Looking for a part, 3mm ID x 5MM OD x 5MM+ long flange bushing

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olds97_lss

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I can't believe these are that hard to find. I have hot racing hubs on my stampede and hot racing steering bits on my stampede. They use 3x5mm bushings that I can't find for the life of me. I lost one today and made my own shoulder bolt out of aluminum... which isn't great, would rather it had been brass. Regardless what I do though, it won't be as smooth as it should be as the outside edge of the bushing is what rubs on the part for pivoting. Kind of like the king pin bushings on 1/8th buggies and other misc rc's. However, all of those are either larger ID or smaller OD or both. Well, the ones I found.

The old OFNA clutch bell shim kit had them, but that doesn't exist anymore either.

Anyway, thought I'd throw a feeler out in case anyone else has found a source for such bushings.

They are the bushings that come with these:
HRASLF1901-2T.jpg



These might work if I drill out the threaded and hex part:
Mugen MUGC0801H https://www.rcplanet.com/rc-parts/r-c-car-truck-parts/mugen-steering-rack-bushings-mugc0801h/

Or at least run a tap from the bottom through the hex part as I need the screw to go in from the flange end.

Nothing like scrolling through pages and pages of stuff...
 
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Have you tried a local hardware or Home Depot? I've often been amazed what I've found there when I'm looking for something made of Unobtainium.
 
Yeah, they don't have anything small enough.

I found some 2mm thick M3 aluminum spacers that are 6mm or 7mm OD I got from rcjuice a while back. Just seemed like something that would come in useful for spacing something out. I also had some 1mm M3 spacers of the same. I stacked up 2 of the 2mm's and one of the 1mm's on a screw with a nut holding them stationary, put them in my drill and hit them with my dremel, then mild emery, then really mild emery board to polish the surface up the best I could. Poor mans lathe. I threw a washer on to capture it since I didn't have a flange and it fits pretty good. I'm guessing they used brass because it's more likely to wear than the alloy part it rubs against. So now I have aluminum against aluminum. I put some wax based lube in the pivot (did that before as well) and it moves freely without slop or binding.

Just odd that you can't find bushings like that. All the ones I found were for king pins like that, but were either larger ID, OD or smaller OD. None of which were more than 1mm thick and I'm assuming they are steel with the intension of the bushing being tight and the steel surface making contact with a plastic c-hub. I think I did find some for an ackerman bar that was the right OD/ID, but they were too short. The only thing I've ever seen as that dimension were the CB extensions in the OFNA shim kit. Which I have 2 of in my parts, but they are only 3mm long, which is too short. 4mm puts me almost flush, 5mm gives me a hair gap when tightened down.
 
I found those too, but I think the "wear material" is on the inside surface, not the outside. Also, they have a split/seam, not sure what that would do, if anything. I may order some just to try/see how they do. Can't be any worse than the ones I made. lol! $8 for 10 of them is likely worth it to have something that I don't have to fuss with. Just install, put a washer on to retain. I think 5mm is how long I need. If not, I do have some 3x4mm shims.
 
I found those too, but I think the "wear material" is on the inside surface, not the outside. Also, they have a split/seam, not sure what that would do, if anything. I may order some just to try/see how they do. Can't be any worse than the ones I made. lol! $8 for 10 of them is likely worth it to have something that I don't have to fuss with. Just install, put a washer on to retain. I think 5mm is how long I need. If not, I do have some 3x4mm shims.
Yeah I figure at that price and quantity they are nearly disposable.... although I bet they will last pretty good.
 
Would be nice if there was an aftermarket c-hub that was 6mm, then you could use a 3x6mm bearing. Don't know why they don't have that for king pins on trucks that use them anyway. Removes slop and potential for slop. If I had proper tooling, I'd bore them out and do that.
 
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