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- Messages
- 1,485
- Reaction score
- 2,601
- Location
- Iowa
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
- Crawling
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- Thread starter
- #22
So I put in a temporary drive shaft just to do some preliminary tuning.
It’s amazing how the parts don’t add up to performance. I wonder how many people buy or build something and are not happy with it. Only because of a couple minor adjustments.
So first run it was very harsh and bouncy. After close inspection the front suspension is to soft. I like the suspension to settle with at least 50% of shock travel left over. With the battery out front the soft spring was to soft. So I put in stronger springs.
I have a sort of test rock. It a vertical climb about 10 inches high. Is should just drive up with no wheel spin. I say that because my other rig with all the same parts just drives up it with no wheel spin.
I spent about three hours adjust shock position and shock spring s to finally get it to dkk ok that climb.
Next is a verticals jump. I climb up a rock face and punch it.
It can launch itself pretty well but it seems to be just to punchy and the wheel speed was crazy. I spent some to playing with gearing. 13, 12,10 it just did not want to hook up.
I changed to a 1500kv out-runner from the 2200kv Revolver. That made it pretty nice. Smooth enough but still has a funny problem. When trying to jump up t on a ledge. Like the other one can hop straight up. This rig spins or flips back.
So looks like the weekend will be interesting.
It’s amazing how the parts don’t add up to performance. I wonder how many people buy or build something and are not happy with it. Only because of a couple minor adjustments.
So first run it was very harsh and bouncy. After close inspection the front suspension is to soft. I like the suspension to settle with at least 50% of shock travel left over. With the battery out front the soft spring was to soft. So I put in stronger springs.
I have a sort of test rock. It a vertical climb about 10 inches high. Is should just drive up with no wheel spin. I say that because my other rig with all the same parts just drives up it with no wheel spin.
I spent about three hours adjust shock position and shock spring s to finally get it to dkk ok that climb.
Next is a verticals jump. I climb up a rock face and punch it.
It can launch itself pretty well but it seems to be just to punchy and the wheel speed was crazy. I spent some to playing with gearing. 13, 12,10 it just did not want to hook up.
I changed to a 1500kv out-runner from the 2200kv Revolver. That made it pretty nice. Smooth enough but still has a funny problem. When trying to jump up t on a ledge. Like the other one can hop straight up. This rig spins or flips back.
So looks like the weekend will be interesting.
- Messages
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- Central California
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It is crazy how little things make such a big difference.
- Messages
- 1,485
- Reaction score
- 2,601
- Location
- Iowa
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
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- Thread starter
- #24
One of the problems with this or maybe it’s the fun of this, is all the adjustments. Like a bunch of knobs to turn. But everything seems to be worse. Turn right turn left nothing seems to help.
What I try to do is center everything. Then try to figure out if it’s my driving style. Then one adjustment at a time.
Greet way to spend a weekend.
- Messages
- 9,193
- Reaction score
- 16,412
- Location
- Central California
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Flying
It's also tricky when you are starting from scratch, and have to look at multiple things that could be contributing, rather than if you had just added something new to and existing rig. I know you'll get it figured out.
- Messages
- 1,485
- Reaction score
- 2,601
- Location
- Iowa
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Flying
- Thread starter
- #26
It’s an evolutionary process.
What is started with was a basic Injora Scx10 clone. Start playing and modifying stuff.
I kinda accumulated about three very different rigs. With a test corse that is consistent I found one that out performed the others. So I put the “good stuff” from the best rig on the worse rig and up graded the best rig even more.
Now I have a rig that just kills it and am trying to make my other rigs as good.
So I can at least compare one to the other.
I don’t use much lock tight because I’m always taking stuff apart and changing things.
What is started with was a basic Injora Scx10 clone. Start playing and modifying stuff.
I kinda accumulated about three very different rigs. With a test corse that is consistent I found one that out performed the others. So I put the “good stuff” from the best rig on the worse rig and up graded the best rig even more.
Now I have a rig that just kills it and am trying to make my other rigs as good.
So I can at least compare one to the other.
I don’t use much lock tight because I’m always taking stuff apart and changing things.
- Messages
- 9,193
- Reaction score
- 16,412
- Location
- Central California
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Flying
- Messages
- 1,485
- Reaction score
- 2,601
- Location
- Iowa
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Flying
- Thread starter
- #28
After changing spring and shock locations and the motor twice. And then changing the shocks all together and changing Shock location , link location and the spring preload I finally got it to at least complete the tough climbs. It still a bit rough. And it’s wet and getting dark.
Tomorrow I’ll take it to the big rocks and see if it’s crap or not.
WARNING
Just hit mute for this video.
Unless you like the sound of a revolver motor. Then crank it up like an old stereo with an AC/DC record spinning.
Tomorrow I’ll take it to the big rocks and see if it’s crap or not.
WARNING
Just hit mute for this video.
Unless you like the sound of a revolver motor. Then crank it up like an old stereo with an AC/DC record spinning.
It would seem that two smaller batteries would be easier to place than on big one. Has anyone run dual batteries to even out the weight distribution?
Perhaps a single 1s on each running board, or if you are running 4S run two 2's on each side?
Perhaps a single 1s on each running board, or if you are running 4S run two 2's on each side?
- Messages
- 1,485
- Reaction score
- 2,601
- Location
- Iowa
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Flying
- Thread starter
- #32
Almost went to the big rocks but it started raining. So I went back to the yard corse.
I just don’t love the Cliffhanger body. I respect it. It has a perfect shape. Does everything greet.So I’ll use it definitely. But my first RC was a Toyota pickup. J I’m actually had an 1988 Toyota pickup and loved it. So it was my first choice as an RC.
But the bed part is smashed so the cab got tossed into the bold body stack. It’s ruff but I kinda dig the look. Plus it’s not a party McFly truck.
I just don’t love the Cliffhanger body. I respect it. It has a perfect shape. Does everything greet.So I’ll use it definitely. But my first RC was a Toyota pickup. J I’m actually had an 1988 Toyota pickup and loved it. So it was my first choice as an RC.
But the bed part is smashed so the cab got tossed into the bold body stack. It’s ruff but I kinda dig the look. Plus it’s not a party McFly truck.
Attachments
- Messages
- 1,485
- Reaction score
- 2,601
- Location
- Iowa
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Flying
- Thread starter
- #33
I’m taking this build in a new direction. I am planning to go to the 2022 Scale Nationals. In April 8-10 2022.
I want to build a class 1 and class 2 rig. The class one is a total build and that has to wait. Probably till 2023 actually. But for class 2 I just need some minor stuff.
I have this rig really set up the way I like it and only need to change a few things.
High clearance links. And move some stuff around.
I want to go to AR45 portals.
I also need to build a scale hardbody to maximize my scale points.
So being the imaginative type I ordered an RC4WD Mojave body.
Going to pinch the nose and bob the bed.
Make a full interior.
Make metal bumpers and headache bar.
Add in some scale accessories
Winch system so I can winch from any direction quickly.
It has to be waterproof.
Not sure about the power system.
I ordered the body and axles. The rest has to wait till Christmas. But I have plenty to do building the body.
Thinking about painting it like it was an old U Haul cab and paint the bed a different color . Then salt and sand it and cover it with yellow then make it look like it’s all faded.
So it looks like someone built it out of an old U haul Toyota.
I want to build a class 1 and class 2 rig. The class one is a total build and that has to wait. Probably till 2023 actually. But for class 2 I just need some minor stuff.
I have this rig really set up the way I like it and only need to change a few things.
High clearance links. And move some stuff around.
I want to go to AR45 portals.
I also need to build a scale hardbody to maximize my scale points.
So being the imaginative type I ordered an RC4WD Mojave body.
Going to pinch the nose and bob the bed.
Make a full interior.
Make metal bumpers and headache bar.
Add in some scale accessories
Winch system so I can winch from any direction quickly.
It has to be waterproof.
Not sure about the power system.
I ordered the body and axles. The rest has to wait till Christmas. But I have plenty to do building the body.
Thinking about painting it like it was an old U Haul cab and paint the bed a different color . Then salt and sand it and cover it with yellow then make it look like it’s all faded.
So it looks like someone built it out of an old U haul Toyota.
Silicon conformal coating works great for waterproofing. I've literally driven my Wraith underwater in creeks.
- Messages
- 1,485
- Reaction score
- 2,601
- Location
- Iowa
- RC Driving Style
- Racing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Flying
- Thread starter
- #35
I’ll check that out. Is it a puffy or spray?
I usually put the receiver in a waterproof box. My Gladiator fell threw the ice last year. That is the only real water test I have had.
I usually put the receiver in a waterproof box. My Gladiator fell threw the ice last year. That is the only real water test I have had.
You brush it on like paint. I de-cased all my electronics and coated them. Servos, ESC, everything. I loved playing in the snow too, so it has to be waterproof.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals...coating+for+electronics&qid=1634317545&sr=8-2
I've used the same stuff as well as other types of coatings. The MG coating is one of the best products I've used for waterproofing
