New here, looking for tips and to introduce myself.

[2GMitsubishi]

Howdy I'm Dennis and I've been a mechanic on gas, Diesel engines as well as all kinds of machinery for the last Ten solid years. Done everything from an oil change to swapping motors to make a race deadline.
I am naturally falling in love with Nitro RC because to be honest here, They are temperamental and finicky like a Race Car is and thats the part of Wrenching I love the most.

Well what I've got right now is a Volcano S30 with the .18SH engine and what I've done so far went like this.
5 tanks for break in one to idle through, one at each 1/4 throttle increment until at full throttle with 15min rest breaks in between each tank and yep I had it at BDC for the break periods.
After that I upgraded the shock supports with aluminum so the truck doesn't drive like a piece of plastic anymore and has some kind of righty.
Next up was a fuel filter of corse followed by a Mild port and polish job on the sleeve ".5mm deep and 2.5mm long fangs. I also rounded out the bottom of the sleeve and polished that as well.
Next up was the piston skirt, It was rounded and polished at the bottom of the skirt to help with packing and cycling through the 2 strokes.
It runs great much better than it did during break in @Full Throttle.
I do have a question about steering related to suspension set up. I have a high ride level and in return my steering does not want to move due to a jammed servo turnbuckle. If I lower the truck then no issues.
My question is how do I ride high and be able to steer still? Washers on the steering linkage?
I've already flipped the shackles and that helped but only a little.

Anyways I suppose I'm done with my little book now thanks for reading.

 

[watertrucker]

Hi Dennis. Welcome to RCNT! I had a Volcano S30 a while back. Had the green semi-truck body. I sold it to a buddy of mine, but I liked the SH.18, good running engine. Can't really help with suspension, never messed with it much but hopefully someone else will chime

 

[2GMitsubishi]

Yeah I'm liking it so far. Keeping a tune to hold in 48degree weather has been interesting although.
Hopefully it gets better with warmer weather.

 

[k3mist]

Welcome!

Can you post pictures of what is blocking the linkage from moving? I'm sure everyone would love to help but hard to without seeing the problem..

And just an after thought, is it clearance you're worried about or travel when landing?

If it's just travel you could always move to a higher spring rate with a heavier shock oil.

 

[2GMitsubishi]

Yeah I am new to forums my bad.
It was two things I found. 1: Riding high and being on a stiff setting in the front was causing the arms to rub the Aluminum framework creating unwanted friction.
My solution was to lower the front suspension one setting and keep a stiff profile.
2: The servo turnbuckle on the left side was way too tight on the bottom bolt also causing steering resistance.
So I loosened it and applied loctite.

 

[k3mist]

Nice, sounds like you figured it out then.

 

[2GMitsubishi]

Yeah I usually do.
Get bored and tinker a lot.

 

[bifft it]

my solution.....
there is noting a dremel can't solve on RC. I would just take a little material off the housing where the turnbuckle end is rubbing.
the turnbuckles an my savages are upper suspension control arms with a turnbuckle between them. on the savageX they rub on the differential carrier housing a little so i have had to take a bit of material off at the point where they rub and drag

 

[2GMitsubishi]

I was thinking about doing that to the frame to free up some room.

 

[olds97_lss]

Welcome to RCNT!

After all that work on the engine, did you get a better flowing header and tuned pipe? The stock header on that thing is pretty rough on the flow. The platform is a lot like the HPI Nitro MT2 or more closely to the HPI Bullet MT:
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/107006

The manifold/pipe from that rig might open up a bit more power for you. At least the manifold/header.

 

[2GMitsubishi]

It came with the header and tuned pipe from the factory. the newer redcats do now.. Id like to go to an HPI pipe although.

 

[olds97_lss]

The header I saw in the manual was a harsh 90 degree bend header.

Looks like redcat does offer a better one, 02031A:

Looks like they also have a polished pipe, http://www.redcatracing.com/102009-OEM-Parts

 

[2GMitsubishi]

Thats what is on mine. The high flow header they offer and the tuned pipe.. I took a .308 shell and put it on the end to make the sound a little deeper without effecting the back pressure.. It actually works too haha

 

[olds97_lss]

The shell on there might look cool, but only takes one stick to bend/kink/crack the stinger. The less you have sticking out, the better.

I've ruined a few pipes in my years.

Maybe get a silicone extender, then ziptie the bullet casing to that. Then you have a flex point.
https://www.rcplanet.com/1_10_Exhaust_Deflector_Black_p/rce10178bk.htm

 

[Certified Mike]

Hi Dennis! Welcome to RCNT!

 

[2GMitsubishi]

Thanks for the tip olds. And hi Mike.

 

[ninnon]

Welcome to RCNT Changing things like exhaust lengths and modifying engines is usually only done for people who are serious about the hobby and may of considered racing, an is usually best left alone for newbies. However, since you've already done it, and you sound like you know how to use a dremel, then you should be good to go

 

[2GMitsubishi]

I've been an automotive and machinery technician most of my life so I factor in as many variables as I can before mods get done.
I'm never afraid to seek guidance if I don't know something.
because learning is power haha

 

[ninnon]

I've been an automotive and machinery technician most of my life so I factor in as many variables as I can before mods get done.
I'm never afraid to seek guidance if I don't know something.
because learning is power haha

Once you get a feel for Nitro RC, then you can always come back to the engine modding It's a great hobby when you've got the car running properly and you can easily fix most problems.

 

[2GMitsubishi]

That makes a lot of sense ninnon.
Reminds me of when I first broke into building rotary engines..
Everyone told me I was wasting my time because the engines were "too complicated" but after sticking with them for a few years and learning by way of trial and error I learned they are some of the simplest engines made..
Just a handful of people have the patience and flexibility to learn that about them unfortunately.
I am sure its the same with nitro engines, I just have to stick with it until I can grasp a complete understanding of these little monsters.