Opinions on upgrades for the TRX-4 build kit.

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STONER RC

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So going to grab a trx-4 build kit and possibly a Deadbolt 24 army green. So any thing that should be added to the trx as I build it. So i don't have to tare it down just after I build it to upgrade something.That could have been prevented from the start. I'm sure there is it's a traxxas so all electronics for sure... Body probably the older clear step side. For now
Servos yes standard and micro
Axles yes
Gears?
The 24 just weight down low for the most part correct? ?
 

Kimmie28

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I used cheap aluminum driveshafts in my sport. But have had no issues overall with either the sport or defender. They are great trucks. I've changed to Amazon beadlocks and they help with tire options you could also consider different shocks. I used some el cheapos from Amazon on it and they work well. The trx is definitely one of my favorites and I best the snot out of it and it keeps coming back for more. I'm still running all stock electronics as well. Well except for the savox 1258tg servo I just put in as the stock one seized after a year of mud muck and mayhem
The silver are for the sport and the black go to the raptor
20211229_150333.jpg
 

Greywolf74

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I used cheap aluminum driveshafts in my sport. But have had no issues overall with either the sport or defender. They are great trucks. I've changed to Amazon beadlocks and they help with tire options you could also consider different shocks. I used some el cheapos from Amazon on it and they work well. The trx is definitely one of my favorites and I best the snot out of it and it keeps coming back for more. I'm still running all stock electronics as well. Well except for the savox 1258tg servo I just put in as the stock one seized after a year of mud muck and mayhem
The silver are for the sport and the black go to the raptor View attachment 139766
I really like the look of those grabbers!
 

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My electronics are all stock including the servo. No issues, and they all work well!
I'm going to recommend brass right out of the gate. You bring down that center of gravity and the performance results are instantaneous! Brass portal covers and metal wheels are I needed to balance out that tall, heavy Defender body.
Those stock Canyon Trail tires are excellent crawling tires! Unfortunately, they come pre-glued. I actually like these tires so much, that I used acetone to remove them from the plastic wheels, so I could mount them to much, much heavier aluminum wheels.
Keep in mind that a heavier rig becomes a disadvantage in certain terrains and conditions. It's about finding that balance based on your terrain and driving style.
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Xraycer

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@Xraycer I have the set of canyons that I dismounted off my defender if you want them let me know they just sit
Thanks for the offer, Bro, but I actually have 8 of them. So, I'm all set for now. Plus, I haven't touched my 1/10s for the past couple of months. Been way too preoccupied and having a blast with my SCX24s.
 

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Besides the steering servo, the other electronics are actually decent for trailing. For crawling, the Hobbywing 1080 ESC and a Holmes Hobbies 21T 550 Trailmaster Sport motor make a good combo (ESC has more configurability, stronger iBEC, stronger drag breaks; motor has stronger magnets, and has a bearing instead of a bushing).

As far as mechanical parts go, they are pretty much trouble-free (transmission, diff, and portal gears are near bulletproof), but I have seen some people break the portal input gear (brushless setups and jumping). The chromoly parts are a good upgrade if the stock portal input gears break.

Other performance upgrades are just brass parts to add weight down low as you said, but once you go over the sweet spot, putting a bunch might make the car heavier, and more ungainly.

And metal beadlock wheels are good for both adding weight and improving looks, and for tires, Proline makes a lot of good scale-looking tires (BFGs, etc; the Hyrax and Trenchers are good performance tires).

Also, I would leave the micro servos if they still work since they are kinda finicky with aftermarket micro servos if they aren't the exact same dimensions.

Good luck on your new project!
 

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Drive it and start considering upgrades once you get the feel for it. Don't go overboard on the brass. Front outer portal covers should do it. Rearranging the electrics will have a big impact on CoG (I run my ESC up front, battery on the side. Anyway, a lot of your choices will depend on whether you want performance or scale looks.

Stock tires are very good, even better when cut.
 

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Also, since you have a 3d printer now, check the 3d stl sites for mods, scale details, etc. I am sure there are tons of cool things to print for the TRX4 series.
 

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I have WP1080s in all of my crawlers and when I order them, I buy the ESC that comes with the program card. I lose stuff really easy so I have one in every room of the house.;)
 

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@Kimmie28: those are some sweet grabbers and wheels those beadlocks look so sweet but know they are a pain in the as* with the little screws rite ??🤔 @Xraycer: thats a sweet defender you must have some good weight under your shoes with that body?? Is that body heavy by its self?? @Tunedpipe I'm surprised you don't have one I thought you did. I know you got the 24's 😉👍😁 How's the "BULL FROG 🐸" doing?? @TurboChargedHonda: not trying to go crazy with the brass or weight. Just getting trying to think ahead. And do some upgrades as I build. Instead of haven to take it apart just after I build it.. I don't like traxxas electronics they suck for the most part I usually run them till they die which isn't very long anyway then go with SAVOX.also saw that about the portal gears. Might just upgrade them while building writing this all down to research the portal gears today..And was going to pick up the HW1080 or the castle mamba micro. @Pat_ranch i will go check out the update for sure bud.. thanks man. Thanks guys I appreciate the input and opinions
@nino sorry but you really need to change your avatar.. its totally inappropriate for the forum don't need some dude half naked on my screen ..You do realize there is under age kids on this forum correct. And see/ read everything we post. I'm not trying to go overboard. Been in the hobby for decades just asking the group of guys what's their opinions and getting ideas. Thanks for the input appreciated but change the avatar please.. THANKS GUYS APPRECIATE THE OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS 👍👍👍👍
 

Greywolf74

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@nino sorry but you really need to change your avatar.. its totally inappropriate for the forum don't need some dude half naked on my screen ..You do realize there is under age kids on this forum correct. And see/ read everything we post. I'm not trying to go overboard. Been in the hobby for decades just asking the group of guys what's their opinions and getting ideas. Thanks for the input appreciated but change the avatar please.. THANKS GUYS APPRECIATE THE OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS 👍👍👍👍
agreed
 

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.......a Deadbolt 24 army green......
The 24 just weight down low for the most part correct?
Brass wheel weights and/or brass steering knuckles, brass hex extensions, and removing all the shock springs will get you going nicely.

Next level would be metal wheels and good tires. I highly recommend RC4WD for both. The pressed steel wheels are excellent and only about $25. They can also be turned into deep dish, which is ideal for the Deadbolt. With the deep dish setup and the extensions, you'll be able to run the giant RC4WD Mud Slingers.
 

Kimmie28

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@STONER RC the screws take time to install but took about 20 minutes to do all 4. The back side is usually 4 to 6 screws is it to hold it all together. Just make sure to thread lock them as you go so you won't lose any. They were found on Amazon for about 39 bucks for all 4 and they are aluminum. Never had an issue with Amazon beadlocks. The grabbers are element pieces so they are easy to find. I've found that the wheels from Amazon fit great from the start and I was worried about the portal clearance but have none of that. Highly recommended them. I'm running savox servos in both trucks now. Stock traxxas stuff in the defender/raptor but rebuilding a custom sport now.
 

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@STONER RC Agree with @Kimmie28 The screws in the beadlocks can be intimidating, but arent really that bad to do, just take your time and line up the front and back holes of the rim as close as you can, and you shouldn't have any problems.

Injora makes some really nice rims at a decent price. I pick mine up on Amazon but they do have their own website but their service is slower.


EDIT**** I forgot to mention, pay attention to the wheel size, there are lots of options. 1/10 crawlers are typically 1.9 and SCX24 are typically 1.0. It's easy to forget to pay attention to that when browsing.
 
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STONER RC

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@Tunedpipe so basically just run it with the shock bodies? Is what your saying correct.. I was lookinhbatvthe RC4WD site the other day got lots of nice stuff. I believe they ship out of jersey as well.
@Kimmie28
Everyone says the same the screws are a pain in the as*Traxxas electronics are their one down fall IMHO. I've never like them at all. Even since 99 ,2000. When I got my first Tmaxx the electronics have been poop.. i love me savox servos.. Will definitely switch out to savox for sure.. once or before the traxxas burn out which shouldn't be long...
@Doom!
I was looking at the injoa wheels and tires they also got some really nice wet uos
 
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