Portals vs straight axles.

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Iowa crawler

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I spent the weekend in the shop working on suspension stuff. As I build and modified different rigs I have two rigs that are my best. One has Capra axles and one has AR44 straight axles. The Capra based rig is superior in most cases. But it is really close. Both have servo on axle.
My other rig is just kinda average. I built it with AR45 axles and a 3 gear. It climbs OK and definitely has good ground clearance but it’s top heavy.

So I decided to give it some love. This whole process took about twenty hours. I have to balance the servo, ESC and battery location along with the suspension geometry and drive line. Every change messes up two of the other things.
I removed the shocks and got the suspension sorted. First I got the wheel base is the same on both sides. Next the pan hard rod was binding. And the steering links was at a bad angle.
I tried three different pan had link mounts but the pumpkin on the left was totally in the way and the servo on the left was a total mess. I finally, after testing each change one thing at a time mounted the panhard rod forward of the differential. That allowed the frame to drop all the way down to the axle. I then mounted a lay down servo mount to get the linkage up away from the panhard. This also keeps everything parallel. Next I mounted a set of 90mm desert lizards. The first tests were great in some areas but it just kept falling over. The weight balance is 57/43 and no body yet.
So I switched to 80mm shocks and now it has no articulation.
It is 10mm lower and does much better at side hilling but struggles with the center skid dragging on break overs.

So now I’m thinking about going back to a set of AR44s. I want to like the AR45. I got them moving properly but performance is not even close to the others.

Pictures tonight.
 
I spent the weekend in the shop working on suspension stuff. As I build and modified different rigs I have two rigs that are my best. One has Capra axles and one has AR44 straight axles. The Capra based rig is superior in most cases. But it is really close. Both have servo on axle.
My other rig is just kinda average. I built it with AR45 axles and a 3 gear. It climbs OK and definitely has good ground clearance but it’s top heavy.

So I decided to give it some love. This whole process took about twenty hours. I have to balance the servo, ESC and battery location along with the suspension geometry and drive line. Every change messes up two of the other things.
I removed the shocks and got the suspension sorted. First I got the wheel base is the same on both sides. Next the pan hard rod was binding. And the steering links was at a bad angle.
I tried three different pan had link mounts but the pumpkin on the left was totally in the way and the servo on the left was a total mess. I finally, after testing each change one thing at a time mounted the panhard rod forward of the differential. That allowed the frame to drop all the way down to the axle. I then mounted a lay down servo mount to get the linkage up away from the panhard. This also keeps everything parallel. Next I mounted a set of 90mm desert lizards. The first tests were great in some areas but it just kept falling over. The weight balance is 57/43 and no body yet.
So I switched to 80mm shocks and now it has no articulation.
It is 10mm lower and does much better at side hilling but struggles with the center skid dragging on break overs.

So now I’m thinking about going back to a set of AR44s. I want to like the AR45. I got them moving properly but performance is not even close to the others.

Pictures tonight.
After 20+ years of doing this RC thing, I still get tripped up. Good reading I'm not the only one. Anymore, before even starting a mod, I have to ask myself, "Now, what all is this going to change and do I really want to do it?" Still, surprises happen. Part of the fun. Good luck. Cheers. 'AC'
 
I over powered an SCX10ii once. It would pull the front wheels off the ground halfway across the yard. I was having a blast till I bent a titanium link. Lesson learned bash with a basher, crawl with a crawler. I am tempted to get a basher. Techno makes a 4wD buggy I like the EB410.2.
 
This is some photos of the suspension. I’m using this thread as a reference also.

This is AR45 axles with 80 mm dvtec shocks green springs. After hours of trial and error mostly error I got the suspension to move down and Up without to much side to side and no bump steer.
3 inch of articulation the left rear tire is not touching the ground.

Next I’ll put it on the scale and after that change the shocks.
 

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This is some photos of the suspension. I’m using this thread as a reference also.

This is AR45 axles with 80 mm dvtec shocks green springs. After hours of trial and error mostly error I got the suspension to move down and Up without to much side to side and no bump steer.
3 inch of articulation the left rear tire is not touching the ground.

Next I’ll put it on the scale and after that change the shocks.
Hey now, wait a minute. That truck can only articulate over a 3" obstacle? Shouldn't that say 30"? 😉
 
Some vehicles will never be that great no matter how much time and effort goes into them. They all have flaws.

I know vanquish is the end links. I usually have to dremel those flat for belly sliding.

Cross has way to much play in the portal gearing. Gonna look for compatible gears or throw trx4 axles on it to fit it.
 
I swapped out the 80mm shocks for 90mm Desert Lizards.
Set up with medium length soft spring and 80w oil three hole piston. The performance is really really good. But no body. And at 5.75 pounds it’s no light weight either.

This is no over drive no brass and it did really well and has a decent balance without a body.. not sure what I’m going to do there. But now I want to look at the straight axles set up.
 

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I feel like this portal set up is pretty good compared to all the running and testing I did over the weekend. So I’m going to put the printed bed and power wagon cab back on this chassis.
For the straight axle build I ordered a new set of carbon V3 frame rails. I am basically going to build the same rig with different axles.

The portals have a 27 turn motor and a HW1080 esc with a Savox servo.
The straight axle will use a 35 turn motor with a HW1080 ESC and Savox servo.

Tires wheels will interchange and both have 90mm shocks.

So both rigs have similar electronics
Both will have the same tires and shocks

Neither vehicle will have front overdrive at this stage.

Portals will have a Lexan power wagon cab and printed bed
Straight axle will be Toyota hardbody cab and Lexan or no bed.
Should be interesting to see how they compare. Neither are light and no super wheel speed to mask weekness.
 
I ordered a bunch of little stuff for this build. And I got a new body cab from RC 4wD. When you purchase a full body it comes with two rear panels that allows you decide if you want a bed or not. I have a 2 left over full length panels and the cab is $16.00. All I had to get was a windshield for another 10.
I was also thinking about using screen mesh as a windshield. Not sure about that.
 

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When dirt clods hit screen mesh in 1/1 scale they explode in your face, have some pity on your driver. ;)
 
I like the no windshield look on crawlers, with the single bar going down the middle.
 
I ordered a bomber interior and I have a couple heads so it will have a 2D interior. I need that for the 3 gear.

I pinched the nose. I don’t have a grill so I’ll probably slam it all the way down
 

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I hate those little corners that come up short when the fenders angle in. So I use the pieces I removed as a filler. First I just cut a piece for underneath the hood and fender to support the seam. Then add in the little corner so it can sit on top of the reinforcement. I’ll sand it all to shape when it dries.
I’m only using Styrene glue at this point. Tonight I’ll use a Dremel tool and grind it all smooth inside. Then collect all the grinding dust and mix it with the glue. This produces a very nice slurry of filler I can use underneath to reinforce the fender to hood seem.
After it is all finished and the wheel well is cut or melted or whatever I’ll put in a thin piece of fiberglass cloth with Ca glue. That’s strong enough.
 
I filled the corners and later when it dries hard I’ll sand it to shape, fill it with plastic slurry and final shape it. This is headed toward rat rod look so it does not have to be perfect.

My goal is to keep the fenders from breaking at the cut seam.

This plastic weld cement seems pretty good but I will reinforce with fiberglass.
 

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I filled the corners and later when it dries hard I’ll sand it to shape, fill it with plastic slurry and final shape it. This is headed toward rat rod look so it does not have to be perfect.

My goal is to keep the fenders from breaking at the cut seam.

This plastic weld cement seems pretty good but I will reinforce with fiberglass.
Dude, you using those dykes to chop styrene? You need you some flush cut pliers.
51p-HQtPZGL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


Looking good man. I want to build one after watching all your builds. I love styrene modeling and really miss it.

Oh, and instead of buying that spendy Plastruct glue, try Acetone.
 
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