My Rustler 2wd build 2.0

[DavidB1126]

This is my Rustler 2wd build 2.0. On my other build thread I started a year ago and I haven't updated it a lot. So this thread will be more current and will be more updated frequently.

History of the car: Got the car at my old LHS back in late 2020. I kept brushed for a long time until I had enough. I upgraded to brushless a few months ago.

Here is a list of upgrades that are on the car right now

Hobbywing max10 60a with 3652 4000kv motor (XT60 to TRX battery adapter)
Using 2s lipos
23t pinion / stock 86t spur
Radiolink rx/tx
OMG 20kg full metal gear servo
Aluminum bellcrank
Aluminum camber and toe links
RPM arms front and rear
RPM bumper
RPM rear wheelie bar mount
TRX wheelie bar with aluminum wheels and bearings
Aluminum Caster and steering blocks
Aluminum rear hubs
Traxxas anaconda street tires/wheels
TRX clear rustler body (painted blue, silver, orange, don't have the wing since it broke off)
Bearings in hubs and transmission
RPM front bulkhead

And I think that is all. If I am forgetting anything I will post it later. Pictures are coming later as well.

 

[DavidB1126]

When I had the SCT system in it.

 

[ahr43]

Always good seeing another 2WD Rustler build. Looking forward to seeing images of the build. Lots of trick parts in it now. 'AC'

 

[DavidB1126]

Also something else to note. It was a stock xl5 brushed version. Which came with bushings and all Phillips hardware. I had changed out to all sealed bearings and changed over to all hex hardware. Some Philips hardware still remains on the car but there in places I really don't do maintenance at.

 

[ahr43]

Hey DavidB. Regarding replacement hardware. Sounds good. Replacing the Phillips heads seems a popular thing to do. On my recent chassis up build for the R43X, used Axial hex head self-tapping screws where I could replacing TRX Phillips in OEM locations. Still the odd Phillips scattered about in the build-as wtih your build. A lingering throw-back to the days of old, if you will.

Still have the oilite axle bushings from the first two Rustlers I built back circa 2001-2002. In the event I ever really get the urge to do a chassis off retro build.

At one point in the past, did a stainless steel fastener kit, but that fell out of favor with me over time. Went back to carbon steel as my preference. Did dabble in titanium. But usually Ti was a rolled thread fastener and was not a snug fit in a previously cut thread hole. As a result, canked using those too.

Keep your build going. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[DavidB1126]

Last night with the rustler. I put the SCT system in and the better transmission and driveshafts from the slash. I also fitted the buggy tires and they fit. So at the track I will switch tires between both cars.

 

[DavidB1126]

Build update!

Haven't driven it in a long time, probably since the start of summer.

Going to try to fix up the rear big bore shocks, if that doesn't work I will order off of Jenny's RC a set of stock Ultra shocks just to get things moving. (Problem with the Big Bores is that they had a leaking issue. Tried to rebuild them, but those C clips that hold all the rings in the body is so hard to put back in)

Thinking about getting Traxxas Talon tires so I can go offroad, I have 2 sets of Anacondas which are 2 years old and are almost bald now. - and I do wanna get
some bashing in before the season ends.

Been thinking about racing this in the 2wd 17.5 Buggy class, because we don't have enough STs on a normal club race (most likely none) so Ill run with the 2wd Bugs. Thinking about T4.2 wheels (set), Fuzz Bites rear, Swagger fronts. I seen a local guy selling a set of tires which are Pin Down rear and Swagger front for 30bucks so might pick that up rather than buying new. Pin Downs would most likely have more traction than the Fuzz Bites. But we will see. Going to keep it rear motor, was thinking about mid motor conversion, but its just too much work, time, and I don't have the tools to do so. I know that @luke66 is making one, and @ZaneC is on a mid motor bandit? (Could be wrong)

I was looking and thinking about different ESC/motor combos earlier today. I can either stick with my Max10 G1 / 4000kv sensorless setup, or I am thinking about a XR10 Justock / V10 17.5 Motor or 10BL120 G1 / V10 17.5 motor, so I can race this in the long run. Most likely won't happen, but it would be cool seeing this against 2wd Buggies.

I will be racing this on indoor carpet. I got a pair of slicks, so I might just get another pair, another set of wheels, and might take this to the local clay track sometime. Just need some traction compound.

In the shocks, ill run what I used in my slash which worked out good for me, which is 40wt rear and 50wt front. Before in my slash, I was running 40wt rear and 35 front, as I was going to Beach RC in a couple days, and on carpet, it had too much body roll, and it was hard to turn fast enough, so if I went down the straight, turned, the other car would already be caught up with me. Maybe need a more speedy-er servo? Probably.

I did get a pair of Traxxas EHD driveshafts from the Rusty 4x4 from AMain, so those will replace the stock ones. Surprised the stock ones are still alive after 3 years. But before I can do that, I need to figure out how to get the pin out of the stub axle, as the pin is bent and seized in.

With this, you can see me getting more into racing day by day. I think its a good start to start with these, and then once I'm done, ill move on to comp / race kits. Already have 4wd Bug (B74) and Mini B (which recently we haven't been running) so I think 2wd would be fun with this. I would be more into bashing if I had more RC action around where I live.

 

[DavidB1126]

Wrenching today. Got the bent pin out. Old stock driveshafts out and in the spare parts bin. New EHD shafts in. I also tightened up a few loose screws. And put the stock plastic spur in. Used to have the Hot Racing Steel. Took that out as I am going to be racing. Might get a 83T and 76T plastic spur and see what works best for me, the electronics, speed, and the track. Currently running 23/86. Most race 2wd Buggies and stadium trucks are in the 72T to 78T spur range. I will also do the same for the slash.
Ordered tires. Went with DE racing T4.1 wheels. Fuzz bites rear, swagger fronts. And we will see how they do at the track this week for racing.
Also got the rear ultra shocks in from Jennys RC.

Been really thinking about getting the 272R from Jennys RC for 90 bucks, again like my slash, since I am racing. Since I am upgrading and trying to sell stuff, but selling stock Traxxas and Losi Parts, really ain't working, so I might stick to what I have, or get the 272R and keep the 272 as backup.

 

[ahr43]

This is gonna be good, David. Seeing a Rustler represented in racing. Like the mods you're making. I'll have to wish list the EXD driveshafts for a try. Been looking at the 272 as well.

Be prepared for a good deal of kidding and smack talk from the guys and gals on the driver stand when you field Rusty. Until you best them in a race. Then they'll say your cheating (because they are and you beat them. . . ). J/k. All part of racing. Have fun. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[DavidB1126]

Forgot to put this, but those new EHD axles, are pretty smooth at the u joints. Might consider getting a set for the slash. For the slash currently if MIP X duty axles which are super heavy, these could lighten it up.

 

[ahr43]

Hey David. One thing that works for me is getting the truck close with pinion gearing and then change out the spur to hit the sweet spot. Think I read somewhere once, at least with 48p teeth, a spur is good for about 1/2 the ratio change of a pinion. 32p with a more coarse tooth count, not so much so.

Which brings into the dilemma of a Rustler trans change from [stock] 48p to [mod 272] 32p. Lot stronger teeth, but gearing changes are less tunable in search for the elusive sweet spot.

Good luck. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[9x19]

The 272R in the 2WD models is 48 pitch from the factory, but of course you can change the spur to a 32P if you want. I used the 272R in my Raptor (2WD) build. It's built on a LCG chassis with Drag slash a-arms. I'm running 48P in it and it works just fine for my uses. Current setup is 22/83 and that works good (with 2S or 3S) for the area I run it in. Good luck with your Rustler!

This was one of those body first builds... came across the body at a really cheap price, then later built a rolling chassis to host it.

 

[ahr43]

Thanks for the heads-up on the 272 48p 9x 19. Appreciate knowing that and it is working both 2s and 3s for you. My bad. Mixed it up with the Pro-Line 32P transmission which is also on my wish list. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[DavidB1126]

Tires are in and ready for some racing. Just have to actually glue them up. Got the wheels. Which fit. Using stock Traxxas spec hexes for the front and cheap Amazon aluminum hexes rear. Offset is pretty close so it's all good. For me at least. If it works it works. I'll see how the tires do. With the swagger fronts, we will see how wear is. Hopefully it lasts a long time. I was using the same swagger tires for my 4wd Bug and they worn down once I got started racing in June. Got those tires back in February. On my Mini B I am using the same type wedge tire and it's like new so it should last a good time for 1/10 2wd. Now for the front. I had to cut the body since the tires rubbed at full turn / lock. I could turn down the EPAs but just wanted to be safe.

 

[ahr43]

Looking good. Pro built, even. Front tires on carpet won't be chucking any detritus into the chassis so trim should work to your advantage. Like you trimmed back the rear wing too. Standard config carries a lot of rear wing.

Good luck. Hope she scores a podium for you. Looks like a winner anyway. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[9x19]

Lookin' good.

I put the RPM wide front arms on my old Stampede, so now it uses the same (front) offset wheels front and rear.

https://rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a-ar...-arms-for-the-traxxas-e-rustler-stampede-2wd/

 

[Doom!]

Looks good, nice clean cut on the body.

 

[DavidB1126]

Tires were pretty good. Did have some traction rolling issues. Probably because I have to dial in my suspension. Thinking about 50wt front and 40wt rear as my slash is the same and other cars. Did have cutting out issues like I had with the buggy, probably new receiver time. I also lost some steering like it wouldn't turn right. Found out the shock tower screw that goes into the bulkhead keeps backing out. And it wasn't a long enough screw. Figured it out and fixed it 2 times. So they were waiting for me for the main for about 10 mins.

Traxxas - the fastest name in radio control! #traxxas4life

Also, my transponder mounting situation was a bit awkward. I used Velcro for the first qual, and came undone. second qual and main I put it under the battery strap. And for the main I forgot to plug the transponder in, or it came unplugged, as I was using a little servo extension since I have to use the receiver box for the rustler. And the extension, the plug wouldn't stay in well so I had to tape it all up to get it to stay in.

Little note, I ran this with the 2wd 17.5 Buggies. And maybe messed some of them up off their pace, because this car is slow. I mean, its 4000kv so once you get going, your going, but around the turns, not as good, and I have to really slow down in the turns due to my slow servo and turning radius. Its not like a dime with the high end buggies.

Qual 1: Started last, finished last, 40% consistency, fastest lap of a 10.5, which I do not believe that, and average of a 30. And behind 6 laps

Qual 2: Since I am getting to know the car a bit better, 62% consistency, fastest lap of a 12.034, average of a 20.9. and behind 1 lap. Started last, finished last.

B Main: Started last, finished last. Basically didn't even run because I was having transponder issues, and steering issues. -normal traxxas, so its alright.

Once I get suspension good, a better / faster servo, and more driving behind a ST, should be able to actually get some good racing in.

 

[DavidB1126]

 

[ahr43]

Yeah, any jumps I made had to be 4ft wide to hit 'em.