Motor and battery question

[Sweetlou0069]

Hello I have a hpi sprint flux 2 that can take 2s lipo I was looking on Ebay and see plenty different esc n motor that take 3s ( wich is what I want ) what is the difference between a expensive n a cheap one ? Will it still work n be as fast just might break faster ?? Any one ever tried this one on pic ? Thx for info

 

[cbaker65]

Hello I have a hpi sprint flux 2 that can take 2s lipo I was looking on Ebay and see plenty different esc n motor that take 3s ( wich is what I want ) what is the difference between a expensive n a cheap one ? Will it still work n be as fast just might break faster ?? Any one ever tried this one on pic ? Thx for info

I am not too keen on electrics & the cheap products that is out there on market ,however ,I did build one ,an did use a cheapy!

I ran 3's on a cheap 60 amp ,it did ok until I had totaled the car ,then after that ,the ESC didnt work no more ,I think that
the hit killed it though!

I think that it would be ok if you monitor the heat ,an make sure that it can handle 3's ,an also watch out for the gear
ratio ,certain gear ratios can create heat!...

But I would wait awhile ,an get more opinions about it!....

 

[Sweetlou0069]

Ok thank you

 

[cbaker65]

Ok thank you

This is what I was using ,except ,those batts are 2's ,but later ran the 3's!

 

[olds97_lss]

Looks like the motor that comes in the RTR Sprint 2 is a 3650 sized motor. I have a feeling the one you linked to is that big at the fins, but really is a smaller motor. When running 3S, you may want to look for a 3650-3665 sized motor that is 3500kv or less and gear up a bit. A 3500kv motor on 3S is really screaming. I ran the castle sct sv3/3800kv on 3S for a while in my stampede, I believe that motor was 3654 sized and it howled at WOT on 3S and ran hot. I now run a 3100kv 3665 sized motor and it doesn't scream so much and runs cooler. I had to gear up a tooth or two to compensate for the lost speed, but it's still more punchy. I'm running a hobbywing max10 sct/hobbystar 3100kv 3665 motor in my stampede on 3S.

I'm not sure I'd recommend the setup I have for your car. May not be as necessary to run a lower kv/higher torque motor considering it's size/weight/rotational mass compared to my stampede with trencher 2.8's on it. I just know my 3800kv ran hot and sounded like it was in pain on 3S. So I can't imagine what a 4370kv would sound like. lol!

 

[LibertyMKiii]

I tried that cheap JRelecs esc on a 1/10 on road car. It worked but it was like a light switch full throttle or off.
After 30 seconds of use (I did program the radio to the esc/throttle calibration over and over) I sent it back and got a Castle ESC.

-Liberty

 

[RustyUs]

Spend the extra money on the ESC. The extra low budget ones are very hit-or-miss with low quality assurance.

Hobbywing QuicRun 10BL120 and a 10.5T of your choice.

 

[Roanoke RC group]

Hello I have a hpi sprint flux 2 that can take 2s lipo I was looking on Ebay and see plenty different esc n motor that take 3s ( wich is what I want ) what is the difference between a expensive n a cheap one ? Will it still work n be as fast just might break faster ?? Any one ever tried this one on pic ? Thx for info

Yeah, that is a cheap combo, but it's really only the ESC that is bad. I run one of those motors on 4s all the time. I got a Max10 SCT paired up to it

 

[D3MON]

as said above, dont skimp on the esc, motors i would recommend to get a good one but not crucial. had a few bad ESCs smoke batteries/themselves before. I'm just really happy i was using NIMH not LiPo.

 

[JvG]

Fully agreed, get a good esc like a Hobbywing Max10.
This is what happens with cheap stuff.
Went full throttle on it's own and crashed into a fence, happily no one got hurt. I realized that it could be much worse, like hitting a kid and i never bought cheap stuff again. That's the difference!