Melted/stuck wheel hex “disc” nut—Traxxas UDR

[HMS]

I was upgrading the plastic hex discs on the Traxxas UDR to the aluminum Hot Racing hex discs (the weakest link in the drivetrain). I run my UDR on 6S and apparently the plastic hexes are prone to melting and breaking.

Three of four swapped out easily, but the left rear hex was “melted/frozen” to the axle. I tried pliers and the BBQ grill lighter, and it is stuck solid.

Any suggestions on how to get this hex off without ruining the axle? My hobby shop has an extra axle and rear axle assembly in stock, but I’d like to salvage this one if possible.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Greywolf74]

get some dykes and get tthe blades in behind the plastic melted bit and use the dykes to pry it off. Dont clamp down on to the axle just snug it up enough to use it as a pry tool if that makes sense.

Like this

 

[tntpoof]

You need a more directed heat source.like a heat gun or hair dryer

 

[HMS]

You need a more directed heat source.like a heat gun or hair dryer

Thank you!

What about a butane torch (cigar lighter)? My only concern about too much heat is that I’ll melt the plastic piece that bolts to the axle housing.

get some dykes and get tthe blades in behind the plastic melted bit and use the dykes to pry it off. Dont clamp down on to the axle just snug it up enough to use it as a pry tool if that makes sense.

Like this

View attachment 139680

Thank you! I’ll try the dykes first, but that sucker is stuck solid. I’m surprised plastic welded to metal that firmly.

Glad the other three didn’t have the issue.

 

[Greywolf74]

Thank you! I’ll try the dykes first, but that sucker is stuck solid. I’m surprised plastic welded to metal that firmly.

Glad the other three didn’t have the issue.

Its the only thing I can think of, Its how I remove rusted on bearings from axles and I also use that trick to remove pinions from a motor shaft if the grub screw strips out.

 

[tntpoof]

You can also try a micro gear puller..
Miniature Gear and Wheel Puller, 9/32 Inch - 9/16 Inch Capacity (micromark.com)
you can also use some banding stock and a vise with a copper hammer tap tap tap not drill driving

 

[WickedFog]

Heat the axle.

 

[HMS]

Thanks to all for the suggestions.

I ended up needing my fine tipped butane torch to melt the plastic and needle pliers to pull it off the axle.

Heat application was cautious as I didn’t want to melt the plastic piece to attach to the axle, nor overheat the bearing.

Note: it was a PITA. If you buy a UDR, recommend you swap the plastic hexes for aluminum or steel before running the truck (especially if you ar using 6s vs 4s).

 

[Greywolf74]

Thanks to all for the suggestions.

I ended up needing my fine tipped butane torch to melt the plastic and needle pliers to pull it off the axle.

Heat application was cautious as I didn’t want to melt the plastic piece to attach to the axle, nor overheat the bearing.

Note: it was a PITA. If you buy a UDR, recommend you swap the plastic hexes for aluminum or steel before running the truck (especially if you ar using 6s vs 4s).

Glad you got it off of there

 

[HMS]

Glad you got it off of there

@Greywolf74 thanks man! Having the pinpoint torch (to keep the heat away from the plastic axle piece & hub bearing—combined with the needle tips made all the difference. I appreciate all the ideas from you and the other folks.

Added the photo of after with the disc back on.

 

[Dan B.]

I was upgrading the plastic hex discs on the Traxxas UDR to the aluminum Hot Racing hex discs (the weakest link in the drivetrain). I run my UDR on 6S and apparently the plastic hexes are prone to melting and breaking.

UDR hexes melt? Wow, man, really? I hadn’t heard that.

 

[tntpoof]

could have used a jewelers saw