Need Traxxas X-Maxx input

[Tunedfrog]

Funny you mention that, you don’t drink because of work, well, both my wife and I are nurses and we don’t do anything that would show up on a drug test. However, when we’re not at work and we’re not driving, would you pass the bottle over here to me please? Especially when we go on vacation.

actually, if you know John Holmes from Holmes hobbies, he talked a lot about the guy who was part of the development team for the TRX four and he knows the guy personally from years ago, and he relates that it doesn’t surprise him that he came out with a very good product because of his background from putting crawlers together when they were handmade and not commercially made. The stock tires are decent the frame and suspension are definitely above average to a great degree, of course aftermarket support is way above average,The electronics, well, the motor is good, differential servos good, receiver and transmitter adequate, steering servo below average, but acceptable as long as you don’t expect too much.

Since you are buying the kit you’ll get to enjoy putting it all together, not sure if it comes with a body or not, depends on what you want. If you get to choose your body if I had to do it all over again I would go with light weight but I like the defender body what can I say? Lots of accessories are available for it, again, I went with some brass accessories including diff covers,hubs, front servo mount, metal bumpers front and rear……

youtube channel rc review Does a really good job of doing very detailed reviews of crawlers and crawler equipment, even though here lately he has been working a lot of stuff other than crawlers but if you look at his video list it is very extensive and he is very straightforward on crawler stuff

Cool thing about crawlers, I have a well used 3S battery 2200 mA, and if it’s fully charged, I bet you I can go 30….40 maybe even 45 minutes of trail running, rock jumping, crawling sliding whatever…

another benefit of crawling is that the basic wear and tear on your vehicle is very minimal. Jumping a 30 pound rig 10 feet in the air and landing on one wheel sideways 25 foot in the distance could lead to an expensive repair job in no time at all. But on your average go out with your trail runner and crawl some stuff run down the trail a bit see what you can do going up this embankment, etc. etc. you don’t get a lot of breakage….. but make no mistake you can spend a lot of money on upgrades. Just don’t worry too much about having to spend a lot of money on repairs, because other than the speed control, I would give the Traxxas TRX for a definite a for build quality and durability. I’m sure you will enjoy it. By the way I think I need to go and have my third strong drink if you’ll excuse me…….

Thanks for the service from the both of you.

 

[STONER RC]

Is all right.....

you are correct, a lot depends on how a person uses there rig they have..... and yes, upgrading/strengthening one aspect of a rig can develop a new 'weak' spot....

I personally find RTR to be - for the mainstream - a good place to start..... I have spoken to several people who have been in RC since the 70's/80's..... RC has come a LONG way.....

Some guys who have done MANY builds suggested to buy rtr and fix/upgrade as I go - - - -it works for me

I understand what you said regarding silky smooth - but it sounds like he had a plan, and he is happy with what he has, so, I won't fault him for that.

There never has been - and never will be - a perfect RC rig.....first, because to build one would be $$$$$$$$$$$$$.....
second.....someone would bash it till it broke (Kevin Talbot, anyone?)
third.....whats perfect for one is not for someone else

Yep, its FRIDAY -

WIFE JUST WALKED IN THE DOOR..... GOTTA GO

Its cool he did all that. Just not my cup of tea. Plus Thats funny that you talked to seasoned hobbiest.. I got my first RC in the late 80s. And never looked back.. got first nitro at 20 21. Around 99 2000... And I 100% agree with them. Theres not a 100% RTR in any RC group. And the RTR is a good base line for hobbiest to start from. And great for beginners that don't have a clue.. But building them is so much better. You build as if you were upgrading it. With all all parts you would want insteadof swapping them after a few weeks or months.. I've built 2 in the last year and a half.. one nitro one electric.. then bought (RTR) the X and the MERV.. I was going to buy upgrades like a esc , tires. shocks, cooling fans, steering, servo, gears well I did, arms, diffs the whole 9. Then said for a 1000.. let's see what everyone is crying over.. and I was shocked and pleasantly pleased..I still went over everything couldn't push it across floor by hand that's how tight the gear mesh was.. thats a norther reason why people are burning gears..and the diff don't come completely filled. Mine had a good amount in them just toped them off..
BUT TO be completely honest with you.. changing the esc and motor. And the spur/pinon. Won't make it a 30lb heavier truck shoot stock its 20lbs. So 10lbs NO WAY.. And it needs a " bigger stronger faster servo" from the start. The traxxas ones are OK but crap. And adding stiffer shock springs and the reservoir shock caps and the proline belted tires won't lower the center of gravity. Or make it Handle better at high speeds. Like it was on rails.. So I don't know what he is even talking about bud. But if he thinks it did something for him then so be it oh well... to each their own....

 

[Greywolf74]

Its cool he did all that. Just not my cup of tea. Plus Thats funny that you talked to seasoned hobbiest.. I got my first RC in the late 80s. And never looked back.. got first nitro at 20 21. Around 99 2000... And I 100% agree with them. Theres not a 100% RTR in any RC group. And the RTR is a good base line for hobbiest to start from. And great for beginners that don't have a clue.. But building them is so much better. You build as if you were upgrading it. With all all parts you would want insteadof swapping them after a few weeks or months.. I've built 2 in the last year and a half.. one nitro one electric.. then bought (RTR) the X and the MERV.. I was going to buy upgrades like a esc , tires. shocks, cooling fans, steering, servo, gears well I did, arms, diffs the whole 9. Then said for a 1000.. let's see what everyone is crying over.. and I was shocked and pleasantly pleased..I still went over everything couldn't push it across floor by hand that's how tight the gear mesh was.. thats a norther reason why people are burning gears..and the diff don't come completely filled. Mine had a good amount in them just toped them off..
BUT TO be completely honest with you.. changing the esc and motor. And the spur/pinon. Won't make it a 30lb heavier truck shoot stock its 20lbs. So 10lbs NO WAY.. And it needs a " bigger stronger faster servo" from the start. The traxxas ones are OK but crap. And adding stiffer shock springs and the reservoir shock caps and the proline belted tires won't lower the center of gravity. Or make it Handle better at high speeds. Like it was on rails.. So I don't know what he is even talking about bud. But if he thinks it did something for him then so be it oh well... to each their own....

Adding the castle electronics and bigger gears maybe added 1.5-1.75lbs to the kit. As for springs and shock oil thats all going to depend on the type of terrain you drive on mixed with some personal preference.

 

[Jon NC RC]

A LOT ..... is personal preference...

For many, stock is ok......but will haver problems with hubs eventually, is what I'm hearing. ESC ? With time, maybe, unless they just putz around the yard with it. Arms, eventually.....

However, at the other end of the user spectrum.....Never forget the first time I heard about someone sinking $5k in a rig.....or seeing one USED for sale for $3500......

There is an amazing variety of RC people out there. I lean heavily towards the former...... I work hard for my money, and I dont want to needlessly throw it away. I prefer to buy a rig, get used to it, start to push it harder when I get used to it, and fix/upgrade as I break something or see something I see is a problem and needs to be changed.

In the former Soviet Union, there were 2 models of cars available to the general public. Most people couldn't afford them, but you had a choice if you COULD, this one, or that one.

We have many choices in just our RC rigs, and many choices of what to do with them.

I will never go 100 mph with an rc car, or do 60 feet in the air like Kevin Talbot or Rich Duperbash. Maybe I'm just boring. I invited feedback, and I am appreciating it. I will probably never go as extensive as some in upgrading, but I have this feedback as a reservoir in case I need suggestions on facets that I feel need to be upgraded/changed.

And yes, I used to put plastic model kits together as a kid.

My brother is SOOOOO much more inclined as mechanic in 1;1 cars (at least the ones from the 60's and 70's) than I ever will be.... but I can tinker, and, at this stage, am looking at doing my first build....probably be a Kraton 8S EXB....a simple build...... hey, for me, with my aptitude and experience, it fits.

In the future..... who knows?

Thanks to everyone for their input

 

[STONER RC]

A LOT ..... is personal preference...

For many, stock is ok......but will haver problems with hubs eventually, is what I'm hearing. ESC ? With time, maybe, unless they just putz around the yard with it. Arms, eventually.....

However, at the other end of the user spectrum.....Never forget the first time I heard about someone sinking $5k in a rig.....or seeing one USED for sale for $3500......

There is an amazing variety of RC people out there. I lean heavily towards the former...... I work hard for my money, and I dont want to needlessly throw it away. I prefer to buy a rig, get used to it, start to push it harder when I get used to it, and fix/upgrade as I break something or see something I see is a problem and needs to be changed.

In the former Soviet Union, there were 2 models of cars available to the general public. Most people couldn't afford them, but you had a choice if you COULD, this one, or that one.

We have many choices in just our RC rigs, and many choices of what to do with them.

I will never go 100 mph with an rc car, or do 60 feet in the air like Kevin Talbot or Rich Duperbash. Maybe I'm just boring. I invited feedback, and I am appreciating it. I will probably never go as extensive as some in upgrading, but I have this feedback as a reservoir in case I need suggestions on facets that I feel need to be upgraded/changed.

And yes, I used to put plastic mode together as a kid.

My brother is SOOOOO much more inclined as mechanic in 1;1 cars (at least the ones from the 60's and 70's) than I ever will be.... but I can tinker, and, at this stage, am looking at doing my first build....probably be a Kraton 8S EXB....a simple build...... hey, for me, with my aptitude and experience, it fits.

In the future..... who knows?

Thanks to everyone for their input

That's got to be the best way bud I've been buying , building , bashing , breaking , fixing , RCs for over 20+ yrs.. there NO reason to upgrade a kit before you drive it. Or try to figure out what will go wrong or break on it before you have it.. that's like trying to pick lottery #s. Million different ways it can go..

The RCs are made of plastic and aluminum. And they are designed to have break points. That's why there are SOOOO many aftermarket parts and spare parts. The manufacturer and designers know they will break after a certain point.

The X is a true RC monster truck.. the X is huge for a RC. Stock it weighs in at 19-20lbs.. and with the rite lipo and stock gears does 45-50mph. That's crazy for the pure size of the X.. because pictures and video give it NO justice.. I was shocked when it got delivered to my house..

And like you said everyone is different as to there experience and driven skills. You can't take what one says or the other and use or put it into your situation.. everyones situation is different.. and so are all the RC upgrades and parts..

In all my yrs with running RCs.. and doing upgrades.. the X is the first I haven't ripped apart from the box. And with its size you really need a wide open area to drive it in.I'm going to quote WOLF " it's like a microwave doing 45mph at you".
With what you read and hear about the rear hubs breaking. Is because they are jumping it 30-40 feet in the air and landing on back tire. I jump my 10 15 feet with no problems yet.
But I have the RPM rear hubs. Still in package just in case. Also ordered the new traxxas HD A arms "blue" new bearings and harden steel gears. Because the aluminum ones suck. Still running the stock tires. I added glue to them out of the box..

They haven't ballooned on me because I don't use the auto flip or full throttle while upside down. The auot flip only works in certain terrain. And slams truck forward and back full throttle to balloon tires so it can grip the ground. Hence blown gears/ diffs and blown apart tires.. its all about the use of the RC and that with any RC..

If you wanted to get upgrades. For it to have just incase. Then I would go with first CASTLE all the way don't bother putting in hobbywing. Much better programming.. and set up. Then hobbywing..
Harden gears pinon/spur mine 20/50 but have a few different sets
RPM or traxxas HD A arms
RPM rear hubs for if and when
Good set of bearings "fasteddys"
Good set of lipos

Get the truck drive it jump it get used to it. With the way you use it. And go from there..its all about personal preference.and how you want it to be..Sorry I just dont like when people spit out stupid miss info to a good guy asking for real info.. don't want you to buy it then hate it and hate your self for getting it.
If you really want a truck that's fast and handles. Like it is on rails. Then I suggest the Kra8. Ask Wolf he has it. He will tell you it's crazy fast and stick to the ground... My hesitation with it is all the aluminum on it.. Not a big fan of aluminum in RCs. Looks good but changes the break points to different areas and parts.. don't get me wrong. I will be getting one. But if you wanted to build one. Start off with the rolling chassis. You will only need tires, body and electronics.. instead of build the whole truck.. the roller is about 4-500.. plus I would go with the castle line for esc motor. Much better set ups and programming then hobbywing... can't wait to see what you get or build. Have a great weekend sure we will talk again bud

 

[Jon NC RC]

That's got to be the best way bud I've been buying , building , bashing , breaking , fixing , RCs for over 20+ yrs.. there NO reason to upgrade a kit before you drive it. Or try to figure out what will go wrong or break on it before you have it.. that's like trying to pick lottery #s. Million different ways it can go..

The RCs are made of plastic and aluminum. And they are designed to have break points. That's why there are SOOOO many aftermarket parts and spare parts. The manufacturer and designers know they will break after a certain point.

The X is a true RC monster truck.. the X is huge for a RC. Stock it weighs in at 19-20lbs.. and with the rite lipo and stock gears does 45-50mph. That's crazy for the pure size of the X.. because pictures and video give it NO justice.. I was shocked when it got delivered to my house..

And like you said everyone is different as to there experience and driven skills. You can't take what one says or the other and use or put it into your situation.. everyones situation is different.. and so are all the RC upgrades and parts..

In all my yrs with running RCs.. and doing upgrades.. the X is the first I haven't ripped apart from the box. And with its size you really need a wide open area to drive it in.I'm going to quote WOLF " it's like a microwave doing 45mph at you".
With what you read and hear about the rear hubs breaking. Is because they are jumping it 30-40 feet in the air and landing on back tire. I jump my 10 15 feet with no problems yet.
But I have the RPM rear hubs. Still in package just in case. Also ordered the new traxxas HD A arms "blue" new bearings and harden steel gears. Because the aluminum ones suck. Still running the stock tires. I added glue to them out of the box..

They haven't ballooned on me because I don't use the auto flip or full throttle while upside down. The auot flip only works in certain terrain. And slams truck forward and back full throttle to balloon tires so it can grip the ground. Hence blown gears/ diffs and blown apart tires.. its all about the use of the RC and that with any RC..

If you wanted to get upgrades. For it to have just incase. Then I would go with first CASTLE all the way don't bother putting in hobbywing. Much better programming.. and set up. Then hobbywing..
Harden gears pinon/spur mine 20/50 but have a few different sets
RPM or traxxas HD A arms
RPM rear hubs for if and when
Good set of bearings "fasteddys"
Good set of lipos

Get the truck drive it jump it get used to it. With the way you use it. And go from there..its all about personal preference.and how you want it to be..Sorry I just dont like when people spit out stupid miss info to a good guy asking for real info.. don't want you to buy it then hate it and hate your self for getting it.
If you really want a truck that's fast and handles. Like it is on rails. Then I suggest the Kra8. Ask Wolf he has it. He will tell you it's crazy fast and stick to the ground... My hesitation with it is all the aluminum on it.. Not a big fan of aluminum in RCs. Looks good but changes the break points to different areas and parts.. don't get me wrong. I will be getting one. But if you wanted to build one. Start off with the rolling chassis. You will only need tires, body and electronics.. instead of build the whole truck.. the roller is about 4-500.. plus I would go with the castle line for esc motor. Much better set ups and programming then hobbywing... can't wait to see what you get or build. Have a great weekend sure we will talk again bud

Ok... I'm open for suggestions..... where is a 1/5 thru 1/7 roller for $4-500?

Yeah, the whole aluminum vs plastic issue..... other manufacturers would need to imitate Traxxas with the plastic structure to really compete with the X....less weight, flex vs bend, etc

I have spoken with dozens (literally) of people who go Hobbywing for esc....Max 5/6....
You are one of a very few who feel strongly about Castle.....

can you be more specific as to WHY? I know speed runners go for them a LOT..... why for an X? (specifics, please)

 

[Greywolf74]

Ok... I'm open for suggestions..... where is a 1/5 thru 1/7 roller for $4-500?

You can find em out there, just gotta keep your eyes peeled on various forums/ebay

Yeah, the whole aluminum vs plastic issue..... other manufacturers would need to imitate Traxxas with the plastic structure to really compete with the X....less weight, flex vs bend, etc

The K8 stock weighs 25lbs, the Xmaxx weighs 19lbs. With my after market chassis I bet mine is more like 27ish lbs. Its like a microwave that will tear ass through your yard at 35MPH

I have spoken with dozens (literally) of people who go Hobbywing for esc....Max 5/6....
You are one of a very few who feel strongly about Castle.....

can you be more specific as to WHY? I know speed runners go for them a LOT..... why for an X? (specifics, please)

I'm also in this category. Castle isnt much more expensive than HW but they are better quality and have a lot more programming options and sometimes datalogging depending on the ESC. Since the price difference usually isnt all that much I would rather pay a little extra for the Castle. I dont hate on HW dont get me wrong, I still run one of their old ESCs in one of my Rustys but back when I bought HW 10+ years ago they were a lot cheaper. Their 10th scale stuff still tends to be be cheaper in price but I also feel like theres a bigger quality gap in the smaller scale stuff too. Just my .02

 

[STONER RC]

Sorry was outside dealing with pool....
I did alot if research when I built my Tmaxx conversion. Well more like E/Tmaxx build.. and I was going to put a HW in it at first..Their esc are waterproof and everyone swears by them. They have programming as well.. And can take alot of abuse. And they are in a good price range. I mean for a esc max5 isn't that bad. Or the max6 But it sometimes cuts out during runs and acts up. Everyone has there own opinions about this subject..
But after being told to look into the castle line.. I was shock as too the capability of it . Unlike everyone says the castle is waterproof. It also has programming. One with a Bluetooth plug that you can link to your phone for quick adjustments in the field. You also can hook it too a pc for even more programmability. And depending on the esc. Basically the monster X and above you have data logging. Where it will tell you everything that the esc and motor are doing. In each of you runs. Witch is awesome. Because you really can see how the set up is performing. From the volts the motor pulls and the timing of motor the esc temps power draw and power to motor. It's insane.. also the castle esc has programmability for slow low speed capability.. witch is awesome cause you can use the X has. Huge crawler and not have to worry about over heating the esc. So when my X esc takes a I will be putting the Castle XL or XLX2.... theh both are good companies . And both have their own capability. But for the $$ for them I would go CASTLE....have a few videos about both I will put up for you.. so you can watch and compare and have your own opinion bud
Shoot even MR. Smooth up above with his so called Xmaxx. He fired a hobbywing esc. Well he says he did. Then went to a castle
Because everyone says to go with the Maxx hobbywing.. well that's because they don't want to spend the $$ on a castle.. you get what you pay for.. But in 1000$$ RC truck. I'm not going to go cheap on the electronics that controll it... But that me. And my .02 cents

 

[Jon NC RC]

Sorry was outside dealing with pool....
I did alot if research when I built my Tmaxx conversion. Well more like E/Tmaxx build.. and I was going to put a HW in it at first..Their esc are waterproof and everyone swears by them. They have programming as well.. And can take alot of abuse. And they are in a good price range. I mean for a esc max5 isn't that bad. Or the max6 But it sometimes cuts out during runs and acts up. Everyone has there own opinions about this subject..
But after being told to look into the castle line.. I was shock as too the capability of it . Unlike everyone says the castle is waterproof. It also has programming. One with a Bluetooth plug that you can link to your phone for quick adjustments in the field. You also can hook it too a pc for even more programmability. And depending on the esc. Basically the monster X and above you have data logging. Where it will tell you everything that the esc and motor are doing. In each of you runs. Witch is awesome. Because you really can see how the set up is performing. From the volts the motor pulls and the timing of motor the esc temps power draw and power to motor. It's insane.. also the castle esc has programmability for slow low speed capability.. witch is awesome cause you can use the X has. Huge crawler and not have to worry about over heating the esc. So when my X esc takes a I will be putting the Castle XL or XLX2.... theh both are good companies . And both have their own capability. But for the $$ for them I would go CASTLE....have a few videos about both I will put up for you.. so you can watch and compare and have your own opinion bud
Shoot even MR. Smooth up above with his so called Xmaxx. He fired a hobbywing esc. Well he says he did. Then went to a castle
Because everyone says to go with the Maxx hobbywing.. well that's because they don't want to spend the $$ on a castle.. you get what you pay for.. But in 1000$$ RC truck. I'm not going to go cheap on the electronics that controll it... But that me. And my .02 cents

No prob, please post the videos , and will look closer for the ESC stuff.....

Yeah, enjoyed this AM guys, but now....its time for outside and work on a retaining wall project that has haunted me since late winter.....

 

[Doom!]

@Jon NC RC Make sure that retaining wall has a custom section for your future rock crawler to play on. What? Of course you'll need a new rock crawler.

 

[STONER RC]

@Jon NC RC Make sure that retaining wall has a custom section for your future rock crawler to play on. What? Of course you'll need a new rock crawler.

Oh man I thought the same thing when I read that.. he's got the TRX-4 defender.. they should definitely be some obstacles added into the wall for crawling features.

 

[STONER RC]

"MAMBA MONSTER X 8S, 33.6V ESC W / 2028-800KV SENSORED MOTOR" https://www.castlecreations.com/en/...v-esc-w-2028-800kv-sensored-motor-010-0165-01

"EZRUN MAX 5 ESC (3-8S) – HOBBYWING North America" https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/ezrun-max5-esc?variant=4075974916

 

[Jon NC RC]

@Jon NC RC Make sure that retaining wall has a custom section for your future rock crawler to play on. What? Of course you'll need a new rock crawler.

Or….an RC apprentice with fpv to fly over it!!!!

"MAMBA MONSTER X 8S, 33.6V ESC W / 2028-800KV SENSORED MOTOR" https://www.castlecreations.com/en/...v-esc-w-2028-800kv-sensored-motor-010-0165-01

"EZRUN MAX 5 ESC (3-8S) – HOBBYWING North America" https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/products/ezrun-max5-esc?variant=4075974916

Good grief!!!! I know what I’ll be watching for the rest of the weekend!

Oh man I thought the same thing when I read that.. he's got the TRX-4 defender.. they should definitely be some obstacles added into the wall for crawling features.

Actually guys, on our property, we have about an acre of woods and the previous owner had started walking path on it. It has been my goal to create a walking path that also doubles as a crawler/basher Trail…there are elevation changes and other features that would work very well, indeed!!!!!!

a 25 foot start to go off a 15 foot drop with basher
start at the bottom with a crawler….
yeah, stuff like that

 

[STONER RC]

Or….an RC apprentice with fpv to fly over it!!!!

Good grief!!!! I know what I’ll be watching for the rest of the weekend!

Actually guys, on our property, we have about an acre of woods and the previous owner had started walking path on it. It has been my goal to create a walking path that also doubles as a crawler/basher Trail…there are elevation changes and other features that would work very well, indeed!!!!!!

a 25 foot start to go off a 15 foot drop with basher
start at the bottom with a crawler….
yeah, stuff like that

NICE THATS AWESOME!!!! That would be a spot. I didn't want to just give one video. If you search

HW max5 vs castle Monter X. Or

Castle XL vs HW max 6

Also the Castle XLX2. That's a BIG boy.

But now there word and video of the HW cutting out mid bash session or run. I'm not sure if it's at low speed. Or it's at High speed bash sessions.. looking into it more