Making packs, why not use wire instead of bars?

[redhatman]

Hey, I think I'm going to make some packs after i get some cells for christmas and would like to get the stuff needed. I noticed there are battery bars like the deans probars. I realize that they conduct the electricty better, but why not just use some thicker wire, and maybe even a couple strands of wire for better flow instead of just one. Thanks
-Pat

 

[HeartBreak]

There are several reasons, but overall, the bars are easier to use, and they help lend strength to the finished pack. And, as you mentioned, they have a lower resistance. Not to mention, the profile on the bars are lower than wire.

What I do when I assemble my packs is, I make a saddle pack. It allows me to shift part of the weight one way, the other part the other way. Helps to spread out the packs' weight, so the truck/buggy is more balanced.

Overall, bars are a better solution.

 

[SMaxxin]

I noticed there are battery bars like the deans probars. I realize that they conduct the electricty better

You answered your own question. The wire will work but if you did one pack with wire and one pack with bars you would notice the difference in speed, off the line punch, and charging. Making your own packs is great if your building some high dollar packs...You will save money. But if your going cheap you might as well buy them prebuilt IMO.

 

[redhatman]

ok, so even if i did put a couple wires going from battery to battery, it would still be bad? thanks for the quick responses.
-Pat

 

[Lessen]

I would definately stick to bars Pat. Matter of fact, some places like www.batterystation.com (where I got my GP1100's) will put bars on the cells for you at no extra charge. That cuts your soldering work in half!

 

[Silent]

I just bought a couple pre-built IB3800s from MaxAmps for $39 each. Do it right and use the bars. Better pack integrety and strength, better amp flow, and also, I wonder if the packs would even fit in most cars with the thicker (12ga) wires on the sides. I know in my Losi jrx-s the tolerance is incredibly close, and will only fit with the trinity bars. You are right in building them side-by-side, so you can "tray" the pack for maintenance and storage.

 

[FastEddy]

What kind of packs are you going to be building?
Want size cells?
How many cells per pack?
Wires can be used successfully on a hump pack or RX pack if needed. Bars or tabs as mentioned above are the best way.

Other materials needed beyond solder are Shoe Goo to hold the cells together (Hot glue can be used but gets soft as the pack heats up) Shrink tubes (Sleeves) to go around the individual cells to keep them from shorting out, and a GOOD soldering iron

 

[redhatman]

eddy, I'm going to be building packs for my rc18mt with a mamba 6800.
2/3a size cells
going to make some 6, 7, or 8 cell packs

arent the bars bent though? wont they stick out? why do they bend them in the first place?

O ya, what bars would you suggest for making the 1/18 packs, wont the deans bars be to long? Thanks
-Pat

 

[FastEddy]

They make 2/3A bars. I saw some in links in another battery thread yesterday.

I use some fairly thin Nickel strips that I get from the LHS. IMO they are fine for 2/3A packs. They are flat, conduct well and are cheaper. I think I get 20 pcs per strip and it costs 4.00

 

[redhatman]

i think i might go with these http://cgi.ebay.com/TS-BATTERY-BARS...ryZ34063QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem any experience anyone? Thanks
-Pat

 

[Lessen]

those should work just fine... but, my question is...

why buy good bars to put on cheap batteries?

 

[FastEddy]

.70 each WAY TO EXPENSIVE! I see them for .30 all over the place.
Your going to have 15.00 into this pack by the time your done. Save some headache and order an un assembled pack from a builder if you want to do it yourself. They will provide everything you need for less.

 

[redhatman]

ok? so what should I use? those are the only brand of bars i found for 2/3a cells.

 

[Lessen]

ok? so what should I use?

Are you even READING this thread? If you want to make a good pack do this...

buy good batteries (GP's or the ones Eddy suggested)
use Nickle strips for bars (also like Eddy suggested)
use Deans connectors (like everybody suggests)

Done.

 

[redhatman]

ok guys, so basically when i solder, I apply a little bit to the bar and then a little to the cell. let harden... then place the 2 solders touching and place iron on top of bar to heat up and bond? Thanks
-Pat

 

[FastEddy]

Use a small screwdriver or needle nose to push in the end of the bar so when the solder melts the bar will make contact with the cell. DO NOT USE THE TIP OF THE IRON TO DO THIS. Remove the iron just when you feel the bar touch the cell. Hold the screw driver on the bar for several seconds after you remove the iron.

The solder joint should look smooth and rounded.

 

[Lessen]

ok guys, so basically when i solder, I apply a little bit to the bar and then a little to the cell. let harden... then place the 2 solders touching and place iron on top of bar to heat up and bond? Thanks
-Pat

yeah buddy! you got it! My only advice other than what Eddy just said is use as little solder as necessary, it doesn't take much

 

[redhatman]

well I bought deans probars 2.0 they are pretty big but I'm sure they will work.

 

[Lessen]

what type of batteries did you decide to go with?

 

[redhatman]

dont know, i told my mom to get me some for christmas. I think they are just some 2/3a cells that are 1100 mah.