racing another class... Hmm, What could this possibly mean?

[CertifiedMike]

it’s def the car never the operator (always the operator)

also nemo racing has a discord but the link in the email is dead lol

We prob both have the same brand of "faulty" radio too then???
"STUPID RADIO!!!"

 

[paytonimusrex]

oh for sure forgot about the radio

 

[CertifiedMike]

I have a whole collection of them!
I have a collectors "early",
"I HATE YOU STUPID RADIO!!!"
with custom cracks from throwing it at the trophy table after "my stupid radio" caused me to DNF, AGAIN!!!
I think I actually got a trophy for knocking all of them down on the week prior!

 

[DavidB1126]

Getting back to this. Black Friday is rolling around in a couple weeks.

One of my buddies has a b6.3d slider for 160 bucks. Seems pretty nice deal. Well he said b6.3 while the box said b6.3d so not sure if it has a gear or ball diff in it. Pretty sure I would want a gear diff for carpet right?

Another buddy also texted me saying he can give his rb10 rear motor to me if I wanted too. Will see when the time comes

 

[BarnFabRC]

Getting back to this. Black Friday is rolling around in a couple weeks.

One of my buddies has a b6.3d slider for 160 bucks. Seems pretty nice deal. Well he said b6.3 while the box said b6.3d so not sure if it has a gear or ball diff in it. Pretty sure I would want a gear diff for carpet right?

Another buddy also texted me saying he can give his rb10 rear motor to me if I wanted too. Will see when the time comes

You would definitely want a gear diff for carpet. Not saying you couldn’t get around the track with a ball diff but the gear diff is much better suited for it.

Take that RB10 if you get the opportunity! It can be anything with a few minor changes. Buggy, SCT, dirt oval car, stadium truck etc. The RTR motor they come with is pretty strong too.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I'm happy to see your good R/C karma coming around to say hi for you!
Are you going to build carpet or dirt racers if you end up with both?

Your carpet car... new guys will tell you that you want the gear diff for carpet. A gear diff will take the shock loads from a brushless on carpet "better" than a ball diff.
The balls can and do wear your diff parts as they operate but on high traction, if the slipper isn't set pretty much perfectly, the extra toque load is transferred through the ball diff and it also acts as a slipper.
You'll fry the diff if you let the ball diff slip too much.
The nice thing about a ball diff is that when its set correctly, it behaves as a "posi", meaning both left and right wheels have "locked" together in forward motion. This is extra benneficial on loose surfaces.
Plan on stocking exta parts for inspection and rebuilding often.
No oils in ball diffs. Ball diffs are usually very easy to adjust by removing a dogbone to access an adjustment screw.
Your gear diff either takes the load and the car goes forward or you strip gears out. There's no "give" or slip with gears.
A gear diff, by design, can't "lock up" like a ball diff "posi".
In a perfectly straight line, the gears are seeing a perfectly even load (in a perfect world). Any turn means one side and the other side of that diff IS seeing more+less power with gears.
If you over power one side or the other, your car will loose traction on one side or "diff out". Oil in the diff case will help slow the rotation of the gears and help prevent "diff out".
Super heavy oils can get you "posi" effects also.
Plan on stocking different weight oils to "tune" your cars diff to different track conditions or possibly having a couple built gear diffs in your toolbox on race day
If your slipper is set correctly, your diff won't ever see the "breaking" shock load on throttle. Your diffs should be fine, ball or gear, IN THEORY.
Again, my car is very different than your BUT I ran carpet ONLY with my ball diff Mid for years.
I am old and have hearing problems sooooo...
Actually, I'm going to try a gear diff with a one-way diff up front and an actual slipper.
I think I'm going to hate it and I'll have a ball diff in it asap... we'll see.
My car is 4x4 and a belt anyways so its different.
I don't know if the Associated parts are availible and how expensive it would be to change over.
My personal experience with OTHER CARS is that I would grab up both those Associated (if they are in good shape, sounds like a good deal) and I would put one together and run it!
Unless the parts supply dries up, those cars should do fine for you!

 

[RustyUs]

You would definitely want a gear diff for carpet. Not saying you couldn’t get around the track with a ball diff but the gear diff is much better suited for it.

Take that RB10 if you get the opportunity! It can be anything with a few minor changes. Buggy, SCT, dirt oval car, stadium truck etc. The RTR motor they come with is pretty strong too.

I thought for sure Team Associated would have put out a RT10 (fictitious stadium truck) after seeing them release the RB10. I guess they don't see stadium trucks being popular as they once were . I don't remember seeing a stadium truck built from any of the "5 series" RTRs. I thought there were only the short course, and buggy length chassis.

 

[DavidB1126]

I'm happy to see your good R/C karma coming around to say hi for you!
Are you going to build carpet or dirt racers if you end up with both?

Your carpet car... new guys will tell you that you want the gear diff for carpet. A gear diff will take the shock loads from a brushless on carpet "better" than a ball diff.
The balls can and do wear your diff parts as they operate but on high traction, if the slipper isn't set pretty much perfectly, the extra toque load is transferred through the ball diff and it also acts as a slipper.
You'll fry the diff if you let the ball diff slip too much.
The nice thing about a ball diff is that when its set correctly, it behaves as a "posi", meaning both left and right wheels have "locked" together in forward motion. This is extra benneficial on loose surfaces.
Plan on stocking exta parts for inspection and rebuilding often.
No oils in ball diffs. Ball diffs are usually very easy to adjust by removing a dogbone to access an adjustment screw.
Your gear diff either takes the load and the car goes forward or you strip gears out. There's no "give" or slip with gears.
A gear diff, by design, can't "lock up" like a ball diff "posi".
In a perfectly straight line, the gears are seeing a perfectly even load (in a perfect world). Any turn means one side and the other side of that diff IS seeing more+less power with gears.
If you over power one side or the other, your car will loose traction on one side or "diff out". Oil in the diff case will help slow the rotation of the gears and help prevent "diff out".
Super heavy oils can get you "posi" effects also.
Plan on stocking different weight oils to "tune" your cars diff to different track conditions or possibly having a couple built gear diffs in your toolbox on race day
If your slipper is set correctly, your diff won't ever see the "breaking" shock load on throttle. Your diffs should be fine, ball or gear, IN THEORY.
Again, my car is very different than your BUT I ran carpet ONLY with my ball diff Mid for years.
I am old and have hearing problems sooooo...
Actually, I'm going to try a gear diff with a one-way diff up front and an actual slipper.
I think I'm going to hate it and I'll have a ball diff in it asap... we'll see.
My car is 4x4 and a belt anyways so its different.
I don't know if the Associated parts are availible and how expensive it would be to change over.
My personal experience with OTHER CARS is that I would grab up both those Associated (if they are in good shape, sounds like a good deal) and I would put one together and run it!
Unless the parts supply dries up, those cars should do fine for you!

My plan is to mostly have it set up for carpet for this winter season but during the summer it will be mostly set up for indoor glued dirt.

So would you prefer a ball diff or gear diff? Or does it not really matter? Most likely going to be running in a 17.5 stock class. Unless I switch to mod in my 4 wheel, then this 2wd if I get it will receive my 13.5 setup out of the 4 wheel.

With the oils, yea last year when I was running carpet with my B74.1, I was mainly running stick setup which was 10k/200k/10k. F/c/r. The local guys were running setups like 20k/1m/30k and that is super thick lol. I tried 15k front and rear and 500k in the center and it did pretty good for me. I run the same setup right now for indoor dirt (glued) and does pretty well. Actually I might have swapped to 200k in the center. I can't remember I haven't wrenched in my 4 wheeler in a long time.

Edit: I do see some posts about people converting their B6.x buggies into stadium trucks and short course trucks with the SC/T6.x parts. Might be doable too if I get a B6.x car and wanting to spend some money that I don't have lol.

 

[DavidB1126]

Here is that B6.3 slider for 160 bucks. New chassis, shock towers, other parts and he can include a used set of rubbers with it.

And here is that RB10 that needs a bit of cleaning up. Needs new shocks (or maybe just new springs and thicker oil). Rebuild, buggy body and wing, and tires. I'll probably put in my own Rx, and servo. Later down the road if I do (and if I don't get the B6.3) I'll throw in a 17.5 in.

 

[CertifiedMike]

If you're running a center diff and no slipper, it might change things.
My thought on the set up in mine...
Front diff is one way.
Under braking, no flipping over, car behaves like 2wd, rear brakes.
Under acceleration, in turns, the ball diff will be slipping slightly, front one way acts as fwd and "pulls" car thru turn.
Under acceleration, straight, will hammer with "posi" , good traction.
Ball diff allows for the slip in my driveline in order for the one way to "pull".
I expect that the rear gear set up will allow for too much "diff" under acceleration and the car will try to "push" more into the turns.
I need to get the car finished and get it on the track to see if I'm right though.
I always ran 1 way/ball set up in the Optima mid.
Regular Optima was gear diff front and rear.
Years ago, I ran Checkpoint motors with Novak and Tekin escs.
I know they aren't brushless but they had SNOT!!!
I don't expect 2s brushless to play a large part in set up changes.
The new slipper design is going to be a big change I think, hope!!!

 

[CertifiedMike]

The rear motor does put the weight on and even behind your rear axle. That DOES effect handling but it doesn't mean you CAN'T run it on carpet.
Both of those cars look nice. As long as the dirty car is just dirty, not all bashed and needing new EVERYTHING, I like what you've found!
I feel like rebuilding shocks is just regular maintenance so no "shocker" there either.

 

[DavidB1126]

I feel like rebuilding shocks is just regular maintenance so no "shocker" there either.

Yea. You reminded me I should rebuild the rustler and slash shocks lol.

 

[Tunedfrog]

Dad said, if I come across a good Black Friday deal on a 2wd Buggy kit, I could possibly get one, or a good deal on a used roller or almost RTR buggy. Or either a 2wd SCT or 2wd stadium kit to run on carpet. If I get a good deal on a truck, it will be a budget build using a 13.5, same if I go the 2wd buggy route but just with a 17.5. Most likely a justock 17.5 combo, amazon or savox or low end protek servo, flysky receiver, cnhl batteries which are going to be shared with my current 4wd, ect. Anyone know of any usual black friday deals when they do come around on kits? Was planning to stick with associated, but since the new B7 is the latest in the lineup, would it be on sale? Was hoping to get the previous version to save some money, but do they have any stock left of any B6.3 or .4s? Highly doubt so since 2wd Bug is so popular. When I got my B74.1 2 years ago, I got it for 300 bucks for Black Friday, as the .2 was released 2 months prior. Should I look into any other brands? @luke66 said that the PR racing is just 200 bucks and I think thats a good deal, is it a good car? (My only issue with going with PR is going to be parts support) Open to all suggestions! And as usual Ill always be searching eBay and marketplace if any good comes around

Your dad said you should invest in TunedFrog's birthday fund.
Come on, take one for the team.

 

[DavidB1126]

You can have my tt02. It's a very interesting and fun car

 

[CertifiedMike]

You can have my tt02. It's a very interesting and fun car

The gift that keeps on giving!!!

 

[Tunedfrog]

You can have my tt02. It's a very interesting and fun car

My daddy always said don't play in the street.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I have a question for you David.
When you run carpet, do you have a favorite tire design and compound?
I'm looking at some "very soft" right now. AKA in different patterns. I used to run foam tires. So I'm not really sure where to start.
I'm pretty sure the track fav is a low pin spike, maybe JConcepts. Not sure on compound tho.
I'm thinking that JConcepts is better quality and might be why they are more expensive than AKA.
What's your pick for tires this year???

 

[DavidB1126]

Well I haven't even been to a carpet track and racing on carpet yet this year. Past 2 times I ran carpet I was running fuzz bites front and rear on my B74 4 wheel and they are super traction on the grey eos carpet, but perfect on black crc carpet.

I seen a few run fuzz bite rear and pin swag front for less grip out front since the fuzz bites are super grippy.

At the local track, the locals there had been liking promotion vipers in the green compound.

The Jconcepts tires like the fuzz bites and pin swags, I think most if not all of their carpet tires are in their pink compound.

On my rustler (2wd) I run fuzz bite rear and swagger fronts. Only ran it once and it did pretty good. I did have a few traction rolling incidents but I think it was due to too thick of shock oil out front.

On my slash (2wd) I run Schumacher mini pins in the blue compound. If too much traction I just chop some pins off. Mostly in the front. On grey eos since traction is super high I cut 2 rows of pins on the front tires. Both outer and inner sidewalls to numb the steering a bit.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Well I haven't even been to a carpet track and racing on carpet yet this year. Past 2 times I ran carpet I was running fuzz bites front and rear on my B74 4 wheel and they are super traction on the grey eos carpet, but perfect on black crc carpet.

I seen a few run fuzz bite rear and pin swag front for less grip out front since the fuzz bites are super grippy.

At the local track, the locals there had been liking promotion vipers in the green compound.

The Jconcepts tires like the fuzz bites and pin swags, I think most if not all of their carpet tires are in their pink compound.

On my rustler (2wd) I run fuzz bite rear and swagger fronts. Only ran it once and it did pretty good. I did have a few traction rolling incidents but I think it was due to too thick of shock oil out front.

On my slash (2wd) I run Schumacher mini pins in the blue compound. If too much traction I just chop some pins off. Mostly in the front. On grey eos since traction is super high I cut 2 rows of pins on the front tires. Both outer and inner sidewalls to numb the steering a bit.

Cool! I think the treads I'm looking at are reasonable. The compound is prob too soft but I might try them just so I know.
I'm not sure what to expect from this car in corners. Its SWB and alum chassis right now.
My last car Mid was about 1" longer and graphite.
SWB mids are supposed to push in corners. Maybe more bite? Maybe the one way diff will work as planned with the slipper etc too!
I am getting excited to run this car!
The Schumacher tires were a go to for us Kyosho guys way back because we shared the 2" wheel diameter.

 

[BarnFabRC]

I thought for sure Team Associated would have put out a RT10 (fictitious stadium truck) after seeing them release the RB10. I guess they don't see stadium trucks being popular as they once were . I don't remember seeing a stadium truck built from any of the "5 series" RTRs. I thought there were only the short course, and buggy length chassis.

I’m building an “RB10T” right now. Buggy chassis with SCT arms, dog bones shocks and towers. I’m actually using shocks from my old 4x4 slash, they fit perfectly with a slight mod to the upper stand-offs. I need to update my build thread for it. It’s coming together nicely. Just working out some details for body mounts. I’m trying to run the original RC10T replica body from JConcepts.