My Rustler 2wd build 2.0

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New Traxxas Talon EXT tires from the rustler 4x4.
New Traxxas rear wheelie bar and mount (broke the original blue one I had) And because of the original one, I had spare blue aluminum / rubber wheels with bearings so I took the OEM plastic wheelie bar wheels off and kept those for spares.
New RPM front bumper (original one I had broke where the screws went into the bulkhead)
And just to try it out, gorilla tape chassis protector.
Talon tires are a little bit bigger than the anacondas. Was running 27/76 gearing so I might gear down to either 23/76, 20/76, or 23/86, 20/86. Not really sure yet.
Talon tires are a bit smaller than the old Duratrax Lockup MTs I have so that is good.
Should be able to do well in the offroad now. Mainly in the baseball diamond, park mulch, and grassy fields. I will keep the anacondas for street use only, as they are old and getting bald.
And just to try it out, I don't have clay track slicks yet for this car, so I put the slash (SCT) ones on here. Looks wonky and weird, but it works. I did it before with 4WD 2.2 buggy spec wheels/tires and with those, I got no suspension as they were not enough wheel to raise the car up to get the suspension to actually move/dampen.

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I am using Traxxas aluminum nuts for the wheels.

Didn't clarify, it was a nut for the steering link into the steering hub. I just stole one off of the slash. Gonna get a hardware kit soon for more 5.5mm nuts.

This time with the talon tires I got the right offset front and rear. Part number 6774 and 6773 if I remember correctly
 
Broke the bellcrank last time so getting a new one. Hot Racing one. Also burnt out the servo I had so put in my spare Traxxas 2075R servo. Also getting a pair of ProLine Bald Eagle MCs for the track.
 
Got a set of DE's in yellow. David, you using serrated wheel nuts with those DE's? The way the wheel nut facing is made on the DE's cry's out for serrated.

My DE's give about an extra 1/2" of track width on the Rusty. Track rules where you run o.k. with that?

Looking good. Good luck. 'AC'
 
David, you using serrated wheel nuts with those DE's? The way the wheel nut facing is made on the DE's cry's out for serrated.
Yes I am using the Traxxas aluminum ones. Should be serrated. I used to use cheap Amazon ones I got like 2 years ago and they got worn out and they would always backout. I'll add wheel nuts to my wear and tear parts check lists to keep them fresh over time.
My DE's give about an extra 1/2" of track width on the Rusty. Track rules where you run o.k. with that?
Yea track is alright with it. At Beach RC I will be testing it out for practice. Might race it and the slash in Mod truck or mod sct.

Just installed the bellcrank. It is a hot racing aluminum bellcrank and a carbon fiber drag link. Got that installed. Just waiting for the other pair of tires which should be here tomorrow.
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Might get this same bellcrank for the slash depending how I like it.
 
Looking good. You might want to keep a spare bellcrank crossslink in spares in case the CF one fails.

Have a TRX bellcrank in the wish list for my DragSpec Rusty. What made you choose the HR bellcrank assy over the TRX?
I personally wouldn't buy the TRX aluminum stuff simply because it's overpriced. HR stuff is very nice, and a bit cheaper.
 
I personally wouldn't buy the TRX aluminum stuff simply because it's overpriced. HR stuff is very nice, and a bit cheaper.
Hey Kev. Thanks. Yeah pricing is a bit stiff on the TRX bellcrank. Too its credit it is a direct no-hassle fit so there is some benefit to that. Have one on my SpeedSpec Rustler.

CF as a bellcrank link in the HR is suspect based on my experience using CF. Certainly it is strong enough. My only concern is that CF being soft the mounting holes might oval out with use? Maybe not. Something to check for on routine maint. though.
 
Hey Kev. Thanks. Yeah pricing is a bit stiff on the TRX bellcrank. Too its credit it is a direct no-hassle fit so there is some benefit to that. Have one on my SpeedSpec Rustler.

CF as a bellcrank link in the HR is suspect based on my experience using CF. Certainly it is strong enough. My only concern is that CF being soft the mounting holes might oval out with use? Maybe not. Something to check for on routine maint. though.
I don't know man. Carbon fiber is really tough. Hard to machine, and wears out carbide and diamond cutters that would blast through aluminum like melted butter for months. I don't see it wearing any faster than aluminum.

One good benefit is that carbon weave they use on that is a pretty durable one. It would allow flex in really hard hits that I would think would permanently bend an aluminum one.

I don't have one, so just guessing. But I plan to grab one when I start ripping the mismatched aluminum bits off our drag slash. Currently the car has green bits on it. Wanting them all black.

It has the HR aluminum trans on it, and that thing was beautifully machined.
 
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