Losi 8t rtr Need help....

[Rcjunky2002]

Ok so I just bought this new losi 8ight t rtr and I'm into my 8th tank and my servos are acting up..I'm bound to my spektrum dx4s. What's happening is, I trim out the steering/throttle and out of nowhere I have to retrim again, and the same goes for my throttle it's doing the same thing. Il be running with everything straight and then bam back to having to retrim.. could this be my radio, reviever, or factory stock servos.
Also when I bound this to my radio I didn't reset the model memory on the radio so could it be that it needs to be reset and rebound? Any help would be great! I just ordered a couple power hd servos and hope it fixes the issue..

 

[Greywolf74]

If its doing it with both the steering and the throttle channels then most likely Id say its the receiver

 

[Rcjunky2002]

If its doing it with both the steering and the throttle channels then most likely Id say its the receiver

I am gonna try another reciever

 

[Rcjunky2002]

After inspection I found the battery box and servo tray was loose and the steering servo was barely tight. 2 of the screws holding the servos were about to fall out. Rest radio and Rebound. Try again in the am.. but this throttle binding.. can anyone help?

 

[500 Mike]

RC..... I have the same truck and had similar problems with loose servo's right off the bat. Actually the two inboard screws on one of them (can't remember which one) were missing. Yes, checking everything on these RTR's is a must. Live and learn I guess!

From looking at your video, in addition to the loose servo, it seems like the shaft that the throttle linkage pivots on is lose too. Appears to be some side to side movement there. There is a nut on the bottom of that radio tray that will need tightened. You'll have to remove the 4 screws holding that tray to the chassis and pull it out to tighten. As far as the throttle binding, could it be the rubber piece making that squeaking noise when you apply the brake. That rubber piece, up under the rubber air filter inlet is compressing and squeaking.... possibly?? Trying to think of the simple stuff first. I just tried mine throttle/brake now and it makes a different sound, just like the servo is pulling hard. I can upload a video of mine for comparison if you'd like.

 

[Rcjunky2002]

RC..... I have the same truck and had similar problems with loose servo's right off the bat. Actually the two inboard screws on one of them (can't remember which one) were missing. Yes, checking everything on these RTR's is a must. Live and learn I guess!

From looking at your video, in addition to the loose servo, it seems like the shaft that the throttle linkage pivots on is lose too. Appears to be some side to side movement there. There is a nut on the bottom of that radio tray that will need tightened. You'll have to remove the 4 screws holding that tray to the chassis and pull it out to tighten. As far as the throttle binding, could it be the rubber piece making that squeaking noise when you apply the brake. That rubber piece, up under the rubber air filter inlet is compressing and squeaking.... possibly?? Trying to think of the simple stuff first. I just tried mine throttle/brake now and it makes a different sound, just like the servo is pulling hard. I can upload a video of mine for comparison if you'd like.

Yea that's what it's doing. When I pull.the break it kind of binds and the plastic piece that the linkage slides in seems tight. I thought maybe the angle of linkage but in.not sure.

 

[Rcjunky2002]

Seems to be working fine today. Maybe all.it needed was a fresh reset and rebind. I ran it quite a bit today with no issues

 

[Greywolf74]

Seems to be working fine today. Maybe all.it needed was a fresh reset and rebind. I ran it quite a bit today with no issues

Good deal!

 

[Rcjunky2002]

So I've been running the truck alot and I love it but have a few things in mind for changes. I need to get some stiffer springs or something cause this thing is too soft. I've tried to adjust the suspension seems I'm.all the way At its max for stiffness. Also I would.like to put thicker fluid in the center diff. Can anyone suggest good thick fluid to start with? I don't want to lock.it completely but would be nice to get a little more power to the ground

 

[Greywolf74]

Diff fluid and suspension is all kinda personal preference. Like tuning your engine. I would see what the manual calls for and then bump it up 2-3k at a time and see where you land. If you want to try and lock the diffs then some people will use 500k or even 1mil weight diff fluid. My buggies usually get around 3k-5k in front, 5K-7K center diff, and 2k-3k in rear then I adjust from there depending on how the car is driving.

THIS might help you figure out what you want to start with.

 

[500 Mike]

Agree completely with Greywolf's advice above. I believe your truck came standard with the following as far as diff fluid viscosity's. 3K - rear, 5K - front, 7K - center. When I upgraded all my diffs to TLR spec (with the 4 gears, vs. 2 in the RTR), I went with 5K rear, 7K front, 12.5K center. I really like this set up much better and plan to stick with it. I got this advice from the TLR setup sheets on their website. from the 4.0 truggy This setup up seems to be more for track racing. If you are bashing around the yard, etc., from what I read, some like to lock that center diff with the weights Greywolf mentions above. I have no personal experience with that however.

As far as shock oil and springs go, I also found them to be very soft. I bumped the shock oil to 80 wt front and rear, and bumped the spring rates to 4.0 front and 4.4 rear. These are with the stock plastic RTR shocks. I have since upgraded my shocks to TLR aluminum bodies and have gone even higher on spring rate to 5.5 front and 4.8 rear with 40 wt. front and 35 wt. rear.

All of these diff and shock oil viscosity's are based upon using TLR brand silicone oil. Other manufacturers viscosity's will vary from these, I am told, so it is best to pick and brand and stick with it if at all possible.

The link Greywolf provided above on diff setup is GREAT info!! Thanks, GW.

I hope this helps you, RC. I'm sure you'll want to mess around with all these to see what works best for you. I hope you find a good setup for your truck and terrain.

 

[Rcjunky2002]

Agree completely with Greywolf's advice above. I believe your truck came standard with the following as far as diff fluid viscosity's. 3K - rear, 5K - front, 7K - center. When I upgraded all my diffs to TLR spec (with the 4 gears, vs. 2 in the RTR), I went with 5K rear, 7K front, 12.5K center. I really like this set up much better and plan to stick with it. I got this advice from the TLR setup sheets on their website. from the 4.0 truggy This setup up seems to be more for track racing. If you are bashing around the yard, etc., from what I read, some like to lock that center diff with the weights Greywolf mentions above. I have no personal experience with that however.

As far as shock oil and springs go, I also found them to be very soft. I bumped the shock oil to 80 wt front and rear, and bumped the spring rates to 4.0 front and 4.4 rear. These are with the stock plastic RTR shocks. I have since upgraded my shocks to TLR aluminum bodies and have gone even higher on spring rate to 5.5 front and 4.8 rear with 40 wt. front and 35 wt. rear.

All of these diff and shock oil viscosity's are based upon using TLR brand silicone oil. Other manufacturers viscosity's will vary from these, I am told, so it is best to pick and brand and stick with it if at all possible.

The link Greywolf provided above on diff setup is GREAT info!! Thanks, GW.

I hope this helps you, RC. I'm sure you'll want to mess around with all these to see what works best for you. I hope you find a good setup for your truck and terrain.

Diff fluid and suspension is all kinda personal preference. Like tuning your engine. I would see what the manual calls for and then bump it up 2-3k at a time and see where you land. If you want to try and lock the diffs then some people will use 500k or even 1mil weight diff fluid. My buggies usually get around 3k-5k in front, 5K-7K center diff, and 2k-3k in rear then I adjust from there depending on how the car is driving.

THIS might help you figure out what you want to start with.

Awesome advice GW thanks I did take some time to read through it and have write down some stuff to try. I have locked center diffs before on truggies and I did like it but I wanted to keep this one as close to factory but it needs a bit of changes for my liking.

Agree completely with Greywolf's advice above. I believe your truck came standard with the following as far as diff fluid viscosity's. 3K - rear, 5K - front, 7K - center. When I upgraded all my diffs to TLR spec (with the 4 gears, vs. 2 in the RTR), I went with 5K rear, 7K front, 12.5K center. I really like this set up much better and plan to stick with it. I got this advice from the TLR setup sheets on their website. from the 4.0 truggy This setup up seems to be more for track racing. If you are bashing around the yard, etc., from what I read, some like to lock that center diff with the weights Greywolf mentions above. I have no personal experience with that however.

As far as shock oil and springs go, I also found them to be very soft. I bumped the shock oil to 80 wt front and rear, and bumped the spring rates to 4.0 front and 4.4 rear. These are with the stock plastic RTR shocks. I have since upgraded my shocks to TLR aluminum bodies and have gone even higher on spring rate to 5.5 front and 4.8 rear with 40 wt. front and 35 wt. rear.

All of these diff and shock oil viscosity's are based upon using TLR brand silicone oil. Other manufacturers viscosity's will vary from these, I am told, so it is best to pick and brand and stick with it if at all possible.

The link Greywolf provided above on diff setup is GREAT info!! Thanks, GW.

I hope this helps you, RC. I'm sure you'll want to mess around with all these to see what works best for you. I hope you find a good setup for your truck and terrain.

Mike I will.be getting a hold of you! Thanks for your help

 

[Rcjunky2002]

Added a few things or changed a few things today..
Power hd r20 throttle servo
Power hd b4 steering servo
Pullstart delete
Can't wait to try it
Looking for battery suggestions for the starter box. It uses tamiya plugs and I'd like to get lipos for it if I could but not sure where to start

 

[Greywolf74]

Hobbyking.com has the ability to filter the lipos by dimensions so measure how much room you have in your battery try and look for a 2S lipo that fits or if you want a bigger battery you could use some velcro and mount it somewhere to the inside of the tub or where ever you can make it fit. You'll need to change out that Tamiya connector though.

 

[500 Mike]

From Rcjunky2002.....
Added a few things or changed a few things today..
Power hd r20 throttle servo
Power hd b4 steering servo
Pullstart delete
Can't wait to try it
Looking for battery suggestions for the starter box. It uses tamiya plugs and I'd like to get lipos for it if I could but not sure where to start



I am curious how the starter box conversion worked out and if you are happy with how its working.

Also, are you pleased with the servo upgrades?

 

[cbaker65]

From Rcjunky2002.....
Added a few things or changed a few things today..
Power hd r20 throttle servo
Power hd b4 steering servo
Pullstart delete
Can't wait to try it
Looking for battery suggestions for the starter box. It uses tamiya plugs and I'd like to get lipos for it if I could but not sure where to start



I am curious how the starter box conversion worked out and if you are happy with how its working.

Also, are you pleased with the servo upgrades?

A starter box is pretty easy to work with ,yea you have to tote an extra bulky object ,but
is well worth it ,rather than being off somewhere an a pull starter breaking leaving you
with out a run out in the field!
Starter boxes are universal an the wheel can be changed in relations to your buggy very
easy to do an line up to your flywheel as the screw mounts of the starter mechanism is
slotted ,the change is very simple an easy ,I got mine working in a matter of minutes!..

 

[500 Mike]

Thanks for the input. I have a stater box (Protek Sure Start w/ 2 ea 775 motors in it, 4 cell Lipo powering it)…. but it does not seem to have enough power to start my .28 Losi. It gets near the top of the stroke and won’t get it past TDC. Starter wheel starts getting chewed up and things go nowhere from there. I thought I had everything lined up correctly but maybe not. I had to shim up the wheel in the box to make decent contact with the clutch bell. I have not installed the engine lowering mounts recommended for that box so that is my next move. I thought I had the wheel raised enough but maybe not. My battery is only a 2100 mh 4 cell so maybe that’s the problem??? Any input is welcome.

 

[cbaker65]

Thanks for the input. I have a stater box (Protek Sure Start w/ 2 ea 775 motors in it, 4 cell Lipo powering it)…. but it does not seem to have enough power to start my .28 Losi. It gets near the top of the stroke and won’t get it past TDC. Starter wheel starts getting chewed up and things go nowhere from there. I thought I had everything lined up correctly but maybe not. I had to shim up the wheel in the box to make decent contact with the clutch bell. I have not installed the engine lowering mounts recommended for that box so that is my next move. I thought I had the wheel raised enough but maybe not. My battery is only a 2100 mh 4 cell so maybe that’s the problem??? Any input is welcome.

I am using a Ryobi 18 volt drill battery!..LOL

Also if the chassy isnt slid over from the side to side just right ,will throw it off too ,yea ,you have
to line it up from forward to back ,but side to side as well ,that was where I had an issue until I
figured it out , the wheel was actually chewing itself up from the chassy ,so I slid the chassy over a tad
an it worked better ,so check out the side to side alignment too before setting the pegs for the chassy!..

 

[500 Mike]

Thanks! I’ll check the side to side alignment as well. I was more concerned with front to back up to this point.

 

[cbaker65]

Thanks! I’ll check the side to side alignment as well. I was more concerned with front to back up to this point.

Yea ,that was what messed me up at first ,an thought to myself WTF ,then got to looking ,an the
wheel was rubbing the chassy ,so figured it has to be lined up from side to side so the wheel will
hit more of the center of the flywheel an not rub the edge of the slot in the chassy!..