Need help setting up Jato suspension

[19frank90]

Ok so I re-did the springs and shock oil on the front and back of my Jato because they seemed to sag and (at least the front) when compressed didn't spring back up. I put 1.4 (pink) rate springs in front and 2.0 (double black) rate in the rear and 60 weight oil all around.

Now, the front is great, push down and it stands right back up but the rear still seems to sag making the front of the car point up on an angle.

If it's not the springs what else do you think it could be?

I also have 80W oil I used on my MERV I could try if the 60 is too light. If not that I could always tighten the preload adjusters up front to bring the front-end down more.

Thanks guys

 

[tmaxxfreek]

the lighter the oil the faster it will spring back up, but that will also upset the car at high speeds, go with a stiffer spring if you can, or change out your shock pistons.

 

[synnyzter]

Would have to recommend the revo variable rate pistons. Uses 2 holes during compression and 4 for a faster rebound. Put them in my slayer, they make a difference and are cheap.

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[BOUTCH]

Ill go with tmaxxfreek on that one, should just go with stiffer springs.

 

[celibritye]

What's up

Trying to get sum info I have a ofna dm1 was wondering if anyone nows what I can use for the muffler extension for pipe to body no about the rubber u can buy that u tie strap but looking for some other or better method any input would be great thanks

 

[synnyzter]

Nice hijack...

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[19frank90]

Thanks, I know traxxas has a 2.3 rate spring available for the Jato. I'll hit hobbytown later to see if they have any

 

[19frank90]

I'm dopey. All I had to do was tighten the spring preloads in the rear to raise the rear end. Great weather today for it too. Kept popping wheelies when it'd shift

 

[tmaxxfreek]

just make sure it stays stable,when your running it, sometimes a higher ride height will cause it to be unstable as well.

 

[olds97_lss]

Also be careful with big air. I've busted 4 or 5 TRX2.5 crank cases in mine and one OS18TM crank case... cracks the engine where the ears mount, then it leaks like a sieve and doesn't run well at all.

I actually went so far as to create a dam with tape under the engine, then created a pool of jb-weld after oiling the chassis and engine base to keep the jb from sticking. When the jb was still "liquid", I installed the engine and tightened everything down. This spreads the load out over the entire crank case and not just the ears. I haven't busted a single crank case in probably 2 years of HARD bashing.

Before doing that, I'd break one about every other outing.

Photo's of my crank case issues:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75027