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Plastic Staple Welder

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Xraycer

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I recently came across this product and I think it may be very useful for our rc hobby. It's a $20 plastic welding kit that uses steel wires to reinforce damaged plastic. I figured it would be ideal for cracked chassis and housing, or anything that's plastic and large enough. It's made to get repairs to be functional, not clean and pretty.
I received mine yesterday, and have already made a couple of repairs. Works great! Super fast and easy to use. It becomes a little more time consuming, depending on how much of the staples you want to remove. I used a Dremel for the car trunk repair, and a cut off wheel power tool for the garbage can lid.

https://a.co/d/6dZ2vTy

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That last pic is of my +20 yo trash can lid.


Fixed it for ya!
Our cans are 8 years old or so. Maybe 10. The problem is the douche driving the truck uses the hydraulics to slam them around.
 
Our cans are 8 years old or so. Maybe 10. The problem is the douche driving the truck uses the hydraulics to slam them around.
I believe these are the guys that ultimately gets promoted to working the baggages at airport.
 
I recently came across this product and I think it may be very useful for our rc hobby. It's a $20 plastic welding kit that uses steel wires to reinforce damaged plastic. I figured it would be ideal for cracked chassis and housing, or anything that's plastic and large enough. It's made to get repairs to be functional, not clean and pretty.
I received mine yesterday, and have already made a couple of repairs. Works great! Super fast and easy to use. It becomes a little more time consuming, depending on how much of the staples you want to remove. I used a Dremel for the car trunk repair, and a cut off wheel power tool for the garbage can lid.

https://a.co/d/6dZ2vTy

View attachment 232645View attachment 232643View attachment 232644
Excellent. I just bought one. Thanks
 
Most excellent and interesting indeed. I've done many plastic "repairs" over the years with just what I had laying around with soldering iron and torch. Watching those plastic repair videos on YouTube... so satisfying seeing plastic melt.

But, I want to see the persons doing the dashboard and headlight repairs with the tool...
1745537948786.webp
 
Most excellent and interesting indeed. I've done many plastic "repairs" over the years with just what I had laying around with soldering iron and torch. Watching those plastic repair videos on YouTube... so satisfying seeing plastic melt.

But, I want to see the persons doing the dashboard and headlight repairs with the tool...
View attachment 232725
I was thinking headlight and kayak. 🤣
 
I received mine yesterday. I tried to use it on a 1 inch long crack on a small plastic cabinet 1/8 inch thick I selected the small zipper staple, inserted it into the iron, pulled the trigger to heat the iron for 5 seconds. Then I pressed it lightly on top of the crack and let it set cooling for 45 seconds. WOW!. It really sank quick into the cracked area and upon release the cracked pulled apart. My recommendation. Hold the staple up against the surface, pull the iron trigger for 2-3 seconds and release it. Hold all in place for 1 minute. I would no use this iron again on any surface less the 1/4 inch. I'm returning it for an Amazon refund.
 
I received mine yesterday. I tried to use it on a 1 inch long crack on a small plastic cabinet 1/8 inch thick I selected the small zipper staple, inserted it into the iron, pulled the trigger to heat the iron for 5 seconds. Then I pressed it lightly on top of the crack and let it set cooling for 45 seconds. WOW!. It really sank quick into the cracked area and upon release the cracked pulled apart. My recommendation. Hold the staple up against the surface, pull the iron trigger for 2-3 seconds and release it. Hold all in place for 1 minute. I would no use this iron again on any surface less the 1/4 inch. I'm returning it for an Amazon refund.
The pics I originally posted were repairs of plastic well under 1/4" thick. That plastic on the car trunk cover is 2mm thick, at best. The cooling was just about instantaneous because I pull the gun away from the staples as soon as I let off the trigger.
The 2nd pic is of my garbage can cover. That plastic has been outdoors for over 20 years. No cracks on during the repair, and I had actually pushed on the area a bit just to get an idea of how strong the bond is. It held up!
 
I believe the gun also runs on a timer from when you pull the trigger, for obvious safety reasons. On my initial use, I held the staples above where I planned to mend, then when the staples glows bright red, I press it onto the plastic. About a second after contact, the staple loses its bright red color, which is obviously the cool down, but I think it's the device automatically cutting off the electrical flow to the staples.
 
I've been using one almost exactly the same for almost 5 yrs. Fixed a dust mop just two days ago & saved $20. For those new to it, start light because if you go too heavy you can trash whatever you're trying to fix. You can always use the heavier approach if the light doesn't cut it.
 
I've been using one almost exactly the same for almost 5 yrs. Fixed a dust mop just two days ago & saved $20. For those new to it, start light because if you go too heavy you can trash whatever you're trying to fix. You can always use the heavier approach if the light doesn't cut it.
I had zero issues right from the first try. I can see the heat instantly melting the plastic on contact and easily going in, so didn't feel a need to press any harder. I guess my decades of experience with fixing plastic with a soldering iron, is paying off. 😃
 
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