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question on car audio

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nitro13

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I've been looking to getting a sub for my car i have a cousin that has a memphis mclass 10" sub he says he will sell me.he said he will sell me it for $75 said it cost $200-220 he has never used it so its brand new.now i dont know much about memphis subs so do any of yall know if that is a good sub or not.

heres a link to pic and info : http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/details.asp?id=49


nitro13,
 
i have never heard of that brand before. I googled it and itws only 200 watts. my dam stereo has more than that.its 4 ohm whihc is good. he says he paid $200 or whatever but it sells for $135 now. this is someting you are buying from your cousin. go down to best buy pc richard or hatever and buy a good sub. sony makes some nice ones. what do you drive? you can buy in a store go under warranty, you can get warranty service no questions asked get a new sub. my bro has 2 10' Rockford fosgate's in his little hoop'd nissan sentra that thing would bang. he to abuse them and pc richard would always replace them.
 
Memphis car audio are badass. If you do a search on competitions that will come up. They are very well made speakers and amps!!!
 
If you put a stereo that size in the car, I would recommend steppin up to a .26 engine, or maybe the 3.5. You might also want to use 30% nitro.
 
You can get 12" sonys for 75 bux from best buy. i got a pair of them and they kick ass.

Is it 600 peak or rms. If its rms, its a kickass speaker but if thats peak, go buy a 12. mine say they are 1200 peak but are 350 rms. The rms is what you need to look at.
 
Memphis are alright. I wont own any of there subs, I have seen to many with melted voicecoils. But Memphis does produce some good digital amps.
 
When it comes to car audio you have to look at the whole picture. Peak wattage doesn't' mean poop! If you can put 1000peak watts but only 100 rms then of course they are going to advertise the 1000 watt point. So this is what I do, I go with the better quality audio equipment, which sometimes will be rated at a lower rms rating but I match it up with an amp that will put out the same rms rating as the sub.

In my car right now I have Rockford fosgate fanatic X component system with an older Punch 100 which will put out 100 watts rms at 4 ohms for 2 channels. For my sub I have a Blaupunkt Overdrive DVC 12". I'm running that with a punch 60, this will put out 60 watts rms @ 4ohms for 2 channels. I'm running it bridged at 2 ohms, which means about double for bridging it 120rms x1channel, then double it again for 2 ohms which is about 220watts rms, and this is plenty of power. I have this setup in a 97 civic 4 door and it is almost too loud. I had it in a 94 civic hatchback and I could flip a quarter on the roof.

So take this stuff into consideration when you start to decide on your system, and the bottom line is "Spend a little more and be a hell of alot more satisfied with your investment"
 
vbgagnon said:
So take this stuff into consideration when you start to decide on your system, and the bottom line is "Spend a little more and be a hell of alot more satisfied with your investment"

Just like rc :)

I went ahead and spend 460 on my system. a pair of sony 12" rated at 350 rms each, sony amp with 200 rms on each channel(2 channels 4 ohm) rockford fosgate wiring and a box.
I am very happy with it, the only problem now is that my car shakes like crazy. its an old car so everything rattles. :shrug:
 
Now if you want competiton grade equipment I would go with what hb1111 is selling! extremely good equipment!
 
( I COULD FLIP A QUATER OFF THE ROOF)
vbgagnon said:
When it comes to car audio you have to look at the whole picture. Peak wattage doesn't' mean poop! If you can put 1000peak watts but only 100 rms then of course they are going to advertise the 1000 watt point. So this is what I do, I go with the better quality audio equipment, which sometimes will be rated at a lower rms rating but I match it up with an amp that will put out the same rms rating as the sub.

In my car right now I have Rockford fosgate fanatic X component system with an older Punch 100 which will put out 100 watts rms at 4 ohms for 2 channels. For my sub I have a Blaupunkt Overdrive DVC 12". I'm running that with a punch 60, this will put out 60 watts rms @ 4ohms for 2 channels. I'm running it bridged at 2 ohms, which means about double for bridging it 120rms x1channel, then double it again for 2 ohms which is about 220watts rms, and this is plenty of power. I have this setup in a 97 civic 4 door and it is almost too loud. I had it in a 94 civic hatchback and I could flip a quarter on the roof.

So take this stuff into consideration when you start to decide on your system, and the bottom line is "Spend a little more and be a hell of alot more satisfied with your investment"
ALL THAT IS U NEED SOME DYNAMAT. I COULD SHAKE 24 CASE POP OFF MY ROOF B4 I DYNAMATED THE WHOLE THING. UR LOSING LOTS OF POWER, BUT IF UR NOT INTO COMPETITION THEN NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT. GET RID OF ROCKFORD GO WITH THE JL'S W7'S IN THAT CAR U WOULD IT SO MUCH LOUDER.

Yeah I Would Go With That If U Want It But There Are Better Products Out There. Me I'm Into Competition, I've Won Mulitple Trophies. Here Is What I Got :
2 Kicker Solo Baric L7 12"
1 Kicker Kx 1200.1 Amp
Diamond Audio Component Set (4 Speakers 2 Tweeters)
1 Diamond Audio 600 4- Channell Amp
2 Optimo Deep Cycle Yellow Top Batteries( 1 Under The Hood 1 In Back To Act As A Cap)

Now For The Show Part:
1 Modified Xbox
1 Playstation 2
2 Power Convertez
2 Rear Head Rest 7.5" Monitors
1 Passenger Visor 10" Monitor
1 4.5" Rear View Mirror Monitor
1 Rear Colored Camera
2 Wireless Headsets For The Back Monitors To Hear Ur Games
24" RIMS
PULSING UNDER GLOWS WHITE( GOT THEM POINTED TOWARDS THE RIM SO WHEN I PULSE THEM AS FAST AS THEY GO IT LOOKS LIKE A STROBE LIGHT IN WHEEL, LOOKS AWSOME LIKE SLOW MOTION!)
 
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I agree 100% on the dynamat deal. I never got a chance to do it with my older civic. By the time that I finished installing it, I wrecked it (snow storm). So I bought a 97 eclipse, and I dynamatted the whole thing firewall to hatch, floor, roof, doors, and the hood. With the windows up you could barely hear a little bump when the bass would hit. They have come a long way with deading materials. When I first started they were hard to work with and heavy, and now its thin, light, and easy to install.

As for the equipment, I like to stay with what I know, and I know rockford, I'm not saying JL isn't any good or anything like that.
 
i aint gana buy that sub from him decided not to.the sub iv been looking at for a while is the kicker 15L7,run a 1200.1 with it,and a 1.5 capasitor.



nitro13,
 
yeah the l7s require some serious power. I run the old school Kicker Solo Baric 15s and eat crappy amps for lunch. I have gone through about 4 sets of amps trying to find something to keep the subs happy. The subs only seem to be happy with Rockford Fosgate 1000a2 (bridged mono) (2 amps) and needless to say I have more than enough power (400 rms for each) and 1200 watts peak. I ran 3 1 farad caps to keep everything in line. Dynamated the whole car. I stepped it down to using 1 cap as I did not feel the need to have 3 caps...I think it was for the oohh ahhh factor.
 
all i gotta say is dynomatXtreme, it makes a world of difference in any car with any size system
 
Thats what i like to hear kicker thats the way it should b.the 15's r good for deep bass only the songs u normally listen to most likely will not hit that good with the 15's i would go with a 12. and forget the cap spend the money on the extra battery. if some 1 could help me out i could post a pic of my ride, but i dont know how.
 
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