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Build Thread Let's get nerdy - Kit Rally Car (PTG-2R)

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I'm not sure they're made any longer, I bought several at close out prices awhile back. The other two came with a 3000kv motor, which I used in my two 2WD Traxxas models. All came with EC3 power connectors.
You're right. Yea, they don't make them any longer. Probably have to go with a Spectrum or hobbywing or something. :)
 
You're right. Yea, they don't make them any longer. Probably have to go with a Spectrum or hobbywing or something. :)
The Hobbywing would likely give you more program options. I have several from both brands and they have both worked well for me.
 
Subaru WRX body ☑️
DeLorean body ☑️
My rally car is already gaining body options ☺️
1000015098.webp
 
I blocked out a couple hours today to work on the rally car. Today's tasks were to get the front gear box and steering assembly together. Everything went together extremely well. As I build I continue to be impressed with this kit.

My only snag currently is installing the inner bearing into the steering block (see below).

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Drive gear and out drive shaft assembled

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Shock tower attached to gear box

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Front suspension arms

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Differential and out drive in front gear assembly

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All together now!

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Is there a specific tool that can make this easier or a way I can install with minimal cursing? 😄
I don't want to damage the bearing (obvs) trying to get it seated correctly.
 
I blocked out a couple hours today to work on the rally car. Today's tasks were to get the front gear box and steering assembly together. Everything went together extremely well. As I build I continue to be impressed with this kit.

My only snag currently is installing the inner bearing into the steering block (see below).

View attachment 229043View attachment 229044
Drive gear and out drive shaft assembled

View attachment 229045
Shock tower attached to gear box

View attachment 229046
Front suspension arms

View attachment 229047
Differential and out drive in front gear assembly

View attachment 229048
All together now!

View attachment 229049

View attachment 229050
Is there a specific tool that can make this easier or a way I can install with minimal cursing? 😄
I don't want to damage the bearing (obvs) trying to get it seated correctly.
You just have to make sure the bearing is going in straight. One thing that can help is put the axle shaft through the bearing. Put the inner bearing on the axle, insert the axle into the spindle, then slide the outer bearing on. Try squeezing both bearings in. This will keep the bearings from going in crooked and getting in a bind.

As for your diff, I see you used white lithium grease. In the future, I would not use that as white lithium is petroleum based and will melt into the plastic over time. Not really enough to hurt anything in the short term, but if you run it for awhile with that in there you will likely find the grease has turned blackdue to liquifying the plastic slightly. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease. It doesn't harm plastics.
 
You just have to make sure the bearing is going in straight. One thing that can help is put the axle shaft through the bearing. Put the inner bearing on the axle, insert the axle into the spindle, then slide the outer bearing on. Try squeezing both bearings in. This will keep the bearings from going in crooked and getting in a bind.

As for your diff, I see you used white lithium grease. In the future, I would not use that as white lithium is petroleum based and will melt into the plastic over time. Not really enough to hurt anything in the short term, but if you run it for awhile with that in there you will likely find the grease has turned blackdue to liquifying the plastic slightly. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease. It doesn't harm plastics.
Sounds good. I was trying that, putting the inner bearing on the axle and using pressure to get it seated, but I wasn't very successful. The outer bearing is installed. Just having issues with the inner one.

Good tip on the grease. I've got some synthetic oil in the garage, I'll wipe of the white grease and switch to that, great tip!
 
You just have to make sure the bearing is going in straight. One thing that can help is put the axle shaft through the bearing. Put the inner bearing on the axle, insert the axle into the spindle, then slide the outer bearing on. Try squeezing both bearings in. This will keep the bearings from going in crooked and getting in a bind.

As for your diff, I see you used white lithium grease. In the future, I would not use that as white lithium is petroleum based and will melt into the plastic over time. Not really enough to hurt anything in the short term, but if you run it for awhile with that in there you will likely find the grease has turned blackdue to liquifying the plastic slightly. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease. It doesn't harm plastics.
I'm gonna add, something like I linked. The smaller ones are great for shocks and the larger one use a grease gun to fill with grease in the syringe for cleaner greasing.
https://www.amazon.com/Syringes-Bot...99075&sprefix=assorted+syringe,aps,149&sr=8-5
 
Sounds good. I was trying that, putting the inner bearing on the axle and using pressure to get it seated, but I wasn't very successful. The outer bearing is installed. Just having issues with the inner one.

Good tip on the grease. I've got some synthetic oil in the garage, I'll wipe of the white grease and switch to that, great tip!
Not oil. You want grease. The Mobil 1 is a red grease.

What happens quite often on spindles in the molding process is once they come out of the mold the design causes them to deform slightly into an oval, typically on the inner bearing journal. If you can't get it, you can try putting the spindle in some really hot water, but you'll have to remove the outer bearing first.

Also, having the outer bearing in there first may be causing the inside bearing journal to be smaller. I always try to get the inner bearing in first. It is always the tighter one. Use something like the back end of a drill bit or round punch and press that outer bearing back out and try again.
 
Not oil. You want grease. The Mobil 1 is a red grease.

What happens quite often on spindles in the molding process is once they come out of the mold the design causes them to deform slightly into an oval, typically on the inner bearing journal. If you can't get it, you can try putting the spindle in some really hot water, but you'll have to remove the outer bearing first.

Also, having the outer bearing in there first may be causing the inside bearing journal to be smaller. I always try to get the inner bearing in first. It is always the tighter one. Use something like the back end of a drill bit or round punch and press that outer bearing back out and try again.
Oh yeah, grease. Yep. I'll get that no problem. I was getting crosswise in my thinking 😜. I got the bearing in. I had an epiphany and remembered I usually use a hex socket to push them in evenly, I find the biggest one that'll just put pressure on the outer ring of the bearing. It works beautifully. Axles installed!
 
Oh yeah, grease. Yep. I'll get that no problem. I was getting crosswise in my thinking 😜. I got the bearing in. I had an epiphany and remembered I usually use a hex socket to push them in evenly, I find the biggest one that'll just put pressure on the outer ring of the bearing. It works beautifully. Axles installed!
Yeah, I was going to suggest a socket as well if the above didn't work out. And smart thinking, as the outer race is where ya wanna drive it in 😉
 
Front assembly finished! Now to go pickup the kid 😄 View attachment 229071View attachment 229072
Nicely done. One thing though... those upper links (camber links) have that groove in there. You generally want those on the same side of the car, typically the left. That way - to lengthen the link, no matter which side you are adjusting, you would always pull the wrench towards the rear of the car.
 
Nicely done. One thing though... those upper links (camber links) have that groove in there. You generally want those on the same side of the car, typically the left. That way - to lengthen the link, no matter which side you are adjusting, you would always pull the wrench towards the rear of the car.
Oh okay. I just installed them per the diagram. I can easily swap sides, so they're more easily adjusted.
1000015144.webp
 
I blocked out a couple hours today to work on the rally car. Today's tasks were to get the front gear box and steering assembly together. Everything went together extremely well. As I build I continue to be impressed with this kit.

My only snag currently is installing the inner bearing into the steering block (see below).

View attachment 229043View attachment 229044
Drive gear and out drive shaft assembled

View attachment 229045
Shock tower attached to gear box

View attachment 229046
Front suspension arms

View attachment 229047
Differential and out drive in front gear assembly

View attachment 229048
All together now!

View attachment 229049

View attachment 229050
Is there a specific tool that can make this easier or a way I can install with minimal cursing? 😄
I don't want to damage the bearing (obvs) trying to get it seated correctly.
I've done a ton of bearing type stuff for mountain bike suspension. But that's a lot bigger.

Assuming that has an entry and exit hole, I can't really tell. But it should

A trick or two we do is to put together a simple "vise". Using a nut, bolt and washers. The goal is to squeeze in the bearing by turning the nut and bolt. The washers help (maybe even a bushing too, depending) to help ensure alignment. And to not damage anything. Like the bearing. Works like magic. Trick is getting the right size stuff. Lube too, like the guys already said.

The other is some kind of c-clamp. But don't know if they make anything that small and would fit in that recessed area. Hence the bolt/nut/washer trick. Totally custom.

Looks great. What's the body looking like?
 
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