Painting wheels chrome

[DudeAbides]

So I have some wheels that are black and I want to chrome them. I know that there are pens that can apply a chrome finish, but is it going to be a smooth finish or will it appear like "brush strokes"? I feel like aerosol paint (I don't airbrush) would provide a more consistent finish. But all the aerosol paints I see are for lexan (i.e. paint from the inside & back it).

Does anyone have experience with this or have any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[332_RC]

I have several types of paint pens. Oil & enamel. Sharpies, Testors, Elmer's, all kinds & colors. I usually get 'brush strokes' if I try to keep going over it. One slow swipe does best. I have done some bright silver, but not chrome. It turned out well. Keep the plunge end damp & use a plastic mix tray to keep a small pool by plunging the tip up & down, helps.

 

[WickedFog]

You could paint the wheels with any aerosol paint, just like you would anything else. It doesn't have to be RC paint.

My buddy is dabbling in actual chrome plating of 3d printed parts. It's a bit of a process, but looks like fun.

 

[jimdavis577]

I've actually thought about applying vinyl graphics to the wheels ..... i bet you could get some pretty wild looking ones......

 

[tudordewolf]

That "chrome" look is something of a holy grail for DIY efforts.

Here's a video where a youtuber does it with 2 chemicals you spray onto a surface at once, and if I had to guess, that's how this product, "Pchrome" works, the "hobbyist" level kit is only $500, as opposed to the "pro" one which is $4k+. It's also on eBay for less.

 

[WickedFog]

That "chrome" look is something of a holy grail for DIY efforts.

Here's a video where a youtuber does it with 2 chemicals you spray onto a surface at once, and if I had to guess, that's how this product, "Pchrome" works, the "hobbyist" level kit is only $500, as opposed to the "pro" one which is $4k+

So he just wasted about $50 in chemicals to chrome that

 

[tudordewolf]

So he just wasted about $50 in chemicals to chrome that

It does have me wondering if I could apply it over the film on an RC plane, and then maybe iron on a transparent layer instead of a heavy clearcoat, for that "polished aluminum" look, maybe on a warbird. It's not like the P-51 is going to be finished this year...

 

[WickedFog]

It does have me wondering if I could apply it over the film on an RC plane, and then maybe iron on a transparent layer instead of a heavy clearcoat, for that "polished aluminum" look, maybe on a warbird. It's not like the P-51 is going to be finished this year...

Well, you couldn't iron it on because isn't the film like heat shrink?

 

[tudordewolf]

Well, you couldn't iron it on because isn't the film like heat shrink?

I was reading up on ways to apply it and apparently it can be applied the same way you do window tint films, with soapy water or windex, and squeegee-ing it on, no heat at all except maybe to seal the edges at the end, if even that. That overcomes the issue of controlling bubbles/wrinkles as you try to iron layers of film together, when it's over bare wood, the wood is permeable enough that it doesn't hold air pockets.

Anyway, I'm thinking of using a super-light film like parklite, a fully-balsa-sheeted plane, chrome spray'd, and then a final layer of transparent parklite, all without making it too heavy.

 

[gragner66]

I would try Spazstix chrome paint It’s expense and time consuming but yields good results if done right

 

[thrak76]

I've got a few of the Molotow (sp?) chrome pens to try out on an upcoming project. They were the most cost-effective for my novice abilities. During my research I did notice that Testor's has a "new" chrome spray that was gaining some notice. Seems like the main gripe so far is durability. Scratches and dulls easily with handling is what I gathered.

 

[WickedFog]

The Molotow pens are great. But as mentioned, if you go over an area again, it does tend to streak a bit. But you can get it to smooth out. You just have to go in heavy with the paint flow. They are much better on small areas you can do with one pen width. These were done with Molotow pens.

 

[Greywolf74]

So I have some wheels that are black and I want to chrome them. I know that there are pens that can apply a chrome finish, but is it going to be a smooth finish or will it appear like "brush strokes"? I feel like aerosol paint (I don't airbrush) would provide a more consistent finish. But all the aerosol paints I see are for lexan (i.e. paint from the inside & back it).

Does anyone have experience with this or have any suggestions? Thanks.

If you paint it, its just gonna look like crap after a very short period of time when it starts getting all chipped off.

I guess it your asking about crawler wheels or maybe if you only ever run in grass then maybe thats not so much true but on a go fast type RC, I wouldnt do it.

 

[ahr43]

Years ago on a dragster project, I used Monokote thin vinyl as a beauty ring on a black wheel. At image is Monokote 'Aluminum' cut and fit to the rim. Monokote also makes a 'chrome' sheet. Not sure this is what you are looking for if you want to cover the entire rim.

Most hobby shops carry sheets in 5" x 36" lengths. At least they used to. Been years since buying any and still have some for use in my stash. Check out Monokote as a possible. -AC

 

[Mister 4x4]

I'm one of those old school guys that really isn't into the black wheels everybody seems to love these days. When I got my Kyosho SuperTen GP back in '97, I used some Duplicolor Chrome to paint the rims... and they looked awesome... for about 30 minutes after I started running the car. Apparently, none of the 'chrome' or chrome look paints hold up to nitromethanol exhaust (which has a healthy portion of caster oil). Once I got home and cleaned up the car (denatured alcohol), all indications of 'chrome' were now gone.

Here were are after an hour or two of racing with an equal number of electric and nitro cars. My 'chrome' paint is definitely going away (blue/black McLaren F1). The right/rear definitely took the brunt, but the exhaust on Johnny's NRS4 was straight out the back, so needless to say, I didn't spend too much time behind him!

I didn't have SpazStix products back in the day, but I would imagine that once it's laid down and cured (which can take weeks) a good 'compatible' clear coat can help with longevity. I say compatible, because you'll run into issues if you lacquer-based paint/clear over the top of enamel-based (and vice versa) - it's important to stick with paints and clear coats that work together.

My experience with Molotow Chrome Pens is that they are awesome for tiny details - but don't ever touch or clear coat over them (they dull right out). I have seen someone decant the Molotow pens, run it through an airbrush and come out with almost perfectly chromed rims (1/25 car). He let them dry for weeks before touching, but they still dulled out after the first touch.

Spray-on chrome is something of a fine art, and whomever can make it work are super-lucky, have mad skills, or sacrificed a small animal before beginning their work.

 

[Littlemotor]

Spaz Stix Ultimate over Spaz Stix Ultimate black, then either their High gloss clear, or another high gloss 2k clear. It’s a pretty straight forward process, and yields the most consistent results for your average, mechanically inclined hobbyist. Light, even coats, allow for MAXIMUM dry time, and have patience. It’ll turn out great.

Pretty daammiit durable, and crack/chip resistant, but it is STILL paint.. And on wheels… That being said-if BarbadosRex on YouTube can do it, then anyone can IMO..