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last time i held the same truck in my hands RTR and Kit was the RC10GT back in maybe 2001/02.
last 1/8 buggy i got my hands on (as in worked on it, tuned it, drove it) was a Duratrax Axis in 2002/03. (radio gear sucked but engine was good)
last nitro engine i bought was an HPI 3.0 in probably 2017(?) i want to say it was about $100 and now has probably 5 gallons run through it and has never given me a problem.
i remember when guys were building 1/8 race buggies for around $600 and RTR bashers could be had for about $500 (and the servo's sucked) they seemed to be closer in price back then and it made more sense to just buy the kit (change the servo's and you were at kit money). today a decent RTR is sub $700 and a race buggy is twice that. if you're just bashing why spend the money?

Already starting behind the proverbial 8-ball even mentioning 1/10 ST’s, and bargain basement 1/8 companies like Duratrax.. Let alone from well over 20yrs back.. Yeah-I remember when, back in my day, how it used to be, yada yada yadda.. A pack of Marlboros were $1.30, you could get a cheeseburger from McDouche’s for $.59, an entire swarm of tacos in a giant box for $5 from the Bell, and gas was under $1.15 a gallon too.. 🙄🤷🏻‍♂️🤣

Ya can’t complain about prices if your gonna refuse to do any math lol..

There is absolutely no arguing that a race grade KIT is absolutely more expensive than an RTR “version” from the same company. No argument what so ever. (This thread wasn’t made to argue it either-it was to bring attention to Kyosho’s prototype, top of the line race kit…)

However…. Since this is where you are determined to take the thread; I’ll play for a few..

You “remember when” an RTR 1/8 buggy could be had for “about $500”.. That would’ve absolutely been prior to around 2005 when RC (especially nitro 1/8) was in its prime.. A Kyosho Inferno RTR setup was closer to $600 at that time, as one of my buddies decided to jump on it-and “drive today”, rather than take my advice.. At that time, my brand new Kyosho ST-RR kit ran me $649 BEFORE my discount. And that was shipped to my door BEFORE my discount, but for the sake of argument, we won’t even figure that into the equation.. So we are $50 more for my race KIT.. Now you said “building race buggies”… Not a chance.. Building by the manual includes outfitting it with engine, servo’s, ESC, radio, rx pack, tires, glue, blah, blah, blah (yes, I’m aware that I’m ADDING to your price, and I am “team KIT” here allllll day..).. At the end of the day, You’re gonna be TWICE the cost of the purchase price for the kit, just to get it on the starter box that you also just bought.. So we are MUCH more invested dollar-wise into a race kit over a far inferior RTR-and you haven’t begun to replace your garbage radio gear, junk silicone coupled & plastic ziptied pipe/header, bought (3) new pullstarts, or replaced the sad RTR engine (and mount, because it’s taller for a pullstart at that time), flywheel, clutch, etc… What I’m pointing out here is that there are MANY things to consider when attempting to compare apples to oranges. I’m also showing that the price difference off the rip is SUBSTANTIAL, and you’re saying it’s a far bigger gap TODAY. This is absolutely false lol…😂🤷🏻‍♂️

Your comparisons of “back when…” and today are even MORE apples to oranges-you seem to remember guys “building race buggies for $600”, and apparently “today a decent RTR is sub $700 and a race buggy is twice that”… I’ve shown above that you’re not adding up the parts for a complete buggy BACK THEN… -while “today” you absolutely ARE if you’re saying that it’s “twice that” of a sub $700 RTR offering.. Not a single one of my several CURRENT kits have been over $700, in fact-I’ve payed closer to $620 shipped. One was even closer to $320 🤷🏻‍♂️

The bottom line is that there is no conspiracy going on, and that the spread is still accurate today, as compared to “way back when”..

Now… “if I’m just bashing, why bother spending the extra money???”… I don’t give a damn what “you” do with your money. However-again; for the sake of argument, IF you ask for my advice, I’ll steer you toward a kit every single time. And I will absolutely never stray from that mindset, as I’ve been doing this SERIOUSLY for a very long time. Remember my buddy I brought up who didn’t take my advice when I was asked for it? Yes-you can “drive today” for FAR less initial investment. But IF you don’t say “f-this bs!” after two weeks of constantly fixing, and wrenching on your “drive today for cheaper” big name RTR, and you actually stay in RC, then the money you spend is absolutely going to be the same, OR MORE than what you’d have spent buying a kit, a DECENT motor, DECENT servos, blah, blah, blah, because you’re going to almost certainly end up buying all that TOO, on top of that “drive today for cheaper” disaster of a vehicle.. I’ve seen it more times than I can count. You know what I’ve seen even more than that? -a broken RTR go up for sale, and a person never drive another RC again… And that person will talk CASH SHIIT about the hobby, the car, the people, his ENTIRE EXPERIENCE, because of it… That doesn’t bode well for the furthering of the hobby, and it all could’ve been avoided by simply listening to an old head when they were asked for their opinion, knowledge, and experience on the purchase.

It’s NOT as simple as “cheap servos” bud, lol.. This is what @WickedFog was trying to get across to ya.. EVERYONE knows the servos are junk. -as is the restt of the radio setup, the terrible motor, the entire exhaust, the PLASTIC spur gear (9 times out of 10), PLASTIC diff internals (or Bangladesh pot metal), the absurd DECK SCREWS throughout (I’m looking at YOU, Kyosho 🙄🤮🤷🏻‍♂️), ya know what-ALL plastics, as they are absolutely NOT the same as the race kit offerings, the shocks, the bearings, wheels/tires/inserts, the cheesedick body, drive axles, the freaking CHASSIS 😳…. -you picking up what I’m putting down? 😂🤷🏻‍♂️

What’s even worse is that 99% of the time, the forward thinking finally begins, and the new buggy owner decides, “since I’m having to constantly fix this thing, I’ll just start buying the KIT parts, and I’ll have the race kit at the end of the day anyhow, and at least I’m UPGRADING, so this isn’t so bad after all..”… Ahem… NOPE. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤣 -because 99% of the time, these RTR’s are SO inferior, that they don’t even offer full interchangeability with the KIT vehicle.. Ya know why this is the case? Because again; as @WickedFog was saying-it’s because too many people think the way you do, and are comparing apples to oranges, while expecting a massive difference in price.. And because of that, you GET IT. You also get an absolutely massive difference in QUALITY, and reliability.. You can have one, but not both. You’re 40+ yrs old, and have been in RC a long time, so you absolutely should know this.. 🤷🏻‍♂️


1748634283898.gif


I didn’t reply to pick a fight, or talk shiit.. This hobby has suffered enough over that crap imo. Too often do we run folks off over constant bickering in RC, ESPECIALLY on forums. I only wanted to shed what apparently is much needed light on this RTR vs KIT subject, as it’s a big one, and misinformation costs people time, and money-let alone success, and ENJOYMENT of these silly toy cars of ours.. 🍻😘
 
Already starting behind the proverbial 8-ball even mentioning 1/10 ST’s, and bargain basement 1/8 companies like Duratrax.. Let alone from well over 20yrs back.. Yeah-I remember when, back in my day, how it used to be, yada yada yadda.. A pack of Marlboros were $1.30, you could get a cheeseburger from McDouche’s for $.59, an entire swarm of tacos in a giant box for $5 from the Bell, and gas was under $1.15 a gallon too.. 🙄🤷🏻‍♂️🤣

Ya can’t complain about prices if your gonna refuse to do any math lol..

There is absolutely no arguing that a race grade KIT is absolutely more expensive than an RTR “version” from the same company. No argument what so ever. (This thread wasn’t made to argue it either-it was to bring attention to Kyosho’s prototype, top of the line race kit…)

However…. Since this is where you are determined to take the thread; I’ll play for a few..

You “remember when” an RTR 1/8 buggy could be had for “about $500”.. That would’ve absolutely been prior to around 2005 when RC (especially nitro 1/8) was in its prime.. A Kyosho Inferno RTR setup was closer to $600 at that time, as one of my buddies decided to jump on it-and “drive today”, rather than take my advice.. At that time, my brand new Kyosho ST-RR kit ran me $649 BEFORE my discount. And that was shipped to my door BEFORE my discount, but for the sake of argument, we won’t even figure that into the equation.. So we are $50 more for my race KIT.. Now you said “building race buggies”… Not a chance.. Building by the manual includes outfitting it with engine, servo’s, ESC, radio, rx pack, tires, glue, blah, blah, blah (yes, I’m aware that I’m ADDING to your price, and I am “team KIT” here allllll day..).. At the end of the day, You’re gonna be TWICE the cost of the purchase price for the kit, just to get it on the starter box that you also just bought.. So we are MUCH more invested dollar-wise into a race kit over a far inferior RTR-and you haven’t begun to replace your garbage radio gear, junk silicone coupled & plastic ziptied pipe/header, bought (3) new pullstarts, or replaced the sad RTR engine (and mount, because it’s taller for a pullstart at that time), flywheel, clutch, etc… What I’m pointing out here is that there are MANY things to consider when attempting to compare apples to oranges. I’m also showing that the price difference off the rip is SUBSTANTIAL, and you’re saying it’s a far bigger gap TODAY. This is absolutely false lol…😂🤷🏻‍♂️

Your comparisons of “back when…” and today are even MORE apples to oranges-you seem to remember guys “building race buggies for $600”, and apparently “today a decent RTR is sub $700 and a race buggy is twice that”… I’ve shown above that you’re not adding up the parts for a complete buggy BACK THEN… -while “today” you absolutely ARE if you’re saying that it’s “twice that” of a sub $700 RTR offering.. Not a single one of my several CURRENT kits have been over $700, in fact-I’ve payed closer to $620 shipped. One was even closer to $320 🤷🏻‍♂️

The bottom line is that there is no conspiracy going on, and that the spread is still accurate today, as compared to “way back when”..

Now… “if I’m just bashing, why bother spending the extra money???”… I don’t give a damn what “you” do with your money. However-again; for the sake of argument, IF you ask for my advice, I’ll steer you toward a kit every single time. And I will absolutely never stray from that mindset, as I’ve been doing this SERIOUSLY for a very long time. Remember my buddy I brought up who didn’t take my advice when I was asked for it? Yes-you can “drive today” for FAR less initial investment. But IF you don’t say “f-this bs!” after two weeks of constantly fixing, and wrenching on your “drive today for cheaper” big name RTR, and you actually stay in RC, then the money you spend is absolutely going to be the same, OR MORE than what you’d have spent buying a kit, a DECENT motor, DECENT servos, blah, blah, blah, because you’re going to almost certainly end up buying all that TOO, on top of that “drive today for cheaper” disaster of a vehicle.. I’ve seen it more times than I can count. You know what I’ve seen even more than that? -a broken RTR go up for sale, and a person never drive another RC again… And that person will talk CASH SHIIT about the hobby, the car, the people, his ENTIRE EXPERIENCE, because of it… That doesn’t bode well for the furthering of the hobby, and it all could’ve been avoided by simply listening to an old head when they were asked for their opinion, knowledge, and experience on the purchase.

It’s NOT as simple as “cheap servos” bud, lol.. This is what @WickedFog was trying to get across to ya.. EVERYONE knows the servos are junk. -as is the restt of the radio setup, the terrible motor, the entire exhaust, the PLASTIC spur gear (9 times out of 10), PLASTIC diff internals (or Bangladesh pot metal), the absurd DECK SCREWS throughout (I’m looking at YOU, Kyosho 🙄🤮🤷🏻‍♂️), ya know what-ALL plastics, as they are absolutely NOT the same as the race kit offerings, the shocks, the bearings, wheels/tires/inserts, the cheesedick body, drive axles, the freaking CHASSIS 😳…. -you picking up what I’m putting down? 😂🤷🏻‍♂️

What’s even worse is that 99% of the time, the forward thinking finally begins, and the new buggy owner decides, “since I’m having to constantly fix this thing, I’ll just start buying the KIT parts, and I’ll have the race kit at the end of the day anyhow, and at least I’m UPGRADING, so this isn’t so bad after all..”… Ahem… NOPE. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤣 -because 99% of the time, these RTR’s are SO inferior, that they don’t even offer full interchangeability with the KIT vehicle.. Ya know why this is the case? Because again; as @WickedFog was saying-it’s because too many people think the way you do, and are comparing apples to oranges, while expecting a massive difference in price.. And because of that, you GET IT. You also get an absolutely massive difference in QUALITY, and reliability.. You can have one, but not both. You’re 40+ yrs old, and have been in RC a long time, so you absolutely should know this.. 🤷🏻‍♂️


View attachment 236303

I didn’t reply to pick a fight, or talk shiit.. This hobby has suffered enough over that crap imo. Too often do we run folks off over constant bickering in RC, ESPECIALLY on forums. I only wanted to shed what apparently is much needed light on this RTR vs KIT subject, as it’s a big one, and misinformation costs people time, and money-let alone success, and ENJOYMENT of these silly toy cars of ours.. 🍻😘
Totally agree. The old adage in machining is "you can pick two - "quality, cheap, fast", but not all 3. Same theory stands RC, where fast represents time after acquiring the RC til time in the dirt. You simply can't have all 3. And with every RTR out there, you're likely going to have problems with failures.

I have purchased a few RTR RC's in my day, and not a single one of them was worth buying when all was said and done. Hell, you're much better off tearing any RTR you get completely apart and rebuild it yourself anyway, and at least replace the servo(s). Simply because they don't just go cheap on the electronics. Shock oil will likely be low, or shocks not assembled properly or to a high standard. Diffs will likely be shy of fluid/grease. Slippers will definitely not be adjusted correctly. Servo endpoints will be wrong. And there sometimes won't be a drop of grease or loctite anywhere that it is needed.

On top of that, kits usually come with better and/or optional parts.
 
Factual info. It’s the same in automotive service. Automotive racecars.. FOOD… Literally everything we do in all honesty lol..
Quality, fast and cheap... I've been called all 3... 🤔🤣
 
Already starting behind the proverbial 8-ball even mentioning 1/10 ST’s, and bargain basement 1/8 companies like Duratrax.. Let alone from well over 20yrs back.. Yeah-I remember when, back in my day, how it used to be, yada yada yadda.. A pack of Marlboros were $1.30, you could get a cheeseburger from McDouche’s for $.59, an entire swarm of tacos in a giant box for $5 from the Bell, and gas was under $1.15 a gallon too.. 🙄🤷🏻‍♂️🤣

Ya can’t complain about prices if your gonna refuse to do any math lol..

There is absolutely no arguing that a race grade KIT is absolutely more expensive than an RTR “version” from the same company. No argument what so ever. (This thread wasn’t made to argue it either-it was to bring attention to Kyosho’s prototype, top of the line race kit…)

However…. Since this is where you are determined to take the thread; I’ll play for a few..

You “remember when” an RTR 1/8 buggy could be had for “about $500”.. That would’ve absolutely been prior to around 2005 when RC (especially nitro 1/8) was in its prime.. A Kyosho Inferno RTR setup was closer to $600 at that time, as one of my buddies decided to jump on it-and “drive today”, rather than take my advice.. At that time, my brand new Kyosho ST-RR kit ran me $649 BEFORE my discount. And that was shipped to my door BEFORE my discount, but for the sake of argument, we won’t even figure that into the equation.. So we are $50 more for my race KIT.. Now you said “building race buggies”… Not a chance.. Building by the manual includes outfitting it with engine, servo’s, ESC, radio, rx pack, tires, glue, blah, blah, blah (yes, I’m aware that I’m ADDING to your price, and I am “team KIT” here allllll day..).. At the end of the day, You’re gonna be TWICE the cost of the purchase price for the kit, just to get it on the starter box that you also just bought.. So we are MUCH more invested dollar-wise into a race kit over a far inferior RTR-and you haven’t begun to replace your garbage radio gear, junk silicone coupled & plastic ziptied pipe/header, bought (3) new pullstarts, or replaced the sad RTR engine (and mount, because it’s taller for a pullstart at that time), flywheel, clutch, etc… What I’m pointing out here is that there are MANY things to consider when attempting to compare apples to oranges. I’m also showing that the price difference off the rip is SUBSTANTIAL, and you’re saying it’s a far bigger gap TODAY. This is absolutely false lol…😂🤷🏻‍♂️

Your comparisons of “back when…” and today are even MORE apples to oranges-you seem to remember guys “building race buggies for $600”, and apparently “today a decent RTR is sub $700 and a race buggy is twice that”… I’ve shown above that you’re not adding up the parts for a complete buggy BACK THEN… -while “today” you absolutely ARE if you’re saying that it’s “twice that” of a sub $700 RTR offering.. Not a single one of my several CURRENT kits have been over $700, in fact-I’ve payed closer to $620 shipped. One was even closer to $320 🤷🏻‍♂️

The bottom line is that there is no conspiracy going on, and that the spread is still accurate today, as compared to “way back when”..

Now… “if I’m just bashing, why bother spending the extra money???”… I don’t give a damn what “you” do with your money. However-again; for the sake of argument, IF you ask for my advice, I’ll steer you toward a kit every single time. And I will absolutely never stray from that mindset, as I’ve been doing this SERIOUSLY for a very long time. Remember my buddy I brought up who didn’t take my advice when I was asked for it? Yes-you can “drive today” for FAR less initial investment. But IF you don’t say “f-this bs!” after two weeks of constantly fixing, and wrenching on your “drive today for cheaper” big name RTR, and you actually stay in RC, then the money you spend is absolutely going to be the same, OR MORE than what you’d have spent buying a kit, a DECENT motor, DECENT servos, blah, blah, blah, because you’re going to almost certainly end up buying all that TOO, on top of that “drive today for cheaper” disaster of a vehicle.. I’ve seen it more times than I can count. You know what I’ve seen even more than that? -a broken RTR go up for sale, and a person never drive another RC again… And that person will talk CASH SHIIT about the hobby, the car, the people, his ENTIRE EXPERIENCE, because of it… That doesn’t bode well for the furthering of the hobby, and it all could’ve been avoided by simply listening to an old head when they were asked for their opinion, knowledge, and experience on the purchase.

It’s NOT as simple as “cheap servos” bud, lol.. This is what @WickedFog was trying to get across to ya.. EVERYONE knows the servos are junk. -as is the restt of the radio setup, the terrible motor, the entire exhaust, the PLASTIC spur gear (9 times out of 10), PLASTIC diff internals (or Bangladesh pot metal), the absurd DECK SCREWS throughout (I’m looking at YOU, Kyosho 🙄🤮🤷🏻‍♂️), ya know what-ALL plastics, as they are absolutely NOT the same as the race kit offerings, the shocks, the bearings, wheels/tires/inserts, the cheesedick body, drive axles, the freaking CHASSIS 😳…. -you picking up what I’m putting down? 😂🤷🏻‍♂️

What’s even worse is that 99% of the time, the forward thinking finally begins, and the new buggy owner decides, “since I’m having to constantly fix this thing, I’ll just start buying the KIT parts, and I’ll have the race kit at the end of the day anyhow, and at least I’m UPGRADING, so this isn’t so bad after all..”… Ahem… NOPE. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤣 -because 99% of the time, these RTR’s are SO inferior, that they don’t even offer full interchangeability with the KIT vehicle.. Ya know why this is the case? Because again; as @WickedFog was saying-it’s because too many people think the way you do, and are comparing apples to oranges, while expecting a massive difference in price.. And because of that, you GET IT. You also get an absolutely massive difference in QUALITY, and reliability.. You can have one, but not both. You’re 40+ yrs old, and have been in RC a long time, so you absolutely should know this.. 🤷🏻‍♂️


View attachment 236303

I didn’t reply to pick a fight, or talk shiit.. This hobby has suffered enough over that crap imo. Too often do we run folks off over constant bickering in RC, ESPECIALLY on forums. I only wanted to shed what apparently is much needed light on this RTR vs KIT subject, as it’s a big one, and misinformation costs people time, and money-let alone success, and ENJOYMENT of these silly toy cars of ours.. 🍻😘
this is where we are diverging. 99% of us aren't going to replace any of that (except for the servos after they burn out) and don't care. we know it's not kit spec or kit quality, we don't care.
i think my point is buy a base model Corvette Stingray. you're point is spend a few extra bucks and buy a Z06.

as for parts interchange. wasn't aware of that. i know they dumb the RTR's down. dogbones instead of universals. stamped aluminum shock towers instead of machined, molded plastic instead of carbon fiber, etc. figured it was all interchangeable sense making a crap load of new parts for the same car doesn't make sense. but again when it comes to nitro the only truck iv looked at side by side was the RC10GT. and to the best of my memory at least 95% of it was made up all the same part numbers. (after the kit went to the RTR style chassis, which oddly enough was superior to the original kits tub chassis)
only other trucks iv been able to compare side by side was the RC10T3, same went for that, 90+% of it was the same part numbers. and what was different was interchangeable.
if kits and RTR's don't interchange like that anymore manufactures are stupider than you think i am. :hehe:
 
this is where we are diverging. 99% of us aren't going to replace any of that (except for the servos after they burn out) and don't care. we know it's not kit spec or kit quality, we don't care.
i think my point is buy a base model Corvette Stingray. you're point is spend a few extra bucks and buy a Z06.

as for parts interchange. wasn't aware of that. i know they dumb the RTR's down. dogbones instead of universals. stamped aluminum shock towers instead of machined, molded plastic instead of carbon fiber, etc. figured it was all interchangeable sense making a crap load of new parts for the same car doesn't make sense. but again when it comes to nitro the only truck iv looked at side by side was the RC10GT. and to the best of my memory at least 95% of it was made up all the same part numbers. (after the kit went to the RTR style chassis, which oddly enough was superior to the original kits tub chassis)
only other trucks iv been able to compare side by side was the RC10T3, same went for that, 90+% of it was the same part numbers. and what was different was interchangeable.
if kits and RTR's don't interchange like that anymore manufactures are stupider than you think i am. :hehe:

My point was that the points you were attempting to make were false. It not even close to a “Stingray”-Chevrolet doesn’t offer a “garbage” Corvette, only BETTER versions.. RC company’s DO offer garbage under the sticker of a proven, and QUALITY model name.. That’s my entire point-that you are falling for the sticker.. I can’t very well explain that when you won’t take my (and other’s) word for it, seeing as you have never had them on the bench in front of you. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Hell-ya didn’t acknowledge any of your misinformation after I brought it to your attention, instead just keep moving the ball forward to “win the argument”.. I’m simply stating the facts. RTR’s have their place, and SOME succeed with them even in 1/8 buggy/truggy (though it’s rare AF, and even rarer in nitro lol). MT’s, onroad, and even a bunch of the Arrma offerings have a MUCH better chance of keeping someone in the hobby long enough to learn, and PROGRESS to a kit if they’re at all serious about running regularly, than almost ANY 1/8 RTR offering from a top tier race vehicle outfit (or under a silly sticker claiming to be equivalent 🙄)..

It’s all gravy dude, and I never called you stupid lol… 🤷🏻‍♂️😂
 
@CertifiedMike -or any “in the closet” K-car fanboi’s 😂


Also, fwiw-I’ve seen Klinik RC has started their pre-order on the all new MP11 nitro buggy @ just $600.. I can’t sit here and say the thought hasn’t crossed my mind to add a K-car to the fleet.. The best driving TRUGGY I have owned (prior to my Tekno trucks) was undoubtedly my BCE Chassi’d Kyosho ST-RR back in 2006, so my restraint may not be as good when they release the new truck-sue me.. 😅🤷🏻‍♂️
 
@CertifiedMike -or any “in the closet” K-car fanboi’s 😂


Also, fwiw-I’ve seen Klinik RC has started their pre-order on the all new MP11 nitro buggy @ just $600.. I can’t sit here and say the thought hasn’t crossed my mind to add a K-car to the fleet.. The best driving TRUGGY I have owned (prior to my Tekno trucks) was undoubtedly my BCE Chassi’d Kyosho ST-RR back in 2006, so my restraint may not be as good when they release the new truck-sue me.. 😅🤷🏻‍♂️
Clearly this guy has been reading my posts!!! 😍🤣

This was a VERY refreshing review on what appears to be a HUGE LEAP forward for Kyosho Racing!!!! I mentioned a few times that a NEW Optima Mid, Lazer... the NEXT 1/10 4x4 is in the way for sure!!! I'm holding out for that too!!! 🤣

This MP11 is pretty cool looking/sounding. A lot of new, redesigned, strengthened and lightened parts...
They actually built somethng different here! This is EXCITING NEWS!!!!

I am watching this thing now!!!
There WILL be a Team, Custom, Pro or 'R' version of this being released.
I want THAT one!!! 🥰😎😁

@Littlemotor I NEED to see your build on THIS!!! 😲❤️🤯🤯🤯

I really enjoyed this interviewer's positivity in a sort of 'only my team is good' kind of environment!!! He's HIRED!!! 😎👍
Great points made and I can't think of anything I disagree with anything he said really.
He did leave out...

KYOSHO RULES!!!

odoyle rules.gif


And a few seconds of candy... 🥰

 
you should buy the RTR.


:hehe:

:stick:

I'm just trolling this thread at this point :hehe:
Hey now. 😁
There will never be an RTR for something like that. Theres an RTR or ARTR, then there's a kit. 2 different groups of people are being targeted here, and one of em is getting the inferior product every time, with the illusion of "I'll be ripping in about 30 min when my battery charges".
 
I've been wanting a Mayako for some time, this looks enticing as well.

They ARE super nice.. JQ is taking those further away from “American style” tracks unfortunately with his lay down suspension design.. No good for me at that point..

Did I mention I won't race with it? Ever? Nope just drive the snot out of it.

KILLER!!! Join the club brotha!! 🍻🤘
 
No Mayako truggy yet?
I don't want to derail this thread,
They ARE super nice.. JQ is taking those further away from “American style” tracks unfortunately with his lay down suspension design.. No good for me at that point..



KILLER!!! Join the club brotha!! 🍻🤘

but I suppose I will anyway. What is the lay down suspension?
 
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