Build Thread My Ultima Pro (re)Build Thread KIT NO.3117 from 1989 ish.

[cbaker65]

I've done a test fit on all the linkages, I do have some smaller screws that were in it and will work fine with these ball ends. A few of my linkages are definitely too short with this setup. I ordered some of those Acer ti turnbuckles. The price is too good to pass up.

A few more parts trickling in, still a waiting game.

Poking around the net looking at battery things. Some of those vintage batteries are high dollar! I was amazed, even for sets that don't function. I poked a meter at my packs, the assembled red and yellow Sanyos had .3-.5 volts per pack. Some rust on the ends, not sure if they could or should be charged. The red unopened Sanyo pack reads an average of .659 v per cell, total of 3.952 v. They are very clean, not bad for a 38 year old battery pack.

Even those Duratrax packs read 3.282 and 3.783 volts each. I don't know if I ever actually used those or not. I'll likely charge one of those up and use it for my smoke test.

Anyway, on the net I found some of those red Sanyo 6 packs on sale for $169-$200! Good grief. Apparently some folks like to use them just for their vintage shelf riders.

The "battery bugs" were used to discharge a battery after use. Kind of fun going through all this old stuff.

Not sure if it's practical or worthwhile to take these apart and clean them up. I'm sure the packaged set and the Duratrax batteries will take a charge and be able to be used.
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Losi's description of what a matched set of batteries is/was. I should call that number and see if anyone answers. (I just did, it is "disconnected or no longer in service") $49 when I bought them 38 years ago.
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Oh gosh that brings back old memories ,I had the Tamyia Boomerang ,bigfoot & the Losi JR2 ,also had the Modified
Twister motor!..
Nice restoration work!..

 

[JRFisher]

Bed time:

 

[WickedFog]

Pretty awesome chassis on that thing. Looking forward to seeing the finale.

 

[JRFisher]

Pretty awesome chassis on that thing. Looking forward to seeing the finale.

Thanks! It's coming along nicely. Been a lot more fun than I would have thought.

 

[JRFisher]

Oh gosh that brings back old memories ,I had the Tamyia Boomerang ,bigfoot & the Losi JR2 ,also had the Modified
Twister motor!..
Nice restoration work!..

I appreciate the kind words. It's sure shook loose some cobwebs for me.

 

[JRFisher]

I was planning on using the sway bars as it was designed. However, these Andy's A arms don't look like they will allow me to do so on the front end. Bummer. There's just not enough clearance on the steering linkage. There is not a place to mount the ball link on the arm, I thought I would just drill a hole and screw them in. But when I did my dry run assembly, I can see that they interfere with the steering linkage. The stock A arms had a little indention in the A arm that allowed them proper clearance. I quickly dismissed the thought to form an indent in these swing arms, as that would weaken them. I was concerned about that considering just drilling a hole through them but figured it would be ok to do that. But not a notch. The second pic shows my considering mounting the ball link inside the A arm by turning it around. I don't think that will work either. Once I get my turnbuckles and a fully mounted condition I will look again. But for now, I think I will have to go without. Kind of a bummer, but back in the day I clearly had them both removed for normal running and racing. I'm curious what normal is? Does it still make sense to run just the rear sway bar? This is easy enough to reconfigure at a later date, just pondering.

 

[WickedFog]

I was planning on using the sway bars as it was designed. However, these Andy's A arms don't look like they will allow me to do so on the front end. Bummer. There's just not enough clearance on the steering linkage. There is not a place to mount the ball link on the arm, I thought I would just drill a hole and screw them in. But when I did my dry run assembly, I can see that they interfere with the steering linkage. The stock A arms had a little indention in the A arm that allowed them proper clearance. I quickly dismissed the thought to form an indent in these swing arms, as that would weaken them. I was concerned about that considering just drilling a hole through them but figured it would be ok to do that. But not a notch. The second pic shows my considering mounting the ball link inside the A arm by turning it around. I don't think that will work either. Once I get my turnbuckles and a fully mounted condition I will look again. But for now, I think I will have to go without. Kind of a bummer, but back in the day I clearly had them both removed for normal running and racing. I'm curious what normal is? Does it still make sense to run just the rear sway bar? This is easy enough to reconfigure at a later date, just pondering.

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You can buy offset link ends. These would solve your problem. It kinda looks like they would make the steering link geometry better anyway.

 

[JRFisher]

I am aware of those, certainly something to consider.

 

[JRFisher]

Well, I'm about to do a smoke test. Just a little apprehensive about this.
Disassembled the servo, it was clean as a whistle inside, even some original grease inside I redistributed.
Those screws are the weirdest screws I have ever seen, about 1/2 turn and they are all the way out. Never seen a screw like that before.

The Receiver as a bit dirty inside. Cleaned it up and put it back together.

Speed controller was the same, cleaned and put back together (actually I did this a while back, but just now reassembled. and fixed the bad 3 pin plug.

Took the transmitter apart to clean and inspect, it was a bit dirty inside as well.

Discharged, charged, discharged, and charged again this old Duratrax battery. It seems to hold a charge and the charger seems to function as expected.

Filled up the transmitter with 8 batteries, it turned on just fine, even made my computer speakers put out some static.

Is it time for a smoke test of the cars electronics?

 

[JRFisher]

I tend to get ahead of myself sometimes, I put the power to er. The motor spun up like full speed I would guess, I cut it off immediately. Tried a few different settings on the controller but same result. I might actually have to refer to the manual. What's the world coming to?

I also tried it without the motor connected, servo would just twitch but no response to the controller.

It continues...

 

[JRFisher]

A massive YEE HAW was heard throughout the house!

It was just a simple connection error but all is well with the Vintage world at the Fisher household. I read the manual, set the neutral on the speed control, set the high point on the speed control, plugged in the motor, SHE"S ALIVE!

That old motor was a bit squeaky, nothing a couple drops of oil on the bearings/bushings couldn't cure.

The old battery and charger worked well. Holy cow, 38 year old electronics every step of the way and it all functions as it should.

More amazing is the fact all this stuff was packed away in a box in 1990, stayed with me through 4 house moves, and subjected to a flood in 2013 (that was the cause of most of the crud I cleaned off the rig and from inside the electronics).

I couldn't be more tickled.

 

[JRFisher]

 

[WickedFog]

Very nice job Jeff. I think I had that same charger and I know I had that exact same radio at one time. Very cool rebuild!

 

[JRFisher]

Very nice job Jeff. I think I had that same charger and I know I had that exact same radio at one time. Very cool rebuild!

It's been fun, plenty left to do but this was quite milestone.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Same here. I think I still have one of those chargers somewhere with a Peak Master shut off switch! Magnum Jr is on a shelf upstairs.
Fantastic to see all that gear working again!
I can't believe that battery is still going!!!

Andy's arms were 'lightweight' for racing. I'm not sure if you could get them with swaybar links.

This build is GREAT!!!
Fantastic that you were able to save it ALL after a flood!!!

 

[JRFisher]

Same here. I think I still have one of those chargers somewhere with a Peak Master shut off switch! Magnum Jr is on a shelf upstairs.
Fantastic to see all that gear working again!
I can't believe that battery is still going!!!

Andy's arms were 'lightweight' for racing. I'm not sure if you could get them with swaybar links.

This build is GREAT!!!
Fantastic that you were able to save it ALL after a flood!!!

I'm as surprised as anyone. Amazing the battery itself is functional much less the rest of the electronics.

I researched a fair bit and was encouraged by what I read.

 

[WickedFog]

I'm as surprised as anyone. Amazing the battery itself is functional much less the rest of the electronics.

I researched a fair bit and was encouraged by what I read.

Those old batteries will often charge ok. It's the mAh that takes a hit. Even when they were new, the run time often went to crap fairly quickly on them.

 

[JRFisher]

Those old batteries will often charge ok. It's the mAh that takes a hit. Even when they were new, the run time often went to crap fairly quickly on them.

I'm not expecting much from those batteries. It's just the idea of the whole thing actually still working.

I'll take this rig to the track for a fun run then probably sit it on a shelf. I might throw a whole new set of electronics in it if I want to run it more often. I have no specific plans though further than getting a few laps at that track in it's original form.

I wonder if a LiPo could function after sitting that long unattended to?

 

[WickedFog]

I wonder if a LiPo could function after sitting that long unattended to?

Even if it could be revovered (charging it back up from the dead) it would be very dangerous to do so. The internal resistance would be degraded to the point it would probably burn up the first blip of the throttle. And you'd have to trickle charge it up over 3v/cell before you could even charge it in balance mode. I highly doubt you could recover one that old.

 

[JRFisher]

I got the Acer Ti turnbuckles in today. I can move slightly forward again. Little steps.

They are completely serviceable, almost exactly as advertised. Price is very good compared to others I saw.

The online pics show a cut on the left hand thread side, it is non existent on mine.

Aint no big deal, you can just spin it in your fingers and figure that out right quick. I colored them with black and red sharpies,
(you know, red positive, black negative). Just keeps it easy. Easily removed with alcohol if you so choose.

Lengths I specified seem dead on. Really the only reason I was swapping them out, the fronts specifically were a little short considering the longer Andy's A arms combined with that shock tower having slightly wider mounting holes. There was just not enough threads engaging for my comfort. I mean, this does have to hold together for some actual driving.