more probs for me

[petal2thametal]

more probs. going crazy.
helloooo (again)

iam beginning to be the one thats posting the most probs questions here.

okey my starterbox runs the engine now.
but another * * * * piep piep pieeeeep problem.
i got airbubbles in my fuel line. the one from the tank to the engine. and when i prime the the tank the fuel goes slowly trough the line but with airbubbles and when i stop the fuel slides down again.

going

iam beginning to look like a noob that doesn't know *piep*
hmn maybe i am a noob but not a stupid one :n00bie:

enyone know something about this? :worship:

 

[ImBroken]

Is it affecting the performance of the engine? If not, I wouldn't worry too much about it. You will always see occasional bubbles in your fuel line, I dont care what anyone says... lol

 

[olds97_lss]

You more than likely have an air leak somewhere.

When does it do this? When the engine is hot or cold?

 

[petal2thametal]

it begins when i prime the engine. the fuel doesn't go up smoothly and there are bubbles in the line and when i stop priming it. the fuel goes down again.

:shrug:

 

[olds97_lss]

Yes... I got that, but I wasn't sure if the engine was cold (not run yet) or hot (died while running).

Sounds like you definitly have a leak though. You may want to try and seal the carb neck and banjo fitting with silicone. Check the tank for cracks. Check the tank lid for proper seating and check your fuel and pressure lines for holes. There's just so many places an air leak can be that it's agrivating to find and fix sometimes.

I'd start with the carb neck and banjo fitting first though.

 

[petal2thametal]

sorry :smoke: when cold. engine havnt run once yet. brand new

 

[olds97_lss]

Hmmm.... stupid new toys! Did you check your idle gap visually? Take the air filter off, screw in the idle screw until you have about a 2mm gap in there. It may be shutting off the fuel flow completely. I know mine doesn't prime will unless I set the trim to about 4mm open.

What vehicle/engine is it?

You may want to reset your carb needle settings to what the manual says they should be. They aren't always right.

 

[petal2thametal]

its a 12R xs 1,35 hp hpi engine rear exhaust. the idle opening is 1mm according to the manual, and i checked it
the manual explains the needle settings for break in. i presume thats also for the startup settings..right?

btw, thnx for your time

 

[olds97_lss]

Break in settings are pretty much factory default. Check your needles and set them to break in settings. I'd open the gap up a little, about 2mm should be enough.

Also, check your high speed needle housing. Make sure it's tight on the carb.

 

[vbgagnon]

try running it like that. Air bubbles are not that big a deal unless it makes a crazy lean condition. I wouldn't worry about it too much! Throw that thing on the starter box and let er rip.

 

[olds97_lss]

As you break the engine in, you will start to lean out the needles to gain performance. Just make sure not to rush the break in process.

Is this your first nitro?

 

[madnking]

sounds like your primer may be leaky if the primed fuel doesn't stay in the line. The primer should prevent the fuel from flowing backwards for the most part

 

[petal2thametal]

helloo. thnx all for the replys. well some how its all fine now. very weird. hope it wil start tomorrow.

iam gonna heat cycle the engine. using the wot procedure. have read some good commends about it. hope it works otherwise :flaming:

 

[hb1111]

i would follow manufactors recommendation!!!!

 

[olds97_lss]

I think the WOT break in is for plane engines, not surface engines. Plane engines don't run the RPM's that surface engines do. And, they have a prop on them to keep heat in check. I would never suggest using the WOT method on a surface vehicle, but hey, it's your $. If it doesn't blow apart on you, let us know!