentioned, check what classes are run at your local track before deciding on a vehicle type.

Team Associated and TLR are great companies to go with as they make a vehicle that fits into each class, has great support. Another thing to check at your local track is what everyone else is running mainly. Not so much to be competitive with them, but the simple fact that you'll have a lot of people to ask questions in person who can and will most likely be glad to help you out if need be. Any issues you may have, setup tips, etc.

Used rollers are a great way to start out but building your own kit if you can afford or actually do will help you learn your vehicle much better.

I use the weller 40 watt and have had no issues with anything 10th scale I have needed it for. This is the exact one I have and prob the one you're looking at as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC

Make sure you get decent lipo batteries and something to store/charge them in. Lipo bags are cheap and worth it. I personally like SMC batteries but if on a budget, I have 2x ZEEE power batteries I got on Amazon I use in my TLR 2.0 2wd race buggy and have been very satisfied with them.

https://www.amazon.com/Zeee-4600mAh-Hardcase-Connector-Vehicles/dp/B07F8T1NYQ

Just make sure to get a decent charger with an actual display so you can see whats going on with them while you charge, has a storage charge feature, and also shows your individual cell voltages.


You'll also want a good set of hex and bolt drivers. Don't skimp or you'll be buying more after they strip out. You def want a set of hand tools as well even if you have an electric driver on hand. You always want to tighten by hand or you'll be stripping out screws left and right.

If racing you'll also need a good transponder which can be pricey so just a heads up on that. Most tracks use the MyLaps system and transponders are around $90 and almost never go on sale, ever.


Be prepared for the money pit that is RC, lol. There's always going to be little things you need to pick up and it all adds up.

If just getting back into the hobby without racing first, there's plenty of decent starter options. I would look at the Arrma stuff if anything for that end, and stay well the hell AWAY from Traxxas. I can't stress that enough. All marketing and completely crap products. Don't fall into that trap from the getgo and start with something "decent."
 
Traxxas makes many good products. Hpi equally as much so and so is arrma. Many of its rival’s fanboys think otherwise which is understandable due to their marketing and lawsuits. However, Traxxas doesn’t make a truck in the category that you’re looking for. All of their trucks are a high center of gravity and more of a basher’s type.
 
Traxxas makes many good products. Many of its rival’s fanboys think otherwise which is understandable due to their marketing and lawsuits.

I've owned Traxxas vehicles and luckily just sold my last one. Never again, Nothing but money pits designed to break easily. Not a 'rival fanboy" at all and have way more reasons to dislike them than just their strongarm lawyer tactic bullshit all from personal experience with the brand and firsthand witnessing others having the same issues over and over again. The only decent thing they make is the TRX-4 for crawling. Everything else is overpriced trash, and I stick by that. Don't get me started because I will write a small novel on why you should never buy Traxxas if you have other options. :D

Regardless of my personal opinion, the fact stands, if he's just returning to the hobby and starting fresh, it's much better to go with another company than Traxxas, hands down. Associated, TLR (Losi), Arrma, Serpent, Kyosho, Xray, Tekno, Mugen, Redcat, even WLToys makes better products out of the box than they do and no proprietary BS on any of their vehicles or equipment that he'll be stuck with or have to rebuy for another vehicle down the road.
 
the batteries are a different ball game - clearly they are already pre built packs as it seems.

can you link me to the batteries you prefer to buy smc maybe 2 vendors that sell them online so i can compare the exact models to get.

i have never done 8th scale , i was thinking 10th. however it sounds like it might be more fun to do 8th scale with the "power " thats implied we have now.

I will call the track to find out but and report back. mean time do u need to solder those two lead connectors to the batter or do they plug in? seems the sport has gotten a lot "safer" where kids of younger ages could participate more should they be respectful and actually steer well. :D
 
traxxas was always someting i didnt like back in the day, losi was real flashy, i actually preferred team associated over all. never the less TL and AE are both about equal still and therefore have nice stuff. I think i want to invest in a radio/receiver first was looking at futaba as they did me well in the past or a spektrum is a new brand i see.

wasn't sure about this $100 more model for full telemetry was it ? no clue on this and not sure what transponder is either technically i know before i needed a few sets of crystals to avoid interference during races or with other radios etc.

I'm aware of the money pits sadly however it seems it might have been more expensive before.

can anyone chime in on power supplys chargers and or dc power devices and what they use to power them and or any creative affordable options not trying to cheap on anything but I like hearing what everyones input is as always! learning is great
 
Transmitter crystals are a thing of the past. No need to worry about that stuff with radios anymore. You just buy a radio and a matching receiver and you're good to go. You can also use the same radio with multiple receivers of the same kind in multiple vehicles as well if need be.

Futabas are still good. The 3Pv is a great starting point. Spektrums are decent if you don't get anything under the DX4 series. Anything less will be kind of crappy. Airtronics/Sanwa is also a decent company to look at for radios.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/futaba...dio-system-w-r203gf-receiver-futk3201/p506146



A transponder is what's used at tracks to keep track of your laps and times. Most tracks rent them for about $5 a day or so but it all adds up if you go frequently. They can be easily swapped between cars though if you have more than one in the future.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mylaps-rc4-3wire-direct-powered-personal-transponder-ait10r120/p260528
I lucked out and grabbed two on Ebay when they had the 15% off the entire site code a while back.



Only SMC sells SMC. But you can get any type of connector you want when you buy them which is nice and their warranty and support is top notch. For racing specifically, you will most likely need to solder on the 4mm or 5mm banana plugs depending on the battery itself.

https://www.smc-racing.net/


This is the charger I personally use but it might be a lil' much for starting out and it's an AC charger (does have DC for a car battery hookup if you're out and about though). But Ultrapower is a good brand and they do have cheaper models available.

https://dirtcheaprc.com/shop/ultra-...-nimh-pb-acdc-balancing-battery-multicharger/

The most popular track charger seems to be the icharger series.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/junsi-...dc-battery-charger-6s-30a-800w-jun-x6/p773438

You will however also need to get a brick power supply (which is another $60-80 or so) but you have the convenience of not needing an outlet or external power source, specially at outdoor tracks where this could be an issue.


If you're going to be racing I would highly recommend sticking with AE or TLR just as afore-mentioned, they are the most common vehicles, and in the case of AE, has the highest worldwide aftermarket support of any brand pretty much as well as online resources such as setup sheets for example.
I personally have a TLR 4.0 22 2wd buggy (the white/green car in my avatar) I race with and love it. Bought it as a roller and threw in a nice tekin Gen3 esc and a reedy S+ 17.5 spec motor. Also have an Arrma Talion (The big guy in the back of my avatar)I race at an outdoor 1/8 track. They are super fun but if you're just getting started, you'll have way more opportunities to race with a 1/10 scale if you ever travel to more tracks in the future.
 
the reason i mentioned the battery and charger situation was back in the day DC chargers were all there was for anything decent - there were no real AC power options to be honest it was all ac power supply somehow to power the dc charger.

can you link me to the brick type thing you are describing?

UP120AC Duo Dual Port (2x 12Amps, 2x 120Watts): LiPo, LiHv, LiIon, LiFe, NiCd, NiMh, Pb AC/DC Balancing Battery Multicharger

do i need to get a iCHARGER in addition to this? or does one do what the other does? also the dual port is for 2 batteries? is there a 4 battery model? I'm thinking about long term and buying toys that are going to last and also keep me busy :) :) possibly room for my son to have fun as well when he takes a liking.

regarding teh futaba and no crystals NICE - was thiking of the 7px and just holding on to that for a while unless you think its wiser to get a 3pv until something more functional comes along for the price of the more expensive one, i say that as I have idea what the cost/feature diff of the 7px is even necessary for so its sort of a waste without. maybe you know what it can do and how beneficial it is or isnt?

thanks again for your input I'm soaking everything up quickly and pretty much trying to determine in what order to buy the stuff so i dont get one thing and then get stuck i honestly think tools first kit second
then the rest of the stuff next so i can start building and get used to stuff meanwhile saving/purchasing other components.

a long time ago i had a 100+ dollar airtronics servo which was high speed to help turn left and right up front is that still a comon thing to purchase , when i raced i did stock and these 35-45 year old men were stomphing the crap out of me with modified motors putting bearings instead of stock i was told i think
 
I've owned Traxxas vehicles and luckily just sold my last one. Never again, Nothing but money pits designed to break easily. Not a 'rival fanboy" at all and have way more reasons to dislike them than just their strongarm lawyer tactic bullshit all from personal experience with the brand and firsthand witnessing others having the same issues over and over again. The only decent thing they make is the TRX-4 for crawling. Everything else is overpriced trash, and I stick by that. Don't get me started because I will write a small novel on why you should never buy Traxxas if you have other options. :D

Regardless of my personal opinion, the fact stands, if he's just returning to the hobby and starting fresh, it's much better to go with another company than Traxxas, hands down. Associated, TLR (Losi), Arrma, Serpent, Kyosho, Xray, Tekno, Mugen, Redcat, even WLToys makes better products out of the box than they do and no proprietary BS on any of their vehicles or equipment that he'll be stuck with or have to rebuy for another vehicle down the road.
Nah man it’s totally fine. Most of the people here are from arrma forum so it’s totally reasonable. Everyone’s different and in my experience I didn’t have any issues with their trucks that other brands didn’t have. I enjoyed the aftermarket support and had a good time, which is all that matters. Also imo there’s a lot of reasons why to buy Traxxas for your first car. The same reason I did still holds up today. They have the best brushed fleet on the market, aftermarket support is amazing, the trucks are durable, and you can really spend some quality time with the truck on a stand modifying it. Bias people don’t mention these things. Remember, being bias is never a problem, and even if you don’t admit it, it’s never a problem. But if you say you’re not bias and you really are, that’s a problem (there’s such thing as being bias against something btw, I’m bias against integy). I’m not attacking you because from your other posts I’ve seen that you aren’t bias and provide good information.
 
Have a look at the Proline MT 4x4. It comes in either as a roller or a kit. If you want a brasher buggy then the Arrma Typhon 3s is a fun cost effective option. I like the look of the Proline personally but it isn’t the biggie you are looking for
 
There's also the Proline Fusion which can be built as a basher type or SCT vehicle which you can race with.
 
There's also the Proline Fusion which can be built as a basher type or SCT vehicle which you can race with.
I'm good on proline or anything but 1/10th trucks for now. I think it would be beneficial to buy the kit and put it together .

That was part of what made Everything so special the idea of these rollers or RTR is cool. I'm concerned buying used at this point unless it's for electronics of some sort. Obviously if it's a stupid cheap deal it would be worth considering.
I dont want a SC or a basher or a buggy.

Looking for good recommendation on speed control anything I need to buy for the inside under the hood etc

Right now I need a list
Radio
ESC
charger and power supply
Batteries
Tools
Etc
 
seems like theres a
24V MaxAmps Power Supply 62.5A 1500W


for 179 or so, is this a good thing to buy, seems like it would be a good powersupply for chargers and anything else needing plugged in dc
 
Radio - I still run the radios that came with my RTR's but if I was to buy one it would probably be the Futaba 4PV I think it is
ESC - Hobbywing Max8 probably for me depending on what you're buying
charger and power supply - I run the SkyRC D400. A 400W dual channel charger where you can configure how many amps per channel. 200w each is the default and what I run. Super easy to configure and reliable.
Batteries - I buy the cheapest batteries that meet or exceed min spec for my cars. I have no brand loyalty but I am thinking about buying some Ovonic batteries
Tools - I only have MIPs and they are awesome. I have the hand wrenches and the power drivers and they are awesome

I know you are looking at buying the Weller iron. I have the Hakko 888D I think the model is, more expensive but a super good iron
 
Thanks for feedback I'm going to make a list soon just comparing items and choosing what for each
 
Just be sure if you go with hobbywing to buy from an authorized online dealer and NOT ebay. They will not honor their warranty if your proof of purchase is through ebay.
 
**NO 1/8th scale, monster trucks, or nitro/gas powered vehicles allowed**

so no 8ths scale fun at this track. doesn't supriseme they tear things up more etc.

10th scale electric it is..
 
http://702rcraceway.com/race-results/ herse a link to recent race results.

i guess Stadium Truck is where the 6.1t would come into play. I can get into 2wd buggy after that. Eventually id like to have a 2wd buggy/truck and 4wd the same. I was never big on the 4wd as it was more expensive and things broke more often etc. It seems that the 4wd buggy I had for a short period of time was a LOt of fun tho as it picked up speed and launched well. I'm excited to see any power difference in these new batteries etc and also what kind of motors are being run now?
i think the midnight motors were pretty popular when i was into this if that rings any bells
 
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